Mornington Peninsula wine pioneer remembered

The Mornington Peninsula wine community is this week mourning the death of pioneering winemaker and industry leader Nat White, who passed away peacefully after a long battle with illness.

Together with his wife Rosalie (with whom he is pictured above), White established Main Ridge Estate in 1975, helping lay the foundations for what would become one of Australia's most respected cool-climate wine regions.

A founding member of the Mornington Peninsula Vignerons Association and creator of the region's first licensed winery, he was known not only for his winemaking skill but also for his generosity, mentorship and willingness to support others.

Over five decades, White helped guide countless vineyard owners and winemakers, sharing knowledge freely and helping establish the collaborative culture for which the Mornington Peninsula wine community is known today.

Richard McIntyre of Moorooduc Estate recalled seeking Nat's help when preparing to make his first wines.

"I said, 'I have no idea how to make wine.' Nat said, 'I will hold your hand.' He did for many years."

Garry Crittenden of Crittenden Wines described Nat as the region's "acknowledged technical leader and founding father".

"Whenever I had a problem, I went straight to Nat - problem solved."

Martin Spedding of Ten Minutes By Tractor described Nat as "a giant in the story and development of Mornington Peninsula wine" and credited him with helping create the remarkable collegiate spirit that remains a defining characteristic of the region.

Nat White was awarded an Order of Australia Medal (OAM) in 2017 for significant service to the Australian wine industry.

He is survived by Rosalie, their children Dominic and Annalise, and their families.

A private cremation will be held, with a celebration of Nat's life to be announced at a later date.

Cool event to showcase cool-climate wines

Lovers of cool-climate wines might want to put Piers & Pinots into their calendar. 

 
Twelve producers from the Mornington Peninsula will be showcased at the immersive afternoon event on May 2. 

The venue will be Blairgowrie Yacht Squadron and offers the chance to meet some of the talented winemakers behind some famous labels, offering insights into how the region’s maritime influences from Western Port, Port Phillip Bay and Bass Strait define the local wines. 

There will be over 40 wines to taste, along with a charcuterie and cheese station. 

Detailed tasting notes will be provided and there will also be a live acoustic singer-songwriter performance (somewhat distracting I would have thought). 

The event will run from 2pm-5pm and tickets are $120 per person (includes GST, plus booking fee)

Participating wineries are Baillieu, Dexter, Elgee Park Wines, Foxey’s Hangout, Handpicked Wines, Kyberd Hills, Ocean Eight, Portsea Estate, Pt Leo Estate, Rahona Valley, Stonier and Yal Yal Estate.

See www.mpwine.com.au

A taste of South America coming to the Mornington Peninsula

The Mornington Peninsula wine region is set to gain a new restaurant with a distinct Argentine accent. 

Brasa is a new sister venue at Montalto Winery that will celebrate South American-style asado cooking over wood-fired grills. 

Led by a chef (still to be confirmed) who has worked with Argentine grill maestro Francis Mallmann, the menu will focus on premium meats, seafood and seasonal produce, much of it sourced from Montalto’s own gardens, served in a relaxed, share-style format. 

The name Brasa means embers in Spanish and the restaurant will aim to replicate the parrillas of Argentina, particularly Mendoza. 

Slow cooking over embers develops deep, natural flavours. In Mendoza that can include cooking over vine cuttings. 

The menu will be designed for sharing with large cuts of meat carved and placed at the centre of the table, encouraging guests to pass plates, pour wine and gather over food. 

Montalto is a member of Ultimate Winery Experiences Australia.

See https://montalto.com.au/pages/brasa-by-montalto

New look and menu for a pioneering vineyard restaurant

 

An old favourite will have a brand new look when wine lovers visit Crittenden Estate on the Mornington Peninsula this summer.

The Crittenden family has been a leader in the wine and tourism space for over four decades, with Garry Crittenden a pioneer of planting Italian grapes in Australia. 

Now the Crittendens have transformed one of Victoria's most beautiful vineyard - and waterfront -  restaurants with a new chef in charge. 

Crittenden Restaurant, first opened in 1988, and is now back completely under the control of the founding family. 

Garry and and the late Margaret Crittenden helped create Mornington’s wine scene. When Garry planted his first vines in Dromana, he doubled the Peninsula’s wine plantings overnight, and a decade later, Margaret’s idea to offer food kickstarted one of the region’s very first winery restaurants.

