Michelin turns its beady eyes to wine

First it was restaurants. Then hotels. Now Michelin is turning its hand to rating wines. 

The Michelin Guide this week announced plans to introduce a three-tier ‘Grapes’ system to rate wine producers. 

Burgundy and Bordeaux (how very predictable) will be the first regions to be assessed in 2026. 

Michelin has unveiled a new global distinction for wine, expanding the Guide’s long-established expertise in gastronomy into vineyard assessments for the first time. 

The new system, called the Michelin Grapes, will award one, two or three Grapes to wine estates, alongside a “Selected” category for producers chosen for regular review. 

Described as "a new benchmark for wine lovers", Michelin says the move offers wine enthusiasts a trusted reference point for discovering producers worldwide. 

The Grapes will evaluate estates using five criteria: agronomy, technical mastery, identity, balance and consistency across vintages. All assessments will be carried out by a team of professional wine inspectors employed by the Michelin Group. 

Gwendal Poullennec, International Director for the Michelin Guide, told reporters: “After having oriented wine-lovers towards the finest tables in more than 70 destinations and to the world’s most elegant hotels, the Michelin Guide is delighted to open a new chapter with the world of wine. 

"This new reference is designed for both the curious amateur and the most ardent expert.” 

He added that the distinction rewards “the people who are building the most demanding vineyards around the world.” 

Three Grapes will recognise “exceptional producers” whose wines can be relied upon “whatever the vintage”. Two Grapes will go to “excellent producers” that stand out within their peer group and region, while one Grape highlights “very good producers” crafting wines of character, particularly in strong vintages. 

The “Selected” category identifies dependable producers chosen for continued review. 

The inspectors are described as "seasoned professionals", including former sommeliers, specialised critics and production experts, selected for their ability to apply the methodology “with rigour and integrity”. 

To be honest I couldn't give a damn what these instant experts say. They will need to earn respect over the several years.   

Image: Ben Donath, Scop.io

French government offers millions to support vine pull scheme

The French Ministry of Agriculture this week unveiled a rescue package for the country’s ailing wine sector that will include a €130 million ($231 million AUD) funding package to support vineyard removal.

It comes comes after grape growers protested in the streets of the southern city of Beziers calling for urgent government and EU support as the sector struggles with a combination of extreme weather conditions, soaring costs and falling sales, news hub the drinks business reported.

The goal of the new support package is to "stabilise the wine market and support long-term solutions".

A ministry statement said: “The government is allocating €130 to fund a new, permanent vine-pulling plan requested by the wine industry in order to rebalance the supply and restore the viability of struggling farms in the most vulnerable regions".

Minister of agriculture, agri-food and food sovereignty of France, Annie Genevard, announced the package to sector stakeholders at a major trade fair, SITEVI, in Montpellier. It also includes a loan component.

French officials have lowered projection for this year’s wine output to 36 million hectolitres, down from the 37.4 million forecast last month and 1% below last year’s harvest, citing a heatwave in August.

The revised forecast, based on the latest harvest results, was 16% below the five-year average.

Genevard has also urged the European Commissioner for Agriculture Christophe Hansen to “mobilise the European crisis reserve, particularly to finance the crisis distillation of non-marketable surpluses, primarily in co-operative cellars.”

In the statement, Genevard added: “This new very significant financial effort, despite a particularly difficult budgetary context and subject to the adoption of a finance bill, demonstrates the Government’s determination to sustainably save our viticulture and enable it to bounce back."

She insisted it was not “yet another emergency plan to correct a structural imbalance,” but “an investment to give a future” to the wine industry.

The wine and spirits sector supports 600,000 jobs in France, and accounts for €32 billion in turnover, half of which is exports.

The Béziers demonstration on November 15, organised by the Aude winegrowers union, highlighted the plight of French winegrowers.

Damien Onorre, president of the union, told Le Monde newspaper: “For three years, we have suffered droughts and heat waves above 40°C. I have lost 50% of my production over this period.”

Wine industry stupidity a very bad look

The wine industry in Australia is under severe pressure. 

There is an excess supply of fruit; young people are turning away from wine and the anti-alcohol lobby gets louder and louder. 

It certainly doesn't help when young industry leaders make complete fools of themselves - and attract national negative attention. 

The Coonawarra Vignerons have apologised after posting social media images of members wearing T-shirts reading "drink more, die younger".

The guilty folk were members of the the "Next Crop" leadership program and included some high-profile names. 

The Next Crop courses included "cultural awareness, authentic leadership, strategic thinking, wellbeing for leaders, environmental, social and governance responsibilities, persuasive storytelling and collaborative impact". But not common sense.

The social media post, later deleted, attracted negative comments questioning the slogan's appropriateness, before the photo was edited to obscure the "die younger" part of the shirts. 

A very bad look. 

After being sent questions from the ABC, Coonawarra Vignerons said it "sincerely apologised" for the post.

"Their attire, featuring irresponsible messaging around alcohol, was not endorsed by Coonawarra and does not reflect the values or professionalism of our members or the association, nor the responsible approach to alcohol consumption that our industry proudly upholds," the statement to the ABC said. 

