Penfolds unveils new collection from four corners of the globe

 

The invitations drop in late April. Hardly anyone declines. 

The Penfolds Collection 2026 Preview Tasting is one of the major wine tastings of the year. 

But attendees, brilliantly looked after, have certain rules that must be followed. 

Tastings are conducted by chief winemaker Peter Gago (below) and his team around the world. 

Australian trade media, journalists and educators tasted in Adelaide in June - at EOS by Sky City and then at Magill Estate. 

Others sniffed, sipped and spat in London, New York and Paris. The wines will be released on August 6. 

All of us who attended the tastings were all sworn to secrecy. No tasting notes to be published until today’s deadline. No sneaky social media bottle images.  

Everyone has had time to consider their notes - and thoughts. The 99s and 98s will flow freely today. Probably a 100 or two. 

What struck me most about the tasting was the way the Penfolds style is now reflected across a global range of wines: from the US to France and China. 

The bold and rich Bordeaux-style 2023 FWT (French Winemaking Trial) 585 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Petit Verdot shines, while the immediately approachable 2024 CWT (Chinese Winemaking Trial) Bin 521, a blend of cabernet and marselan, is absolutely outstanding and a tribute to the winemaking skills across the team.

“No longer a novelty, no fancy wordsmithing – all of these wines are unmistakably Penfolds, sourced from different hemispheres,” says Gago.

This year’s domestic release is anchored by the 75th Anniversary of Grange, with the outstanding 2022 released this year - as usual as a wine with four years of bottle age.

“The 2022 Grange assuredly authenticates its flagship role and 75th anniversary credentials," says Gago. "No pressure. Both timely and lucky - to avail such a stellar vintage in such a symbolic year.”

Marking three-quarters of a century since its first experimental vintage in 1951, the anniversary release pays tribute to Grange’s evolution from an experimental wine crafted by Penfolds maiden chief
winemaker, Max Schubert, to a global icon.

 


We lucky invitees were also able to taste several back vintages of Grange, all with that unmistakable line of quality. The imperious new release comprises 85% Barossa fruit, aided by McLaren Vale and Coonawarra material.  

Inky, rich, sumptuous. Take your pick of adjectives.

For those who do not have a grand to drop on a bottle, I can recommend the fulsome and inviting 2024 Magill Estate Shiraz and the brilliant 2023 St Henri Shiraz. 

The other stars of the release include brilliantly balanced cabernet sauvignons. The complex and fine 2024 Penfolds Bin 707 and its younger sibling Bin 407 - a definite cellar prospect - serve as outstanding examples of multi-regional South Australian blends.

For chardonnay lovers Yattarna and Bin 311, both from 2024, are both wines of purity and definition, while the 2025 Bin 23 Pinot Noir is arguably the best release of that wine yet.

"Nothing stands still," Gago says. Yet through thick and thin, across the years, these Collection wines stand tall." 

 

He's right.  

New releases mark a rejuvenation milestone for Henschke

Three new Adelaide Hills white wine releases from the Henschke family represent a resilient return. The wines are from vineyards that were affected by the 2019 Cudlee Creek bushfire that caused more than $200 million in damage.

The new releases are the 2025 Percival's Hill Grüner Veltliner, the 2025 Joseph Hill Gerwürzttaminer and 2025 Green's Hill Riesling, all from what is rated as an exceptional vintage.

"The first release of grüner veltliner, gewürztraminer and riesling from our Lenswood Vineyard in the Adelaide Hills since the Cudlee Creek bushfire in 2019 marks an exciting milestone for Henschke," says viticulturist Prue Henschke.

"Our team has devoted countless hours to regenerating the 45-hectare property, from training over 65,000 vines on newly installed trellises to planting hundreds of native trees and shrubs to create habitats for wildlife, improving the soil with compost, and ensuring our vineyard sits in a healthy balance with the natural landscape.

"It is a pleasure to share these wines and celebrate the rejuvenation of this unique, cool-climate site."

The fire, which broke out in "catastrophic" conditions in the Adelaide Hills on December 20, 2019, started after a powerline was dislodged by a falling tree. It destroyed more than 70 homes. 

Church Block: And then there were three

Church Block has been a favourite with red wine lovers since it was launched by Wirra Wirra back in 1972.

The brand was originally a grenache/shiraz blend before founder Greg Trott transitioned to the now-classic cabernet-led blend.

Now Church Block will offer three different McLaren Vale reds - so wine lovers will need to pay attention which iteration they pick up from their local bottle store.

Church Block 2023 Shiraz and Church Block 2024 Grenache Shiraz join the traditional Church Block 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot blend, which has become regarded as a benchmark for value with an RRP of around $25.

Maintaining the integrity and legacy of Church Block was key to the development of the new wines, says Wirra Wirra CEO Matt Deller.

“The evolution of Church Block was a natural next step,” Deller said.

