TarraWarra Estate adds new premium wine experiences

One of my very first gigs as a wine writer was attending the opening of TarraWarra Estate in Victoria's Yarra Valley. 

Owners Marc and Eva Besen put on quite a show. 

 

Four decades on, Ultimate Winery Experiences Australia (UWEA) has welcomed TarraWarra as the newest member of its collection of premium Australian wineries.

TarraWarra Estate brings together cool-climate wine, food, art and nature across a 400-hectare property in the heart of one of Australia's most-visited wine regions.

The Besens purchased the property in 1979 and launched four or five years later. 

Today, the estate encompasses 23.9 hectares of vines, an extensive nature reserve, cattle grazing, a kitchen garden, cellar door and restaurant, as well as a spectacular art gallery. 

UWEA executive officer Sarah Myers says TarraWarra Estate's combination of wine, food, art, impressive architecture and landscape makes it a natural addition to the collective.

“What makes TarraWarra special is how seamlessly these elements come together. Visitors can spend time exploring the estate, discovering its wines and food, and engaging with the art, architecture and natural environment in a way that feels distinctly Yarra Valley,” said Myers.

“TarraWarra reflects what we look for in an Ultimate Winery Experience – it goes well beyond wine tasting and gives visitors a deeper connection to the winery, its story and the region."

At the heart of TarraWarra Estate is its striking subterranean cellar door, where visitors can explore wines including chardonnay, pinot noir and syrah, alongside barbera, nebbiolo, pinot noir rosé and a roussanne-viognier-marsanne blend from talented winemaker Sarah Fagan. 

The chef-hatted restaurant is led by head chef Daniel Snooks. 

Two signature experiences will form part of TarraWarra Estate's UWEA offering.

The Vineyard Tour & Tasting ($200 per person) takes guests on a guided tour of the vineyards for an introduction to the estate and its approach to sustainable viticulture, before moving into the barrel hall for a private tasting of chardonnay and pinot noir. 

For a deeper immersion, Land, Vine & Vision ($450 pp) sees guests are welcomed at the cellar door before enjoying a six-course lunch with matched wines at the estate restaurant, followed by a visit to the TarraWarra Museum of Art and the Eva and Marc Besen Centre, where they can view works from the museum's collection that would ordinarily be held in storage. A version including private return transfers from Melbourne is also available for $750 per person.

“We are excited to work with Ultimate Winery Experiences Australia and the wineries it represents, each offering a unique perspective on Australian wine and the regions we call home,” said TarraWarra Estate general manager Samantha Isherwood.

TarraWarra Estate is at 311 Healesville-Yarra Glen Road, Yarra Glen. 

The cellar door is open Tuesday to Sunday, with the restaurant open Wednesday to Sunday for lunch.

Tahbilk aims to reunite one lucky Australian family

Tahbilk, one of Australia's leading family wineries, is to host a family reunion as part of its Long Lost Lunch day in October. 

 
The day will be dedicated to reconnecting, sharing stories and creating family memories around the table.

The event will be hosted by the Purbrick family (above), along with Saroo Brierley, who knows knows first-hand the life-changing power of a family reunion.

At just five years old, Saroo became separated from his family in India after becoming lost at a train station. 

After surviving alone on the streets of Kolkata, he was placed in an orphanage before being adopted by an Australian family and raised in Hobart. 

Curious about his history, Saroo never stopped searching for the family he had left behind. Guided only by childhood memories and years of determination, he eventually found his hometown using Google Earth before travelling back to India. 

A quarter of a century after they were separated, Saroo was reunited with his birth mother in a remarkable story that would go on to inspire the award-winning film Lion.

Nominations are now open for families whose reunion has been far too long in the making to apply for a spot at the event, which is close to the Purbrick family's heart. 

The selected family members will be flown to the Nagambie Lakes estate with flights and accommodation included. 

Fourth-generation Tahbilk custodian Alister Purbrick believes the initiative reflects values that have been part of the estate for generations.

"For generations, our family has shared meals, stories and milestones around the same table," he said. "We know how special these moments are and we are honoured to help another family create memories and celebrate what matters most.

"Imagine a great grandfather meeting their great grandbabies for the first time; sisters divided by distance, cousins connecting."

 
Nominations are now open for families whose reunion has been far too long in the making. They close on August 28. 

See https://www.tahbilk.com.au/the-long-lost-lunch

Coonawarra vignerons hit the road again

One of Australia's most popular and longest-running wine events hits the road again. For the 23rd time.

