Much-loved Australian wine industry veteran dies

Mick Morris, a much-loved veteran winemaker and and one of the Australian wine industry's most respected figures, has died, his family reported today.

Mick (Charles Henry) Morris OAM, was 98.

Over a lifetime dedicated to his craft, he made an enduring contribution to the evolution and success of the Australian wine industry.

Mick Morris started his first official vintage as winemaker in 1953, quickly becoming a pioneer of durif (petite sirah)  as a table wine varietal, and was known for his world-class fortified wines.

His influence extended far beyond Rutherglen, where Morris Wines is based, helping shape Australian wine's reputation both at home and around the world.

"For all his achievements and honours, what those who knew Mick will remember most was the man himself," his son David and grandson Madden said in a media release.

"Mick was a fine, humble, immensely talented and extraordinarily generous person.

"He shared his knowledge freely, encouraged countless people throughout their careers, and remained deeply committed to his family, community and industry. His legacy will live on not only through the wines he helped create and the industry he helped shape, but through the many lives he touched along the way."

A memorial service to celebrate his life will be held on Tuesday, September 1. 

A wine region hotel where old meets new

Rutherglen is a small town in north-east Victoria that draws wine lovers from around Australia to sample its bold reds and legendary fortifieds.

When I lasted visited - a few year ago now - the Victoria Hotel was just another old pub on the main street.

Built in 1868, it had history on its side, but looked in need of some care and attention. 

The Victoria began as a modest wooden building before being transformed into a two-storey brick landmark by the magnificently named Shadrack Platts Gollings in 1893.

With its heritage features -including Rutherglen’s original mortuary tucked just beyond the carriage gates - The Victoria proudly holds Victoria’s longest continually operating hotel licence.

In 2021, Kate and Matt Halpin became the custodians of this historic landmark.

The couple returned to their regional origins, adopting the philosophy of "city style meets country soul."

Their vision was to honour The Victoria’s heritage while transforming it into a modern destination that celebrates connection, community, and the spirit of the High Country.

Boy, have they succeeded.



After a multi-million-dollar restoration, they have managed to preserve the hotel’s historic character while introducing contemporary comforts. So much so that last year The Victoria was named ‘Best Redeveloped Hotel in Victoria’ by the Australian Hotels Association.

When I stayed last month in one of the 14 impressive and spacious suites, the popular restaurant (open seven days for lunch and dinner) offering award-winning regional cuisine was jumping, even on a chilly midweek night.

So think elevated, flame-focused dining right on the main street (make sure to try the Pillow bread and the croquettes) just a short drive from cellar doors including my hosts at Morris, All Saints, Campbells, Stanton and Killen, Scion, Pfeiffer and other desirable destinations.

The main street is home to Thousand Pound wine bar, boutiques, cafés and the legendary Parker Pies shop.



For anyone arriving late, or checking out early, there is keyless experience with contactless check-in. The technology works!

The suites feature air-conditioning and heating, flat-screen TV, Hunter Lab bathroom amenities, good sized fluffy towels, tea and coffee-making facilities, a phone charger that works, free high-speed wifi, a bar fridge, off-street guest parking and bath robes and slippers.

There is a lively bar, the restaurant and several shared rooms like the clubby The Library.

* Rutherglen is Around 30 minutes drive from the regional hubs of Albury/Wodonga, Wangaratta and Yarrawonga, The Victoria is an ideal base from which to explore surrounding heritage townships like Beechworth, Milawa, Chiltern, Wahgunyah and Corowa. Or venture a little further afield for a day trip to the King Valley, Alpine snowfields or picturesque Bright & Myrtleford, located less than 90 minutes away.

You can book direct at https://www.victoriahotelrutherglen.com.au/ 

# The writer was a guest of Morris of Rutherglen and Casella Family Brands 

Two of Australia's storied family wineries celebrate together

Two of Australia's leading winemaking families got together this month to celebrate a decade of working together.

The Morris family from Rutherglen, in north-east Victoria, has been making bold reds and fortified wines since 1859. By 1885, Morris was reported to be the biggest wine producer in the southern hemisphere. 