“It gives us the freedom to explore McLaren Vale’s classic reds through the Church Block lens, with the same focus on authenticity, balance and style that’s defined it for more than 50 years.

“It deepens what Church Block stands for, while staying true to where it began.”

Emma Wood, Wirra Wirra’s chief winemaker since 2022, had a clear vision for the new releases.

“We’ve always approached Church Block as a fine wine,” she said. “We carefully source and blend for complexity, style, and balance.

"These new wines need to live up to the reputation built over 51 vintages by over-delivering on quality, which is why Church Block resonates with both casual drinkers and collectors alike.”

The current vintages of Church Block Cabernet Blend and Church Block Shiraz will also debut a new lightweight proprietary bottle, reducing glass weight from 547g to 410g. This innovation cuts production emissions by 68 tonnes annually, representing a 10% reduction in overall emissions for Wirra Wirra.

The new Church Block wines will hit the stores any day now.

I tried all three new release. While the cabernet-based blend remains a standout, I enjoyed the juicy fruit freshness of the grenache-shiraz blend. Both are ready to enjoy right now, while the shiraz will benefit from a few months aging.  

Discover warming winter treats at Yalumba

Winter may have arrived but there is still a busy calendar for wine lovers at one of the Barossa's most popular destinations.

Yalumba's historic Wine Room is ready to welcome visitors indoors for a season of warmth, flavours and fine company.

The winter events begin with The Signature & Museum Release Tasting Lunch on Friday, June 14.

Held in the Signature Cellar, this is an intimate tasting experience hosted by former chief winemaker Louisa Rose.

Guests can enjoy a three-course lunch from Vintners Bar & Grill chef Peter Clarke with paired wines including the new release The Signature 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon & Shiraz along with a previews of the 2025 museum releases.

The SALA Festival at Yalumba runs in August.

South Australia’s Living Artists (SALA) will hold two exhibitions in the Wine Room.

First, the Vintners Art Prize - an annual collaboration with Vintners Bar & Grill - showcases local talent with artworks exploring themes of food, wine, and place. Open to residents and workers of the Barossa and Light Regional Council areas, entries close July 18, with the winner announced on July 23.

There will also be a solo showcase by Yalumba’s own Lisa Tekell. Inspired by Australian fauna and flora, Lisa’s finely detailed oil paintings are connected to the natural world.

Her works this year focus on native flowers in full bloom, as seen in her travels, and will be on 
display throughout the month. Book a wine tasting and explore these local works at the same time.

Winter Wine & Whisky at Yalumba will run on August 8-9 and is a mid-winter celebration of flavour, fire, and craft at Yalumba - including the release of a new Smith’s Angaston Whisky.

Guests can enjoy a guided tasting of the new limited-edition whisky along with a behind-the-scenes look at the Hill-Smith family's historic pot still and fistillery and live cooperage demonstrations with barrels being hand-charred for whisky maturation.

Acoustic music on the Terrace and a hearty fireside meal by Howard’s Fire will also be on offer.

Tickets include a glass of Yalumba wine, the whisky tasting, and a meal.

The Yalumba Wine Room is open daily 10am-5pm at 40 Eden Valley Road, Angaston.
Bookings recommended. www.yalumba.com

Flying high: Marnong Estate makes a statement

Make a note of the name: Marnong Estate.

First the Victorian red wine producer snapped up talented winemaker Alex Beckett, and now it has released a new collection of premium reds: 2024 single-vineyard expressions of sangiovese, montepulciano, and pinot noir, along with a 2023 single-vineyard shiraz and a more affordable 2024 estate pinot noir.

I've just tasted the 2024 montepulciano and pinot noir, along with the 2023 shiraz, which share a common thread of cool-climate elegance and hints of subtle minerality throughout the range.

You won't find Marnong in one of the major wine regions but it is in one of the oldest; located in Sunbury, just down the road from Melbourne Airport.

It sits 300 metres above sea level and is just 35 minutes from Melbourne CBD. There are 34 hectares under vine, with more planned. 

“Our wines are carefully crafted to capture the essence of the cool climate terroir through a balance of traditional and innovative techniques," former Briar Ridge winemaker Beckett (below) says.

 "The 2024 Single Vineyard collection is a perfect showcase of this - wines with remarkable complexity, refined structure, and a perfect harmony between fruit expression and savoury characters.”

Of the trio I tried, the intense and savoury montepulciano was narrowly my favourite, just edging the spice notes of the shiraz. Both are very good buys, and extremely food friendly.

The prices are: 2024 Single Vineyard Sangiovese $35; 2023 Single Vineyard Shiraz $40, 2024 Single Vineyard Montepulciano $35, 2024 Single Vineyard Pinot Noir $40, 2024 Estate Pinot Noir $25.

Marnong is certainly on my list for my next visit to bleak city. The property, with the original homestead dating back to the 1840s, is a luxury wine and dining destination with accommodation to match.

