Beyond the Beach: Discovering Koh Chang from The Retreat

Some destinations reveal themselves slowly. Koh Chang is one of them, roving correspondent Roderick Eime reports.

At first glance, Thailand's second-largest island seems to offer exactly what visitors expect: palm-fringed beaches, warm seas and spectacular sunsets. 

Spend a little longer here, however, and a different side emerges. Dense rainforest blankets the mountains, mangrove forests line sheltered waterways and small fishing communities continue traditions that predate tourism by generations.

The Retreat Koh Chang proved an ideal base from which to discover both sides of the island.

Arriving at the family-owned resort, the first impression is one of space and tranquillity. 

Water features, tropical gardens and low-rise buildings constructed from natural materials create a sense of harmony with the surrounding landscape. Rather than dominating its environment, the resort seems to blend seamlessly into it.

The guest experience reflects this philosophy. Service is polished without being intrusive, with staff displaying the genuine warmth for which Thai hospitality is famous. Conversations happen naturally, recommendations feel personal, and there is an easy rhythm to daily life around the property.

While the pools and waterfront setting make relaxation tempting, Koh Chang rewards exploration.

One morning begins with a journey through a network of mangrove waterways aboard a traditional wooden boat. Gliding silently beneath overhanging branches, the island feels worlds away from Thailand's busier tourist centres. 

Birdlife darts among the roots while local fishermen tend their boats along the banks. It's a reminder that nature remains central to life here.

Back on land, the island's rainforest reveals another dimension. Koh Chang is home to one of Thailand's richest botanical environments, with more than a thousand recorded plant species thriving in the island's exceptionally wet climate. Waterfalls tumble from forested hillsides and hiking trails offer opportunities to experience an ecosystem that has remained remarkably intact.

The resort encourages guests to engage with these natural assets through curated excursions, wellness experiences and cultural encounters. Island-hopping adventures, paddle boarding, kayaking and cooking experiences provide alternatives to the traditional fly-and-flop beach holiday.

Dining also reflects a strong sense of place. Fresh seafood sourced from nearby communities features prominently, while locally inspired flavours sit comfortably alongside contemporary presentation. Sunset dinners beside the water quickly become a highlight.

What makes The Retreat Koh Chang memorable is not simply the quality of the accommodation or the beauty of its setting. Rather, it is the way the property connects guests with the island itself.

In an era when many tropical resorts could be located just about anywhere, The Retreat succeeds because it feels unmistakably part of Koh Chang. 

And Koh Chang, in turn, remains one of Thailand's most rewarding islands for travellers willing to venture beyond the beach.

More info https://theretreatkohchang.com/

Room rates begin at around $300 a night including breakfast. 

British Airways masters the art of weasel words

British Airways appears to have mastered the art of weasel words.

The British flag carrier has always stood out from its rivals by offering two or three hot breakfast options on its Club Europe business class flights to leading European capitals.

No more.

And the removal of hot breakfasts is not a cutback, or a reduction. Instead, BA describes it as a "simplification".

As of January 7, BA will be "modifying" the breakfast service on many of its short flights within Europe for those lucky enough to be business class.

The airline currently offers two or three hot options but will instead simply have one option on select routes -a fruit plate, yogurt, and a heated pastry.

This policy will apply on flights to and from Amsterdam (AMS), Belfast (BHD), Brussels (BRU), Dublin (DUB), Jersey (JER), Manchester (MAN), Newcastle (NCL), and Paris (CDG). All other routes will continue to receive a full hot breakfast. For now.

British Airways says it is making this change in order for cabin crew to have “more time in the cabin with customers".

Which is, of course, BS. The only interaction most passengers want with crew is to get breakfast.

To be fair, European rivals (like Air France, KLM, Lufthansa, SWISS, etc do not serve hot breakfasts on short flights. But BA appears to be reducing one of its points of difference to save money.

Cost cutting pure and simple despite BA claiming its Club Europe service is "feature packed" and a "perfect combination of efficiency, convenience and comfort". 

Air Canada gets it wrong. Again.

Air Canada is a classic case of a business without a contingency plan.

It consistently alienates its customers and when the blowback becomes fierce it then changes tack.

It was chaotic during Covid with lost bags and cancelled flights the norm. It was sadly under-prepared and passengers paid the price.

And now, after rorting its staff so they went on a five-day strike, Air Canada is again playing catch-up after leaving passengers stranded and refusing to pay their food and hotel costs.

Oops! But finally the airline realised the publicity it was getting was dire.

