Yelland & Papps: Letting the vineyard do the talking

Following a surprise visit to Glenside's notorious Z Ward, where the South Australian National Trust was holding a wine fair in the spooky cells of the former mental asylum, guest contributor Roderick Eime met with Susan Yelland of boutique Barossa winemakers Yelland & Papps, where the pair were showcasing some of their delicious reds and whites. 

He asked Susan to highlight a couple of her favourite vintages, to which she said the philosophy behind Yelland & Papps wines is to let the vineyard speak for itself.

Their single-vineyard Stonewell Shiraz is deliberately crafted as a brighter, more expressive interpretation of Barossa shiraz. 

"We're probably trying to make a more expressive, fruit-driven, easier-drinking style of shiraz from the Barossa."

Whole-bunch fermentation builds fragrance and texture, while the use of only seasoned oak avoids masking the fruit, resulting in a lighter, more aromatic and approachable style that showcases the vineyard rather than the winemaking.

The winery's passion for Rhône varieties is equally evident in its grenache. 

"Grenache, we love grenache. We are very focused on Rhône-style varietals."

Sourced from a pristine 60-year-old vineyard on the sandy soils of Vine Vale, the fruit is harvested in two stages. 

The earlier pick contributes lifted aromatics and delicate Turkish Delight notes, while the later harvest brings structure, tannin and depth across the palate. Together they create a balanced, layered wine that reflects both the character of the old vines and the Barossa landscape.

Rather than chasing mass-market distribution, Yelland & Papps focuses on independent wine merchants and quality restaurants, where they believe wines with authenticity and a strong sense of place are most appreciated.

Beyond the Beach: Discovering Koh Chang from The Retreat

Some destinations reveal themselves slowly. Koh Chang is one of them, roving correspondent Roderick Eime reports.

At first glance, Thailand's second-largest island seems to offer exactly what visitors expect: palm-fringed beaches, warm seas and spectacular sunsets. 

Spend a little longer here, however, and a different side emerges. Dense rainforest blankets the mountains, mangrove forests line sheltered waterways and small fishing communities continue traditions that predate tourism by generations.

The Retreat Koh Chang proved an ideal base from which to discover both sides of the island.

Arriving at the family-owned resort, the first impression is one of space and tranquillity. 

Water features, tropical gardens and low-rise buildings constructed from natural materials create a sense of harmony with the surrounding landscape. Rather than dominating its environment, the resort seems to blend seamlessly into it.

The guest experience reflects this philosophy. Service is polished without being intrusive, with staff displaying the genuine warmth for which Thai hospitality is famous. Conversations happen naturally, recommendations feel personal, and there is an easy rhythm to daily life around the property.

While the pools and waterfront setting make relaxation tempting, Koh Chang rewards exploration.

One morning begins with a journey through a network of mangrove waterways aboard a traditional wooden boat. Gliding silently beneath overhanging branches, the island feels worlds away from Thailand's busier tourist centres. 

Birdlife darts among the roots while local fishermen tend their boats along the banks. It's a reminder that nature remains central to life here.

Back on land, the island's rainforest reveals another dimension. Koh Chang is home to one of Thailand's richest botanical environments, with more than a thousand recorded plant species thriving in the island's exceptionally wet climate. Waterfalls tumble from forested hillsides and hiking trails offer opportunities to experience an ecosystem that has remained remarkably intact.

The resort encourages guests to engage with these natural assets through curated excursions, wellness experiences and cultural encounters. Island-hopping adventures, paddle boarding, kayaking and cooking experiences provide alternatives to the traditional fly-and-flop beach holiday.

Dining also reflects a strong sense of place. Fresh seafood sourced from nearby communities features prominently, while locally inspired flavours sit comfortably alongside contemporary presentation. Sunset dinners beside the water quickly become a highlight.

What makes The Retreat Koh Chang memorable is not simply the quality of the accommodation or the beauty of its setting. Rather, it is the way the property connects guests with the island itself.

In an era when many tropical resorts could be located just about anywhere, The Retreat succeeds because it feels unmistakably part of Koh Chang. 

And Koh Chang, in turn, remains one of Thailand's most rewarding islands for travellers willing to venture beyond the beach.

More info https://theretreatkohchang.com/

Room rates begin at around $300 a night including breakfast. 

Black & Ginger pays tribute to Lily with a premium shiraz

Out on one of our motorcycle road trips we always come across interesting winemakers with their own unique stories, reports two-wheeling correspondent Rod Eime. 