The 2026 Coonawarra Wine Tasting Roadshow will bring the flavours and stories of Coonawarra to wine lovers across the country, from a spring Sydney Harbour wine cruise and an inner-city tasting with panoramic Melbourne skyline views, to a relaxed beachfront afternoon on the Sunshine Coast.

Backed by a close-knit community of passionate producers - from multi-generational family wineries to innovative new players - the Roadshow continues to champion the depth, diversity, and distinction of medium-bodied Coonawarra wines.

Emma Raidis from Raidis Estate (above) says the Roadshow is one of the highlights of the year for Coonawarra producers.

"We love the Coonawarra Roadshow because it's about so much more than pouring wine," she says.

"It's about meeting people face-to-face, sharing a laugh, telling our family's story and showing why we're so passionate about Coonawarra.

"Seeing the enthusiasm people have for our region reminds us why we do what we do, and we always leave with new friendships and great memories."

Tickets include event entry, souvenir Riedel wne glass, three hours of unlimited wine tastings, complimentary food offerings and the opportunity to meet the makers  

You'll find all the details here: https://coonawarra.org/coonawarra-wine-tasting-roadshow-2026/

Winemaker Blackburn lands at Latitude 32

Former Brand's Laira, Australian Vintage and Kirrihill winemaker Amy Blackburn has a new post in the Hunter Valley.

Blackburn has joined Latitude 32 Wines as chief winemaker.

"With more than 20 years of experience across some of Australia's leading wineries, Amy brings a wealth of knowledge, fresh ideas and a passion for crafting exceptional wines," the winery said in an email.

"As she joins us to lead our winemaking operations, we're excited for what this next chapter will bring while continuing to honour the Hunter Valley's rich winemaking heritage."

The former Mistletoe property is among Latitude 32's properties, owned by Emma and David White.

Their cellar door is open seven days a week and offers a range of tasting choices including the Sweet & Sparkling Experience, a guided tasting bringing together indulgent sweet treats and vibrant bubbles.

There is also a new dumplings menu with five different dumpling flavours paired with Latitude 32 wines. Think flavours like Alaskan crab, lemongrass beef, Asian vegetable, chicken and mushroom, and sweet apple and cinnamon. 

See https://latitude32wines.com/
 

Shaw+Smith Australian benchmark delivers again

 

For almost four decades there is one Australian sauvignon blanc that has been the benchmark. 

When cousins Martin Shaw and Michael Hill-Smith launched their first Adelaide Hills sauvignon blanc 37 years ago the grape variety was virtually unknown in Australia. 

A few wine lovers drank imported Sancerre, or knew the variety was a key component of Bordeaux white blends, but the Kiwi savalanche had yet to be fully unleashed and the cousins were largely taking a leap into the unknown, buying some fruit from neighbour Geoff Hardy to kick start their endeavour. 

The 2026 Shaw + Smith Sauvignon Blanc has just been released - and it remains hugely popular, a staple of wine lists at seafood and Chinese restaurants across the country. 

The strength of the brand is that the fruit is always from the Adelaide Hills - and that the style delivers exactly what consumers have come to expect. 

Shaw + Smith offers aromatics, vibrancy, fresh fruit character and dryness on the palate. There is no intrusive oak, no excessive lees stirring. Just what it drinkers have come to expect. 

I attended one of Shaw+Smith's annual yum cha lunch launches - at Kwan Ho in Hobart - and can confirm the new release is as good as ever. 

"It was a unique vintage with a bit of everything thrown in weather wise, but we are very happy with the end result," said Shaw. 

"We had a few sleepless nights but hand picking and table sorting helped with quality fruit and we ended up with a wine with great natural acidity and bright fruit."

After just a few weeks in bottle the wine is already fun and approachable, zingy with benchmark pink grapefruit and flinty mineral notes. It's a lovely drink and well priced at around $35 a bottle. 

Nowadays, of course, Shaw + Smith is one of the leading Adelaide Hills wine producers - with an impressive cellar door tasting facility.

They focus on varieties that suit the cooler Hills climate with a range that now includes riesling, chardonnay, pinot noir and shiraz.

Their peak releases are stellar single-vineyard wines. 

See https://www.shawandsmith.com/    

   

 

Two of Australia's storied family wineries celebrate together

Two of Australia's leading winemaking families got together this month to celebrate a decade of working together.

The Morris family from Rutherglen, in north-east Victoria, has been making bold reds and fortified wines since 1859. By 1885, Morris was reported to be the biggest wine producer in the southern hemisphere. 