Suddenly Air Canada has announced “enhanced compensation” after several days of leaving thousands of travellers broke and anxious

The comedy capers airline will now cover ‘reasonable’ hotel costs, meals, ground transport and other related expenses for travellers who had cancelled or heavily delayed flights in the past week, news hub Travel Mole reported.

“We deeply apologise to all customers whose travel plans were disrupted, and we’re committed to making things right for all customers — particularly those who were stranded during their trip,” Air Canada EVP Mark Nasr said.

“Earlier this week, we put in place a special commitment to reimburse out-of-pocket transportation costs, including on other airlines, rail, ground or ferries. Today, we are taking another step forward to make things right.”

Air Canada said compensation claims must include receipts for travel and hotel expenses and can be submitted online.

About 500,000 passengers had their flight plans upended due to the strike which started last weekend.

British Airways ranked bottom of the class

It is the news no airline wants to hear: that it has been named worst in the world. 

I haven't flown British Airways for a very long time. Not since some uniformed haridan shouted "just wait!" at me when I was foolish enough to request a snack. 

And apparently things have not improved. 

British Airways has dropped to the bottom of consumer group Which?’s annual satisfaction survey for the first time, alongside the appalling Air Canada.

Which? asked nearly 8,000 UK travellers across more than 9,000 flights to rank airlines based on punctuality, customer service, seat comfort, food and value for money. 

It then merged those findings with delays and cancellation data from the Civil Aviation Authority to compile its final list.

So British Airways, which once called itself the ‘world’s favourite airline’ is hated by its own customers. 

The airline got an overall customer rating of 62% for long-haul flights. It only mustered up two out of five stars in several categories, including seat comfort, food and drink and value for money. 

But Which? says the problem isn’t necessarily that BA has got worse (it actually improved on its 2018 score of 50%), but that other airlines have got better.

Though BA got an even lower score of 57% in Which?’s short-haul ranking, it didn’t come dead last. It scored higher than Lufthansa, Wizz Air and Ryanair (which earned just one star for seat comfort and food and drink).

Here's the long-haul list, with Australia's Qantas ranking fourth: 

Singapore Airlines, Etihad Airways, Emirates, Qantas, Virgin Atlantic, Air France, Delta Airlines, KLM
United Airlines, Qatar Airways, Lufthansa, Turkish Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Tui Airways, Aer Lingus
American Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Air Canada/ British Airways. 

Rory Boland, editor of Which? Travel, said: “British Airways' poor performance in our survey shows how far it has fallen from the days when it was seen as setting the standards others should aspire to.

“There’s a clear disparity between airlines at the top and at the bottom of the rankings. The top performers show it is possible to give passengers good service at a time when delays, cancellations and terrible customer service have become almost the norm.

“Some airlines seem to think they can get away with treating their customers badly, knowing they are unlikely to face consequences in a sector with weak regulations.” 

British Airways said the research was "entirely at odds with comments from the hundreds of thousands of customers" who travel on their airline. Well they would, wouldn't they?

For short-haul airlines in Europe, Jet2 took first place for the fourth consecutive year.

Seafood on the waterfront in Sydney without busting your budget

Nothing says "Sydney" and "summer" like kicking back and eating fresh seafood while sipping cold wine on the waterfront. 

There is no shortage of seafood eateries in Sydney, but one that combines a great location with good food is love.fish, a 175-seater that is part of the Streets of Barangaroo precinct and located directly opposite the Barangaroo ferry wharf. 

If you love people watching this is your spot: from rollerbladers to joggers, cyclists to posers, the chronically under-dressed to commuters. All the world's a stage. 

And given the huge rents the love.fish team must pay for their prime spot, their prices are extremely reasonable. Think locally-sourced oysters, raw fish, whole fish, platters, and crustaceans.

We tried the $69 per person "Feed Me" menu for lunch - and it offered an impressive range of seafood dishes that can be matched matched to wines for another $29 per person. You still get out for under $100 a head, which seems very fair to me. There is a two-person minimum for this offering. 

The menu starts with tuna crudo (on betel leaf with chilli and lime, above) and a salt and pepper squid from Tasmania. Both hit the spot but the artisan focaccia was sadly soggy and tasteless. These dishes were matched with a bright 2024 Nick O'Leary Riesling from the Canberra region. 

Next up: a grilled Daintree barramundi fillet with asparagus, peach and salsa verde (above) and a very well-composed blue swimmer crab risotto with fennel and zucchini blossoms (below). This duo was accompanied by a well-matched Briar Ridge chardonnay from the Hunter Valley. 

To finish: toasted coconut and mango crumble with a coconut sorbet. Impressively summery and paired with a chilled Pfeiffer NV Topaque fortified.