Hadyn Black at Black & Ginger in Victoria's Grampians region is just one such character.

Along with wife Lucy and business partner Darcy "Ginger" Naunton, the trio kicked off in 2015 with the purchase of a tonne of shiraz grapes from the Pyrenees, while their own vineyard took shape.

"We started B&G in 2015, with that single tonne of shiraz. At the end of 2016, we bought a rundown vineyard with a rundown house on it," Hadyn tells us as we sit in his rustic wine shed just off the main road and grafted onto Barney’s Bar & Bistro.

But that's just a hint at the real story.

"My mum Lily had recently retired, and so she spent as much time up here as she could, doing everything from helping me clean up the house, strip the horrible wallpaper, repaint, and clean up the garden. Then we’d get stuck into pruning and fixing the vineyard," Hadyn tells us. I can see his throat is getting a bit lumpy. "We managed to only properly prune a couple of rows at the top of the vineyard. We picked our grapes in 2017; most were sold, but we kept all the fruit from the rows Mum helped properly prune for ourselves. 

"Mum and Lucy and a couple of our mates helped pick it, and the fruit was fantastic. It was fermenting away nicely in the winery when I got a call that Mum had very suddenly passed away. So we named the resulting wine 'Lily’s Block' in her honour. We only release the wine under her name when it is good enough, so it is not made every year. The label is pink, an obvious choice given her favourite colour was pink, I also added her signature to the side label."

Lily and Hadyn

As well as Lily's Block, the small-batch wines have been well received, getting some great scores from wine writers and a couple of medals at wine shows.

Find the BLACK & GINGER WINE SHED at:
3447a Ararat-Halls Gap Road, Pomonal, Victoria, 3381

Talking Turkiye - choosing a quality hotel in Istanbul: go modest and save

Visiting any of the world’s major cities can be quite a task, especially when making your own bookings and arrangements, roving correspondent Roderick Eime reports.

So, when travelling pal Bill and I planned a few days sightseeing in Istanbul, we wanted to cover as much territory as possible while still being frugal, as we still had a couple of cities to go on our little European odyssey.

Ortaköy Mosque and 15 July Martyrs Bridge seen from Üsküdar (RE)

Our first mistake: three days is too short a time for a city as vast and culturally rich as Istanbul.

Our best choice - and I’m happy to take credit for this - was staying at the Akgün Istanbul Hotel at Topkapi, although in honesty, it was a recommendation from an industry colleague with considerably more hotel experience than I have in this region.

From our base, just a couple of metro stops from the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Old Town with all its well-known sites, we were able to complete a satisfying coverage of the city using the comprehensive public transport system, supplemented by the occasional Uber/taxi.

Istiklal Caddesi - Independence Avenue (RE)

Our tick list of sights included a public ferry cruise on the Bosporus, an examination of the old Walls of Constantinople (literally around the corner from our hotel), the mandatory Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque, as well as the signature shopping district at Taksim on the Asian side. 

We even sacrificed a day for a full-day excursion to Gallipoli.

Preserved section of The Theodosian Walls near Topkapi, Istanbul (RE)

While the Akgün Istanbul Hotel is billed as a 5-star hotel, it may not meet 5-star standards elsewhere in Europe, but that did not bother us at all. 

The rooms were more than adequate with quality bedding, and our most useful feature was the copious breakfast that sustained us throughout the day. We were most appreciative of the attentive staff at all levels. 

While we were exhausted after our 20,000-step days, we still had time for a crisp lager on the excellent rooftop bar with views all the way to the Blue Mosque. And, apart from all that, room rates were less than $200 per night, leaving us lots of change to blow in the Grand Bazaar.

Akgün Istanbul Hotel (supplied)

Sometimes it pays to set aside your precious poseur persona and embrace your practical, pragmatic self.

Akgün Istanbul Hotel provides services including restaurants, bars, Starbucks café, sauna, Turkish bath, Finnish bath (steam bath), gym, spa, massage, 24/7 room service, business centre, indoor-outdoor parking, valet service, baby care, laundry services, outdoor pool, male/female hairdresser, photo lab and pharmacy.

The Akgün Istanbul Hotel is a member of WorldHotels™ Elite collection, a part of the global Best Western Hotels. You can book directly or through any major online booking service, such as Luxury Escapes.

Moxy bounces impressively into Bangkok

Marriott’s lively Moxy brand of hotels bills itself as being "for the young and young-at-heart". Guest contributor and Seniors’ Card holder Roderick Eime tests that claim at the one-year-old Bangkok property.