"We take this matter seriously and are investigating the circumstances surrounding the photograph and the lapse in judgement by those involved.

"Coonawarra Vignerons remains committed to fostering wellbeing, cultural awareness and social responsibility across our community and industry."

The T-shirt slogan attracted criticism from Substance Misuse Limestone Coast, while Finlaysons law firm partner Will Taylor - who is also a former winemaker and travels around the country working with the industry on social responsibilities – said the wine industry needed to take the issue seriously.

Image: Facebook

Cullen releases showcase the impacts of biodynamics

Vanya Cullen and her winemaking team are constantly looking to push the boundaries and explore new iterations of their star wines, using biodynamic principles in the vineyard and the winery.

Two new releases - both made in minuscule quantities - showcase the Cullen Wines commitment to wines that make a statement.

The inaugural release of the Diana Madeline Legacy Series Full Moon MOSH - from the 2023 vintage - honours Diana Madeline Cullen AM, whose passion for Bordeaux blends led her to introduce both merlot and cabernet franc to Margaret River back in 1976.

A blend of 70% cabernet sauvignon and 30% malbec showcases the first pick for both varieties from the Cullen vineyard in 2023, occurring on a full Moon and Moon opposite Saturn harvest in early March.

The fruit was hand-harvested from 52-year-old dry grown cabernet Vines, first planted in 1971. The two grape varieties were co-fermented in stainless steel vats and then matured for 14 months in 33% new barriques.

The other premium release is the 2024 Kevin John Legacy Series Flower Day.

It is a wine deeply rooted in Cullen's passion for biodynamic principles - with the aim of producing wines that embody the influence of the biodynamic calendar.

The 2024 Kevin John Legacy Series Flower Day Chardonnay comes from the earliest vintage on record at Cullen Wines.

Grapes were picked in mid-January from old, dry-grown Gin Gin clone vines. The fruit was basket pressed to a concrete egg for wild fermentation, then matured for six months in a new oak puncheon.

There were zero additions of yeast or acidity, and the wine was bottled without fining or filtration.

Two special wines priced for aficionados. Both have serious presence, intensity and depth of flavour. They retail for $350 each.

# The Margaret River Wine Association has honoured Vanya Cullen (above) with its Lifetime Achievement Award, recognising her contribution to the Margaret River wine industry and her "leadership in sustainability, innovation, and excellence".

Cullen aims to set new international benchmarks in biodynamic viticulture, environmental responsibility, and regenerative farming.

See cullenwines.com.au/.

Gago named a Legend of the Vine

Penfolds chief winemaker Peter Gago AC was today named the 2025 South Australian 'Legend of the Vine' at the 2025 Royal Adelaide Wine & Spirits Awards lunch.

The award is presented by Wine Communicators of Australia to recognise a South Australian who is of excellent character, who is held in high regard by their peers in the world of wine, and who has made an outstanding contribution to the Australian wine industry. 

“Peter Gago is an outstanding Legend of the Vine, having carried the message on the quality of Australian wine to the world,” the WCA said. 

“For decades he has upheld and grown esteem for Penfolds Grange with critics and connoisseurs and by association provided a halo effect on Australian, and in particular, South Australian wine.

“In 2017 he became the first Australian wine figure to be appointed as a Companion of the Order of Australia (AC) for his service and contribution to the Australian wine Industry. The following year he symbolically was appointed a Doctor of the University (DUniv) of The University of South Australia.

 “His biography shows his deep commitment and loyalty to the Penfolds brand, a 36-year veteran and chief winemaker since 2002. While steadfast and dedicated to upholding the style of Penfold’s highly sought-after wines, he reveals flashes of an avant-garde nature with bold initiatives such as the Ampoule, g3, and most recently the Grange X La Chapelle Syrah/Shiraz blend. 

“His winemaking credentials are impeccable, and he has received recognition nationally and internationally with almost every ‘Winemaker of the Year’ award that exists on the planet.”

WCA National Chair Lynda Schenk said, “We are thrilled to acknowledge Peter Gago with the 2025 South Australian Legend of the Vine award. This is a story of a local hero who has long been recognised the world over for his incredible achievements and this occasion may well mark the first formal honour in his home city of Adelaide.

 “Over the years, Peter has received numerous awards for his winemaking expertise. With this award, WCA acknowledges his incredible skill as a wine communicator. He is a wonderful storyteller, and highly charismatic in conversation, regardless of the topic. 

"He is generous with his knowledge which he delivers with humility and warmth. His ability to engage people with compelling authenticity has undoubtedly contributed equally to Penfold’s success as his skill as a winemaker, which is also considerable.”

Gago said he was honoured.

“Wherever I travel in the world, there’s nothing better than the feeling of arriving home” he said. 

Driving up to my office at Magill Estate and greeted by a vineyard established in 1844 just feels right. I feel similarly moved about being named the 2025 South Australian Legend of the Vine and I thank Wine Communicators for considering me among the many worthy individuals that work in our industry.”   
 