Current winemaker Madden Morris is the sixth generation to hold the reins after taking over from his father David in the company's 165th year. He describes the family wines as "legacy in a glass". 

Casella Family Brands, from Yenda in the NSW Riverina, is Australia's largest family-owned beverage company. 

Founded in 1969, although the family sold grapes for decades before that, Casella is best known for selling over 10 million cases of [yellow tail] around the world each year and also owns labels including Peter Lehmann and Baileys of Glenrowan.

A decade ago, French conglomerate Pernod Richard Winemaker, the then owners of the Morris business, were keen to sell, and the Morris family was anxious to buy the business back - but lacked the cash.

Up stepped Casella boss John Casella, a long-time family friend, to acquire the rights.

In July 2016, Morris of Rutherglen was back in Australian hands, and the family regained control.

David Morris and John Casella 

David Morris told the 10th anniversary celebration how the Casellas had come to his family's aid.

“It was a very devastating decision that they [Pernod Ricard] made," he said. "It was the final nail that they could put into our coffin. We were making good sales, we were 70% table and sparkling wine and only 30% fortified wine at that point. We were a very small winery in their portfolio.

“When they made the decision, it came about very quickly, and they gave us a couple of weeks to find a buyer. Then we managed to get the deposit in the day before [the deadline]. It is now amazing to be back in family stewardship and have some longevity back in the brand.

“We went from devastating news to fantastic within about a month.”

Morris said Casella was one of the first friends he called, with the result that the historic winery returned to family stewardship and secure its long-term future as a partnership with the Cassela family.

“Morris is an Australian icon and we couldn’t allow it to be lost," John Casella told the event. "And to see where we are today, with the barrels in the cellar, this beautiful cellar door, none of this would have existed."

Over the past decade, Casella Family Brands has invested in the Morris of Rutherglen business, building on its cellar door offering and resuming long-lost distilling operations to produce world-class whiskies made by Scottish-born head distiller Darren Peck.

Morris is now a triple-threat destination offering wines, fortifieds and spirits. 

Its muscats and topaques are regarded among the best in the world and the Morrises have long championed the big red grape variety durif (aka petite sirah), which Madden Morris describes as "shiraz on steroids".

Guests at the event also enjoyed a tour of the Morris distillery - and the still built in 1933 - as well as a spectacular display of barrel charring. 

Visitors should not miss the aromatic - and atmospheric - old cellars.

 
# The writer was a guest of Morris of Rutherglen and Casella Family Wines.

A barrel of fun as iconic cellar door gets a makeover

One of the first - and best-known - cellar doors in Australia is about to re-open.

McWilliam’s Wines has just announced the return of its refreshed Hanwood cellar door, one of the most popular tourism attractions in the Riverina.

The facility has undergone extensive upgrades to its interiors and will offer a range of new wine experiences from Friday.

McWilliam’s barrel-shaped cellar door was first opened in 1973, and this year celebrates its 50th anniversary.

The facility's new owners, the Calabria family, have worked with a team of local designers and suppliers during the past 12 months to oversee the renovations.

The Hanwood Estate vines were first planted in 1913 and have been a key producer of fruit for fortified wines ever since.

 

“Many people associate the name McWilliam’s with the barrel and the many fond memories of rich fortified tastings inside it," said second-generation winemaker and managing director Bill Calabria AM.

"The building has become a landmark in the Riverina and was a hub for much of the great history behind the McWilliam’s name. This reopening feels like a new era for us and a great opportunity to reconnect with friends and visitors with some incredible new wine experiences.”

While maintaining the iconic barrel-stave shell, extensive upgrades have transformed the interiors into
a modern, lodge-style spot in which to sip wines.

Cosy deluxe leather lounges and a long 16-seater table create space for up to 35 guests.

There is also a private tasting room; the ‘Friar Room', which pays tribute to the winery's retro novelty Friar mascot.

The tasting menu features a range of aged fortified, and limited cellar door releases.

The McWilliam's Barrel is located on Jack McWilliam Road, Hanwood, NSW, and will
be open on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays from 11am-4pm.

Wine enthusiasts are encouraged to secure their tasting experiences in advance by booking online at mcwilliams.com.au