Visitors can taste at the cellar door, or dine in at one of two Italian restaurants, La Vètta, and Cucina 3064, or enjoy coffee with a view at Caffè Vista.

Marnong Estate holds wine and chocolate tastings at its cellar door - but you'll need a reservation for that. See www.marnongestate.com.au.

New releases showcase a new era for Fowles Wines

Fowles Wines pulled off a major coup when they signed up Matt Harrop as their chief winemaker late last year.

New Zealand-born Harrop is one of Australia's most talented winemakers, and a leading wine show judge.

He has worked at Rothbury Estate, Grosset, Brokenwood, Nautilus and Shadowfax and joined Fowles from Curly Flat Wines in the Macedon Ranges. He also has his own family wine label, Silent Way.

Harrop currently chairs the National Wine Show panel and has previously chaired the Melbourne Wine Show.

He has extensive experience working in climates and soils similar to those in Victoria's rocky Strathbogie Ranges, where Fowles is located.

"His expertise in cool-climate viticulture aligns perfectly with our vineyards in the Strathbogie Ranges," says Fowles Wines owner Matt Fowles.

"He is well positioned to drive our continued success."

Fowles has just released three impressive wines under its Stone Dwellers label, the first trio of wines in which Harrop played a role and finished prior to bottling.

 

The trio comprises the Fowles Stone Dwellers 2024 Arneis, 20124 Riesling and 2023 Sangiovese. All three are impressively cohesive, food friendly and offer excellent value with an RRP of $35.

While I enjoyed all three, the Arneis was my standout with its vibrancy, varietal character, structure and fruit-forward freshness. No oak, but lees treatment has added to the palate weight.

The Sangiovese is balanced, delightfully savoury and ready to enjoy immediately after being aged in almost neutral older French oak, while the Riesling is crisp, fresh, dry and versatile.

The future's so bright, they gotta wear shades.

See www.fowleswine.com

     

 

 

Family-owned Delamere is a Tasmanian wine success story

Fran Austin comes from Kalgoorlie via Perth. Shane Holloways's family owns a vineyard in the Adelaide Hills.

Together, the husband and wife winemaking team has turned once-tiny Delamere Vineyards into one of the most respected names in the Tasmanian wine industry.

Austin made her name as winemaker at Bay of Fires; Holloway made wines at Dalrymple. And when Delamere, planted in 1982, came on the market in 2007, they gambled all on buying the Pipers River property.

Almost two decades on they have hugely expanded vineyards, a large winemaking facility, including a new tirage facility, their own bottling line, and they contract make wines for several small labels. That's a win.

The couple - who combine technical ability with good instincts - sescribe themselves as "Tasmanian grower producers handcrafting traditional method sparkling wines and table wines". 

Cool guys. Obsessive about quality.

Austin has a degree in winemaking from Adelaide University and did vintages in Burgundy and the south of France, worked with the hugely influential Brian Croser, and has a CV that involves roles at Domaine Chandon, Petaluma and Houghton before landing in Tasmania, where she worked at Heemskerk and Rochecombe before landing at Bay of Fires, where she quickly developed a formidable reputation.

  

Holloway, a former marine biologist, took up a vintage cellar hand position to help pay the rent whilst undertaking post-graduate research. He completed an Adelaide University post-graduate degree in winemaking and embarked on vintages in the Adelaide Hills, Yarra Valley and Oregon before Tasmania called him back and he made wine at Dalrymple. 

Wine won over marine creatures. 

Last week, the couple hosted a dinner at Launceston's Black Cow Bistro to launch the new 2023 vintages of their estate pinot noir and chardonnay. A similar tasting is scheduled for Hobart later this month.  

The line-up, which showcased wines as far back as their first vintage in 2008, featuring stunning brackets of museum wines, along with a sneak peek at the 2023 Delamere Estate Chardonnay and 2023 Estate Pinot Noir, both of which are released today with an RRP of $70.

Delamere is unusual in that all its estate wines are made from just two grape varieties, the range includes not only sparkling and table wines but also a new-release NV Ratafia. 

Both new estate wines will likely sell out within weeks.

While the dinner was about the releases and showing how the wines age, diners began their night with a stunning 2012 Late Disgorged Blanc de Blancs ($150) and a 2013 Vintage Rosé ($80). 

They were then regaled with entertaining stories about the couple's Delamere journey on a 100% estate grown, made and bottled story. 

"Chardonnay is why I fell in love with Delamere - and it remains my desert island wine," said Shane, revealing how he made the stunningly youthful 2008 on his own, with Fran still working at Bay of Fires at the time.

"The combination of soil and site make our vineyards perfect for cool-climate chardonnay and pinot noir," he says. 

Fran says each wine they make "unlocks the inherent beauty of our site, as we encapsulate the story of each season in our wine". 

The rich ironstone soils at Pipers River are farmed 100% by hand, and the wines are very much a reflection of each vintage: 100% family-owned and -run. 