Their children, Zoe and Rollo Crittenden, have grown into the business: Rollo as a very talented winemaker and GM; Zoe as director of marketing. 

When Margaret fell ill 20 years ago, the family leased her restaurant to an outside operator. Last year, Zoe and Rollo brought the business back and embarked on a complete ground-up redevelopment that cost over $1 million. 

In charge is executive Chef Brunno Melo, a Brazilian-born, Le Cordon Bleu–trained culinary leader with over 15 years of experience transforming kitchens and dining destinations, who was previously at Audrey's.

His menus celebrate local, seasonal produce. 

The menu aims to balance bold flavours with accessible dishes, featuring Josper-grilled swordfish with smoked maple chimichurri, and a half roast chicken with harissa and chargrilled corn. Both sound delicious. Or perhaps a Raven’s Creek free-range, dry-aged Tomahawk pork chop. 

Ingredients from neighbours like Torello Farm feature across the menu. 

“It’s a ground-up renovation and a complete remake and rethink on the space… very much in keeping with the style of food and, of course, the wine that we want to present to visitors,” says Rollo Crittenden. 

Guests can enjoy a four-course feast paired with estate wines, graze on small plates of fresh seafood on the deck, or share a charcuterie platter under the umbrellas on the terrace. 

Something for everyone. 

“This new space definitely reflects the way we want people to experience food and wine at Crittenden today,” adds Rollo. 

“We’re honoured to continue Mum’s legacy and her commitment to genuine hospitality,” says Zoe Crittenden. "Our new space is both modern and welcoming - designed to showcase fresh, thoughtful dishes that pair beautifully with our cool-climate wines.”

The Crittenden cellar door next door remains the home of the family’s excellent pinot noir, chardonnay, and savagnin, while the Crittenden Lakeside Villas offer waterside retreats among the vines.

I haven't visited the new eatery yet - but it is certainly on my list over the next few months. I have very fond memories of previous visits. 

Crittenden Restaurant serves lunch seven days and dinner on Friday and Saturday evenings.

See www.crittendenwines.com.au

Mornington Peninsula favourite returns after five years

 

A favourite Mornington Peninsula destination for wine and food lovers is back after a five-year absence.

Ten Minutes by Tractor, one of the leading wine producers in the region and a member of Ultimate Winery Experiences, has announced the return of Petit Tracteur, a familiar name with a refreshed identity. 

Petit Tracteur closed five years ago during a major refurbishment of the venue's main restaurant. 

Earlier this year, a pop-up offered guests a brief return of the bistro - and the enthusiastic response made it clear to owner Martin Spedding that Petit Tracteur held a special place in people's memories.

Reinstated as a permanent offering and serving lunch from Thursday-Sunday, Petit Tracteur now sits within the cellar door, complementing the flagship restaurant. 

The menu aims to blend classic French technique with the produce and personality of the Mornington Peninsula, presenting a contemporary interpretation of bistro dishes: think confit salmon with wasabi and dill, and twice-baked cheese soufflé with roasted hazelnuts.

The dishes are designed to complement the winery's chardonnays and pinot noirs. 

See https://www.tenminutesbytractor.com.au/

 

Joint wine venture aiming for high marks

The d'Anna family never sits still.

The d’Annas have been selling wine and gourmet products to Melbourne residents for over 60 years at their Boccaccio Cellars store in Balwyn.

The family recently added a new wine bar/bistro, Enoteca Boccaccio, which quickly gained an Age Good Food Guide hat.

The family also owns the much-admired Hoddle Creek Estate winery in the Yarra Valley, producing superb-value wines under labels including 1er Yarra Valley, Hoddle Creek, Wickhams Road, along with several stand-alone offerings.

Hoddles Creek Estate was established in 1997 when the D'Anna family decided to establish a vineyard on the property that has been in the family since 1960.

All the wines are single vineyard, estate grown, and are made in a 300-tonne winery.

Just to make sure there are no dull moments, the d'Anna family is also involved in a small-batch DML VIN venture: D’Anna Middleton Lewis, with Sam Middleton and Jordan Lewis.

The brand focuses on single-site regional pinot noir with the first vintage being released in June 2019. The new 2022 releases are a contrasting pair from the Yarra Valley and the Mornington Peninsula, the Yarra wine is more ethereal, the Mornington offering more sturdy, and savoury.