Love.fish just gets it right - but they've got some experience. The business was founded 15 years ago with a policy of delivering sustainable and all-Australian casual seafood experiences.

The a la carte menu ranges from sashimi and scallops to a classic old-school king prawn cocktail, with mains like battered fish and chips. to a seafood platter for two for $195.

For those needing some greens there is a range of vegetable and salad sides. 

From small beginnings in Rozelle, this remains a family business; operated by Michael Milkovic and Michelle Grand-Milkovic, with an offering of affordable, sustainable seafood and casual but attentive hospitality.  

 See https://www.lovefish.com.au/    

# The writer was hosted by love.fish 

The perfect Sydney hotel location if you are on a budget

 

There are dozens of top-notch Sydney hotels with grand rooms and even grander views, where you'll pay handsomely for the privilege of staying a night or two. 

But if you simply want somewhere to sleep then it  can be a waste of money to splash out on ultra-luxe digs that you will only use to rest your head. 

If, like me, you'd rather spend your money on wining and dining, but want to be in a central spot then the economy ibis Barangaroo has three key elements on its side: location, location, location. 

You are within 100 metres of the lively Barangaroo precinct with its wide array of restaurants and bars. Popular King Street wharf is similar distance away in the opposite direction. 

You can catch ferries from Barangaroo Wharf, or walk a couple of blocks to Wynyard Station for trains, to George St to the light rail or Barangaroo for the new Metro line. 

A couple of the compact rooms at ibis Barangaroo even have water views. 

The hotel is owned by hospitality mogul Dr Jerry Schwartz, who also owns hotels including the Sofitel Darling Harbour - so the staff are top-notch. Zane, who checked us in, was charming and full of local knowledge. 

The rooms, as is the case with most ibis properties, are compact but are clean and have everything you'd need for a few nights: a bathroom with plenty of hot water, good fast wifi, blinds to keep the room dark, a comfortable bed, flat-screen TV, small fridge, tea and coffee facilities, hair dryers and effective air con. 

The public areas include a funky lounge (below) with free chilled still and sparkling water, and Lot 51, a café serving breakfasts, then daytime toasties, pizzas, snacks, and hot and cold drinks - including beers from Sydney Brewery, which is also owned by Schwartz.

There are 91 guest rooms in total - and reception is manned 24 hours a day, as you'd expect in an Accor property.

Staff are happy to store your bags pre- or post check-in and the property is surprisingly quiet given its location.

For details see https://all.accor.com/hotel/6412/index.en.shtml. Prices are fluid depending on the season, but it is worth making a note of.

# The writer was hosted by ibis Barangaroo

Hotel kicks out disabled woman who wanted to pay £1.20 charge in cash

Is hospitality dead? 

It would seem so given the way a disabled person with memory issues was allegedly treated by a hotel in Manchester, England, where a standard double room costs £52.00 per night. 

Margaret Jones, 63, arrived in the city on Thursday evening for an overnight stay at the Britannia Hotel on Portland Street. She had booked and paid in advance and arrived at the hotel around 9pm. 

At the hotel check-in, she said, she was informed by reception staff that she would be required to pay a recently introduced £1.20 ‘tourist tax’ before she would be allowed to access her room, the Manchester Evening News reported.

The hotel refused to accept cash for the payment when she handed over £1.50 in coins.

The woman said that due to her memory issues she primarily pays for things in cash as she often forgets her card PIN numbers, which can lead to severe panic attacks. 

She was told she must pay the City Visitor Charge levy by card. 

“I don’t like using my card, normally I carry cash all the time,” Margaret explained to the newspaper. 

“I’m reluctant to use my cards because I don’t remember my PIN numbers. I know where I stand with cash, my cards all look the same so I often forget which card I’m using.

“I gave them £1.50 in cash and they refused it. They told me they don’t take cash, and I explained about my mental impairment, but they didn’t seem to want to listen.”

Margaret, who uses a mobility walker, alleged she was then told by staff that she would need to leave the hotel if she couldn’t pay the levy by card. 

“I tried to use one of my cards and it wanted my PIN number,” she said.

“They told me that I couldn’t have my room and I couldn’t stay there. They actually turned me away from the building - I was pretty much left stranded in the freezing cold. I didn’t know what to do - I was shaking and crying.”

Margaret says she then stood outside the hotel for around 15 minutes, before contacting a friend, who offered to pay the levy via the internet or over the phone. She said this offer was also refused by staff.

“I’ve offered cash, payment by phone or the internet, and they wouldn’t accept any of it. They didn’t seem to care.”