And the back vintages that we tried at dinner underlined just how well the estate chardonnay and pinot noir will cellar.  

See www.delamerevineyards.com.au    

100% Family owned and run, 100% grown, made and bottled at our Pipers River Estate

How bats are playing a role in a new wine range

You don't see a lot field blend wines any more, with single varietals very much in fashion.

A field blend is a wine made up of two or more types of grapes, where the grapes are planted together in the same vineyard, brought in together at harvest and co-fermented in the winery.

Fowles Wine at Avenel, just 90 minutes north of Melbourne, has defied fashion with its new Fieldsong range, with a white blend and a red blend from the cool-climate Strathbogie Ranges.

Both wines are aromatic and bright with the red just edging my vote.

The White Field Blend is a true fruit salad with sauvignon blanc, riesling, arneis, pinot grigio and chardonnay coming together in delightful harmony. A vinous Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young with a guest appearance from James Taylor.

The Red Field Blend is s similar collection of talents that proved a very friendly partner for a Thai red duck curry.

Here mourvèdre is the unlikely band leader with pinot noir. merlot, shiraz and sangiovese adding the harmonies.

Owner Matt Fowles says his team is always looking at ways they can work with the power of nature to create exceptional wines and help restore and regenerate the environment as they go.

“Fieldsong is the outcome of the care we put into our environment and shows what can be produced with a nurturing and holistic approach to nature and winemaking,” he said.

“The range is inspired by the cacophony of sounds and variety of fauna that call our vines home, paired with the overwhelming sense of calm we feel when walking through our vineyard blocks.

“At Fowles, we aren’t just focused on making good wine, we strive to be at the forefront of environmental developments that help protect our ecosystem - leaving them in even better condition than when we started.”

With that in mind, the winery’s latest project is investigating the value of some of Fowles’ smallest inhabitants - the microbats that call the winery home.

The winery has partnered with the University of New England (UNE) for a ground-breaking study into insect-eating micro-bats as a means of vineyard pest control, which could ultimately save Australia’s wine industry $50 million per annum.

The joint study is focused on the potential utilisation of natural resources in the broader wine industry and harness nature’s powers to promote a regenerative environment.

There are 16 species of insect-eating microbats in Victoria, 12 of which call Fowles’ vineyards home. These small vineyard residents consume up to 100% of their body mass in insects each day. This means that a colony of 100 bats, weighing 10 grams each, could remove up to one kilo of insects every night.

“We are fostering a balanced farming system and seek to repurpose and utilise what is available on the property," says Fowles.

“This current project with UNE represents a leap forward - the most comprehensive study yet - aimed at unravelling bat diversity and their ecosystem contributions within vineyards.

“Our main priority is not yield, it’s about embracing the power of nature, surrendering to the chaos and seeing the incredible quality that it brings.”

Both the Fieldsong wines are food friendly, and offer excellent value at $30. 

See fowleswine.com

Briar Ridge: a quiet Hunter achiever, spreads its wings

There are big name wineries in the Hunter Valley that tend to be the focus of attention: Tyrrell's, Brokenwood and Mount Pleasant come to mind.

But there are also dozens of smaller, lower-profile producers worthy of attention.

One of the lesser known gems is Briar Ridge, tucked away in the picturesque hills of Mount View.

This boutique winery, helmed by rising winemaking star Alex Beckett, sources fruit from around Australia in addition to showcasing its own terroir.

Three new premium releases are a case in point: the trio uses fruit from the Hunter, the Hilltops region outside Young and far away Wrattonbully in South Australia's Limestone Coast.

These new releases are the 2021 Single Vineyard Dairy Hill Shiraz from the Hunter, the 2021 Single Vineyard Big Bully Cabernet Sauvignon from Wrattonbully and the 2022 Single Vineyard Hillrose Shiraz from the Hilltops.

All are reds substance; ideal for enjoying over the winter months.

Hunter locals look away now: the Wrattonbully wine was my favourite for immediate consumption, big and bold with intense blackberry and blackcurrant flavours. Full of personality; this is meaty, beaty, big and bouncy with a nod to The Who.

The Dairy Hill was the runner up, although I'm sure it will be the best wine down the road; a classic medium-bodied lifted and savoury Hunter style. This one has a long way to go.

Briar Ridge last year celebrated its 50th birthday and its estate vineyard has altitude to allow it to avoid temperature extremes - not unknown in the Hunter.


Briar Ridge was recently being shortlisted for the 2024 Halliday Wine Companion Awards for 'Best Value Winery, although these new releases are priced at $65 a bottle.

“We not only have this strong history and tradition at Briar Ridge Vineyard but also all this tremendous excitement around new grape varieties, modern viticultural practices and winemaking techniques," says Beckett.

"To me, it’s the melding together of the old and the new that makes Briar Ridge wines so interesting - it’s certainly why I enjoy doing what I do.” 

My only quibble. All three are bottled under cork.  