The Mornington pinot is a blend from two vineyards on the Peninsula, one situated in Balnarring and the other in Merricks, while the Yarra wine comes from a well-regarded upper Yarra Valley vineyard. A fascinating contrast in styles.

Four-time AFL premiership player Jordan Lewis, ex Hawthorn and Melbourne, and his wife Lucy developed a love for wine when they spent time in Florence.



Upon returning to Australia, he wanted to explore the world of wine a little bit deeper. Through good fortune he met the d'Anna boys over social media and a friendship through wine was born.



Sam, meanwhile, is a third-generation winemaker from the Middleton family and has held the role of head winemaker at highly renowned Mount Mary since 2011.

His background includes stints at Coldstream Hills and Dominique Portet, as well as working in Burgundy.

Three different inputs; two stylish wines.

For more info see DML VIN

Meet the icon winemaker who refuses to retire

Garry Crittenden has been a hugely influential player in the Australian wine industry over multiple decades.

He was one of the pioneers in the Mornington Peninsula, an early champion of alternative grape varieties, and one of the visionaries who planted Tasmania's icon Tolpuddle Vineyard.

One thing that Garry is not so good at, however, is retirement.

Crittenden handed over the reins of Crittenden Estate to his son Rollo and daughter Zoe several years ago, but he still can't resist making at least one wine each year.

His passion project, which sees him produce a small batch Mornington pinot noir each year, is now in its seventh year.

Each vintage has been a chance for Garry to not only showcase his winemaking expertise but also to tap into his love of art - with the various releases adorned by eye-catching labels.

Garry was kind enough to send me a vertical of the wines, and very impressive they are, too.

From the first “The Big Chair” to the new release - the 2023 Air Like Wine Pinot Noir ($55) - they are all the works of an artist. There are vintage variations, sure, but these are creations that belong to the same collection. 

"When I moved from Melbourne to the Mornington Peninsula 60 years ago my profoundest impression was the bright impact of Mother Nature, forever bountiful," Crittenden recalled in a recent note to me - we have known each for well over three decades. 

.

"The air was fresh and clean like a good wine, “air like wine”, the beaches a joy to walk on and the hinterland almost eternally green. I didn’t take me long to seek to indulge my passion in wine and plant some grapes.

"The rest as they say is history."

So there you have it. A man who has had a profound impact on wine history in both Tasmania and on the Mornington Peninsula. 

Crafted from estate-grown fruit, these cool-climate pinots pinot noirs offer a glimpse of the artistic mind behind the labels. 

See https://www.crittendenwines.com.au/

Astutely-judged pinot noirs from a micro producer

Back in August 2005 I was contacted by Kevin Bell and Tricia Byrnes from a start-up wine business called Hurley Vineyard at Balnarring on the Mornington Peninsula.

I was writing a wine column for the Sun-Herald in Sydney at the time and they were looking for suggestions for possible outlets for their first vintage.

Five Way Cellars purchased three cases, I recall; their first Sydney order.

I didn't know it, but Kevin Bell was at that time a judge of the Supreme Court of Victoria. He was promoted to the Office of the Order of Australia in the 2024 King's Birthday Honours List. 

Byrnes was a distinguished legal practitioner, now a barrister and nationally accredited mediator at the Victorian Bar.

I thought then that their Burgundy-inspired pinot noir wines, made in minute quantities, were outstanding.

For two decades now I have been lucky enough to follow their vinous journey. And I'm pleased to report their 2022 vintage releases still charm and beguile.

The bad news is that the trio of 2022 releases has already sold out at cellar door. The good news is that some is still available in retail land. 

The 2022 releases are the Hurley Vineyard 2022 Lodestone Pinot Noir ($110), the Hurley Vineyard 2022 Hommage Pinot Noir ($110), and the Hurley Vineyard 2022 Garamond Pinot Noir ($130). 

No estate blend was released for this vintage but the three wines all reflect Bell and Byrnes' obsession attention to detail and quality. Quite how they find the time I do not know. 

In previous years my favourite has wavered between the Hommage and the Garamond, but this time around it was the super-smooth Lodestone that most took my fancy with its minerality and completeness. 

The velvety Hommage is tighter knit and potentially longer lived, while the Garamond is the most complex of the trio, a little bit of a show off in its youth. 

All three wines are definitely Burgundian accented, however, with intensity matched by purity and balance.  

The new releases are the 22nd vintage from vines that are 24 years old (with the exception of a  small part of Lodestone that is 18 years old). 251 cases were made of each of the Hommage and Lodestone and 277 dozen of the Garamond.