Peter Gago AC is the eleventh South Australian to receive the SA Legend of the Vine Award. He joins a list that includes Prue Henschke, Jane Ferrari, Peter Hayes, Brian Croser AO, Pam Dunsford, Tony Love, Brian Walsh, d’Arry Osborne, Bill Hardy OAM, and Dr Patrick Iland OAM (with whom Peter has co-written four books on wine), all of whom are lifetime members of WCA.

Why is Australian wine not making an impact in Canada?

Someone at Wine Australia appears to be falling down on the job. 

And someone at the Liquor Control Board of Ontario in Canada is doing their customers a disservice. 

On a recent visit to Kingston and Toronto in Ontario I visited several different restaurants and there was hardly any Australian wine to be found on any of the wine lists. 

And visits to monopoly LCOB stores showed that while mass market brands like Yellow Tail and 19 Crimes are available in abundance there are hardly any upmarket, or boutique, Australian wines on display. 

This is at a time when all US wines and spirits have been removed from the shelves, creating what should be a huge opportunity for Australian producers with a lake of quality red wine to offload. 

New Zealand, is contrast, has its sauvignon blanc well represented on wine lists. Thee are also plenty of choices from Italy, Spain, France, Argentina and Portugal, among others. 

I purchased a decent Wakefield (Taylor's) Promised Land shiraz an LCBO store to share with family. but there were precious few other enticing options from Australia. 

The question has to be asked: Why is Wine Australia not leaping in to fill the gap caused by the absence of US wines? Particularly as Canadians are comfortable with wines sold under screw cap and have a positive relationship with Australians.

Friends living in Toronto tell me promotions of Australian wine in the fourth-biggest city in North America are non-existent. 

And why is the LCBO offering only mass market Australian options to local consumers? Would they not like to try something different? 

Something, somewhere is very wrong.  

Image: Filotero Venturo, Scopio          

Brokenwood and Willcock honoured

Hunter Valley standout Brokenwood (above) and Virginia Willcock from Vasse Felix were the big winners this week when Halliday Wine Companion officially announced its award winners for the year.

Celebrating the best in Australian wine, the 2026 Halliday Wine Companion Awards recognise the nation’s top wines, winemakers and viticulturists.  

Halliday also honoured Brian Croser, a new inductee into the James Halliday Hall of Fame: Australian Wine Industry, an award that acknowledges individuals in the Australian wine industry who are deemed to be of the highest regard and significance.

Seventeen of Australia’s best wines were celebrated as award winners for their varietal categories. 

The Halliday Wine Companion Award winners were determined collaboratively by the Halliday Tasting Team, including Dave Brookes, Jane Faulkner, Jeni Port, Katrina Butler, Marcus Ellis, Mike Bennie, Philip Rich, Shanteh Wale and Toni Paterson MW.

The Awards also mark the release of the wine-enthusiast’s bible, the 2026 Halliday Wine Companion, which is available in stores nationally from Thursday August 21, and online at winecompanion.com.au.

The winners:

Winery of the Year – Brokenwood, Hunter Valley, NSW

Winemaker of the Year – Virginia Willcock, Vasse Felix, Margaret River, WA

Viticulturist of the Year – Dr Dylan Grigg, Vinya Vella and Meristem Viticulture

Best Value Winery – Bondar Wines, McLaren Vale, SA

Best New Winery – Elanto Vineyard, Mornington Peninsula, VIC

Dark Horse Winery – bakkheia, Geographe, WA

Wine of the Year – Thistledown Wines This Charming Man Single Vineyard Clarendon Grenache 2024, McLaren Vale

Grenache of the Year | Red Wine of the Year | Wine of the Year – Thistledown Wines This Charming Man Single Vineyard,

Clarendon Grenache 2024, McLaren Vale – 98 points

Chardonnay of the Year | White Wine of the Year – Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay 2023, Margaret River – 99 points

Shiraz of the Year – Koomilya JC Block Shiraz 2022, McLaren Vale – 99 points

Sparkling Wine of the Year – Stefano Lubiana Prestige 2011, Tasmania – 98 points

Riesling of the Year – Leo Buring DWB17 Leonay Riesling 2024, Eden Valley – 98 points

Semillon of the Year – First Creek Wines Museum Release Oakey Creek Vineyard Semillon 2017, Hunter Valley – 98 points

Sauvignon Blanc of the Year – Weaver Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2024, Adelaide Hills – 97 points

Pinot Gris/Grigio of the Year – Tar & Roses Pinot Grigio 2024, Central Victoria Zone – 96 points

Other Whites & Blends of the Year – tripe.Iscariot Kroos Chenin Blanc 2023, Margaret River – 98 points

Rosé of the Year – Sutton Grange Winery Fairbank Rosé 2024, Central Victoria Zone – 96 points

Pinot Noir of the Year – Mount Mary Pinot Noir 2023, Yarra Valley – 98 points

Cabernet Sauvignon of the Year – Devil's Lair Cabernet Sauvignon 2023, Margaret River – 98 points

Cabernet & Blends of the Year – Yarra Yering Dry Red Wine No. 1 2023, Yarra Valley – 99 points

Other Reds & Blends of the Year – Tyrrell’s Wines Vat 8 Winemaker's Selection Shiraz Cabernet 2023, Hunter Valley – 98 points

Sweet Wine of the Year – Calabria Family Wines 3 Bridges Botrytis Semillon 2024, Riverina – 96 points

Fortified Wine of the Year – All Saints Estate Museum Muscadelle NV, Rutherglen – 100 points

Wildcard of the Year – Lethbridge Wines Yellow NV, Geelong – 96 points

European vineyards worst hit by climate change

Europe’s wine regions have experienced the most significant climate shifts among global viticultural areas, a new study published in PLOS Climate reveals.