Current winemaker Madden Morris is the sixth generation to hold the reins after taking over from his father David in the company's 165th year. He describes the family wines as "legacy in a glass". 

Casella Family Brands, from Yenda in the NSW Riverina, is Australia's largest family-owned beverage company. 

Founded in 1969, although the family sold grapes for decades before that, Casella is best known for selling over 10 million cases of [yellow tail] around the world each year and also owns labels including Peter Lehmann and Baileys of Glenrowan.

A decade ago, French conglomerate Pernod Richard Winemaker, the then owners of the Morris business, were keen to sell, and the Morris family was anxious to buy the business back - but lacked the cash.

Up stepped Casella boss John Casella, a long-time family friend, to acquire the rights.

In July 2016, Morris of Rutherglen was back in Australian hands, and the family regained control.

David Morris and John Casella 

David Morris told the 10th anniversary celebration how the Casellas had come to his family's aid.

“It was a very devastating decision that they [Pernod Ricard] made," he said. "It was the final nail that they could put into our coffin. We were making good sales, we were 70% table and sparkling wine and only 30% fortified wine at that point. We were a very small winery in their portfolio.

“When they made the decision, it came about very quickly, and they gave us a couple of weeks to find a buyer. Then we managed to get the deposit in the day before [the deadline]. It is now amazing to be back in family stewardship and have some longevity back in the brand.

“We went from devastating news to fantastic within about a month.”

Morris said Casella was one of the first friends he called, with the result that the historic winery returned to family stewardship and secure its long-term future as a partnership with the Cassela family.

“Morris is an Australian icon and we couldn’t allow it to be lost," John Casella told the event. "And to see where we are today, with the barrels in the cellar, this beautiful cellar door, none of this would have existed."

Over the past decade, Casella Family Brands has invested in the Morris of Rutherglen business, building on its cellar door offering and resuming long-lost distilling operations to produce world-class whiskies made by Scottish-born head distiller Darren Peck.

Morris is now a triple-threat destination offering wines, fortifieds and spirits. 

Its muscats and topaques are regarded among the best in the world and the Morrises have long championed the big red grape variety durif (aka petite sirah), which Madden Morris describes as "shiraz on steroids".

Guests at the event also enjoyed a tour of the Morris distillery - and the still built in 1933 - as well as a spectacular display of barrel charring. 

Visitors should not miss the aromatic - and atmospheric - old cellars.

 
# The writer was a guest of Morris of Rutherglen and Casella Family Wines.

Penfolds unveils new collection from four corners of the globe

 

The invitations drop in late April. Hardly anyone declines. 

The Penfolds Collection 2026 Preview Tasting is one of the major wine tastings of the year. 

But attendees, brilliantly looked after, have certain rules that must be followed. 

Tastings are conducted by chief winemaker Peter Gago (below) and his team around the world. 

Australian trade media, journalists and educators tasted in Adelaide in June - at EOS by Sky City and then at Magill Estate. 

Others sniffed, sipped and spat in London, New York and Paris. The wines will be released on August 6. 

All of us who attended the tastings were all sworn to secrecy. No tasting notes to be published until today’s deadline. No sneaky social media bottle images.  

Everyone has had time to consider their notes - and thoughts. The 99s and 98s will flow freely today. Probably a 100 or two. 

What struck me most about the tasting was the way the Penfolds style is now reflected across a global range of wines: from the US to France and China. 

The bold and rich Bordeaux-style 2023 FWT (French Winemaking Trial) 585 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Petit Verdot shines, while the immediately approachable 2024 CWT (Chinese Winemaking Trial) Bin 521, a blend of cabernet and marselan, is absolutely outstanding and a tribute to the winemaking skills across the team.

“No longer a novelty, no fancy wordsmithing – all of these wines are unmistakably Penfolds, sourced from different hemispheres,” says Gago.

This year’s domestic release is anchored by the 75th Anniversary of Grange, with the outstanding 2022 released this year - as usual as a wine with four years of bottle age.

“The 2022 Grange assuredly authenticates its flagship role and 75th anniversary credentials," says Gago. "No pressure. Both timely and lucky - to avail such a stellar vintage in such a symbolic year.”

Marking three-quarters of a century since its first experimental vintage in 1951, the anniversary release pays tribute to Grange’s evolution from an experimental wine crafted by Penfolds maiden chief
winemaker, Max Schubert, to a global icon.

