Bali plans major airport upgrade

Bali is to get a much better airport. 

The Indonesian Ministry of Transportation has announced its intention to upgrade and revitalise Ngurah Rai International Airport to handle 32 million domestic and international passengers by 2031, newsletter Bali Update reports.

​The airport’s current rated annual passenger handling capacity is 25 million.

Both the Ministry of Transportation and the state-owned airport management company PT Angkasa Pura Indonesia (InJourney Airport) have been instructed to accelerate planning and implementation, as part of efforts to expand and enhance the airport’s facilities to accommodate a projected influx of 32 million in the early 2030s.

​With a rapid post-Covid pandemic recovery, the island’s airport is expected to handle 24.9 million tourists in 2026. 

​A surge in passenger traffic is driven by new international airlines opening regular direct routes to Bali, including Etihad, Saudia Airlines, Sichuan Airlines, and T'Way Air.

​As a result, increasingly congested flight slots have made it urgent to strengthen air connectivity by expanding airport capacity to support equitable Island development.

​”We see that the number of passengers at I Gusti Ngurah Rai Airport has now reached around 24.9 million per year, even exceeding the pre-Covid-19 pandemic level,” said Minister of Transportation Dudy Purwagandhi.

”Through airport capacity expansion, we hope this number can increase to around 32 million passengers, thereby supporting equitable development.”

​Because land is limited in South Bali, the government and airport operators have agreed to maximize existing infrastructure and facilities rather than build a massive new terminal.

The scourge of semi-naked silver men

Bali is struggling to find a way of removing half-naked men who are painted silver from its major streets. 

Yes, you read that right.

It's a serious story in the latest edition of Bali Update, the valuable guide to what is happening on the resort island. 

Under the headline  "Bali Ponders Ways to Remove 'Silver Men' from Denpasar Streets",  he newsletter reports the Denpasar Public Order Agency (Satpol PP) is "overwhelmed by large hordes of young men, typically wearing only shorts, whose half-naked bodies are lathered with silver paint, who stand at busy intersections in Denpasar, Bali, holding tin canisters asking passing motorists for “donations”."

Authorities are apparently involved in a cycle of apprehending the “silver men” who are taken to a nearby location, given soap and water, and ordered to scrub off the silver paint. 

A short time later, the men have repainted their skins and are back on the street.

​Quoted by NusaBali, the head of Denpasar City Satpol PP, AA Ngurah Nendra, said his agency is "in the field apprehending violators who disturb public order. Once apprehended, these social violations should be referred to the city or provincial Social Services for guidance.”

​Inage: BaliDiscovery.com

New resort offers a slice of rural Bali

The wait is finally over.

Almost 12 months after it was originally due to open, Accor has finally confirmed the opening of the long-awaited Novotel Bali Ubud Resort in Bali.

The resort is designed as a rural escape, 30 minutes from the centre of Ubud's vibrant centre, it is also close to the mountainous Kintamani district, and Mount Batur.

"Guests are invited to embrace a more balanced rhythm of travel - where nature, culture and modern comfort come together to support renewed energy and wellbeing," the hotel's promotional material says.

The design features hand-crafted Balinese artwork and natural textures.

Each of the 159 rooms features a private balcony overlooking forest vistas or the infinity pool.

Families and longer-stay guests can opt for larger configurations that offer added space and flexibility.

Dining experiences include Siralada, named after the Balinese words for salt and pepper, which "celebrates traditional heritage while embracing bold international flavours with Asian influences".

The Social Hub, located in the lobby, provides a welcoming space for relaxed moments with nutritious bites and refreshing drinks.

The resort offers a spa, a fitness centre, infinity pools with jungle panoramas, and a dedicated kids' playground.

Excursion offerings include cycling through scenic villages and trekking to the sunrise view of Mount Batur, to water rafting, waterfall explorations, Balinese dance lessons and Kwangen decoration. workshops.

Daily wellness rituals include yoga and meditation sessions, while guests can also enjoy private Balinese cooking classes.