The Public Library of Science is a non-profit organization that publishes academic journals.

The research, conducted by a team of scientists led by Elizabeth Wolkovich, analysed climate exposure across 749 globally-distributed vineyard locations using over 500 grape-growing regions. 

It found that European wine regions have recorded the most extreme increases in warming metrics, particularly in the frequency of hot days and maximum temperatures during the growing season, trace journal the drinks business reported.

The study assessed 10 climate metrics relevant to viticulture - including daily minimum, maximum and mean temperatures during budburst, the growing season and harvest, as well as the number of hot days exceeding 35°C. 

It compared recent climate conditions (1981–2020) against pre-industrial baselines (1901–1940) to quantify the effects of human-caused climate change on winegrowing.

Southern and western Europe showed the highest levels of climate exposure across nearly all metrics.

In particular, the number of extremely hot days in these regions increased by nearly five times compared to pre-industrial levels. The average temperature during the growing season has also risen by more than two standard deviations in key European vineyard areas.

The study found that while climate change is impacting all wine regions globally, the severity and nature of that exposure differ. 

For instance, North American regions generally saw lower relative increases in extreme temperatures and hot days than their European counterparts.

These warming trends present growing challenges for viticulture. 

Changes to average and extreme temperatures during the growing season can alter grape phenology, including earlier ripening and shifts in harvest timing, which in turn may affect grape composition, wine style and regional identity.

Although the study does not offer prescriptive adaptation strategies, the authors emphasise that these observed changes are consistent with anthropogenic climate change, and suggest that many of the world’s most historic and prestigious wine regions are already undergoing unprecedented climatic shifts.

The findings underscore the need for wine producers, particularly in Europe, to assess and implement long-term strategies to address evolving climate risks, including grape varietal selection, vineyard management adjustments, and potential shifts in regional production norms.

Image: Vineyards in Catalonia. Silvia Arellano, Scop.io 

Done and dusted: all change in the Hunter Valley

There has been a changing of the guard in the Hunter Valley with Bimbadgen Estate chief winemaker Richard Done (above) resigning to concentrate on his own brand: John Wallace Wines.

Done, who learned his trade at Hunter icons Scarborough and Thomas Wines, has been chief winemaker and head of production, sales and distribution at Bimbadgen and Night Merchant Distillery for almost eight years.

John Wallace Wines has its own cellar door in Pokolbin.   

"I will be going full steam ahead with my side hustle now to be the big hustle," Done said.

"I will also be offering consulting for any wine or spirits brands that need the extra love."

Done's replacement at Bimbidgen will be familiar Hunter face Michael Hatcher,

Hatcher was the long-time general manager and winemaker at another leading Hunter producer, Hungerford Hill, when it was very high profile.

He was most recently manager and winemaker at Bunnamagoo in Mudgee.

Bimbadgen, in a prime location in Pokolbin, is one of the leading wine producers in the Hunter. 

The estate comprises two vineyards, a popular cellar door, award-winning Esca Bimbadgen restaurant, a café, an an outdoor amphitheatre. The estate hosts A Day On The Green concerts each year.

New Zealand wine businesses promote sustainability message

New Zealand has been promoting its clean and green wine image for 30 years now and despite turbulent global trade winds, the New Zealand wine industry's reputation for high-quality, sustainable wines remains a constant.

Released mid-April, the 2025 New Zealand Winegrowers Sustainability Report takes the pulse of the industry’s progress with sustainability.

The report highlights empirical data collected from its members that are certified by Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) - comprising 98% of vineyard area, and around 90% of wine produced.

The industry’s sustainability goals remain : Climate Change, Water, People, Soil, Waste, and Plant Protection.

“While we may be here for a short time, our impact can last longer than a lifetime. To our industry, sustainability means growing grapes and producing our world-famous wines in such a way that we can do so for generations to come”, the report says.

The report notes that climate change is the biggest long-term challenge facing the industry. The New Zealand Wine Roadmap to Net Zero 2050 released in 2024, highlights the need for change across key areas of the value chain to set the path to a net zero future.

“We can see from the data, that more of our members are implementing specific initiatives to minimise their carbon footprint,” says . Dr Edwin Massey, general manager for sustainability.

“Once you start measuring your emissions, you can then make informed business decisions around future changes and investment.

"SWNZ members submit data on their greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions. An individualised report is provided to each member, giving comparative data over time. In addition, there are also regional and national reports providing a macro benchmark for progress."