"Vintage 2022 was outstanding in quality and small in quantity," Bell reports, which suggests speed might be crucial for would-be buyers.

For details see www.hurleyvineyard.com.au  

          

     

Mornington Peninsula to warm up over winter

Been meaning to visit the Mornington Peninsula wine region in Victoria? 

The Mornington Peninsula Winter Wine Weekend might be the excuse you've been looking for. 

The four-day celebration offers "a new look, new food and new events" from June 7-10. 

Key events include ‘The Winemaker's Truffle Dinner’, bringing together 13 wineries at The Village Hall at the Red Hill Showgrounds, each winery hosting a table with wines chosen to match dishes featuring new-season truffles. 

Winemakers will be bringing their rare back vintages, cellar selections and large format bottles. 

Wineries featured include Paringa Estate, Montalto, Stonier, Quealy Wines, Main Ridge Estate, Handpicked Wines, Crittenden Wines, Ocean Eight, Lindenderry, Rahona Valley, Red Hill Estate, Tar & Roses and Yabby Lake.

Saturday’s Winter Wine Festival is the weekend's showcase; featuring 40 wineries pouring their new vintages and special releases all under one roof. 

The Village Green at the festival will feature new food partners including the Long Paddock Raclette Bar, Red Gum BBQ – and Pinchy’s Lobster Bar. 

“We are excited to welcome wine lovers back to the Mornington Peninsula for another incredible Winter Wine Weekend,” said Olivia Barrie, CEO of Mornington Peninsula Wine. 

“This year’s program has a number of new opportunities to experience an incredible array of wines and food from our talented makers. 

"Whether you’re a seasoned wine connoisseur or a newcomer to the world of wine, there’s something for everyone to enjoy.”

See https://morningtonpeninsulawine.com.au/winter-wine-weekend

Pamper yourself with a Mornington Peninsula treat

So you really want to celebrate summer in style?

How about a collaboration between Mornington Peninsula winery Ten Minutes by Tractor and Alba Thermal Springs & Spa in conjunction with Ultimate Winery Experiences.

A new Summer Serenity package, available until the end of February, starts starts with a glass of Ten Minutes by Tractor wine as you bathe in the restorative Alba geothermal springs.

You can then enjoy an indulgent tasting menu at the 10 Minutes by Tractor restaurant, featuring fresh seasonal produce paired with award-winning wines. Learn more at bit.ly/SummerSerenity-10xT

The package is available on Fridays and Saturdays starting from 3pm at Alba Thermal Springs & Spa. The cost is $460 per person (minimum two people).

The inclusions are a bathing experience at Alba Thermal Springs & Spa, a glass of Ten Minutes by Tractor Rosé at Thyme Restaurant, located in Alba Thermal Springs & Spa, the tasting menu at Ten Minutes by Tractor two hatted restaurant paired with wine to match each course.

New-look Stonier snaps up talented Grounds

Stonier Wines on the Mornington Peninsula has claimed a coup with the appointment of Julian Grounds as technical director to oversee the winery and vineyard under its new ownership.

West Australian-born Grounds, who will have equity in the business, has spent the last five vintages at leading New Zealand producer Craggy Range, where he was chief winemaker. He has been keen to return to Australia. 

Well-credentialed Grounds has had stints in Burgundy, Margaret River, Central Otago and Oregon and was senior winemaker at Giant Steps in the Yarra Valley, before returning to Margaret River to join McHenry Hohnen as chief winemaker in early 2017.

Later that year, he was named Dux of the Len Evans Tutorial, before heading to Hawke's Bay.

Circe Wines, owned by three families, acquired Stonier from Accolade Wines in the middle of last year. Former chief winemaker Justin Purser will pursue his own project in Beechworth and work as a consultant.  

Co-owner Aaron Drummond - who worked with Grounds at Craggy Range - also reports a new look to the Stonier cellar door, with a new fireplace and new seating. Outside there are now heaters and wind-proof blinds.

Also new is a providore fridge "with the best local cheese, breads and charcuterie".

Millers delivers fresh bread every weekend, but and will also be making focaccias to match the wines.

Drummond reports: "In the vineyard, our organic farming roll out is going really well and already the vineyard is looking visibly healthier.

"As part of this organic regime we are now turning the soil undervine rather than spraying chemicals to kill weeds. We are big believers that great wine is grown in the vineyard, and with all of the work we are doing on soil health, I really feel this will translate nicely in the coming vintages."