“Travellers today are seeking balance, wellbeing, and authentic connections to the destinations they visit," says Garth Simmons, Chief Operating Officer, Premium, Midscale & Economy Division for Accor in Asia.

"Novotel has always created spaces where guests can recharge, reconnect, and experience life at their own rhythm. With the opening of Novotel Bali Ubud Resort, we are introducing this contemporary approach to one of the world's most culturally rich and naturally inspiring destinations. 

"Indonesia remains a key market for Accor, and this opening reflects both our confidence in its tourism growth and our commitment to experiences that resonate with the evolving needs of modern travellers.”

To celebrate its opening, Novotel Bali Ubud Resort is offering a special rate starting from IDR 2,300,000++ per room ($186++) per night in a superior room, inclusive of breakfast for two. This offer is valid for bookings made until April 30 for stays until June 30.

For more info or to make a reservation, visit https://all.accor.com/hotel/A222.

Sunshine Coast now linked to two major Asian destinations

The Sunshine Coast now has air links to two major Asian destinations: Bali and Singapore.

Sunshine Coast Airport today welcomed its first international service to Singapore via Bali.

The new Jetstar service will operate three times per week. 

Sunshine Coast Airport CEO, Chris Mills said more than 200 passengers boarded the inaugural flight heading off to Bali.

“Today is a proud moment for our airport and our community," Mills said.

“Direct services to Bali and through to Singapore strengthens our region’s accessibility and helps unlock new opportunities for tourism, trade and investment.

“The new service represents significant planning and investment in our airport to make sure it continues to grow alongside our region.

“We’re delighted to partner with Jetstar to deliver this service and look forward to welcoming more visitors to experience everything our region has to offer.” Mr Mills said.

Jetstar’s head of network fleet strategy and planning, Ted Knight, said the airline was proud to be leading the way in opening new international connections for the Sunshine Coast.

“Asia is closer than ever for Sunshine Coast residents and visitors with today’s inaugural service from Maroochydore to Bali and Singapore," Knight said.

“We’ll be offering more than 70,000 low-cost seats a year on this route so our customers can afford to take off more for less to Bali or continue to Singapore and beyond."

Jetstar currently operates direct services from Sunshine Coast Airport to Auckland, Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney and Cairns, making it the airport’s largest carrier.

Jetstar is offering one-way sale fares from the Sunshine Coast to Bali from $209 and from Sunshine Coast to Singapore from $249. See jetstar.com.

AirAsia boosts Australian flight frequency

 

AirAsia is boosting its presence across major Australian gateways with a series of new flights. 

The moves reflect sustained demand and growing consumer confidence in AirAsia for Australians travelling to Bali, Kuala Lumpur and destinations across the broader AirAsia network, AirAsia said in a statement. 

Adelaide-Bali frequency will increase from 4x to 7x weekly from today, rising to 10x weekly during peak periods, creating more than 56,000 seats per year through Adelaide Airport.

AirAsia’s inaugural flight from Bali to Melbourne touched down this morning, marking the start of the daily connection between the two cities.

The service, operated by Indonesia AirAsia, which is part of AirAsia Group, is the latest network expansion for the low cost carrier in Australia.

Operating daily with an Airbus A320, the service will add more than 130,000 seats annually through Melbourne Airport.

Flights to Kuala Lumpur from both Sydney and Melbourne are now operating daily, with premium cabins and flatbed seating options

Perth-Bali is operating four times daily (28x weekly) operating year round, while Perth-Kuala Lumpur will have double daily departures increasing to three daily during peak periods. 

The bad news is for Northern Territory flyers with Darwin-Kuala Lumpur and Darwin-Bali flights suspended for 12 months from April 28 due to low demand. 

Carrying close to 1 million guests between Australia and Asia annually, AirAsia operated 69x total weekly frequencies across the major Australian hubs of Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide and Perth in 2025. 

Through its Fly-Thru product, the airline offers travellers access to its extensive onward network of more than 150 destinations. 