See https://www.briarridge.com.au/

Handpicked Wines does things a little differently

 

The Handpicked Wines operation is very different to other Australian wine producers. 

For a start, Handpicked sources fruit from vineyards across the country - from the Barossa to Tasmania. 

Owner William Dong and winemaker Peter Dillon follow environmentally sustainable principles and sell many of their wines through their city centre cellar doors in Sydney and Melbourne rather than through more traditional avenues. 

Dong purchased Handpicked's first vineyard - the Capella Vineyard on the Mornington Peninsula (above) - a decade ago. 

That anniversary is being marked by the release of four 2021 vintage wines across its the Collection and Single Vineyard ranges.

In the past year, Capella Vineyard has achieved ‘Certified Member’ status from Sustainable Winegrowing Australia (SWA) and Organic Certification from the National Association for Sustainable Agriculture Australia (NASAA). 

“For the better part of a decade, we have researched, trialled and enacted intense regenerative farming practices in the vineyard and surrounding natural habitats that comprise the Capella Vineyard site." says chief winemaker Dillon. 

"We’ve done this to deliver the purest, most expressive fruit possible and give our vines the best chance of being around for generations to come. 

“While I’m proud of the certification for the site, I’m even more excited by seeing Capella teeming with life - down to the highly active soils the vines grow in.”

Capella Vineyard is a small, ultra-premium vineyard site with 5.2 hectares of pinot noir and 1.6 hectares of chardonnay. 

Dong has subsequently purchased a further five vineyards in Yarra Valley, Barossa and Tasmania but says Capella remains the spiritual home of Handpicked's winemaking operations.

The new-release wines include the Collection Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay 2021 ($49.99) and the Collection 2021 Mornington Pinot Noir ($59.99).

The new Capella Vineyard Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay 2021 ($69.99) is from just two blocks - while two blocks also provided the fruit for the Capella Vineyard Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2021 ($89.99). 

My wife was a big fans of the pinots, describing them as "stylish and sophisticated" while my personal preference was for the chardonnays: both lean and mineraly with gunflint characters and with cool-climate food friendliness. 

See www.handpickedwines.com.au.

Anyone for a glass of Chateau Djokovic?

Novak Djokovic is a masterful tennis player with a controversial personality. 

The Serbian tennis star is hoping that his success on the court - 21 grand slam titles - can translate into wine sales, having launched his first two wines over the weekend. 

Djokovic joins the likes of Ernie Els, Brad Pitt, Kylie Minogue and Graham Norton in launching a wine range, opening serve with a 2020 Djokovic Chardonnay and 2020 Djokovic Syrah. 

Serbian wine magazine Vino & Fino reports that the Djokovic Winery is a new operation in the player's home nation. 

Djokovic's uncle, Goran, is the director of the winery, and he told Vino & Fino that he hopes the vineyard will soon attain a similar status to what his nephew has achieved on-court. 

"There are many challenges, but we try to achieve the maximum in this business, as in everything," Goran Djokovic told Vino & Fino. 

The magazine reports that the Djokovic family vineyard covers six hectares in Sumadija, Serbia, three for white grapes and three for red grapes, on "one of the most attractive lands in Serbia, on red soil rich in stone, marl rock and lime, with large white pieces of stone." 

Šumadija is Serbia’s premiere wine region and is home to leading wine producer Mija Radovanovi.

The wine is currently sold at the Wine & Pleasure store in Belgrade but there are plans for future global distribution. 

A semillon for every palate

It has been "all change" recently at Hunter Valley icon Mount Pleasant with new owners and a new cellar door.

Now Mount Pleasant is set to unveil its new-release semillons on September 13, including the 2017 cellar-aged Lovedale Semillon, a regional icon and a wine that can cellar for 20-25 years.  

“The wine is a beautiful example of Hunter Valley semillon," says chief winemaker Adrian Sparks. "Containing a complex nose highlighting perfectly balanced bottle aged and fruit characters, a lively fresh palate with ripe citrus notes, fine acidity and a long lingering finish. This wine will cellar to be a definitive example of the classic Hunter semillon style.”

The 2022 whites release features four semillons produced from the Lovedale Vineyard, which was first planted by pioneering Maurice O’Shea in 1946. It just depends whether your preference is for youthful, or mature semillon.  

I loved the value offered by the 2022 Mount Pleasant 2022 Estate Semillon, which I reviewed in Ciao Magazine: 

There is something very special about Hunter Valley semillon, which is expressive and deliciously lively while young, and then develops toasty characters when aged. Mount Pleasant, one of the leading producers of the style and with a history that dates back over 100 years, has new owners and new labels but winemaker Adrian Sparks remains on board, and this is a delightful new release with youthful vibrancy and a lemony tang on the palate. Brilliant when paired with freshly shucked oysters. $25.

The other wines I have sampled are all excellent: the 2022 Lovedale Semillon (members only) $55; 2017 Lovedale Semillon $90 and 2017 Elizabeth Semillon $30. The release also includes a 2022 rosé and a 2021 chardonnay and fiano.