Croser to showcase cool-climate credentials of the Adelaide Hills

The wine industry in Australia can be a parochial business, so kudos to an event in Victoria that is to put a spotlight on the wines of the Adelaide Hills.

For the first time, the International Cool Climate Wine Show on the Mornington Peninsula will showcase a wine region at its public tasting at the Rosebud Country Club on July 22 - and the cool-climate Adelaide Hills has been given the honour.

As part of the showcase, veteran Australian vigneron Brian Croser AO will present a masterclass on the emerging regions, focusing on its diverse topography; comparing its climate to famous French wine regions; and hosting a tasting of five star Adelaide Hills wines.

“Much of South Australia’s winemaking fame has been rooted in warm regions of Barossa and McLaren Vale, so it’s understandable why many sommeliers look first to Victoria and Tasmania for their cool-climate Australian wine selections," Croser says.

"Yet, when one looks at the relevant heat summation data, even the warmest parts of the Adelaide Hills are as cool as Bordeaux and Upper Rhone, and the cooler sites are comparable to Burgundy and Chablis.

"The Adelaide Hills firmly deserves its international cool-climate status.

"Having said that, Adelaide Hills is a diverse region, so I’ll be talking about which areas are
best for growing certain cool-climate varieties, and I’ll be proving those points strongly with
five exemplary wines as examples.

"These include DAOSA Blanc de Blancs Sparkling 2018, Geoff Weaver Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Tapanappa Tiers Chardonnay 2021, Ashton Hills Reserve Pinot Noir 2021, and Shaw + Smith Balhannah Vineyard Shiraz 2020.”

See https://www.internationalcoolclimatewineshow.com/upcoming-events

Alex Trescowthick, President of the Adelaide Hills Wine Region, who will also be attending
the event says: “We greatly appreciate this opportunity to showcase our cool-climate credentials among our peers. Adelaide Hills is somewhat the ‘new-kid-on-the-block’ of cool-climate wine regions because its modern winemaking history only began in the late 1970s.

"Brian Croser was at the forefront of that vision by being the first to plant chardonnay in Piccadilly Valley back then. So it’s wonderful to have him present this masterclass which is borne from 43 years of expertise in the Adelaide Hills.”

Brian Croser has been a leading figure in the Australian wine industry since Moses was a boy.

His winemaking legacy includes the names of Croser and Petaluma, and his Tapanappa wines and he still lives on his original Tiers vineyard in the Adelaide Hills.

See https://tapanappa.com.au/our-story/brian-croser-ao/#

Back to the future at Stonier Wines

New owners are taking iconic Mornington Peninsula winemaker Stonier back to its roots.

Stonier was a family business when founded by Brian Stonier in 1978 and it is now back in family ownership after over 20 years as a corporate entity.

New owner Circe Wines is operated by three local families: the Drummond, McLeod and Thickins families.

Aaron Drummond, previously general manager of New Zealand star winery Craggy Range, is part of the group that acquired the winery, vineyard, and brand, from Accolade Wines in December last year and changes are already in place.

"Stonier is a pioneer and icon of the Mornington Peninsula and we are honoured to be its new custodians." Drummond says.

"I grew up on the Peninsula and Brian Stonier’s grandchildren were friends of mine. I have immense respect for Brian’s ambition and for what he achieved. After working all around the world in fine wine it is an incredible opportunity to finally come home and work with another iconic producer.

"Our vision for Stonier is quite simple. We are going back 20 years to Brian’s original ambition of cementing Stonier as one of Australia’s great fine wine producers. To do this we are investing in our farming, our people, and ensuring that nothing gets in the way of quality.

“We all have plenty of experience in the wine industry and are passionate about this as a long term, world class, family orientated fine wine project.” 

There is a new team in place with Justin Purser having joined Stonier as chief winemaker in 2022 after a decade at Best’s Great Western, while on the vineyard side viticulturalist Tim Brown has experience with pinot noir at places like Bindi and Place of Changing Winds.

Handpicked Wines does things a little differently

 

The Handpicked Wines operation is very different to other Australian wine producers. 

For a start, Handpicked sources fruit from vineyards across the country - from the Barossa to Tasmania. 

Owner William Dong and winemaker Peter Dillon follow environmentally sustainable principles and sell many of their wines through their city centre cellar doors in Sydney and Melbourne rather than through more traditional avenues. 