Amanda Woo, Chief Commercial Officer of AirAsia X, said the network enhancements reflect the airline's long-term commitment to Australia and its travellers. 

"Australia is an incredibly important market for AirAsia, and we are continuing to strengthen our network in a disciplined way, utilising our aircraft for popular and high-capacity routes where there is increasing demand,” she said. 

"The scale of what we are building in Australia is significant. We are not just adding seats, we are giving Australians genuinely affordable access to Asia and the world, from four major cities, with more to come. 

"We understand that the suspension of our Darwin routes impacts travel plans and we apologise for any inconvenience caused. The capacity will be redeployed to other Australian destinations, further strengthening AirAsia's commitment to the market." 

Monkey business: Why you need to be wary of simians when travelling

Monkeys can be a menace. Cute but dangerous. 

I've seen an unsuspecting shopper robbed of their groceries by an agile simian in South Africa, and an idiot bitten by a monkey in Bali. 

The closer humans come to their natural habitat the bolder monkeys become. 

Now a leading travel insurance company has issued a waning for holidaymakers; use caution or you may end up with a massive medical bill. 

Southern Cross Travel Insurance (SCTI) has just completed its 2025 round-up of travel insurance claims and reported that the number of travel insurance claims resulting from monkey-related incidents has surged by 350% in the past two years. 

While 78% of these claims were medical claims relating to bites or scratches from monkeys there were also several cases of theft-by-monkey.

In one case a traveller reported a gang of monkeys breaking into their villa in Bali and stealing a mobile phone - that one sounds dubious to me as monkeys prefer food to digital devices.

Others have had sunglasses and prescription lenses snatched straight off their faces - monkeys love shiny things. In another case, a child visiting Ubud Monkey Forest was hit in the eye by a monkey and required two rabies shots and a course of antiviral medications to combat potential rabies exposure.

Jess Strange, Chief Customer Officer at SCTI says: “Many people don't realise how quickly costs can add up when you fall ill or get injured overseas. Insurance isn't just about covering bills - it's about making sure you get the right care and support when you need it most.

“In some situations, getting home safely isn't as simple as booking a standard flight. 

“Customers may need to travel with a medical team, which often means an air ambulance or chartered flight - costs that can quickly climb into six figures. Even something as simple as upgrading a stricken traveller to premium economy or business class can add thousands of dollars to the bill."

It is pretty simple really. If you can't afford to take out travel insurance don't travel. Or be prepared to launch one of those annoying Go Fund Me pages to cover your stupidity. 

SCTI provides International Comprehensive and International Medical Only travel insurance policies for those travelling overseas. A Working Overseas policy is also available. Visit the website for more information: www.scti.com.au

Virgin Australia launches Canberra-Bali direct flights

Virgin Australia is to launch international flights from the capital, Canberra, to the Indonesian holiday island of Bali. 

Virgin will be the only Australian airline operating internationally out of Canberra, and the only carrier on this new route, it said in a media release.

"Virgin Australia will launch its first-ever international route out of Canberra, with direct flights to Bali commencing from June 22, 2026," the airline said. 

Flights are now on sale with return fares starting from $399 in economy lite.

The new route will see three return flights per week from April to January, with the potential to increase frequency during peak travel periods.

Services will depart Canberra in the afternoon and return overnight from Bali.

Virgin already operates direct services between Bali and Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane and the Gold Coast.

Boeing 737-800 aircraft will service the route, with seating options including business, economy X and economy. 

Virgin Australia CEO Dave Emerson said the new service is a significant win for the Australian Capital Territory. 

“This is the first time in the history of the company that we will operate internationally from the capital, marking an important milestone in our broader network expansion story,” he said.

“Virgin Australia will be the only Australia-based airline operating internationally out of Canberra, and the only carrier on this new route.

To Japan's ski slopes from Australia via Bali

Take an Australian chef who has worked in Bali and then place him in Japan's hottest ski resort.

Masonry Japan opens on December 12 in Niseko with head chef Tom Jack at the helm.