With the goal to be world leaders in water use and the protection of water quality, Dr Massey says the report shows that “100% of wineries and 92% vineyards are optimising their water use through conservation and reduction.”.

With 90% of New Zealand wine currently exported, advancing sustainability through research is paramount to the future success of the industry.

Bragato Research Institute (BRI), is a wholly owned subsidiary of New Zealand Winegrowers and bridges the gap between science and industry, focusing on and delivering research that fills knowledge gaps specific to New Zealand’s current and future grape growing and winemaking needs.

The commitment to sustainability remains a key differentiator for New Zealand wine and is central to its premium brand proposition, NZ Wine says. The report highlights the ongoing efforts by grape growers and winemakers in putting sustainability first.

To read the 2025 Sustainability Report visit: nzwine.com

Image: Marlborough vineyards

High expectations in Hawke's Bay

Vintage is in full swing across Australia and New Zealand, but there is particular optimism in Hawke's Bay on the north island of Kiwiland. 

It may be tempting fate, but the wine producers of  Hawke's Bay are proclaiming that this year is looming as a great one. 

"Every so often, a vintage emerges that could define a wine region’s legacy," Hawke's Bay Wine proclaims in its latest newsletter. 

"In Hawke’s Bay, murmurs are growing that 2025 may be one of those years - potentially rivalling even the renowned 2013 vintage."

Hawke’s Bay Wine CEO Brent Linn visited wineries across the region to hear first-hand how the harvest is progressing. 

Winemakers from Te Mata Estate, Brookfields Winery, and Craggy Range all reported outstanding fruit quality, with ideal growing conditions delivering pristine grapes at optimal ripeness.

Te Mata Estate senior winemaker Phil Brodie described the season as "unique and potentially legendary," while Brookfields’ Peter Robertson, now in his 51st harvest, noted exceptional quality in both white and red varieties. 

With warm, dry conditions, vintage 2025 is shaping up to be one of the most promising in recent history.

Senior winemaker Ben Tombs highlighted an early harvest with vibrant acidity and excellent structure at Craggy Range.

Mayor Sandra Hazlehurst joined the visit at Te Mata Estate, emphasising the wine industry’s crucial role in the region’s economy, tourism, and global reputation. 

Sally Duncan, chair of Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers, reinforced the industry's impact, noting that over 32 million bottles of Hawke’s Bay wine will reach consumers worldwide this vintage.

As winemakers complete their work in the vineyard and turn their focus to the winery, the question remains: Could this be "the one"? 

New technology can help wine producers monitor smoke taint

A smoke sensor developed by La Trobe University researchers has the potential to save hundreds of millions of dollars in lost wine production.

The sensors are in the process of being rolled out across the wine industry, with monitors now being used to track the impact of bushfires that have ravaged the Grampians.

Wine Industry Smoke Detectors (WISDs) – colloquially known as ‘wizards’ – track smoke events like bushfires and burn offs around vineyards and can advise winegrowers whether it is likely to taint their grapes; and if they need to discard their season’s harvest, or use winemaking techniques to remove the taint.

Data taken during trials of the sensor through the 2020 bushfires that devastated wine regions across Australia’s east coast found that $100-$150 million worth of grapes were needlessly discarded over unfounded concerns they were tainted by smoke.

Australian agri tech provider Goanna Ag has now signed on to commercialise the WISDs over the next two years, during which time the hardware and algorithms will be further validated by real-world fire events and the network of WISDs expanded to other wine regions across Australia.

Professor Ian Porter, a researcher from the School of Agriculture, Biomedicine and Environment at La Trobe, leads the team that developed the WISDs and the risk model over the last decade.

He said trials of their sensor in vineyards across south-eastern Australia had found that smoke did not taint wine grapes as much as viticulturalists had believed.

He said this meant vineyards could avoid significant losses of grapes that winegrowers had previously believed were ruined.

“Growers think that all smoke causes smoke taint, but data collected by our team has for the first time globally linked the amount of fresh smoke needed in vineyards to smoke taint in the bottle," he said.

"This has been the Holy Grail of research that’s now being solved.

“This sensor has the potential to save a heap of grapes they would usually throw away, which can be financially and emotionally devastating for winegrowers. It’s one of the reasons we developed the WISDs.”

The prototype smoke loggers have been developed by La Trobe University researchers supported with funding from Wine Australia, La Trobe itself and other partners, including the Victorian and Australian governments and regional wine associations.

A network of 100 prototype loggers was deployed in vineyards in north-east Victoria after the catastrophic bushfires in 2020, with the technology refined in the years that followed.

Operating like the networks that continuously monitor air quality for human health, the data loggers calculate risk ratings for smoke taint drawn from a vast database of smoke, grapes and wine data collected by La Trobe during more than 70 controlled burns and eight major bushfires.

This knowledge links smoke dose to smoke composition, phenol levels in grapes and wine and their sensory outcomes in wines. It also incorporates the critical risk factors for smoke taint, including burn conditions, distance from the burn, grapevine variety and the timing of exposure during the season.