Dong purchased Handpicked's first vineyard - the Capella Vineyard on the Mornington Peninsula (above) - a decade ago. 

That anniversary is being marked by the release of four 2021 vintage wines across its the Collection and Single Vineyard ranges.

In the past year, Capella Vineyard has achieved ‘Certified Member’ status from Sustainable Winegrowing Australia (SWA) and Organic Certification from the National Association for Sustainable Agriculture Australia (NASAA). 

“For the better part of a decade, we have researched, trialled and enacted intense regenerative farming practices in the vineyard and surrounding natural habitats that comprise the Capella Vineyard site." says chief winemaker Dillon. 

"We’ve done this to deliver the purest, most expressive fruit possible and give our vines the best chance of being around for generations to come. 

“While I’m proud of the certification for the site, I’m even more excited by seeing Capella teeming with life - down to the highly active soils the vines grow in.”

Capella Vineyard is a small, ultra-premium vineyard site with 5.2 hectares of pinot noir and 1.6 hectares of chardonnay. 

Dong has subsequently purchased a further five vineyards in Yarra Valley, Barossa and Tasmania but says Capella remains the spiritual home of Handpicked's winemaking operations.

The new-release wines include the Collection Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay 2021 ($49.99) and the Collection 2021 Mornington Pinot Noir ($59.99).

The new Capella Vineyard Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay 2021 ($69.99) is from just two blocks - while two blocks also provided the fruit for the Capella Vineyard Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2021 ($89.99). 

My wife was a big fans of the pinots, describing them as "stylish and sophisticated" while my personal preference was for the chardonnays: both lean and mineraly with gunflint characters and with cool-climate food friendliness. 

See www.handpickedwines.com.au.

How and where to create your own bespoke spirits

Looking for a last-minute Christmas present for a spirits lover?

How about a gin or spiced brandy masterclass at Bass & Flinders Distillery on the Mornington Peninsula?

Guests are invited to roll up their sleeves and create their own bespoke spirit with guidance from one of Bass & Flinders' botanical advisors.

The classes include product tastings and the chance to create your own 500ml bottle of gin or spiced brandy to take home and impress friends.

Participants will learn about the history and product processes of distilling in small groups and taste their finished product with a fruit and cheese board.

The gin recipe is kept on file so customers can re-order their own gin to enjoy at home.

Bookings and gift vouchers (starting from $165 for brandy and $175 for gin) are available at bassandflindersdistillery.com.

Another option is the at-home gin masterclass experience that focuses on new flavours and aromas, distinctly different from masterclasses held on-site at the distillery.

The Native Botanicals Gin Masterclass Kit includes a range of individually flavoured spirits, also known as distillates, all at 40% ABV, 10 x 15ml jars of native Australian distillates, 15 ml of Coriander distillate, two bottles each with 35ml of juniper distillate, and aroma and flavour wheel, a dried botanicals test tube, a syringe and a tasting booklet, an instruction sheet with tips and tricks, a video tutorial and a 200ml bottle of tonic water. Also included is a 500ml bottle of your own bespoke gin which you will receive within approximately two weeks of finalising your recipe. 

The at-home kit costs $185.

Bass & Flinders is a family-owned and run distillery constantly developing new styles of gins, brandies and liqueurs.  

Bass & Flinders also has a wide range of spirits for sale, including an Eau de Vie, Ochre five-year-old brandy and gins, and hosts gin-inspired high teas.    

New chief winemaker named at Kooyong and Port Phillip Estate

Talented Tim Perrin has been named as the new chief winemaker of Kooyong and Port Phillip Estate on the Mornington Peninsula. 

Perrin, who joins from Oakridge in the Yarra Valley, will take over from long-time winemaker Glen Hayley, who is leaving the role and departing Australia to pursue other interests. 

Prior to this appointment, Perrin worked as senior winemaker under David Bicknell at Oakridge for seven years, making a significant contribution to the success of the winemaking program there. 

Managing director Marco Gjergja said: "This appointment will enable Tim to build on his knowledge and allow him to bring his talents to Kooyong and Port Phillip Estate, evolving our winemaking in line with our family’s vision."

Perrin said he is looking forward "to building on the legacy of an iconic wine business and propelling it forward into the future to continued success". 

"We believe Tim’s focus, expertise and talent will ensure our family wine business upholds and enhances its reputation as one of the country’s finest boutique chardonnay and pinot noir producers." Gjerga said.