Jack has honed his craft alongside kitchen legend Ben Cross in Bali and at Japanese-influenced kitchens in Australia,

He will lead the new opening from the Bali-born restaurant group that is known for its Mediterranean wood-fired cooking.

Masonry Japan will be located at the ski-in, ski-out Niseko Kyo Condo Hotel in Upper Hirafu.

“Having worked closely with Tom in our Bali venues, and knowing his background in kitchens shaped by Japanese flavours [including Shōbōsho in Adelaide and hôntô in Brisbane], he brings a clarity and balance that is right for Niseko," says Cross.

"The restaurant brings an easy warmth to the region, built for long lunches, lively après ski drinks and evenings that roll on

"Guests can expect an a la carte lunch, and set menu experience at dinner. Dishes are shaped by local produce, including the richness of Hokkaido milk, winter seafood and the fragrance of mountain herbs, all brought into focus through fire."

Menu highlights include house-made halloumi using Hokkaido milk with buckwheat honey and kombu; yellowfin tuna crudo with smoked egg yolk and citrus; giant Hokkaido scallops cooked gently over fire with seaweed butter, and Furano Wagyu striploin with mandarin kosho.

Also think wood-fried king crab with dashi brown butter; and miso and Hokkaido milk ice cream with 
winter honey.

Bar director Zac de Git, previously of Tippling Club Singapore, has created a cocktail list that moves between familiar favourites and drinks shaped for the colder climate.

Niseko Kyo Hotel Upper Hirafu, Kutchan, Hokkaido 044-0082, Japan 

https://www.nisekokyo.com/

Lyvin Melasti adds a new luxe option in Bali

Done Kuta, Legian and Seminyak?

Looking for somewhere brand new to stay in Bali?

How about Melasti Beach, located in the Ungasan area on the southern coast of Bali?

It is about a 30-minute drive from Ngurah Rai International Airport and is situated along the Bukit Peninsula, an area known for its dramatic cliffs and pristine beaches.

Recently opened Lyvin Melasti is set high above the beach and is a boutique collection of villas and suites that claims "a refined new take on barefoot luxury, where minimalist architecture, sweeping ocean views, and heartfelt hospitality converge across four levels of cliffside serenity".

The property features 18 ocean-facing villas (each with private pools) and 20 ocean-view suites that will launch in December.

Designed by co-founder and product director Victoria Sokovykh, Lyvin Melasti features locally sourced Sulawesi marble floors, custom teak furniture, soft neutral tones, and floor-to-ceiling windows.

Each villa is positioned to capture 180-degree views of the Indian Ocean

“We designed Lyvin Melasti to feel both grounding and expansive - a space that invites rest, reflection, and reconnection,” says Sokovyhk.

“Everything is intentional, but never overdone. It’s a place to breathe."

Set within a three-hectare estate surrounded by forest, the Lyvin Melasti complex includes a pond at its centre, with planned walking trails that invite slow strolls and quiet moments in nature.

The resort offers nanny services for family groups.

Coming soon: a signature restaurant by Tiga Bule (scheduled to open in December), and a wellness spa (2026).

I've added Lyvin Melasti to my list of places to visit next time I am in Bali.   

See https://lyvinproperties.co/melasti

Bali plans fast ferry from the airport to popular beach

The timing is not ideal given recent ferry incidents, but local government in south-west Bali is planning a fast boat route linking I Gusti Ngurah Rai International Airport to the surf resort of Canggu.

The planned ferry route will aim to bypass Bali’s infamous traffic jams and give visitors a faster, more scenic way to reach the popular surfing destinations on the island, news hub Travel Mole reports.

The project is part of a wider push to roll out multiple water taxi services across the island over the next year.

Badung Regent Wayan Adi Arnawa told local reporters that road construction alone will not solve anymore the congestion choking Canggu’s streets.

“If we want to overcome traffic jams, it’s not enough to just build roads,” he was reported as saying “We also need alternative transportation systems. In 2026, we will design a public transportation network.”