Goanna Ag Winegrape Business Development Lead Jock Ferguson said they had a track record of working with proven science to help growers solve genuine, well-recognised challenges.

“We are particularly excited to be involved in the commercialisation of the WISDs. They are a vital industry breakthrough with appeal to stakeholders throughout the grape and wine sector in Australia as well as winegrowing regions around the world,” Ferguson said.

Professor Porter said their findings also showed that in the vast majority of cases, winegrowers need not be concerned that smoke form planned controlled burns to reduce fire risk might taint their grapes.

“The WISD is an amazing breakthrough for Australian growers and wine producers. It provides the sector with an extremely valuable tool to use during any smoke event to determine whether there is a problem or not”, he said.

“Having results in real time greatly reduces stress for growers and winemakers and allows them to market their grapes and produce wine with confidence.”

Top wine show morphs into mega festival

One of Australia’s leading wine shows is morphing into a four-day festival: the new National Wine Festival of Australia.

The event will be held in June, celebrating Australian winemaking excellence and marking the 50th anniversary of the National Wine Show of Australia.

The festival will begins with the 2025 National Wine Show of Australia trophy presentation dinner in the Great Hall of Australian Parliament House in Canberra on June 12. 

It will be followed by three days of wine tastings, masterclasses, themed dinners and special events at the Hyatt Hotel Canberra - A Park Hyatt Hotel.

More than 900 award-winning wines, including every entrant in the 2025 National Wine Show, will be opened for tasting during the festival [Warning wineries; they'll be asking you for more samples] for a premium masterclass featuring the trophy winners. 

National Wine Show chair of judges Matt Harrop will reveal what Australia’s best wine assessors look for in an award-winning wine and examine the characteristics that earned this year’s winners the nation’s top gongs.

Senator Don Farrell, Minister for Tourism and Trade, said the festival is well positioned to become a flagship event on the national calendar.

“Australian wine is one of our greatest tourism and trade assets, and I have no doubt that the festival will attract visitors from across the country and around the world," he said.

“The National Wine Festival will drive significant economic benefits while showcasing the innovation, excellence and diversity of Australian winemaking on a global stage.” 

National Wine Show of Australia Chair Andy Gregory said the festival would occupy a unique position in the tourism landscape. 

“It is the only true representation of every Australian winegrowing region - a one-stop shop to taste and learn about the very best of Australian wine,” Gregory said.

“We see the National Wine Festival as a powerful platform on which to strengthen Australia’s global reputation as a world-class wine producer. It’s a natural evolution of the National Wine Show in our 50th year.”

Tickets are on sale now at https://nationalwinefestival.iwannaticket.com.au/

Could a fire-fighting pink powder threaten California's vineyards?

A pink powdered flame retardant called Phos-Chek has proved effective in fighting fires in and around Los Angeles but sparked concerns it could cause damage to the environment, including vineyards.

Experts say chemicals in the product may have long-reaching consequences for agriculture, the drinks business reports.

There have been images published of cars, pavements and driveways covered with a thick dusting of the pink powder, which works by depleting the fire of oxygen, slowing the path of the flames.

Phos-Chek also serves as a visual aid for firefighters to see which areas have been treated and which areas still need their attention.

Some of the main components of Phos-Chek retardants include ammonium polyphosphate, diammonium phosphate, diammonium sulfate, monoammonium phosphate, attapulgus clay, guar gum (or a derivative of guar gum), and trade secret performance additives.

Concerns have been raised that Phos-Chek harms fish and aquatic life; and that it causes long-term effects on soils, insects, and microbiology, Wikipdeia reports.

Heavy metals can impact on vines, particularly organic vineyards.  

In 2022 a lawsuit was filed by the Forest Service Employees for Environmental Ethics against the US Forest Service, which said that the use of Phos-Chek had “violated” the clean water laws of the US by effectively dumping chemicals. These chemicals, the lawsuit said, killed fish and other aquatic life.

“The fires in Los Angeles, and the controversies surrounding this product, haunt everyone’s minds,” Valérie Pladeau, economic project manager of SudVinBio, the organiser of Millésime Bio, the world’s leading marketplace for organic wines, ciders, beers and spirits, told the drinks business.

Pladeau says while she has not seen “any reliable scientific references” to suggest that Phos-Chek is harmful to the environment, the accusation “relates to the presence of heavy metals” in the substance.

Los Angeles has several vineyards, with many located in the nearby regions of Santa Barbara and Temecula.

New Zealand wine innovator dies

New Zealand winner innovator Peter Yealands has died at the age of 76.

"It's with great sadness that we acknowledge the passing of our founder, Peter Yealands," Yealands Wines announced.

"After decades of groundbreaking work and a life dedicated to innovation, Peter leaves a legacy of bold thinking and environmental stewardship. His incredible career spanned construction, engineering, marine farming, agriculture, forestry, and viticulture."

It added: "Peter will be deeply missed, and we’ll continue to be guided by his motto 'Think Boldy, Tread Lightly, and never say it can't be done' in everything we do at Yealands."

I visited Yealands in Marlborough several years ago. He was a force of nature; proud of the use of baby doll sheep in the vineyards, and the use of music to encourage the vines to produce quality grapes.