The wines will all be available for tasting and sales in the newly refurbished cellar door from their release, with Mount Pleasant hosting a dedicated lunch on September 17 to celebrate the 2022 released whites.

The event will offer the opportunity for guests to experience the newly refurbished cellar door along with a four-course lunch with canapes on arrival, designed by head chef Kyle Whitbourne in collaboration with celebrated Australian chef, Justin North. The lunch will feature wine pairing chosen by Sparks.

Tickets will be available for $250 per person, including live entertainment and a winery tour. See www.mountpleasantwines.com.au

The more the meunier for Seppelt

Pinot Meunier is a red grape variety that is probably best known for its role in Champagne blends alongside pinot noir and chardonnay.

Also known as meunier or schwarzriesling, the grape is rarely seen as a stand-alone table wine variety - but a 2021 Drumborg Pinot Meunier is one of the starts of the newly-released 2022 Seppelt Luxury Collection.

Pinot Meunier comprises approximately one-third of all the grapes planted in Champagne but is fairly unusual in Australia.

When well made, as in the case of the 2021 Seppelt Pinot Meunier, it offers a lighter-style red that can be compared to gamay (the grape used in Beaujolais), and cool-climate pinot noirs.

At $36, the new Seppelt release offers a lot of bright refreshment and could probably be lightly chilled on a warmer day.

It is luscious with red fruits to the fore and has lovely balance at 13.5% ABV and has a delicate, subtle structure. 

It was the definite star for me alongside the very impressive lean and pure 2021 Drumborg Chardonnay ($40). The other Drumborg wines were a 2022 Riesling ($40) that needs time to settle, and a 2021 Pinot Noir ($45).

This year’s Collection comprises eight wines sourced from across Victoria’s Grampians, Heathcote and Henty regions.

All the wines have been crafted by senior winemaker Clare Dry, who joined Seppelt in 2020.

“Many of the wines were crafted in my first vintage at the helm of Seppelt and I’m thrilled to showcase my winemaking approach, building on over 170 years of heritage behind the label,” Dry says.

The Collection is led by the 2020 St Peters Grampians Shiraz, sourced from the Great Western Vineyard.

The four wines I tried are from the Drumborg Vineyard, one of the southernmost vineyards in mainland Australia.

“Each of the wines from this year’s Collection has a story to tell, from the elegance of St Peters to the ethereal Drumborg reds," says Dry. "The release is a showcase of our vineyards, viticulture and winemaking.

“The Drumborg wines in particular were a thrill to make, courtesy of a sensational vintage in 2021. Fruit was picked at optimum conditions, delivering parcels that were incredibly flavoursome, balanced and pure. The chardonnay is a real pride point as I’ve reworked the style significantly, creating a delicate wine which I believe captures the purity and intensity of the Drumborg site.”

The release also includes the 2021 Chalambar Grampians & Heathcote Shiraz and 2021 Jaluka Henty Chardonnay, along with the 2017 release of Salinger Vintage Cuvée.

The 2022 Seppelt Luxury Collection is available from seppelt.com.au

# Founded in 1851, Seppelt was a pioneer of sparkling wine in Australia in the 1890s and helped pave the way for cool-climate styles in Australia.

Hey, hey it's Wynnsday

Lovers of  balanced, cellar worthy, medium-bodied red wines have today's date marked on their calendars. 

Sue Hodder and the Wynns Coonawarra Estate team launch their new annual premium releases on Wynnsday - and the wines certainly live up to expectations with a spectacular Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon heading the value parade.

Established in 1951 with history dating back to the late 1800s, Wynns Coonawarra Estate is the region's pre-eminent wine producer, and largest single vineyard holder. 

Its wines are regarded as benchmarks for the district; lauded for both their consistent quality and depth of flavour.

Hodder says the collection released today reflects "a golden era" at the estate.

“Wynnsday 2021 sees the return of our flagship wines, John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon and Michael Shiraz from the acclaimed, warmer 2018 vintage," Hodder says. 

"Additionally, our single-vineyard wine from 2018 is made from our oldest cabernet vineyard - Johnsons. 

"That said, 2019 was an equally lauded vintage – more elegant and a worthy style to contrast with 2018. 

"The Black Label Shiraz and Black Label Cabernet will be strong vintages in vertical tastings of these iconic labels." 

Also, Sarah Pidgeon has made finely-structured, early picked wines from the Wynns V and A Lane vineyards in 2019.

“The two release vintages - 2018 and 2019 - are as strong a pair I have seen in my 30 years at Wynns," Hodder says. 

The bargain buy is undoubtedly the Black Label 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon ($45). 

First produced in 1954, this wine has a reputation for ageing gracefully and displaying excellent varietal and regional characteristics. It is already lovely and well balanced and will grace many cellars for years to come. 