The proposed airport–Canggu sea link would be a first step. 

Arnawa said the service would offer tourists a comfortable, affordable, and time-saving alternative to navigating crowded highways, getting them straight from the airport to the beach by boat.

If successful, similar routes could connect other tourism hotspots, including Uluwatu and the island of Nusa Penida.

Arnawa acknowledged that new infrastructure will be needed along Bali coasts. This would include upgraded beaches and piers.

Discussions are reportedly underway with state-owned ferry operator PT ASDP Indonesia Ferry (Persero).

Image: Canggu, The Bali Sun 

Bali bliss; how to get away from it all in real style

"Hey hey, you can't go back" - Patti Scialfa

There are so many places that I have yet to visit that I rarely return to destinations, even top-notch ones that I have thoroughly enjoyed.

The Damai, a little sanctuary of serenity in Bali, is a firm exception to that rule. Think exclusive, remote, and stylish. And definitely return worthy.

Tucked away in the hills above Bali's northern beaches, The Damai is a privately owned bijou resort where the air is clean, the sky clear and the sounds muted, except, sometimes, for the local frogs.

The Damai sits in the lush green hills above sleepy Lovina. 

There are just 14 beautifully appointed villas in lush tropical gardens with stunning views over the North Bali coast and the distant volcanoes of Java. 

The award-winning poolside restaurant serves delicious local and international cuisine with organic ingredients from the resort's own gardens and farm. 

The Damai is a perfect spot to relax from the hectic world outside; to enjoy the private luxury of a pool villa or simply to relax in your private pool after a massage. 

With a few hours of arriving you will be zoned out, ready to start regenerating. 

There are plenty of activities on offer; a trip to one of the spectacular local waterfalls, perhaps, a boat ride out to swim with dolphins on one of the local fishing vessels, or maybe a vineyard tour, wine tasting and picnic at a local vineyard (yes, really!).

But my bet is that you will spend most of your stay in your pool, or reading a book, or having an al fresco treatment. 

 
Unlike many of Bali's top resorts, The Damai really is far away from the hustle and bustle.

You will find yourself far from the crowds, and close to the true heart of Bali, local people going about their daily lives. 

Maybe you will venture to a dance class in the village. Savour the scent of cloves in the breeze. Take a trek to a deserted temple or a secret waterfall. 

You are only a few hours from Kuta or Canggu, but in a very different world. 

After taking in the magnificent sunsets, the only sounds you are likely to hear are snatches of traditional music drifting from one of the small nearby villages, or perhaps a rooster crowing.

In addition to the marvellous pool villas, the lush greenery and superb food, the big strength of The Damai is its staff; the vast majority of them locals.

The service here is uniformly smiling and quietly efficient. Nothing is too much trouble whether you are enjoying a cocktail, taking a golf buggy trip from your villa to the main complex, or need help with a restaurant reservation at your next destination.

The Damai describes its style as "elegant simplicity". All the villas are surrounded by private gardens and you are unlikely to see any other guests unless you wish to.

The food is easy to enjoy. Simple brasserie dishes. Balinese classics. Tropical, local and good. Most evenings dinner is served by the poolside, by a roaring fire, under the stars, with view over the boats at sea, catching the fish for tomorrow's menu.

"We use organic ingredients wherever possible." staff tell me. "Many things we grow ourselves. Herbs and salads from our market garden. Honey from the Damai bees. Poultry, eggs and fresh coconut oil from our village. Fish from the local fishermen. Very few imports, and always of the best quality we can find."

In addition to the a la carte dinner menu there is always a three-course set menu of Balinese favourites.  And don't miss out on the cocktails - alcoholic or otherwise. They are splendid and potentially addictive. 

Breakfast features a choice of western or Balinese menus, but we began each day with fresh fruit platters and a shot of "jamu" - a local herbal elixir. 

You can then go traditional, or local, maybe with Mie Goreng, fried noodles with vegetables and chicken satés. 