"Following the tough conditions that our business, region and industry have faced over the past three years and the extreme challenges associated with Covid-19, it was inevitable that a few of us would make some life-changing decisions. 

"It was with feelings of sadness, gratitude and respect that I received Glen Hayley’s resignation.

"Over his time with us, Glen’s focus, expertise and talent have been instrumental in raising the quality of our wine. He has always approached his role with total commitment, integrity, enthusiasm and passion. We wish Glen all the best with his future endeavours overseas and look forward to raising a glass to celebrate the 13-year association that we have enjoyed."

Good to see a departing winemaker acknowledged so warmly, Hayley did a great job after taking over from the esteemed Sandro Moselle.  

Perrin will commence as chief winemaker at the beginning of 2023. 

He has worked in California, at Golden State Vintners, as well as in Coonawarra, Yenda, near Griffith, and with Jim Chatto at McWilliams Wines from 2012 to 2015.

So you think you could organise a piss up in a brewery?

 

So you've always dreamed of owning and operating a craft brewery?

How about one on the beautiful Mornington Peninsula with a proven track record over two decades?

The Red Hill Brewery, one of Australia's pioneering small brewers, was this week placed on the market by Karen and Dave Golding, who have operated the business for 22 years.

Red Hill Brewery has a local focus with a relaxed environment where visitors enjoy good beer and food.

“As our family have grown up, and our business matured, we are looking toward our future and think after all this time we have a few more goals in our lives to look forward to," the Goldings said on LinkedIn.

"Hopefully, a semi-retirement and travelling is on the cards for our future!

“We are proud of the business we have created and hope to be able to find new owners that will be passionate custodians of the craft of great beer and to be part of the beautiful Mornington Peninsula community and environment.”

The sale of the property and business is being handled by Kay & Burton.
https://lnkd.in/gU3K6dR2

Meet a wine man who was ahead of his time

It is 40 years since Mornington Peninsula wine industry pioneer Garry Crittenden, along with family and friends, planted two hectares of vines in one weekend at Dromana and doubled the total amount of vines planted on the peninsula.

Today, of course, the Mornington Peninsula is regarded as one of Australia's premier cool-climate vineyard regions, known around the world for the quality of its pinot noir and chardonnay.

Earlier this month the Crittenden family celebrated 40 years of their involvement in wine on the Mornington Peninsula and reflecting on the dedication of founders Garry and and the late Margaret Crittenden, who died a couple of years ago.

"Why 40 years?" asks my old friend Garry. "Well as I’m in my 80th year now its statistically unlikely that I’ll be around to do 50."



To mark the milestone, Crittenden Estate has released a special pinot noir (above).

When I first started writing about wines in the 1980s, Garry Crittenden was waxing lyrical about not only the Mornington Peninsula, but also the huge potential for Italian grape varieties in Australia.

He was right on both counts.

Today, Crittenden Estate, as the business is now known, is still a family affair and is run by winemaking son Rollo and his sister Zoe.

Garry Crittenden was the first winemaker in Australia to commercialise Italian wine varieties, and was also a pioneered of sustainable farming and regenerative practices, eschewing synthetic chemicals and using only biological farming methods to restore and maintain the health of the soil.

If you visit, you will almost certainly be shown, with pride, the giant compost heap.

Nowadays Garry Crittenden is semi-retired but sill emails regularly and acts as an ambassador for the business.

"In commemoration of that historic time in 1972, I have made a batch of 2021 pinot labelled “40 YEARS ON “," he says.

It's a fine wine that appeared on my doorstep recently, along with some other wines marking important milestones.

Beginning from the early 1980s Garry's late wife Margaret diligently collected press clippings about the Mornington Peninsula wine industry.

In recent years Garry resurrected these clippings and collated them into a book. See here.

The Crittendens have always been among the most generous people in the wine industry. Let's raise a glass to them.

# Tasmanians may be interested to know that Garry Crittenden, along with Tony Jordan and Bill Casimaty, was responsible for planting the Tolpuddle vineyard - perhaps the state's most globally famous vineyard - back in 1988, when the modern Tasmanian wine industry was in its infancy.

A serious celebration of pinot noir

Attention all serious pinotphiles. 

The Pinot Noir Celebration Australia returns in 2023 over the weekend of February 10-11on the Mornington Peninsula.