Another standout for me is V&A Lane 2019 Cabernet Shiraz ($60), a delightful blend to send heartbeats racing. Everything with in its place here. Hugely impressive.

The star of the show, not unexpectedly, is the 2018 vintage Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon ($150)

First made in 1982, the John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon is Wynns flagship wine. It is made in small quantities from the best available fruit grown on the estate's extensive cabernet sauvignon plantings. Brambly and intense. One for the cellar, for sure

The collection is available now from fine wine retailers across Australia.

The full line-up is:Black Label Cabernet & Shiraz 2019, V&A Lane Cabernet Shiraz & Shiraz 2019, Johnsons single vineyard Cabernet 2018, Michael Shiraz 2018, John Riddoch Cabernet 2018

 See www.wynns.com.au

New wine releases pay tribute to 165 years of history

Wine drinkers who enjoy high-quality wines that are still relatively affordable will be looking forward to Thursday, when Hardys release the latest vintage wines across their Icon range. 

The new releases comprise the Thomas Hardy Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Eileen Hardy Chardonnay 2019 and Eileen Hardy Shiraz 2018.  

I taste tasted the new releases a couple of weeks ago while on Bruny Island via a Zoom tasting with new Hardys chief winemaker Nigel Sneyd. 

This range prolongs the legacy of industry pioneer Thomas Hardy - hailed as the father of the South Australian wine industry - who in 1853, against a backdrop of global uncertainty, launched his brand. 

Sneyd, a Master of Wine, says the latest Icon wines are blends of South Australia’s finest landscapes and represent the multi-regional blending approach to winemaking that Thomas Hardy first established last century. 

The release is timed so the wines can be enjoyed now, or confidently be cellared.

“As one of Australia’s oldest and most iconic wineries, Hardys is well known for consistently crafting wines of excellence and is committed to keeping Thomas Hardy’s pioneering spirit alive," says Sneyd.

"These are truly remarkable drops that embody the pinnacle of Australian winemaking." 

The Eileen Hardy Shiraz 2018 ($153.99) and Eileen Hardy Chardonnay 2019 ($117.99) will be available at Dan Murphy’s, Vintage Cellars and select independent retailers nationally and the Thomas Hardy Cabernet Sauvignon ($159.99) at Dan's and independent outlets. 

The reds are comfortable, thoroughly modern wines with less high acidity than some of their predecessors; the chardonnay a blend of Yarra Valley and Margaret River fruit that is full of malo richness, stone fruit and classy oak but less steely than previous incarnations featuring Tasmanian fruit. 

The shiraz is the star of the show for immediate vinous gratification  a single-vineyard wine using grapes from 70-year-old vines at Upper Tintara in McLaren Vale - just near the Hardys winery. This is simply delicious; velvety and plush with soft tannins and tremendous length. 

The cabernet is "the best the company can make", a blend of Coonawarra and Margaret River fruit hat is dense with firm tannins. It is a big, masculine wine with black fruits and tapenade notes that will rest happily in many cellars for a good while. 

Summing up: drink the shiraz now, the chardonnay over the next five years and the cabernet when everyone has forgotten who the Kardashians were. 

 

# Hardys wines are sold in over 130 countries. Hardys has received more than 9,000 Australian and international awards in its 165+ years and the brand is now owned by Accolade Wines. 

The five best-value wines in the 2021 release of the Penfolds Collection

Most of my wine writing colleagues will today be dissecting in minute detail the new-release 2017 Penfolds Grange - Australia's flagship red wine - which will be released on August 5. 

Today sees the lifting of the embargo on global tastings held last month of the new Penfolds releases. 

With the new Grange very much a special occasion wine at $950 a bottle, I thought you might be more interested in the best value wines among the new releases: wines ordinary folk can enjoy, or cellar, without taking out as second mortgage. 

The Australia Collection 2021 includes 2017 Grange $950.00; 2019 Yattarna Chardonnay $175.00; 2019 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon $650.00; 2019 RWT Bin 798 Barossa Valley Shiraz $200.00; 2019 Magill Estate Shiraz $150.00; 2018 St Henri Shiraz $135.00; 2020 Reserve Bin A Adelaide Hills Chardonnay $125.00;  2019 Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz $100.00; 2019 Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon $110.00; 2019 Bin 150 Marananga Shiraz $100.00; 2019 Bin 28 Shiraz $50.00; 2019 Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz $60.00; 2019 Bin 138 Barossa Valley Shiraz Grenache Mataro $60.00; 2020 Bin 23 Pinot Noir $50.00; 2020 Bin 311 Chardonnay $50.00 and 2021 Bin 51 Eden Valley Riesling $40.00. 

That is a collection spanning five white and red wine vintages.

First of all, some notes about the new releases and some thoughts from Penfolds chief winemaker Peter Gago (above) on the "house style" that has been a hallmark for 177 years as the flagship Grange celebrates its 70th anniversary (1951 experimental – 2021). 