Dinner is usually enjoyed al fresco next to the main pool. 

Think menu favourites like yellowfin tuna grilled bleu with ripe local mango, pickled raisins, sweet and sour soy vinaigrette with macadamia and oyster mushrooms, or poached village chicken with fresh zucchini, cucumber, dill oil, noodles and a touch of wasabi. 

Stay ultra regional with grilled local fish of the day, beurre blanc or spicy soy sauce, with pilaf rice and steamed local greens. 

Your villa will be just a 10-minute drive through the countryside - past local temples and farms - to the beach resort of Lovina.

The Damai Bali was recently nominated for the TOP25 Hotels Bali - World’s Best Luxury Hotels award: a pity as I would prefer it to remain undiscovered for just a little longer. 

It was praised for couples seeking a romantic honeymoon in an idyllic, private setting; travellers desiring a peaceful retreat with world-class amenities and attentive service, and for gastronomy enthusiasts eager to experience the culinary offerings. 

“We are honoured to be recognised among the world’s best luxury hotels,” said Damai GM Andres Rubio. 

“This nomination is a testament to our team's dedication to creating unforgettable experiences for every guest. We look forward to welcoming travellers from Bali, across Asia, and around the globe to discover the magic of The Damai.”

One note: Unless you are brave/foolish enough to drive yourself, you'll need to book a hotel transfer. You are a good 3-4 hours from Denpasar Airport, and it is an interesting, albeit slow, drive.

You can stop along the way at Singarajah, Git Git Falls or in Ubud to break up the journey. 

The Damai: +62 877 888 41008, resort@thedamai.com. https://thedamai.com/

The writer was hosted by The Damai

Images: Winsor Dobbin 

Bali's second airport a step closer

Is Bali finally set to get its long-touted second airport?

The proposed new airport in the north of the island this week got the go-ahead from Indonesian president Prabowo Subianto, the national news agency Antara reported.

It can currently take five hours or more to drive from Denpasar to far northern regions of the island.

Co-ordinating minister for community empowerment Muhaimin Iskandar told the agency that the president has approved the development of North Bali International Airport (NBIA).

“We have received the president’s endorsements," he said. "We have readied the technical aspects, and we will strive to make North Bali International Airport a reality very soon.”

The airport is planned for the Kubutambahan area in Buleleng Regency district, in the east of northern Bali.

The previous administration of President Joko Widodo had previously postponed the project and excluded North Bali Airport from the list of national strategic projects last year.The reason given was the lack of adequate supporting infrastructure to sustain such a big project.

Iskandar said that a second airport is crucial for ensuring balanced regional development across Bali.

“If there is only one airport, access becomes limited. We need at least two airports,” he said.

The island’s second airport should effectively boost the economy of its surrounding regions. Hence, Bali will strengthen not only its tourism sector but also its overall economy, the president said.

The development of North Bali International Airport is part of the national Middle-Term Development Plan (RPJMN) for the 2025-2029 term. It now has national priority status.

Erwanto Sad Adiatmoko Hariwibowo, president/director of the airport developer, PT BIBU Panji Sakti, said the project has progressed as planned and the company is awaiting the Transportation Ministry’s final decision on the airport location.

“We are optimistic and only need to wait a little longer, perhaps a few months. Everything has been ready. We are now waiting for the ground-breaking date,” he said.

A luxury resort where French elegance meets Balinese charm

There is a certain style that distinguishes Sofitel hotel properties regardless of where you are in the world.

There is a calm sophistication, that unmistakable French flair, and well-drilled, smiling staff whether you are in Sydney, Hanoi or beachfront in Bali. Think luxurious, but not ostentatious.

Quietly located within the enclave of Bali’s famous southern peninsula, Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort is a very impressive five-star beach escape.

Nusa Dua is home to most of Bali’s big hotels - and is perfect location for a week of indulgence under the sun.

 


There are myriad activities on offer here, right on the beach, but I suspect many guests will simply opt for being pampered or cocooned.