Margaret said she eventually found a card that she could use for a tap payment without requiring a PIN and she was able to pay the fee and granted access to her booking for the night. But she said the experience has left her feeling anxious and embarrassed.

“It’s ludicrous,” she said. “I thought cash was legal tender. I told them I was at another Britannia hotel a few months ago and had no issues and they just said ‘well, different hotels have different rules’. Maybe I’m being too old-fashioned, but surely there’s a way of collecting the fee in cash or something? Not everybody has cards.

“I don’t mind paying the £1.20 city fee but when I've already paid for a room and to be told I can’t stay there and turned away in the cold, I think there’s something seriously wrong with that."

The newspaper approached both Britannia Hotels and Manchester Accommodation BID for comment. They were apparently too embarrassed to respond.

I think they might have underestimated the damage to both the hotel brand - remember the name Britannia Hotels - and to the cold, bleak city of Manchester. 

And this is not the only Manchester hotel at the centre of a "hospitality" furore. 

The Maldron hotel chain has been accused of trying to cash in on Oasis shows next year by cancelling bookings customers had made before the dates of the band's reunion tour had been announced.

Lily Stroud from Newcastle told the BBC she reserved rooms on two weekends at a Maldron Hotel in Manchester for July 2025 after speculation about the band's return.

But the hotel chain cancelled her bookings after the tour announcement due to a "technical error", with the same rooms now listed as unavailable.

A spokesman for Maldron Hotels said there was "an overbooking issue" at two of its locations and it was not an attempt to "resell rooms at inflated prices".

I'm sure everyone will believe them. 

Prices for some Manchester hotels for the weekends of the Oasis gigs are currently double those of the weeks before and afterwards.

Take your i-Pad and shove it up your QR code

Most restaurant guests still want a traditional, tech-free experience when dining out, a survey conducted by US culinary school Escoffier has revealed.

Almost two-thirds (64%) of US diners prefer dealing with a human being to robot waiters or ordering via a tablet.

Depending on the technology, however, and the demographics in question, some consumers may be open to new technology.

Some tech options have already become the preferred choice for a clear majority of customers, data from the National Restaurant Association (NRA) reveals.

65% of full-service (ahem!) restaurant customers would likely use a tablet at the table to pay their check; slightly fewer - 60% - said they would use it to place their order.

Diners were cooler on QR codes; while 59% said they would use a QR code to pull up a menu, fewer than half would use a QR code to pay their check (46%) or place an order (48%).

Escoffier’s analysis showed that, as with many tech-centred questions, there is a generational divide.

Whereas 64% of adults overall want to keep technology out of restaurants, for Millennials that figure falls to 47%.

Likewise, Millennials are also the most enthusiastic about the idea of food being prepared (45% in favour) and delivered (58% in favour) by automated systems/robots, whereas the adult population as a whole is less so (29% and 37% respectively).

If I go out to eat I want a “hospitality” experience. A tablet can’t answer questions. 

I won’t do QR codes. If you can’t bring me a menu I will choose to dine elsewhere.

But if you can’t afford to turn away customers in a super-competitive environment then good luck to you. 

Image: Aditya Mohan, Scop.io

The pitfalls of BYO: always ask first

BYO has been popular with Australian diners for decades. While it may be an alien concept in many other countries, in Australia many eateries offer the option.

BYO stands for “bring your own”, and it means that you can bring your own wine, usually, to a restaurant, whether that business is licensed to sell alcohol or not.

In the 1970s, many small restaurants were able to open without having to pay thousands of dollars for a liquor license. Today, many restaurants do hold a liquor license but still offer diners the choice between BYO and purchasing from the house wine list.

Some offer this option for free, others impose a charge still known as "corkage", even though over 90% of wines in Australia are sold under screw caps.

But corkage can be a source of controversy.

A corkage charge covers the cost of the restaurant's glasses, ice bucket and the assistance of the waiting staff. 

BYO is particularly popular with members of the wine industry, who get to bring expensive wines to dinner without paying a restaurant list mark-up, and with collectors, who can bring older wines from their cellar that would be unlikely to feature on wine lists.

The problem is that restaurants set their own corkage rates and there are no industry guidelines. It may vary from a charge per person, or per bottle. Anything from a nominal $1.50 per person to as high as $50 per bottle in a top-end establishment.

But if you don't check first there can be unpleasant surprise when the bill arrives, as Hunter Valley wine industry personality Leigh Dryden posted on LinkedIn this week.

Dryden works for Hunter wine producers Hart & Hunter, so is familiar with the industry norms.

"We all love a good BYO and we don't mind paying a fair corkage fee especially if we have some quality wine in our cellars," Dryden said.