The Marriott people really broke out of the stodgy “cookie-cutter” hotel business with the introduction of the Moxy lifestyle brand, and the fresh Moxy Bangkok Ratchaprasong fits like the proverbial glove into this boisterous, youthful persona that now comprises 100-something sister properties around the world.

Both GOTR publisher Winsor and I have defied our advanced years and grown to embrace this outlandish brand. {See Winsor's review of the Glasgow Moxy)

My introduction to this offbeat brand was the first Australian property, the Moxy Sydney Airport. It struck me immediately with its brash, industrial-chic decor, which included various nods to retro eras like vinyl records and classic vintage arcade games.

Punchy beats echo around the welcome area, along with Liberace-meets-Banksy-meets-Warhol decorations and wall art. Naturally enough, these intentionally gaudy spaces lend themselves to social media sharing, a smart marketing strategy given the target customer base.

While similar in style and feel, the Bangkok property is the first and largest Moxy hotel in the Asia-Pacific region. It is located in the vibrant and rapidly developing Pathum Wan district, near the Chit Lom BTS, and takes the Moxy concept to the next level.

With more than 500 rooms on 20 levels, the accommodation is almost identical to what I recall from the Sydney Airport version. Sixty percent of the rooms are standard queen rooms, with the remainder in twin and deluxe configurations.

If I had any criticism at all, it would be the “cabin” size (18sqm) of the entry-level rooms, although the available space is cleverly adapted so that one doesn’t feel cluttered. Features like the “walldrobe” and folding furniture maximise the scant floor space, and the massive floor-to-ceiling windows offer a dizzying cityscape panorama.

The largest rooms are the deluxe 36sqm ones (above), of which there are 18. Another 18 corner rooms offer 26sqm of floorspace.

As a finicky sleeper whose aging bones are easily upset with many mattress types, even the expensive ones, I can soundly (pun intended) say the Simmons brand mattresses preferred by many top hotel chains, including Marriott, mean I don’t have to crane myself out of bed in the morning.

Comparisons with my local experience diverge completely when it comes to dining and event spaces. While Moxy Bangkok still retains an “industrial” feel with its long-bench cafeteria format, it blends perfectly with the arena-sized space on Level 9 where the reception, bar and various play spaces are located.

An expansive, themed outdoor terrace area is ideal for large or small events, and guests can choose to dine there while overlooking Bangkok’s glitzy ‘Blade Runner’ cityscape.

The ‘grab’n’go’ convenience booth is still tucked into the wall opposite the bar for those on the move, but a fulsome sit-down experience is preferred, especially since the kitchen proudly spruiks its many delicious offerings.

Chef P and his deputy chef Mind (above), proudly recommend some of the tasty creations offered in the Moxy Bar & Restaurant while I ponder the many choices. It seems the Massaman beef curry is their dinner favourite, while pork (or chicken) in black sauce soup is suggested as a bold breakfast boost - and I find both hard to dispute.

The cocktail menu reads like a Hollywood film festival and exemplifies the breakout bravado of the bar team. As they say in their own words, “our new cocktail line-up is a love letter to iconic scenes and legendary characters.” They go on to tease us with such creations as The Infinity Kiss, The Ice Berg, Hunter’s Last Shot, Galactic Stardust and Felix Felicis. I’ll leave you to make the various cinematic connections.

Promotions of various kinds are always on offer at the Moxy Bangkok Ratchaprasong, both with food and beverage and the rooms. For example, the ‘STAY FOR BREAKFAST’ promotion runs all year and entitles guests to a complimentary breakfast with their stay, normally THB399. I can personally attest to this feast, which will easily sustain you through your busy Bangkok day.

For more information, guests can contact Moxy Bangkok Ratchaprasong via email at moxy.bkkox.rsvn@moxyhotels.com, by phone at 02 209 5999, through LINE @MoxyBangkok, or visit the official website at www.moxybangkokratchaprasong.com. Culinary deals are also available for browsing via LINE Shopping at https://shop.line.me/@moxybangkok.

Marriott Bonvoy members receive special promotional offers and can earn various loyalty rewards, including Qantas Frequent Flyer points.

# The writer stayed with assistance from the Moxy. 

Going Spanish on a Bangkok rooftop

Bangkok may be south-east Asia’s street food mecca, but you might be surprised what else can be found in this crazy capital, our globetrotting correspondent Rod Eime reports. 