 


We lucky invitees were also able to taste several back vintages of Grange, all with that unmistakable line of quality. The imperious new release comprises 85% Barossa fruit, aided by McLaren Vale and Coonawarra material.  

Inky, rich, sumptuous. Take your pick of adjectives.

For those who do not have a grand to drop on a bottle, I can recommend the fulsome and inviting 2024 Magill Estate Shiraz and the brilliant 2023 St Henri Shiraz. 

The other stars of the release include brilliantly balanced cabernet sauvignons. The complex and fine 2024 Penfolds Bin 707 and its younger sibling Bin 407 - a definite cellar prospect - serve as outstanding examples of multi-regional South Australian blends.

For chardonnay lovers Yattarna and Bin 311, both from 2024, are both wines of purity and definition, while the 2025 Bin 23 Pinot Noir is arguably the best release of that wine yet.

"Nothing stands still," Gago says. Yet through thick and thin, across the years, these Collection wines stand tall." 

 

He's right.  

Meet an in-depth guide to the Tasmanian wine industry

Want to know more about wines from Tasmania and the people who make them?

Who better as your guide than wine writer Mark Smith, who has been covering Tasmania and its producers for over 30 years.

Smith has recently launched his impressive labour of love wineintasmania.com, which is full of useful info for both serious wine lovers and those with a casual interest.

Smith says he was motivated to launch the free website by the increasing number of wine producers on the island, and the growing interest.

"I figured that if it’s getting hard for me to keep up with Tassie developments, it must be hard for media and industry folks more generally who are trying to keep up with the industry," Smith says.

"The industry has expanded so rapidly of late that few people have been able to keep up, even within the business."

So if you want to know the history of Small Wonder, or where Sailor Seeks Horse comes from then wineintasmania.com delivers.

Good news: The site has nothing to do with selling wine. No ads, endorsements, product placements, subscriptions.

The site features more than 450 pages of content and covers more than 180 Tasmanian wine producers.

For the more serious, there is site specific climate data for single vineyards, news/back stories about what’s going on at the moment and plenty of archival material, including vintage reports.

The site is fully navigable with a search box in the nav bar.

Want to know about Tasmania's only/first gruner veltliner, baco noir or chenin blanc? You'll find the info here.

There is still work to do. As Smith explains: "With 3rd and 4th generation ownership of vineyards, very few know the full story about how their vineyard came into being and evolved."

Still to come: distributor details, an events calendar, vineyard map locations and more.

I know that this is a site I will be referring to an a regular basis. Well worth bookmarking.  

Image: Mark Smith

Australia's smallest grape vintage for 25 years

Australia’s 2026 wine grape crush fell to 1.27 million tonnes - its smallest since 2000 - but the reduced national crop did not result in stronger grape prices, Wine Australia’s National Vintage Report 2026 reveals.

Released today. the report says the national crush is estimated to be 1.27 million tonnes, down 300,000 tonnes (19%) from the 2025 crush and 25% below its 10-year average of 1.69 million tonnes. 

This equates to around 33 million fewer 9-litre cases of wine - not necessarily disturbing at a time when demand is reduced. 

Wine Australia manager for market insights, Peter Bailey, said that this year’s crush reflected both seasonal pressures and a broader response to changed consumer demand.

“A number of significant seasonal challenges, including flooding in the inland regions, had an impact on production, but the main driver of this lower crush is a deliberate adjustment in response to changing market conditions,” Bailey said.

“There have now been four vintages in a row below the long-term average, suggesting an underlying reset in the tonnage of grapes required by winemakers to meet changing global demand.”

Overall, the 2026 crush was 306,334 tonnes smaller than 2025, with red varieties accounting for 80% of the decrease. 

The crush of white grapes declined by a more modest 62,774 tonnes (9%) resulting in a big jump in white’s share of the total crush - up six percentage points to 53%. 

This is only the second time in the past 12 years that whites have accounted for the majority of the crush.

Mr Bailey said this shift was likely a reflection of changing global consumer preferences toward white wine.

Bailey noted that the drop in average values across the board had occurred despite the very low crush size, which is expected to take pressure off wine stocks.

“There has been no improvement in grape prices, which suggests that demand is still very soft,” he said. “It’s concerning that there is no sign of recovery for reds despite such a significant adjustment, and that prices for whites are also now declining.”

The National Vintage Report is available on Wine Australia’s website. 

Coincidentally, Wine Tasmania today released its 2026 vintage report with Tasmanian producers celebrating "exceptional quality, intense flavours and vibrant freshness" despite facing one of the lowest-yielding and most challenging growing seasons on record.

