
Tasmania has some of Australia's highest-profile distilleries: Lark, Hellyers Road, William McHenry, Sullivans Cove, Old Kempton and Callington Mill among them.
But the island state is also home to some idiosyncratic, small-batch distillers who lack the volume, or marketing budget, of the bigger boys.
One such "Mum and Dad" distiller flying under the radar is Irish whiskey-influenced Hunter Island, which is currently made in a "garden shed" in the Hobart suburb of New Town.
Damien and Madeleine Mackey, whose previous brand was known as Mackey Whiskey, have been guided by Bill Lark, the Godfather of Tasmanian whisky, as their journey has taken them from their backyard to Shene outside Pontville, and almost to Macquarie Point before those plans were derailed by the absurd stadium project.
They are now back at home, doing things artisan style,
I tasted the Hunter Island range with Damian at the cosy Robbie Brown's bar in Kingston over the weekend, and was impressed by the innovation, and quality of the whiskeys - and an outlier: a delicious clear poitin, also known as poteen or potcheen, a traditional Irish distilled beverage.
It was traditionally distilled in a small pot still, and the term is a diminutive of the Irish word pota, meaning 'pot'.Today, the Mackey's Hunter Island whiskies are created mixed mash bill of malted barley, raw barley and oats, triple distilled in a copper pot still and aged in a variety of oak casks, previously used to mature the likes of bourbon, tawny and rum.
Former surveyor Mackey and his wife established Mackey's Distillery, the forerunner of Hunter Island, in 2007.
Mackey grew up in the family pub in Latrobe on Tasmania’s north-west coast. In 1992, he began work as a graduate surveyor for Bill and Lyn Lark. Damian spent a fair bit of time in the Lark’s rumpus room drawing up survey maps, as a copper pot still bubbled away in the corner. He was hooked.
In those days, there were just a handful of Tasmanian distilleries, and none were producing triple distilled whisky.
In 2018, he and Madeleine sold the Mackey Whisky brand, and commenced the planning for their new venture, this time going ‘full Irish’ after visits to the Emerald Isle helped fuel their enthusiasm.
Single Pot Still Whiskey has always been Ireland’s domain; but Damian believed that Tasmania's rich, oily barley would be its perfect partner. In January 2020, he laid down the first Australian-made casks of pot still whisky in the Irish tradition.
Their whiskeys are now available in various 700ml and 200ml formats.
# Hunter Island was a tidal island 160 by 40 metres, connected to the Hobart shore by a sandbar. It was the site of Tasmania’s first bond store, and the arrival point for all new settlers and convicts. In 1804, a jetty was erected; later a causeway. Hunter Island was the focal point of the new settlement in Tasmania.
See https://hunterislandwhisky.com.au/
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