Some time ago, we sampled excellent Indian and Mexican food at the Rembrandt Hotel in Soi 18. Quite satisfactory Middle Eastern food can be found in the multilevel MBK shopping complex at Siam along with all the cosmopolitan fast food brands we’re used to at home.

My last couple of visits introduced me to the authentic Spanish tapas served by visiting chefs at the brand-new Melia INNSiDE Bangkok Sukhumvit a stone’s throw from the On Nut BTS station.

Walk-ins are welcome at Luz Bangkok on the 33rd floor. Spanish chef de cuisine Juan Ignacio García Racionero, who was born in Madrid and has honed his craft in some of Spain’s top kitchens, takes us on a culinary crusade through Spain, with a dynamic variety of local Thai ingredients in the mix, too. 

My dining companion seems too distracted by chef Juan’s movie-star looks to make up her mind, so we say, “Just bring it!” and throw ourselves at his mercy. As it turned out, I’m glad I was hungry.

Against a backdrop of Bangkok’s illuminated skyline, the dishes just kept coming:  ‘Gilda de Pulpo' grilled octopus, olives, pickled paprika and olive oil, 

‘Sardine Ahumada Con Lima’ smoked sardine with lime and avocado cream, ‘Gambas Al Ajillo’ sauteed prawns with chilli, garlic and olive oil, and ‘Ensalada De Salmorejo Burrata’ burrata with cold tomato creamy soup, anchovy and avocado are among ‘LUZ Tapas’ highlights.

“One of my favourite dishes is the ‘Pulpo a la Parrilla’,” Juan tells us. He adds mango, chilli and smoked paprika purée to create a contrast of sweet, salty, and spicy flavours, offering a fresh take on the traditional Spanish recipe.

SEE MENU [PDF]

Just over my shoulder is the mandatory cocktail bar which beckons me to challenge it and in no time the bar resounds to the satisfying rattle of the silver cocktail shaker.

To say every dish is beautifully presented and delicious even for an unfamiliar palate goes without saying. Much as I love Bangkok's cornucopia of street food, it just goes to show this amazing city has a lot up its sleeve.

DOING IT

LUZ is open daily from 4pm until midnight.

For further information and to make a reservation, visit www.melia.com or call on +66 2 340 5499.

Moxy putting fun and frivolity back into travel

You could be forgiven for being unimpressed at the arrival of a new hotel brand into any major city these days, says our correspondent Roderick Eime.

If you think back 30 years or so, you could just about name every brand on the market. Now, in the third decade of the 21st century, there are more than 1000 hotel brands on the planet, says Smith Travel Research,.

We have business brands, funky ‘lifestyle’ brands, budget brands, luxury brands, resort brands, apartment brands, fashion brands and even pet-friendly brands. And then these are pigeonholed into a dozen or so categories like premium, midscale, economy etc.

So when Marriott International, the largest hotel chain in the world by the number of available rooms (1.4 million and counting) and which operates more than 30 brands of its own, dropped a new logo in Sydney in August this year, nobody flinched.

A gold star to any of our readers who can name this newbuild 301-key “playful hotel experience for the young at heart” which opened in the Sydney Airport precinct.

More clues? Well, this “disruptive hotel channels the brand's playful vibe and boundary-breaking experiences”. OK. Time's up.

Moxy Sydney Airport on Baxter Road (supplied)

It’s Moxy and while I can’t tell you who comes up with these names, I can tell you the objective is to create a personality that resonates with a particular demographic. In this case, the “young at heart”. 

Already there are more than 125 Moxy properties open across 24 countries and territories. Moxy Sydney Airport is the first Moxy hotel to open its doors in Australia and New Zealand, bringing the brand's “playful, thoughtful and spirited approach” to our most populous city.

STOP PRESS: Sydney CBD Moxy just announced

Marriott’s adept PR people tell us "Moxy boldly breaks the rules of a conventional hotel stay with a non-traditional experience starting at check-in at the ground floor Bar Moxy and comes to life throughout its social public spaces, like the Lounge and Library and the small but smart bedrooms and stylish, industrial design, vibrant communal spaces, 24/7 dining options, flexible working and meeting spaces and social service - all at an attractive price point." 

Moxy Sydney Airport Lobby (R Eime)

So much for the cliche-laden spiel, but when an opportunity presented itself for GOTR to sample this new product first hand, we jumped at it.

Between a Sydney media event and an international flight, we stayed two nights and had a proper chance to ‘road test’ the hotel and its amenities and can concur with the ebullient PR machine that the hotel does indeed strive to break away from the conventional.