The two-day celebration will feature more than 150 Australian and international pinot noir wines and bring together some of the world’s finest winemaking and viticultural minds, along with marketing and industry experts, climate change scientists and sommeliers. 

Top be hosted by wine writer and author Max Allen, the Pinot Noir Celebration will feature both tastings and conversations. 

Martin Spedding from Ten Minutes by Tractor, the event chair, said the event will focus on the innovation in vineyards and wineries across Australia.

“We are thrilled to be hosting this carefully curated program, celebrating pinot noir from across Australia," Spedding said.

“We will be looking at how producers are adapting and innovating in response to changes in our climate, technology and consumer attitudes, and implementing new sustainable practices to be better stewards of our land.

“Participants will be actively immersed in the second day of the program, by selecting workshops and seminars they want to explore depending on their own personal interest.” 

Climate science and sustainability will feature prominently over the two days. Climatologist and Oregon wine producer, Dr Greg Jones will join Dr Mark Krstic from the Australian Wine and Research Institute, alongside local winemakers Mac Forbes and Peter Dillon, to explore the relationship of wine with the elements and the fragility of winegrowing sites now and into the future.

Tickets to the Pinot Noir Celebration went on sale on Monday and include the full program, all event wines, lunch, dinner and additional catering over the two days.

Pinot noir lovers can find out more information and register their details online at www.pinotcelebration.com.au.

# The Pinot Noir Celebration has been held every two years since 2003. The 2020 event was cancelled due to the pandemic. The event is delivered by the members of Mornington Peninsula Wine in conjunction with Wine Australia and other pinot noir-producing regions. 

A new start for two Mornington Peninsula favourites

It is the start of a new era for both Mornington Peninsula wine producer Eldridge Estate and its long-time owner and vigneron David Lloyd.

Eldridge Estate, one of the Mornington Peninsula’s best-regarded vineyards, is now under the ownership of wine industry newcomers Elli and Vicki Tutungi.

Lloyd and his veterinarian wife Carol, meanwhile, have completed a move to a bush block at Dodges Ferry in Tasmania.

Lloyd reports that the Tutungis have had a love affair with the Mornington Peninsula and its wines for many years and moved in when Eldridge Estate came up for sale.

The Tutungis have engaged consultant winemaker Steve Flamsteed (formerly Giant Steps winemaker and co-owner of Salo Wines) to make their wines and continue to make premium chardonnay, pinot noir and gamay as did Lloyd.

Vicki Tutungi says: “Elli and I are not naïve enough to think it is going to be an easy journey, but are excited about the next chapter in our lives. David selected this piece of land for its special qualities in making premium wine and we intend to nurture it as he has.”

The vineyard is located on Arthurs Seat Road in Red Hill and the Tutungis will work Flamsteed ahead of their first vintage in 2023.

“I’m really excited to have the opportunity to work with a site of this kind of pedigree - I’ve had a long association with David and the wines of Eldridge Estate through the Victorian Pinot Noir Workshop - which began back in 2002," Flamsteed said.

"Vicki and Elli are an incredible force and are committed to producing the best possible wines from this amazing site."

Elli Tutungi is a cardiac anaesthetist and Vicki a former lawyer who has worked in technology development for 20 years. The couple has a home at Balnarring Beach, not far from Eldridge Estate and has taken advice from friends Steve Webber and Leanne de Bortoli from De Bortoli Yarra Valley.

Lloyd told me a year or so ago that after two bouts of cancer and the approach of his 70th birthday, he wanted to slow down and move to Tasmania.

"That desire has now become reality," he said. "I am turning 70 and did not have either the energy or financial resources to move Eldridge to a stable future in such a time of change."

Lloyd's former assistant Sara Van Agt will stay with Eldridge Estate, while Lloyd (below) will stay involved in the wine industry with a little side project.

 "My friend of over 30 years, Michael Twelftree, came up with a retirement project to keep my love of wine in a happy place," Lloyd says. 

"The project is The Odd Couple wine label, which is a couple of small batches of pinot produced each year where I choose the harvest date, make the wine and see it thru to bottling but do not have to run a vineyard or sell the wine."

The Odd Couple pinot is based on fruit from a small vineyard in the Coal River Valley, just a short drive from Doges Ferry.

"Carol and I are now happily living in Tasmania. where it is as tranquil as Red Hill was 28 years ago," Lloyd says from California, where he is enjoying a vacation.

Sounds like everyone is a winner.