Following a record-breaking 23,002 tonnes in 2025, the 2026 vintage will be remembered for its scarcity at just 11,163 tonnes, roughly equating to around 10 million bottles.

A historically cold, dry and brutally windy spring severely impacted flowering and fruit set across the island, dramatically reducing bunch weights and overall yields, with some growers reporting yields of 50% below last year.

Sheralee Davies, CEO of Wine Tasmania, praised the resilience and skill of the island’s grape growers and winemakers who navigated the season’s demanding conditions.

“If 2025 was a year of abundance, 2026 is a vintage of absolute concentration and character - for both our grapes and growers,” Davies said. “Nature threw everything it had at the island this season - from late spring frosts and unrelenting winds to a cool, drawn-out summer which delayed harvest by up to 3-4 four weeks in some areas.”

Reflecting the focus on quality not quantity, Tasmania’s 2026 wine grape harvest represented just 0.9% of the country’s total by volume, but 5.0% of the national value.

Langtons to go global with new international wine classification

Australian fine wine authority Langtons, which publishes the respected classification of Australian wines, is to go global.

Langtons announced today that it will launch its inaugural Classification of International Wine later this year. 

The Classification of Australian Wine has been a trusted guide for benchmarking local wines in the fine
wine market since 1990.

“Australian wine palates are diverse and ever-expanding, with international wines holding an established presence in the collections of the country’s top wine drinkers," says Langtons GM Tamara Grischy. 

"The Langtons Classification of International Wine will be a vital resource for these collectors by highlighting the finest global wines that drive the Australian auction market."

Set to be unveiled in early August, the Langton Classification of International Wine will feature a

collection of 160 wines from across the world’s top wine regions in France, Italy, New Zealand, US, Spain, Portugal and Germany ( but surprisingly not Argentina, or South Africa). 

The list has been developed through secondary market auction data collected over the last five years from every international bottle that has been traded through Langtons. 

Just like its Australian counterpart, the Classification of International Wine is not based on opinion, wine show medals or scores, but data reflective of the country’s top fine wine collectors.

“We look at every bottle of wine internationally that’s sent into Langtons," says Langtons head of auctions Michael Anderson. "This includes aspects such as a wine’s previous bidding history; its clearance rate; and changes to its current value versus when the wine was bought.” 

The purpose is two fold. First, it will provide insights into the secondary market trends to assist those avid investors and collectors of fine wine, and secondly it will also act as an authoritative guide for those in search of a high-quality international wine for enjoying now.

Anderson says that the Classification of International Wine will feature a mix of hard to find cult classics and established titans of the fine wine trade, indicating new shifts in the fine wine space.

See langtons.com.au.

Yelland & Papps: Letting the vineyard do the talking

Following a surprise visit to Glenside's notorious Z Ward, where the South Australian National Trust was holding a wine fair in the spooky cells of the former mental asylum, guest contributor Roderick Eime met with Susan Yelland of boutique Barossa winemakers Yelland & Papps, where the pair were showcasing some of their delicious reds and whites. 

He asked Susan to highlight a couple of her favourite vintages, to which she said the philosophy behind Yelland & Papps wines is to let the vineyard speak for itself.

Their single-vineyard Stonewell Shiraz is deliberately crafted as a brighter, more expressive interpretation of Barossa shiraz. 

"We're probably trying to make a more expressive, fruit-driven, easier-drinking style of shiraz from the Barossa."

Whole-bunch fermentation builds fragrance and texture, while the use of only seasoned oak avoids masking the fruit, resulting in a lighter, more aromatic and approachable style that showcases the vineyard rather than the winemaking.

The winery's passion for Rhône varieties is equally evident in its grenache. 

"Grenache, we love grenache. We are very focused on Rhône-style varietals."

Sourced from a pristine 60-year-old vineyard on the sandy soils of Vine Vale, the fruit is harvested in two stages. 

The earlier pick contributes lifted aromatics and delicate Turkish Delight notes, while the later harvest brings structure, tannin and depth across the palate. Together they create a balanced, layered wine that reflects both the character of the old vines and the Barossa landscape.

Rather than chasing mass-market distribution, Yelland & Papps focuses on independent wine merchants and quality restaurants, where they believe wines with authenticity and a strong sense of place are most appreciated.

Michelin ranks wine estates

Michelin ranks restaurants around the world - and charges regions handsomely for the privilege. 

It has also started rating hotels - posing questions about the qualifications and the experience of its un-named judges. 