Yealands, a self-made man who left school at 14, died in Blenheim over the weekend. No cause of death was given.

The winery said: "His curiosity and drive lead him to run many successful businesses in the construction, engineering, forestry, marine farming, agriculture and viticulture sectors.

"Over his extensive career, achievements included obtaining New Zealand’s first marine farming license and pioneering the development of mussel farming in the Marlborough Sounds, setting up Kaiuma Deer Estate, and designing ship buoys and life rafts for the maritime industry.

"In 1998 Peter developed his first vineyard in the Wairau Valley. Two years later, he purchased a block of land in the Awatere Valley and started developing the Yealands Seaview Vineyard.

"At the time, Seaview’s landscape of rugged, undulating terrain and wild coastal winds was considered unsuitable for grape growing, but Peter saw otherwise. 

"In the following years, Peter continued to purchase adjacent farmland to establish what is now one of New Zealand’s largest and most coastal single vineyard sites."

Yealands Estate Winery officially opened for business in 2008 - with a focus on sustainability but Yealands retired in 2018 when the business was taken over Marlbourough Lines.

Yealands Wine Group interim CEO Liam Kelly said: “While Peter hadn’t been involved with Yealands for some time, his legacy lives on in the business built through his inspiring vision and relentless determination.

"A number of our team members worked closely with Peter and still talk fondly about him. We extend our condolences to the family."

Wine on the Rocks: a popular festival returns

It's back. Sydney Cellar Door, a two-day celebration of wines from across New South Wales, returns this November.

 
November will mark the first-ever NSW Wine Month - which will be highlighted by the return of Sydney Cellar Door to be held on November 9-10.

Sydney Cellar Door will be held for the first time in almost a decade at Tallawolagah Lawn, outside the MCA in The Rocks.

The event will be run by NSW Wine in partnership with The Rocks precinct.

Sydney Cellar Door is designed as "the tentpole moment" of the debut NSW Wine Month in Sydney, which aims to be a celebration of the state’s best winemakers featuring tasting events, masterclasses and Sydney-wide venue promotions.

More information is available at www.sydneycellardoor.com

Sydney Cellar Door will showcase wines from 40 regional producers across 16 wine regions.

 
Philip Shaw and Ross Hill will be pouring wines from the cool-climate slopes of Orange, family-owned brands like Margan and Tyrrell’s will be representing the Hunter Valley while Lowe Family Wines and Robert Stein will be showcasing classic Mudgee drops.

 
The Sydney Cellar Door event will be free to attend, with guests able to purchase branded tasting glasses and tokens to sample their way through the different producers. There will be food trucks and live entertainment.

"The relaunch of Sydney Cellar Door in 2024 marks the revival of an important landmark event in Sydney’s wine culture, and one that we look forward to growing" said Mark Bourne, president, of NSW Wine.

"After 235 years since the first grapes were planted in Australia at Circular Quay, winemakers from across NSW are returning to showcase the diversity and quality of wines."

The complete NSW Wine Month program includes events like Margan’s Pop-up Cellar Door at Chiswick; Brokenwood Banquet at Luna Lu; High Altitude Wine at Sydney Tower’s Bar 83, and De Beaurepaire Wines winemakers dinner at Kin, Lane Cove. 

French wine production figures tumble for 2024 vintage

So you love French wines and are keen to buy them as cheaply as possible?

Sorry, the news is all bad with production figures for the 2024 vintage tumbling by 18% year-on-year and 11% against a five-year average, potentially creating a supply shortage.

Figures from the French government’s agricultural statistics department paint a bleak picture for wine lovers, news website drinks business reports.

Wine production is estimated to be 39.3 million hectolitres in 2024, Agreste, the statistics and forecasting department of the Ministry of Agriculture and Food, says.

This would make it one of the lowest years for production since the World War II, when the industry was recovering, and one of the smallest harvests in a century. Not since 1957 has production been this low.

The decline is due to particularly unfavourable weather conditions that have reduced production potential in almost all wine-growing areas. 

The most significant declines concern the vineyards of Jura, Charente, the Loire Valley and Beaujolais/Burgundy, Agreste reported.

Episodes of frost and hail have also been reported.

The data agency reported decline is expected in almost all regions, including Champagne and Burgundy.

In Alsace, wine production would drop by 30% compared to last year, while Bordeaux is expected to fall by 10%, after an already reduced harvest in 2023.

Jim Barry adopts lightweight bottle for 2024 rieslings

Even small steps are good steps when it comes to helping protect the environment.

Leading Clare Valley wine producer Jim Barry Wines has launched a new proprietary lightweight riesling bottle, which is says reflects the company’s commitment to sustainability.

Its reasons: to reduce the overall environmental impact of the business, and significantly lower the company’s carbon footprint.

Beginning with the award-winning Watervale Riesling, which celebrated 50 vintages in 2023, the new bottle is 48 grams lighter than a standard riesling bottle.

The winery says that although this seems minimal, it equates to a total reduction in glass usage of 48 tonnes per year.