There were, nonetheless, a few little things I don’t need to detail that any brand-new hotel has to go through with new staff and new systems. I’m sure they will sort themselves out.

Someone, presumably the eminent Canadian all-female interior designer firm, MAED. COLLECTIVE, has gone to a lot of trouble to create a novel atmosphere in the ground floor lobby and breakout rooms which rejoice in retro knick-knacks everywhere you look. 

Vinyl records, a photo booth and even a vintage arcade game.

Room (supplied)

Yes, despite their compact 18sqm size, the ‘industrial-chic’ bedrooms do combine functionality and flexibility as claimed, and create a sense of openness with the huge floor-to-ceiling windows and expansive views. Remembering this is an airport hotel, not a resort, so the rooms are only as big as they need to be. 

The meeting spaces on the mezzanine as well as the lifts are faux shipping containers, not something I’d ever seen before and certainly something ‘outside the box’. [click to play video]

Dining, as you might predict, is minimalist but offers “homage to the iconic Australian Milk Bar, the hotel's street side café, Little Baxter, offers grab-n'-go-bites” where an assortment of mini-meals are displayed in a pantry-style nook ready 24/7. 

Breakfast, likewise, is no gala affair, but all your kickstarter essentials are there. Coffee is not overlooked and features signature blends and single origins from Marrickville's Double Roasters, paired with daily baked pastries from local artisan baker, Sonoma.

As any good airport hotel should offer, there is a dedicated free shuttle to both domestic and international terminals running on a rough half hourly schedule.

I imagine some would suggest an airport hotel should be just that, a utilitarian, practical property that homes in on the needs of the impatient traveller keen to get in and out of a destination. Then there are those, with whom I am finding myself increasingly aligned, who don’t mind a bit of frivolity and fun to ease their tiresome journey. I recall pre-COVID, a property across the road then named Felix (by 8Hotels) toyed with the novel concept of a retro-themed airport hotel, but alas, has now transitioned to a much blander and conventional Citadines.

Can Moxy revive the notion of travel-for-fun with its mould-breaking design? Initial Tripadvisor reviews suggest some guests are finding the unfamiliar adjustment awkward, while others are glowing in their praise. Me? I’m leaning toward the latter but acknowledge some streamlining of the fundamental processes will help. But it’s early days and I wish Moxy well. Travel should be fun and anything hotels can do to relieve the stress of travel is to be welcomed.

JUST THE FACTS

56 Baxter Road, Mascot, New South Wales 2020 Australia

Website: https://www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/sydxp-moxy-sydney-airport/ . Toll free: +61-2-91324800

Google Map link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/KruQ2DjWd5eeUEor8 

Adelaide Hills distillery has a chilling history

 

The proliferation of distilleries throughout the Adelaide Hills continues.

On a recent road trip, guest poster Roderick Eime stumbled upon The Robbers Dog, situated in the former Bank SA building in the leafy town of Mt Pleasant.

Proprietor and distiller Rob Davies came from the West Australian mining industry and moved to South Australia before the pandemic to be near his wife’s family, who hail from the Hills.

Unfortunately, as I was in charge of a vehicle, and spitting spirits is not terribly classy, my tasting was limited to a teaspoon of Rob's famous Moonshine which, despite its clandestine moniker, is a quality whiskey to rival the big names. 

Curiously, the old bank building was robbed three times by the infamous bicycle bandit who raided banks across the Adelaide Hills over a period of 10 years. The bandit is still at large and a $100,000 reward for his capture remains unclaimed. 

I wonder if he will be tempted again?

 

Hotel Morris: Accor's newest Handwritten property

Guest poster Roderick Eime takes a look at a new Sydney hotel drawcard. 

I make no secret of my fascination for old buildings and hotels revitalised and repurposed. The Porter House is one recent example and Capella Sydney is another.

So my interest was piqued with the announcement of the reopening of Hotel Morris, a boutique reimagining of one of Sydney’s early landmark hotels.

Built in 1929 as a showcase design from architect Virgil Dante Cizzio, it was exemplary of the Inter-War Palazza style and it’s pleasing to see the new owners' nod to this important pedigree.

From opening until 1963 the building held the title of Australia’s tallest hotel. Up until the recent sale, it traded as Nomads Westend Backpackers Hostel and attracted anything but accolades. The bare-bones refurbishment included much remedial work and the reversal of the many tasteless embellishments thrust on the poor structure over the years.