With lovely sea views, or direct access to a swimming pool, the Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach has 415 well-equipped villas, rooms and suites in various configurations that offer a blend of world-class facilities, French elegance, and Balinese charm.

We were allocated a luxury room with pool access, which meant we could step directly from our deck into the pool that snakes its way around the complex.

 


The Sofitel MyBed mattresses are almost obscenely comfortable.

I would strongly advise booking a room that allows access to the Club Millesime facility, a delightful VIP area where you can enjoy excellent buffet and a la carte breakfasts, chill out during the day, enjoy afternoon high tea, or pre-dinner cocktails and canapes. Perks also include all-day complimentary refreshments and butler service - ideal for helping out with any arrangements you may need help with.

It is a lovely oasis.

There are myriad dining and wining choices, and we particularly enjoyed the beachfront Toya, where the menu features an impressive range of fresh seafood dishes. Think options like soft-shell crab bao (below), Vietnamese spring rolls, king crab salad, or a sea bass ceviche - perfect partners for a cocktail or two.

 


Cucina offers Italian cuisine and Kwee Zeen is the main dining area, there is also Beach Club and the Chic Picnic (below) experience offers a menu of fresh sharing platters on the beach as the sun sets. Available every day from 5:30pm to 10pm.



“We are thrilled to offer this unique and unforgettable experience to our guests, and we hope the beachfront picnic provides a truly special setting to connect with loved ones while enjoying exceptional food and breath-taking views.” says hotel general manager Jean-Pierre Joncas.

Depending on the day of the week, you can enjoy summer barbecues with entertainment, mixology classes. Sunday brunch or beachfront happy hours.

You may also happen upon traditional Balinese musicians entertaining in the lobby.



All the resort facilities you'd expect are on offer. There is a kid's club so parents can get some "us" time; there is a fully equipped gym with trainers, who tried unsuccessfully to get me hitting the pads, and there are bikes that can be enjoyed on the boardwalk that extends along the waterfront.

I'd certainly recommend a massage treatment at the very chic award-winning Sofitel SPA, which can also include a range of facials and other pampering.

The location of the Sofitel is hard to beat: it is located just 25 minutes from Denpasar Ngurah Rai international Airport and urban beach resorts Seminyak, Legian and Kuta are just 30 minutes' drive away should you be looking for nightlife and tattoo parlours.

With so much to do, including cooking classes, yoga, beachside golf, cycling, archery, fitness boot camps, aqua aerobics, yoga by the beach, tennis, football, volleyball you can be as active as you like, or do absolutely nothing.

Maybe treat yourself to a floating breakfast, or opt for a beachside massage in a gazebo.

Sofitel Beach Resort Nusa Dua, Lot N5, ITDC Tourism Complex, Nusa Dua, Badung, Bali, 80363, Nusa Dua, Indonesia. https://sofitel.accor.com/

# The writer was hosted by the resort

20 years of Room4Dessert: superstar chef living the sweet life in Bali

Twenty years is a lifetime in the world of restaurants. 

For one to last 20 years - over two very different locations - is a major feat. 

Room4Dessert, the culinary love child of word-renowned pastry chef Will Goldfarb, has just marked 20 years of quirkiness, chaos and excellence in its second location in Ubud, Bali. 

Born in New York, the second iteration of Room4Dessert is not only a survivor, it is challenging, fun and home of some really interesting drinks, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic.

Having started life as a late-night dessert bar in New York City, Room4Dessert has metamorphised into a dessert-focused eatery, boutique accommodation, regenerative farm, and culinary academy. 

It might not be to everyone's taste, but it is a "must visit" on the list of every foodie visiting Bali. 

Goldfarb, described as a "pastry provocateur and flavour philosopher", has guided his Bali eatery for 11 years after nine in the Big Apple. 

The 15-course main event is lauded as "edible storytelling, botanical mischief, and joyful rebellion".

The signature menu has been named Fight Club and is described by Goldfarb as "Three decades worth of stories told through the plates we create". 