And now the Michelin guides are going further into the rankings business with the launch of Michel Grape, a "new distinction spotlighting wine estates and producers across different regions of the world".

Michelin says: With this new distinction, we provide wine lovers with a trusted benchmark."

The ratings system, launched in Burgundy before rolling out worldwide, covers three classifications.

Three Michelin grapes will be awarded to exceptional producers. Whatever the vintage, wine lovers can turn to the estate’s creations with complete confidence.

Two Michelin grapes will signify excellent producers who stand out as exceptional within their peer group and region for both quality and consistency.

One Michelin grapes will recognise very good producers who craft wines of character and style, especially in the best vintages.

There were no real surprises when the top names were revealed.

Those earning Three Michelin Grapes were Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Domaine Leroy, Domaine d’Auvenay, Cécile Tremblay, Dugat-Py, Roumier, Coche-Dury, Jean-Marc & Thomas Bouley and Hubert Lamy.

Vinexpo hangs its hat in Hong Kong

Hong Kong has beaten Singapore to be the permanent host city for major wine trade fair Vinexpo Asia. 

Event organisers Vinexposium announced that Vinexpo Asia will return to Hong Kong in 2027 from June 8-10 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC).

The move ends the alternating Hong Kong-Singapore format introduced after the Covid pandemic.

The event will now be held annually in Hong Kong, establishing a single, consistent meeting point for the wine and spirits industry in Asia and marking a new strategic cycle for Vinexpo Asia in the region.

"Hong Kong has been part of Vinexpo Asia's history since 1998 and remains one of the most relevant gateways to Asian markets for the wine and spirits industry,” says Rodolphe Lameyse, CEO of Comexposium's Food & Beverage Division

“Establishing Vinexpo Asia as an annual event in Hong Kong reflects Vinexposium's confidence in the city and supports Comexposium's broader food and beverage strategy in Asia.”

Building on nearly three decades of activity in Asia, Vinexposium says it is reinforcing its role in the region by providing the wine and spirits industry with a stable annual meeting point in Hong Kong. 

This evolution aims to offer greater continuity for international producers, buyers, importers, distributors and industry stakeholders across Asia.

Hong Kong's central position in Asia, as a gateway to mainland China and a platform closely connected to south-east Asia and the wider Asia-Pacific region, makes it a natural base from which to bring together the full spectrum of Asian markets, Vinexposium said in a media release.

Grace Ghazalé, International Events Director at Vinexposium, says the new annual format responds to the industry's need for greater stability, momentum and visibility in Asia. 

By establishing Vinexpo Asia in Hong Kong on a yearly basis, Vinexposium aims to offer exhibitors and visitors a clearer framework to build long-term relationships, plan their participation more effectively and support the continued development of trade across the region.

Mornington Peninsula wine pioneer remembered

The Mornington Peninsula wine community is this week mourning the death of pioneering winemaker and industry leader Nat White, who passed away peacefully after a long battle with illness.

Together with his wife Rosalie (with whom he is pictured above), White established Main Ridge Estate in 1975, helping lay the foundations for what would become one of Australia's most respected cool-climate wine regions.

A founding member of the Mornington Peninsula Vignerons Association and creator of the region's first licensed winery, he was known not only for his winemaking skill but also for his generosity, mentorship and willingness to support others.

Over five decades, White helped guide countless vineyard owners and winemakers, sharing knowledge freely and helping establish the collaborative culture for which the Mornington Peninsula wine community is known today.

Richard McIntyre of Moorooduc Estate recalled seeking Nat's help when preparing to make his first wines.

"I said, 'I have no idea how to make wine.' Nat said, 'I will hold your hand.' He did for many years."

Garry Crittenden of Crittenden Wines described Nat as the region's "acknowledged technical leader and founding father".

"Whenever I had a problem, I went straight to Nat - problem solved."

Martin Spedding of Ten Minutes By Tractor described Nat as "a giant in the story and development of Mornington Peninsula wine" and credited him with helping create the remarkable collegiate spirit that remains a defining characteristic of the region.

Nat White was awarded an Order of Australia Medal (OAM) in 2017 for significant service to the Australian wine industry.

He is survived by Rosalie, their children Dominic and Annalise, and their families.

A private cremation will be held, with a celebration of Nat's life to be announced at a later date.

Riesling Challenge winds up after 26 years

 

One of Australia's most respected wine competitions is no more. 

The Committee of the Canberra International Riesling Challenge has made the difficult decision to wind up the event after over a quarter of a century. 