According to a report in Hotel Management Magazine, four agencies were behind the new design and branding of the hotel, which honours Cizzio’s style, including hospitality refurbishment specialist Reward Group, Squad Ink on brand development, Tom Mark Henry on interiors, and Fellow Hospitality, responsible for conceptualisation.

Hotel Morris also perfectly suits Accor’s new midscale Handwritten Collection featuring “charming and stylish places curated by thoughtful people.”

By all accounts, it’s a success and we had an opportunity to test the product last month, not long after the official opening, which was delayed like everything else that requires a builder at present.

Straight off the street is Bar Morris, an intimate 40-seat multifunction bar and restaurant featuring deep tones of green and burgundy, natural wood flooring, marble bar and tabletops, and brass metal and tiling. I’m having a snack on Friday evening and every seat is occupied with younger 20- and 30-somethings presumably as a precursor to a big night on the town. At this end of Pitt Street, however, there’s quite a bit of new residential, so they may well be residents grabbing an evening bite.

Bar Morris in restaurant guise (supplied)

The space also serves breakfast for guests and doubles as the reception for the hotel. So you’re getting the idea that Hotel Morris is a pared-down property focussing on being good at the essentials. 

And, as a guest, you’re not paying for swimming pools, spas, gyms and business centres that you won’t use anyway. It’s whispered that a rooftop space is in the planning, but it could be a little while off as building approvals are navigated.

There are 82 rooms in total, each in an Art Deco style with five ensuite varieties. Golden mustard tones are used throughout alongside brass detailing and bold stone finishes.

With names like Bambina and Piccolo, you get the idea that these are smaller rooms at 13 and 15sqm respectively. With a Queen-sized bed in each, there’s not room for much else. But hey, what else do you need? The rest range up in size to the ‘palatial’ Grand King at 28sqm and these feature gorgeous ornate windows facing the street.

Grand King

Despite the minimalist design, there’s a lot to like about Hotel Morris and, with its excellent location, it's sure to attract its own type of appreciative guest.

Full details and rates at: https://all.accor.com/hotel/A1G7/index.en.shtml

The writer was a guest of Hotel Morris

Say Cheese: Long Paddock Artisan Cheese in Castlemaine

Have you noticed the growing trend for boutique providores and artisans to move away from the big cities? 

Well, it’s a thing, and is no better exemplified than at The Mill in Victoria’s delightful rural hub of Castlemaine, a close but not insignificant neighbour of Bendigo, reports guest poster and GOTR regular Roderick Eime. 

Wine lovers will know of the small but bountiful Heathcote wine region, featured on GOTR previously, which rejoices in a lush and verdant landscape. 

Winemakers and distillers are joined by coffee roasters, brewers, speciality butchers, chocolatiers and other crafts folk enjoying a synergistic existence in this thriving former industrial complex, the brainchild of local entrepreneur Phil McConachy.

The Mill, and Castlemaine generally, have attracted an unusually diverse population of European specialty producers, creating a thriving and creative epicurean precinct 

The Long Paddock Team (supplied)

One producer previously overlooked by this writer is Long Paddock Cheese, a small-batch producer using certified organic dairy products sourced from local farms. 

You will recall the recent kerfuffle over naming of European cheeses, well, LPC have sidestepped this debate by giving their products wholly Australian names like Silver Wattle, Driftwood and Ironbark while retaining the traditional recipes, free from industrial-scale compromises.

Ivan Larcher inspects his creations (Rod Eime)

French cheese guru Ivan Larcher and wife Julie were recruited by Alison Lansley, MD of LPC and The Cheese School, which also operates from the same premises. 

“All our cheese is hand-made in our small-scale and purpose-built fromagerie in Castlemaine sourced from strictly local organic products,” Alison tells us.

Whether you’re enjoying wine from the Heathcote region or not, LPC’s superb artisan cheeses are a perfect pairing for almost any wine you can think of. 

For example, Ironbark is a 12-month aged cooked-curd Alpine-style semi-hard cheese that would pair superbly with any cellared shiraz or cabernet sauvignon. 

With revived rail services from Melbourne to Bendigo, Castlemaine is an easy day trip any time of the year and a great opportunity to explore this wondrous locale and the many foodie delights on offer.

Getting there: V/Line Bendigo

Stay: Northern Arts Hotel (easy walk from train station and The Mill)

Eat: Breakfast at Johnny Baker. Lunch at either Das Kaffeehaus (at The Mill) for hearty Austrian fare or Origini on Barker St for authentic northern Italian cuisine. Dinner at The Cumberland Hotel.