Start with five inventive savoury dishes in one space; move to a room overlooking the kitchen for five desserts, and then finish in the garden next to a fire fit for a quintet of petit fours. 

From savoury curveballs to sweet sensations, every mouthful is unexpected, with a nod to Goldfarb's career, which includes a stint at El Bulli, being named World’s Best Pastry Chef in 2021 and starring on Netflix series Chef’s Table.  

The dishes are served to an eclectic soundtrack that veers from Sinatra to the Beastie Boys.

We opted for no alcohol pairings: mocktails with attitude like curry spritzes, a coco colada minus the rum and an Open Sesame without the bourbon. Invigorating selections.    

Here’s a taste of what the menu might feature: 

Lak Lak is a riff on the Balinese street snack, topped with whipped coconut yoghurt and trout roe. 

Or Raspberry HK, which features local raspberries with black sesame ice cream, sesame nougatine, and black tea milk sauce. 

Or the eccentric Fries // Shake: Klungkung-style sweet potato fries from chef Dewi’s garden, served with cashew aioli and kluwak mole. 

"No waste. No pretence. No rules. Just flavour - at its most fearless," says Goldfarb 

The Room4Dessert collection includes:

● Room4Dessert, the flagship tasting experience.

● Shelter Island, a boutique guesthouse wrapped in coconut trees and quiet magic.

● Powder Room, a local candy store for grown-ups, with natural wine and sweet treats.

● The Forest, a regenerative playground for ingredients, ideas, and education.

● Academy: pastry boot camps for the next generation of sweet thinkers.

“We don’t just serve food - we share stories," says Goldfarb. 

"We grow more than ingredients here. We grow ideas. We grow people. And if we’ve done it right, you leave a little more connected to the land, to yourself, and to each other. Sometimes, we even grow dessert.

"This isn’t a retrospective - it’s a continuation. A quiet celebration of showing up, staying curious, and sharing what’s been learned along the way." 

The 15-course extravaganza is thrilling, confronting and tiring. It's not something you'd want to do every week - but it is certainly something you'll want to do if you find yourself in Ubud. 

A tasting with natural wines is IDR 1,890,000 ($177) per person
A tasting with spirits is IDR 1,540,000 per person
A spiritless tasting is IDR 1,290,000 per person
An unpaired tasting is IDR 1,090,000 per person
*Prices do not include 21% government tax and service charge and it pays to book well in advance.

See www.room4dessert.com. Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Kedewatan, Ubud, Kabupaten Gianyar, Bali 80561. 

# The writer was hosted by Room4Dessert 

Ubud: My you’ve changed

Ubud used to be a quiet little artistic village in Bali. 

Now it is a magnet for tourists from around the world. 

The trouble is that the infrastructure has not kept up with the influx. 

The roads are shambolic. The pavements a health hazard (see the image below). 

But you can still get cheap massages, even cheaper Bintangs and interesting cultural experiences. New age therapists abound  

There is a forest where dim tourists get their mobile phones stolen by exhuberant monkeys; some seriously good restaurants and street markets abound.

So the masses will keep coming. 

The Mehrudhani Boutique Hotel is a nice affordable oasis down a laneway in the centre of town. It’s pleasingly quiet in a town where quiet can be hard to find. 

Check it out here https://www.meruhdani.com/

A breakfast for every taste

Breakfast is a thing of beauty at The Damai resort, deep in the hills of northern Bali overlooking the beaches of Lovina. 

You can choose between a traditional Balinese breakfast, a healthy “Green” breakfast, an American breakfast or a la carte choices. 

Many of the ingredients, including the breads, jams, and many of the fruits are sourced from the 14-villa boutique hotel’s nearby farm. 

Whatever your decision your meal starts with a small glass of jamu - the local health elixir. The ingredients change on a daily basis. As does the composition of the fruit plate.

The views are spectacular. The food equally so.

A full resort review will follow in a few days but here are some breakfast dish highlights to whet your appetite. 

Check out http://www.thedamai.com/ 

# Hosted