"A mate of mine and his wife went to a local restaurant here in Newcastle over the weekend, its a reasonable standard, so-so wine list but it had BYO but here is the kicker. "At the time of booking he discussed about bringing his own wine, no worries from the venue, no mention of the corkage fee, upon arrival no mention by the wait staff concerning the corkage fee, paying the bill once again no mention about the corkage fee - the assumption was they may not have one, or choose not to enforce it.

"Sadly this was not the case , after arriving home my mate thought the bill was a little heavy given they had taken their own wine and had not had a big lash out the bill was very overweight.

"On the bill was a fee for $38, so next day he rang the owner of the venue and he was told the fee was for corkage, wooooo this is pretty hot given the average fee in Sydney is around $6 per person.

"After much discussion it was admitted that there had been a mistake and [the restaurant] would reduce the fee to $25."

So a lesson there. Always ask first.

"The fact that no one had made mention what the fee was at any stage is very unprofessional," Dryden says.

"The moral of the story: people are prepared to pay for fair value, they are not prepared to be ripped off, and, more importantly, not suitably communicated to concerning the corkage fee practices."

Image: Yoann Jezequel, Scop.io 

When hotels do their best to alienate their own guests

Hotels are supposed to be in the "hospitality" business. 

Their marketing will tell you what an important guest you are - and how much your custom is valued. 

The reality, however, is that some hotels - not all - see guests as cash cows to be milked as much as possible. 

A recent post on the Threads social media site underlined this. 

Here is the post: "Check in at my hotel today is at 1500, which is in 37 minutes' time. The room is cleaned, prepped and ready for me but I’ve been told I have to pay extra to check in now, so I’m currently sat in the lobby like a wally counting down the minutes. I genuinely can’t figure out the logical reason for this. Anyone know the answer?"

I have that answer. Greed. The hotel manager imposing that policy is an idiot. 

If a hotel room is ready ahead of time, there is absolutely no reason why a guest should not be given access. 

The paying customer will feel good, instead of being annoyed. Making her or him more likely to return or show brand loyalty. 

Can any hotel manager explain this peculiar intransigence? 

Image: Irma Calabrese, Scop.io

How to enjoy an authentic Bali experience on a budget

Finding a locally owned and operated place to stay can be one of the keys to an authentic - and affordable - stay in Bali.

If you want to avoid noisy bars and night clubs stay away from international chain hotels and destinations like Nusa Dua, Kuta and Canggu, and opt instead for a quieter resort area. Like Sanur.

Fellow travel writer Christine Retschlag recommended Bumi Ayu Bungalows to me for a recent two-night stay - and it proved a delightful choice, tucked away down a quiet laneway but just a short stroll to the main street, and a slightly longer walk to the beach.

There are several local eateries and massage options within five minutes of your accommodation, but there are hardly any annoying touts and the vibe is totally chilled.

 


Sit by the pool and order some satay sticks (above) and fresh juice and enjoy Bali as it used to be.

Bumi Ayu Bungalows has been operating for over 20 years and offers a variety of accommodation - from poolside villas to hotel rooms.

There's an excellent pool, with a jacuzzi, wifi, a library and on on-site eatery that serves excellent breakfasts (both tradtitional and western).

My bungalow was older style, but very comfortable with a large bed, air con, fridge, bathroom with amenities and a lovely deck with garden views. I paid around $50 a night - which is ridiculously good value.



The property is very well maintained, and the staff are charming. The front desk can arrange tours and transfers around the island. 

Within a five-minute stroll of the Bumi Ayu Bungalows are several warungs offering cheap eats - Lilla Waring was excellent - as well as a Japanese restaurant and steakhouse.

You can walk along the beach via a laneway from the Griya Santrian hotel.

So what, exactly, is Sanur like? 

As the coastal area closest to the capital, Denpasar, Sanur predates Kuta, Nusa Dua and Uluwatu as the oldest destination for beach tourism in Bali.

The waters of Sanur are protected by a string of offshore reefs, creating large, warm shallow, safe lagoons that are clear and excellent for swimming and water sports. 

Accommodation prices drop dramatically if you are willing to stay a few blocks away from the water.

Sanur has a quiet and relaxed feel to it and tends to appeal most to middle-aged and older groups. If you want to party you've definitely come to the wrong place.

Jalan Danau Tamblingan, the main street in Sanur, has a number of outlets for car, motorbike and bicycle rental - and also hosts a night market.

Sanur is a 20-minute taxi ride from the Ngurah Rai International Airport - unless it is raining - and around 30 minutes driving time from Kuta or Legian. Your taxi driver might not be familiar with it, so take a map with you. 