Drink: At either Love Shack or Shed Shaker breweries (the latter in The Mill). Cocktails at Aperitivo in The Theatre Royal (next door to Love Shack)

More: Official Visitor Website || A Touch of Europe in Central Victoria

Piccadilly Valley Trail unveiled with a special offer for wine lovers

Paul Henschke of
Greenhill Wines

Correspondent Roderick Eime discovers a great deal for wine lovers on the  Piccadilly Trail. #piccadillytrail

Five of the Piccadilly Valley's best-known wineries have formed a mini marketing co-operative to raise awareness of this delicate sub-region within the greater Adelaide Hills wine region.

The Piccadilly Valley in the Adelaide Hills specialises in the production of cool climate wines, particularly pinot noir and chardonnay, with an added focus on premium sparkling wine production. 

With the highest altitudes in the Adelaide Hills, the fruit ripens in some of the coolest growing conditions in the country and with rainfall a whopping 1200mm a year there is little need to irrigate. 

Download the
flyer (PDF)

So whether it’s the lifted perfumes and elegant structure of the pinot noir, or the texture and length of fine chardonnay, Piccadilly Valley’s bona-fide cool-climate imprint is a feature of the wines grown and made here.

If you visit these five wineries and purchase a bottle from each, you can collect two superb Riedel Pinot glasses (RRP $80) to enjoy your wine. Download the flyer

These are the premium wineries involved: Ashton Hills Vineyard • CRFT Wines • Greenhill Wines • Tapanappa Wines • Lofty Valley Vineyard

West Gippsland's pinot surprise

West Gippsland doesn’t always feature on lists of top wine regions, but guest writer Roderick Eime ventures off-radar to sample some gourmet fare east of Melbourne.

It all started over a superb porterhouse steak at the Garfield Hotel in Victoria’s West Gippsland district, a kind of no-mans-land between Greater Gippsland and Melbourne’s easternmost suburbs. 

We’d explored the village of Garfield’s main street during the day, popping into the quaint lolly shop, smart homewares emporium, superb organic bakery, gourmet cafe and even the day spa, culminating in a terrific nosh at the local.

Served with our perfectly cooked meat was the only local red wine I could find on the list among the predictable mass-market offerings. Cannibal Creek Vineyard isn’t a winery that leaps out at you but, constrained for choice, I selected the 2019 Reserve Pinot Noir to accompany our beef and lamb shanks. And what a find!

A random pinot noir can often be limp and watery; indicative of the grape's notoriously finicky character, but Cannibal Creek nailed it with a rich, spicy and luscious wine that held up superbly against the flavoursome meat and dense peppercorn sauce.

So, you guessed it, Cannibal Creek Vineyard was top of the list for the following day’s excursions.

Cannibal Creek Vineyard Tasting Room (RE)

Even on a damp and sultry weekday, the winery’s modern cellar door was half full of eager wine buffs and it was here we met the co-owner, Kirsten Hardiker, in front of the tasting room’s open fire. 

A boundary line’s stone throw past the Tynong Quarry, north off Highway One is where Kirsten and partner, Patrick, (main pic above) set up the vineyard 25 years ago.

Kirsten Hardiker

“While we didn’t set out to win awards, reviews on our first pinot noir in the year 2000 gave us the added confidence in the vineyard’s potential and the confidence to continue,” Kirsten tells us. And continue they did!

Apart from the pinot, visitors can taste and buy from an impressive range of varieties including sparkling, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and a stunning, newly-added rosé. 

As a South Australian, I cast a particularly critical eye on the cabernet sauvignon and am pleased to report it stands up well against our prize variety.

The French-inspired restaurant is open Friday to Sunday only serving mainly locally-sourced produce. The braised ox cheeks would make for a wonderfully hearty winter feast.

West Gippsland and the towns of Bunyip, Tynong, Garfield and Nar Nar Goon are an easy drive out along the Princes Highway from Melbourne and are also served by train along the Gippsland Line.

Details:

Cannibal Creek Vineyard
Winery, Restaurant and Cellar Door
260 Tynong North Road [Google Map Link]
Tynong North, Victoria 3813
03 5942 8380 or 0438 518 506
www.cannibalcreek.com.au

Talented women driving Thai wine success

Guest blogger Roderick Eime hits the vineyards of Thailand. 

The Thai wine industry may not be about to kick France or Australia off their perches, but it definitely is making inroads.