"Adored for its aromatic complexity, intensely rich fruit and ripe tannins of shiraz, Grange’s style and winemaking techniques have not altered since the first experimental vintages in the early 50s," says Gago. 

"After 70 years of unbroken vintage releases, the South Australian heritage icon is renowned by collector’s the world over for its unique Australian identity, consistency, and proven aging potential. 

“The original aspiration for Grange was to create a red wine ‘capable of staying alive for a minimum of 20 years’. Tell that to sexagenarian vintages such as ’52, ’53, ’55 & ’62! Stunningly drinkable in 2021! In modern parlance - under-promise, over-deliver! Long may it continue … and modern Grange vintages such as ’08, ’10 & ’16 patiently await judgement in 2071!” 

My verdict on the 2017 Grange: Made from 100% shiraz, a wine that combines richness and stylishness; powerful but elegant with layers of soft and smooth flavours ranging from racy to umami to dusty. 97/100. 

Like most Penfolds wines, the new vintage red and white wines will continue to develop and improve for many years after release - how long they should be kept depends on whether you enjoy your wine with some youthfulness or fully matured. 

Adding to this year’s Collection, Penfolds will launch two limited-edition wines made from parcels destined for Penfolds flagships: Superblend 802.A and 802.B Cabernet Shiraz (both $900). 

Essentially siblings raised in different environments, the wines represent two very different interpretations of the classic Australian blend of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz. The price of both is high for me, but they will doubtless be snapped up by collectors.

My top five value wines from the new releases: 

Penfolds 2018 St Henri: Made from 100% shiraz, it's all about the fruit here; dark and delicious and immediately accessible. Soft and supple and seductive. 99 points. $135. 

Penfolds 2021 Bin 51 Eden Valley Riesling: Perhaps the best-ever Bin 51. High-altitude and cool-climate fruit with finesse and elegance that can be enjoyed now with its bright acidity, lemon sherbet notes and crispness, or be cellared. 97 points. $40. 

Penfolds Bin 407 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon: Beautifully balanced, impeccably composed with berries, cassis and chocolate notes and impressive tannin structure. Drinkable now but with decades to go. 97 points. $125. 

Penfolds Bin 128 2019 Coonawarra Shiraz: A really delicious cool-climate shiraz with dark fruits, pepper and spice notes duelling on your tongue. 12 months in French oak hogshead. 96 points. $60.

Penfolds RWT Bin 798 Barossa Valley Shiraz: The initials RWT stand for ‘Red Winemaking Trial’ but now a stalwart of the range. Made from Barossa Valley fruit selected for aromatic qualities and lush texture. This is bright and vibrant. 96 points. $200.  

For more information visit www.penfolds.com. 

Why I'm sworn to silence about the new Penfolds wines

Chief winemaker Peter Gago and the Penfolds winemaking team today unveiled the new 2017 Penfolds Grange, along with the rest of the 2021 Australia Collection. 

A small group of lucky media (minus the Victorians) was shown all the new releases - along with two brand new wines - at the superb new Kingsford Homestead facility on the edge of the Barossa Valley. 

We sniffed and sipped, made notes and interrogated Gago. But I can't reveal a word about any of the new releases. 

With more tastings to be held globally, there is a media embargo imposed until July 22 - and the wines will not be released until August 5. 

So what can I tell you? 

The team let slip that there might be some news on pricing that will please consumers. 

All the wines will be released in Australia with a screw cap option. Except Grange, which remains under cork. 

I can also say that one of the cheapest wines in the range is absolutely stunning. But I can't say any more. 

Just stay tuned. 

Impressive start for new Seppelt winemaker

New Seppelt senior winemaker Clare Dry is off to a good start with her first release as the venerable producer marks its 170th birthday.

Dry's 2021 Seppelt Drumborg Riesling from Henty is part of the 2021 Seppelt Luxury Collection launched this month. All the other new releases were made by her predecessor Adam Carnaby. 

The collection comprises seven wines sourced from regional Victoria: Grampians, Heathcote and Henty regions for a brand that was established in 1851. 

“It’s a privilege to launch the 2021 Seppelt Luxury Collection in honour of the icons of Australian wine  who have been at the helm of Seppelt," Dry said. 

"Names including Benno and Karl Seppelt, Charles Pierlot, Ian McKenzie, Colin Preece and most recently Adam Carnaby, have been transformational not only just for Seppelt, but the Australian wine industry in general.

"There is a little bit of each of them in these wines - and that’s pretty special. 

“The sole wine from vintage 2021, the Drumborg Vineyard Riesling, is my first Seppelt release. I experimented with different techniques including whole bunch pressing, hand pick with crush to press, and different levels of solids in the ferment. 

"The resulting wine is classic Drumborg, with tight mineral acid and a seamless palate of florals and citrus fruit with a hint of exotic spice."

The Drumborg retails for $40 and maintains the standards you would expect. It's dry, delicious and full of palate interest. I'll taste the shirazes over the next couple of weeks.