Bumi Ayu Bungalows designed in Balinese style and surrounded by lush tropical gardens tucked well back from the road. 

Search the internet for deals (the prices on the website are inflated) and see https://www.bumiayubungalows.com/ for property details.

Qantas flies Sydney-Denpasar with daily direct flights operated on an Airbus A330 aircraft, fares start from $414 one way. Melbourne-Denpasar direct flights operate five times per week using a Boeing 737 aircraft. Fares start from $415 one way. See qantas.com

When Qantas gets it right

Qantas has had a very bumpy ride in recent years but when the Australian flag carrier gets it right it remains a world-class airline. 

Most of my recent flights to Asia have been on budget carriers - where you pay extra for absolutely everything except for your seat. 

My weekend flight from Melbourne to Denpasar - paid for using frequent flyer points - was a very pleasant surprise. 

There was no queue at check-in. I got upgraded to the extra leg space of an exit row without asking and boarding was painless. 

Once onboard there was a pillow, a blanket and a bottle of water in my seat. And, as Qantas is a full service carrier, there was a choice of meals and free drinks. 

I opted for a tasty cheese and mushroom ravioli dish (above) over a chicken salad and spicy beef noodles. The small bottle of Rob Dolan cabernet merlot was quite acceptable.  

The info provided by the crew over the intercom was chatty and fun - as befitting a flight to a holiday destination.  

And we were actually ahead of schedule until a weather event meant couple of go arounds ordered by air traffic control.

A good flight and baggage (no cost) arrived promptly. A nice reminder of how good Qantas can be.

Here are the details:

Sydney-Denpasar, daily direct flights operated on an Airbus A330 aircraft, fares start from $414 one way.

Melbourne-Denpasar, direct flights five times per week operated on a Boeing 737 aircraft, fares start from $415 one way.

See qantas.com 

# The writer travelled with no assistance at all from Qantas.

Jamie Oliver under fire - and his chef doesn't think that's fair

There is nothing quite so amusing as a chef who angrily objects to poor reviews.

Jamie Oliver - yes, the bloke whose whole empire crashed four years ago with debts of £83 million and a reported 1,000 staff out of work - recently opened a new London eatery called Jamie Oliver Catherine Street.

Critics made a beeline for the restaurant as soon as it opened late last year - but chef Chris Shaill has said that those critics should have waited longer before paying a visit.

Shaill wailed that the restaurant still needed to “find its feet” and suggested that critics should have held fire for a while until everything had settled: 

“We’ve been improving since day one and we’re improving every single day," the Drinks Business reported.

So let's get this straight. The chef didn't have his team performing the way he wanted, but the restaurant opened anyway.

Were guests charged a reduced price while Shaill got things up to speed? Err no.

Were diners showered with extras while staff were being trained on the job? Err no.

Writing for the Evening Standard,  reviewer David Ellis gave the restaurant a two-star score and criticised the slow pace of service and called the seafood cocktail “ghoulish” summing the new opening up as “a musical with a star who just can’t sing”.

Tim Hayward in the Financial Times, who visited weeks after the opening was left "sadly flat" by his visit.

But Shaill was unmoved.

"We take [reviews] with a pinch of salt," he said. "We knew what was gonna be coming.

”Lots of people have their own idea of how things should be. As a new opening we got some things wrong. I think it’s the way we deal with it: we’re very humble and we’ll take any criticism on board and we want to be better - but there are plenty of very good reviews.”

So diners who were the victims of things the team "got wrong" were reimbursed? Err no.

Jamie's team - and their high-powered PR operatives - are maybe just a little too cocky for their own good. A little like....

Simple message: Don't open a restaurant until you are ready to offer diners a good experience. Particularly if you are already on the nose.  

Are sommeliers on the nose with wine drinkers?

A good sommelier is a gift from the heavens.

A warm welcome, an insider wine tip. Good somms can turn a good evening into a great night.

But it seems that the current generation of somms are not resonating with restaurants guests as their predecessors did.

Earlier this week, I posted a tongue-in-cheek piece about whether AI bots could replace flesh-and-blood wine operatives.

To my surprise, my social media feeds got a lot of anti-somm feedback. Particularly in Australia.

"How how will it [AI] maintain the wankerisms and condescending manner?" asked one wine industry insider.

From a very well travelled international journalist: "I suppose as long as the AI version doesn't look down at you and shake his or her head disdainfully, I'm OK with it!"

And more, this time from another wine industry pro.