On a recent visit to Thailand, I was fortunate to stay at the Lohitnavy family’s superb winery resort, GranMonte, in the lush Asoke Valley, about two hours by road north-east from Bangkok and on the verge of the Khao Yai National Park.

The 30-hectare property was established 20 years ago and began with a few modest plantings of chenin bland and shiraz. It now grows grenache, durif, cabernet sayvignon, malbec and even mataro in the reds and has added viognier, verdelho and semillon to its range of whites.

Patriarch Visooth Lohitnavy, a champion of the local tourist industry, installed his talented daughters, Nikki and Mimi, into critical positions of winemaker and marketing manager. 

To ensure their success, both were educated in Australia to tertiary level, with Nikki achieving her Bachelor of Viticulture and Oenology at Adelaide University’s prestigious Waite Campus at Urrbrae. 

The resort comprises a small, but excellent restaurant under the guiding hand of the women’s mother, Sakuna, as well as seven twin rooms amid the vineyards. A retail centre and tasting room are also part of the complex.

Pruning is done twice a year and harvesting at night (RE)

Currently, the GranMonte team are working against an internal revenue system that does not favour small producers, but notwithstanding the boutique winery produces 90,000 bottles annually and is looking to double that output with new plantings nearby. 

The winery has also secured several lucrative contracts to supply private label wines to several major hotels in Thailand. 

With its handy proximity to the UNESCO World Heritage park, GranMonte provides a perfect weekend getaway for those wishing to escape the crush of Bangkok and enjoy nature, fresh air and superb wine.

The writer wishes to thank the Tourism Authority of Thailand for their assistance in making this story possible.

Main photo: Bangkok Post

READ MORE: Granmonte Vineyard’s Australian connection

Bangkok's towering hotel is out of this world

Rising like some majestic, mythological spire from a Tolkein tale, the 88-storey Baiyoke Tower lords it over the more modest constructions in the Pratunam area of downtown Bangkok. Guest blogger Roderick Eime let his imagination run wild.

When opened amid much fanfare in 1997 after a gruelling seven-year construction, Baiyoke Tower II stood more than 300 metres above ground level, making it the tallest building in all of Thailand. 

As part of the megalithic construction, a luxury hotel occupies floors 22 to 74 and comprises 673 rooms with views from the rooms leaving nothing to the imagination. Dubbed the Baiyoke Sky Hotel, its name is no exaggeration.

Panorama Suite (not Coruscant) - supplied

We stayed in one of the eight massive (85m2) Panorama Suites situated on the 54th and 55th floors. To continue the fairy tale fantasy, I couldn’t help thinking this huge enclosed balcony in many ways resembled the Jedi Council Chamber at the summit of the High Council Tower of the Jedi Temple on Coruscant, such was the stratospheric view over the planet far below.

One of the highlights (pun intended) of any stay at the Baiyoke Sky Hotel is breakfast. Whether you choose to dine in-room and gaze out over the cityscape in your bathrobe or venture up to the 81st floor and into one of the exclusive open-air ‘Sky Boxes’, it’s a culinary experience to remember.

Rooftop Bar on the 83rd floor - supplied

The Rooftop Bar on the 83rd floor is a hard act to follow too. Any Martini consumed at 300m is bound to leave an impression.

Daytrippers are welcome, too, with the observation deck and revolving floor allowing views as far as Suvarnabhumi Airport, 25km distant. Until 10pm, 400THB will get you a drink and selfie worth Facegloating about.

View from the top (RE)

A top-to-bottom review of the hotel wouldn’t be fair under immediate post-Covid conditions, as the covers have only just come off after many weeks in the hospitality doldrums.

Some venues within the hotel like the Crystal Grill and Stella Palace are yet to reopen, but suffice to say that the Baiyoke Sky Hotel is quickly gaining momentum and occupancy is rising quickly as Thailand relaxes its entry requirements. 

The Baiyoke Sky Hotel is the flagship property of the Baiyoke Group of Hotels which operates 10 properties throughout Thailand.

Location: 222 Soi Ratchaprarop 3, Ratchaprarop Road, Ratchathewi, Bangkok 10400 Thailand

Nearest Transport: Ratchaprarop station on the airport line.

Tel: +66 (0) 2656 3000, +66 (0) 2656 3456, Fax: +66 (0) 2656 3555, +66 (0) 2656 3666, Email: baiyokesky@baiyoke.co.th

The writer stayed as a guest of Baiyoke Group of Hotels and Tourism Thailand Experts