The Riesling Challenge was founded in 2000, and between 2000 and 2025 a total of 24 Challenges were held. 

The peak number of entries in any year was 567 (2018) and the peak number of countries entering was nine countries (2019). 

It was, at its peak, the largest single variety wine show in the southern hemisphere. 

“Regrettably the increase in international airfreight and challenging economic conditions in the international and Australian wine industries post-Covid have significantly impacted entry levels, and despite our best efforts we have been unable to return to operating a revenue positive event," said James Service, the event chairman. 

"Accordingly, the committee has agreed that ending the Challenge is the only appropriate course available. 

“From the outset, the Challenge has benefited from well qualified and skilled judges, a strong and enthusiastic steward cohort, a professional management team, the support of the diplomatic community and generous and steadfast sponsors.

“With the support of the entrant wineries we have been highly successful in our stated aim of improving the quality of riesling available to consumers, and increasing consumer’s appreciation and understanding of riesling.” 

This man has just been given one of the best jobs in the wine world

A winemaker called Émilien Boutillat has just been awarded one of the most coveted jobs in the world of wine.

Boutillat will join Champagne Bollinger later this year as Cellar Master, a role that will see him entrusted with preserving and deepening the expression of the style and identity of the esteemed Champagne House, while guiding it through a new chapter.

Born and raised in Champagne, where his family has been established for generations, Boutillat joins Bollinger after experience at Château Margaux in Bordeaux, and Domaine de la Solitude in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. 

He has also has had stints in New Zealand (Mud House), the US (Peter Michael Winery), Chile (Viu Manent) and South Africa (La Motte).

He was Cellar Master of the Cattier and Armand de Brignac Houses, before joining Piper-Heidsieck in 2018, where he has served as Cellar Master until now.

“We are delighted to welcome Émilien to Champagne Bollinger," says Charles Armand de Belenet, managing director of Champagne Bollinger.

"His career, his exacting standards and his vision of winemaking will be invaluable assets in preserving and advancing the style of the House, while supporting its evolution in the next chapters of its history.

"On the eve of its Bicentenary, this appointment is fully aligned with the House’s ambition to prepare for the future while remaining faithful to the values, savoir faire and commitments that define its singularity.”

Boutillat describes joining Bollinger as a great honour.

"Its history, craftsmanship and commitments are unique strengths that will continue to shape its future," he says. "I look forward to being part of this collective endeavour, working alongside the teams to balance respect for tradition with openness to innovation."

Boutillat succeeds Denis Bunner, who was appointed chief winemaker in 2023.

* Founded in 1829 in Aÿ, at the heart of the Champagne region, Champagne Bollinger is a family-owned, independent producer.

A movie star, jalapenos and sauvignon blanc

The wine industry is alive with stupidity.

From 100- point scores to big companies destroying much-loved brands, to absurd restaurant mark-ups, it is self destructive to the max.

Not to forget an obsession with nolo "wines" that taste nothing like wine.

But there are also some very smart operators involved. 

What, then, to make of jalapeno sauvignon blanc?

This viral summer trend in the US involved dropping frozen jalapeño slices into a glass of chilled sauvignon blanc. It was huge on TikTok, I am reliably informed.

So, naturally, an actress and fashion icon has jumped into the fray, parlaying her "celebrity" wine status.

Sarah Jessica Parker, who has had a partnership with New Zealand wine producer Invivo for several years, is to release her own ‘Spicy Savvy B’.

So here comes Invivo X, SJP Spicy Jalapeño White Wine with Natural Flavor - to be launched in the US this month. And, no doubt, to Australia by next summer. 

"This is wine, made fun and reimagined for the way people drink now," says the website.

"Invivo has taken its crisp, tropical New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc base and naturally infused it with jalapeño’s natural flavor to create a new drop designed to be poured chilled, served over ice, or messed around with however you like."

It's not wine as we know it. But these folk have recognised that the drinks business is a fashion business. That's smart.

Now just wait for someone to give it a 100-point score.

A new red designed to be enjoyed chilled

There have been multiple attempts at launching an affordable Australian red wine designed for enjoying chilled.

Those with long memories will recall Cab Mac in the 1980s, while De Bortoli has a red called Chill Bill and there are several other "nouveau" styles from small producers.

Yalumba's Y Series recently launched Sunset Red - a new shiraz style that it describes as "bright, juicy and effortlessly drinkable".

It is a fun drink. I enjoyed a couple of glasses chilled with a Thai red duck curry. It would be a fun barbecue or picnic choice.