"...try and sell you some jarringly dry, over-phenolic, cloudy, fruitless muck just because they're obsessed with natural wines and like to pretend several thousand years of winemaking evolution hasn't happened."

Ouch.

I, too, have been the victim of somms trying to convince me to drink "orange" wines despite my stated aversion to them.

Some for some looking in the mirror, maybe, for some somms. 

You are there to help the customer find a drink he or she will enjoy, not to act as an Alice Feiring-style evangelist for undrinkable drinks.

Image: Maksim Chernyshev, Scop.io.

Meet a big city hotel with a personal touch

A good experience at check-in is often a harbinger for a good hotel stay.

So it proved at the InterContinental in Sydney last week - a five-star hotel that has recently undergone a major refurb.

The InterCon is a blend of the old and the new; a modern hotel centred around the old NSW Treasury Building that is located a couple of blocks from the ferry quays and transport interchange at Circular Quay, and a short walk from the Opera House.

 


We arrived early looking to drop our bags prior to a ferry ride. Instead, extremely slick and impressive staff at reception (above) had us on our way to our room well before check-in time, and upgraded us to a room with impressive Sydney Harbour views.

All 509 guest rooms, including 28 suites, boast views of either Sydney Harbour Bridge, Sydney Opera House, the Royal Botanic Gardens or the city skyline.

 


The welcome letter in the room even had my name spelled correctly - which is usually only a 50% chance at best.

Throughout our stay staff were uniformly smiling, helpful and professional - very welcome and something of a rarity in today's hospitality environment.

The hotel has undergone a $120 million redevelopment in recent years, enhancing modern features while preserving original elements of the Treasury Building, which dates back to 1851.

Another heritage element is the oldest working lift in the southern hemisphere, opened around 1919. 

Recent additions include the impressive Pont Brasserie dining room (separate review coming soon) and the Bar Messenger underground dive bar.

While location is important, so is technology - and here you'll find fast and free in-room wifi, push button technology to control air con, open and close curtains etc.

Rooms feature something called a "cloud bed" (above), very comfortable and available in a range of sizes; luxe amenities and blackout curtains.

Breakfasts (including many dishes cooked to order) are served in The Conservatory on level one, while The Treasury on the ground floor is open from morning until late, serving light breakfasts, casual meals, beverages and high tea at weekends.

Aster on level 31 is a rooftop bar on the same level as the hotel swimming pool and fitness centre, while 24-hour room service is available. 

Impressive on all levels. A large hotel with a personal touch.

See sydney.intercontinental.com for more details and room rates.  

# The writer was a guest of the hotel  

 

  

Qantas promises return to pre-Covid flight levels

Qantas has announced plans to boost its international network with extra flights, more aircraft and new routes as it restores capacity in line with what it describes as "strong travel demand and the broader recovery of the aviation industry".

From late October 2023, the Australian national carrier will add around one million seats to its international network over 12 months compared to its current schedule, offering customers more choice to destinations across Asia, the United States and the Pacific.

The additional capacity will be made possible through a combination of more Qantas aircraft returning to service, new aircraft joining the fleet and an arrangement with oneworld partner Finnair to operate two Airbus A330 aircraft on two Qantas routes.

The network changes will see the group’s international capacity grow to around 100% of pre-Covid levels by March 2024, up from 44% 12 months ago and 84% right now.

Qantas said it has employed 2,400 pilots and cabin crew since borders reopened; and said a further 300 people will be needed by the end of the year.

The announcement came as Qantas prepares to resume San Francisco flights next week and launch its inaugural service from Sydney to New York via Auckland next month. Seasonal services to Rome and flights between Melbourne and Hong Kong will resume in June.

“The rebound in demand for international travel since borders reopened has been incredibly strong and this boost to our network will add hundreds of thousands of seats in time for the busy Australian summer holiday period,” said Qantas CEO Alan Joyce.

“Qantas has been the most on-time major domestic airline for the past eight months in a row and that improved performance means we can release some of the aircraft we’ve had in reserve. That reflects more parts of the aviation supply chain returning to normal and it’s a huge credit to the hard work of our people across the group.

“While airlines globally are working to restore capacity to meet demand, there is still a mismatch between supply and demand for international flying. But with more of our aircraft back in the air, new 787s joining our fleet and our contract with Finnair, we’ve got more seats for our customers and more opportunity for Qantas crew as we increase our own flying.

“We know our customers are looking for great value and this additional capacity will also put downward pressure on fares.”

Are you ready to say goodbye to having your hotel room cleaned?

The pandemic meant many hotels cut back on cleaning guest rooms for health and safety reasons.