“As the market leader for premium Australian riesling, we are excited to be the first to produce a proprietary light-weight riesling bottle,” says sales and marketing director Sam Barry,

“This bottle plays a critical role in the future sustainability of the sector.”

The Clare Valley, of course, has a history of innovation.

The region was the first in Australia to collectively embrace the screwcap in 2000 and the new lightweight bottle is billed as the next evolution of that innovative thinking.

“Our family have always worked to minimise our environmental impact," Sam Barry says.

"This bottle in just one way we are reducing our carbon footprint and ensuring our business is sustainable for future generations.”

Jim Barry Wines is now a Toitu – carbonreduce-certified organisation. The business is also a member of Sustainable Winegrowing Australia and will undertake the certification audit in October 2024.

The new lightweight bottles will begin appearing on the market in the coming weeks, and will eventually be used for all Jim Barry Wines rieslings for the 2024 vintage.

The one book the wine lover in your life needs

 

I have literally hundreds of wine books in my library.

Reference books, historical tomes, atlases, travel guides, biographies etc.

But there is one wine book that I refer to more than any other: the annual Halliday Wine Companion.

The 2025 edition (they work well ahead, the Halliday team) was released earlier in August, when I was overseas on holiday.

But I wasn't going to miss any news. My email inbox was full of newsletters detailing the high scores some of the lucky recipients received from the Halliday team.

Giant Steps from the Yarra Valley was named Winery of the Year and its 2023 Applejack Pinot Noir has won Best Pinot Noir at the awards. Winemaker Mel Chester describes the accolades as the “big daddy” of wine awards.

I don't refer to the scores that much. One reviewer's 97 is another's 93.

But the info on wineries around Australia is essential stuff.

If I need to check on who used to be the winemaker used to be at Winery X on the Granite Belt, then I know where to find the info.

And if I want to know what year the first vines were planted at Winery Z in the Swan Valley went in, the info will be right there.

The Halliday Wine Companion Award winners were determined collaboratively by the Halliday Tasting Team, including (now former) chief editor Campbell Mattinson, Dave Brookes, Jane Faulkner, Jeni Port, Marcus Ellis, Mike Bennie, Philip Rich, Shanteh Wale, and Toni Paterson MW.

That's a collection of formidable palates.

The 2025 edition of the Companion includes over 5000 tasting notes and scores, and there are more than 7500 new notes available online at winecompanion.com.au.

The new Hall of Fame inductee was Sue Hodder, from Wynn’s Coonawarra Estate.

In case you've been living under a rock, the major award winners were:

Winery of the Year – Giant Steps, Yarra Valley

Winemaker of the Year – Liz Silkman, First Creek Wines and Silkman Wines, Hunter Valley

Viticulturist of the Year – Bart Molony, Vasse Felix, Margaret River

Best Value Winery – Mulline, Geelong

Best New Winery – Sami-Odi, Barossa Valley

Dark Horse Winery – ChaLou Wines, Orange

Wine of the Year – Oakridge 864 Drive Block Funder & Diamond Vineyard Chardonnay 2022, Yarra Valley

The Sami-Odi award is a little weird as that producer has been around for almost two decades. I also noticed typos, which is disappointing. Kate Hill’s Four Winds vineyard, for example, is called Four Wines. 

The Halliday Wine Companion 2025 has been completely revised and the book provides information about wineries and winemakers, including opening times, contact details and advice on family and dog-friendly vineyards.

It would make a perfect Father's Day gift.

The 2025 Halliday Wine Companion, published by Hardie Grant Books, is now available nationwide at an RRP of $45. winecompanion.com.au

Wine industry debates how to cope with extreme weather

Changing weather patterns are a challenge for everyone involved in the wine industry. 

The 2024 Australian Society of Viticulture and Oenology will host a seminar on Managing Extreme Weather Conditions in Orange, NSW, on September 3-4 that will be webcast across Australia.

Following a year which saw numerous record-breaking climate extremes acrossAustralia, this year’s ASVO Viticulture Seminar has been billed as “never being more relevant”.

The ARC Centre of Excellence for Climate Extremes reports that in 2023 Australia saw: the warmest winter on record in NSW; unseasonally early heatwaves in South Australia; spring bushfires followed by floods in Victoria and heavy rain followed by severe wind which brought down trees in Tasmania. 

Definitely not ideal grape growing conditions.

ASVO president Andy Clarke said, “Last year we saw extreme weather events across every state of Australia. Regardless of which region you are in, these events are becoming more common and successful viticulturists need to know how to deal with dry winters, bushfires, flooding rains, spring frost and wind.

“This viticulture seminar will give vineyard owners and managers the latest best-practice advice and practical information about how to prepare for and manage their vineyards in extreme weather conditions. 

“We may be subject to the whims of the weather, but that doesn’t mean we can’t prepare for and manage the risks more effectively.

“By coming together in person in Orange, we can discuss the issues that matter andsolutions that work specifically for grape growing.”

The event is being held in association with the NSW Department of Primary Industry and Regional Development.

Registration is open now at https://www.asvo.com.au/events/managing-extreme-weather-conditions