The Y Series team describes Sunset Red as "lighter, fresher and more expressive in style".

It is certainly fresh, uncomplicated and fun.

It is recommended to put it in the fridge for 20-30 minutes before serving. I'd give it a little more for a max chill factor.

Sunset Red is light bodied with bright berry flavours and just a hint of sweetness on the palate.

The Y Series 2025 Sunset Red is available in Dan Murphy’s stores nationally with an RRP of $15. 

I'm puzzled as to why it was released in winter - as it strikes me as a quintessential summer drink. Marketing departments eh?

Is your favourite wine brand about to be sold or dumped?

Penfolds is the jewel in the crown.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate and Coldstream Hills have been declared safe. Rouge Homme has been sold.

But what is the future for iconic Australian wine brands including Seppelt, Lindeman’s or Wolf Blass?  What about St Huberts' or 19 Crimes? 

That's all up in the air right now after owner Treasury Wine Estates (TWE) outlined plans to reshape its portfolio around “evolving consumer and customer needs” and to focus increased investment behind its strongest long-term growth opportunities.

The company said it will focus on Penfolds, Californian brand DAOU and New Zealand label Matua, which will be complemented by "regional heroes’ including Frank Family Vineyards, Beaulieu Vineyard and Stag's Leap in the US, along with Wynns Coonawarra, Squealing Pig, Pepperjack and Coldstream Hills. 

TWE said its goal is to become “a simpler and more focused luxury wine business” investing in fewer, stronger brands, while increasing its emphasis on lighter styles and no and low- alcohol wines". 

Sounds like following fashion to me.  

The restructure is expected to result in a significantly smaller TWE portfolio, from 76 brands possibly down to as few as 30. But it is not known which brands will be sold or dumped.

TWE chief executive officer Sam Fischer (above) said the company was building on strong foundations.

“We have some of the world’s most recognised wine brands, outstanding vineyards and winemaking assets, deep expertise from grape to glass, and strong customer relationships across global markets,” Fischer said.

“Wine continues to play an important role in consumers’ lives, but consumer preferences and market dynamics are changing.

“The future belongs to wine businesses that are more focused, agile and closely aligned to where consumers and customers are heading.”

Fischer said TWE’s new look would be designed around the trends shaping the future of global wine.

“Premiumisation remains a powerful long-term trend, with consumers increasingly choosing to drink less but better,” he said.

“At the same time, we’re also seeing strong growth in lighter styles, more relaxed social occasions and moderation trends, particularly among younger consumers.

“We’re reshaping Treasury Wine Estates to where we see the strongest long-term demand and growth opportunities in luxury red, luxury white, and more contemporary wine experiences.”

New range aims to make an impact in the sub-$20 wine segment

There is a new entry into the competitive sub-$20 wine bracket in Australia.

Newly-launched TERRA, designed for everyday drinking, comes from one of the most famous labels in Australia - McWillam's, which has been under the ownership of the Calabria Family Wine Group since 2021.

The collection of "modern, approachable" wines comprises Shiraz 2024, Chardonnay 2025, Pinot Noir 2025 and Sauvignon Blanc 2025 (all with an RRP of $19).

Scott McWilliam, sixth generation family member, says: “Consumers are drinking less wine and exploring more beverage options, so we must make wine feel relevant in everyday life again.

"That means innovating at the approachable, everyday level, removing formality and bringing wine back to the centre of the table.

“TERRA reflects how Australians are enjoying wine today - fresh, generous and made to be shared.

"With this range, we’re proud to bring McWilliam’s heritage to a new generation of wine drinkers in a way that feels more contemporary and relaxed. TERRA is all about taking the formality out of wine and bringing it back to everyday life, whether that’s a casual dinner, a long lunch or time around the table with friends.

"By focusing on approachability, versatility and pure enjoyment, we’re reconnecting wine with how people actually live and making it a natural part of more moments, not just special occasions."

All four are labelled “Wine of Australia” opening the way for multi-regional blending. 

TERRA has a distinctive pewter thumbprint on the label acting as a modern maker’s mark, a nod to the hands that have shaped McWilliam’s wines across six generations.

I’ve checked out all four wines. The presentation is excellent with the shiraz an outstandingly good buy.

It is a medium-bodied all-purpose red that is extremely food friendly.

The chardonnay and pinot noir also offer good drinking with the sauvignon blanc appealing to those who enjoy an overtly herbaceous style. 

Available now from major and select independent retailers nationally, and www.mcwilliams.com.au