The hotels also found that they saved money by cutting back on staff.

So now you are at risk that your room will not be serviced any more. 

And if you do want it cleaned then you might have pay extra for the privilege.

It sounds like hotels - which are supposed to offer hospitality - are becoming more and more like AirbnBs.

The New York Times recently highlighted this unwelcome trend, hilariously reporting that some guests say they prefer not having their rooms serviced.

The only people I can see legitimately not wanting someone in their room are people with guns, or folks with drugs.

Mind you, this trend is starting in the US, so there you go.

If a guest doesn't want a room serviced, perhaps because they are feeling unwell, or have drug paraphernalia strewn around, then they can put a "do not disturb" sign on their bedroom door. 

That does the trick.

With turndown service a thing of the past except in the most exclusive establishments, I prefer to have someone come in and make my bed, empty the waste bins, refresh the towels if needed and re-stock the mini bar. That's why I am staying in a hotel.

The New York Times reported that ending daily housekeeping industrywide would eliminate up to 39% percent of all hotel housekeeping jobs in the United States. So money talks.

“Cleaning surfaces and changing bedsheets during shorter stays is now quite rare,” Scott Keyes, the founder of the Going travel website told the newspaper. “Oftentimes, it’s only offered during longer stays.”

Our German correspondent reports a similar trend starting in Europe, and staff shortages have forced a cut back on hotel room servicing in Macao. 

Image: Hotel Holic, Scop.io 

The most annoying thing that sommeliers do

The role of a sommelier is multi-faceted, and hugely important, in a high-end restaurant.

A sommelier is a specialist wine waiter/wine steward who specialises in all facets of beverage service.

From creating an interesting wine list; offering recommendations to customers; opening and pouring wines, it is a serious job.

Senior sommeliers will be responsible for wine buying, storage, and rotation.

A good sommelier will suggest interesting pairings of food and wine, within a diner's budget, and check the suitability of bottles under unreliable cork closures. They decant older wines when necessary and advise on the best temperatures at which each wine should be best enjoyed. 

Sommeliers sometimes come under fire for upselling, or suggesting "natural" wines that may not be to the taste of more conservative drinkers.

But there is one mistake that many sommeliers make that is easily avoided. And the customer can insist on his wishes being followed.

There seems to be universal dislike of bottles of wine being opened - and then taken away from the reach of the table to a distant sideboard, or pouring station. 

This means that customers can be left with empty glasses - particularly in a busy restaurant.

How hard is it for sommeliers to leave bottles of wine on the table for patrons to drink at their own pace?

And what even is the point of bottles being taken away from the customer? If it is to create more room on the table, then the restaurant has a design fault. 

The letters section of the November 2022 edition of Decanter magazine features several wine lovers  unhappy with this practice.

The solution is simple. Tell your sommelier to leave your bottle of wine on the table, so that you can pour it at your own pace rather than having to wave across the room to attract attention.

After all, the customer is always right. Isn't he/she?

Image: Maksim Chernyshev, Scop.io

The verdict on Oman Air is mixed

Oman Air is the national airline of the Sultanate of Oman but has a much lower profile than fellow Middle East carriers Emirates, Etihad and Qatar Airways.

Based at Muscat International Airport it operates domestic and international passenger services.

Oman Air hit the headlines a few weeks back when it was announced that Oman Air will be joining the Oneworld alliance from 2024.

It clearly has some work to do before then.

Through some complicated circumstances I found myself flying Oman Air last week from Milan to Muscat and then Muscat to Bangkok.

Both flights were close to full but departed and arrived on time and my baggage was delivered - which is a blessing nowadays.

Service, however, was perfunctory at best - nothing like the quality of its Middle Eastern counterparts.

Even the simplest request for a soft drink somehow turned into a hassle.

The wifi costs are exorbitant, should you wish to do some work during your flight, and the entertainment program extremely limited. I was not given headphones for my second Boeing 737 leg.

The food is uninspired but edible - the lamb kofta with rice on the first leg was tasty and the panna cotta fine, but a "fish with rice" on the second leg was dry and uninspired.

Alcoholic beverages are only available on long-haul international flights but alcohol is not served inflight during the Ramadan season or on inter-Middle East flights

Oman Air appears to attract an undisciplined crowd. Several people of my flights sat in the wrong seats and were reluctant to move. Another wanted to use the toilet before take-off.

The crew response was half-hearted, to say the least and no effort was made to stop passengers from fully reclining their seats during meal service.

A pretty mixed bag, then. From the evidence of my two flights in economy, Oman Air is basically a low-cost carrier.

Still, it's cheap - and you get what you pay for.