Top chef Emett signs with Air New Zealand

Air New Zealand has signed up celebrated New Zealand chef Josh Emett as its new culinary ambassador. 

Emett is the only New Zealand chef to have collected Michelin stars across three different restaurants in London, New York, and Los Angeles in his time with Gordon Ramsay.

He is co-owner of Onslow restaurant in Auckland, the Oyster Inn on Waiheke Island and Gilt Brasserie in Auckland.

In this new role, Emett will focus on showcasing New Zealand produce, hospitality and elevated cuisine across the Air New Zealand premium dining experience. Tough luck for those in economy. 

As part of the new partnership, he will design a selection of signature dishes to feature alongside Air New Zealand's existing onboard menu across premium economy, business premier and business premier luxe, on all long-haul flights out of Auckland and on select flights from North America.

From October, customers travelling in the airline's premium cabins will have the opportunity to indulge in Emett's new menu items with dishes showcasing the ingredients that make New Zealand food so special.

Emett says it was the opportunity to showcase the best of New Zealand that drove him to take on the role.

“This is about taking what New Zealand does best out into the world. I started with the ingredients I love, like New Zealand lamb and venison, and built from there with seasonal vegetables and flavours that travel well at altitude. The result is food that feels elegant, refined and distinctly Kiwi," he says.

“There's a lot to consider when creating dishes that are to be enjoyed in the skies. Lower air pressure, humidity and even background noise change how we experience flavour, so you have to think carefully about how dishes are built, from seasoning through to texture and balance.

“You'll see bolder flavours in the dishes, whether it's the richness of a pinot-braised chicken or the intensity of a miso dressing. It's about making sure every dish delivers, even at 35,000-feet. 

“New Zealand ingredients are world class. Onboard an Air New Zealand aircraft is one of the first places people experience our country, so I want these dishes to reflect that - simple, delicious food that lets the produce speak and tells a story about where it comes from.”

Dishes from Emett's onboard selection will include seared venison with golden kūmara chutney, kawakawa-spiced beetroot and toasted pinenuts, as well as smoked kahawai mousse, red onion and celery pickle and toasted sourdough.

Air New Zealand chief customer and digital officer Jeremy O'Brien says the airline's culinary teams will work closely with Emett and local producers to reflect the diversity of New Zealand's regions on the menu, with a strong focus on seasonality and quality.

“As New Zealand's national airline, we're proud to represent the very best of New Zealand every time someone steps onboard,” O'Brien says.

“Food is a massive part of that. It can shape how people feel about their journey, and it's one of the moments we know our customers look forward to most.

“In Josh, we've partnered with a chef who is not only world class, but a true ambassador for New Zealand food. This is about more than a menu. it's about creating a uniquely kiwi experience that our customers will remember long after the flight.”

The new menu items will begin rolling out onboard from October 2026. 

See https://www.airnewzealand.com.au

Star Sydney chef opens up in the country

The South Coast of New South Wales is get another fine dining experience, with star Sydney chef Alex Prichard running the kitchen.

Prichard, former culinary director of Icebergs Dining Room and Bar, will lead a new era of regional dining with the opening of Sara Dining, a produce-driven restaurant set within Moraea Farm, part of the Linnaeus Collection near Berry.

The restaurant will open this winter with bookings now open. 

Prichard, who has lived on the NSW South Coast with his young family for six years, has close relationships with some of NSW and Australia's best producers. 

He has long dreamed of opening his own restaurant close to home. 

To bring their vision to life, Alex and his wife Angie have joined forces with local couple Peter and Nadia Yannopoulos, owners and operators of Linnaeus Collection, a portfolio of private residences across the Berry region that reimagines the traditional hotel model.

Sara Dining, restored to accommodate the restaurant, forms part of a "holistic vision" where accommodation, agriculture and dining exist as a connected ecosystem. 

“Sara is about stripping things back to what matters - the ingredient, the season, the region,” says Prichard. 

“It’s hospitality that feels grounded in the countryside, a relaxed way of eating, but also quietly elevated. We want guests to sit on the veranda, overlooking the garden and Berry hinterland, and feel like you are at a friend's home. But a friend who really cares about what you are eating and drinking."

At Linnaeus Collection, established in Berry in 2019, guests stay in a selection of architecturally designed farm estates and town residences. 

The menu will be influenced by Moraea Farm and the surrounding region, with a focus on local seafood, small-scale producers and garden-led cooking. Prichard will also use benchmark ingredients from some of his favourite producers from elsewhere in Australia.



Dishes from the opening Sara Dining menu include: 

* Wheelers Sydney Rock oysters with pink peppercorn mignonette, served with a spice wild boar chipolata

* Salad of raw wild kingfish and tuna, radishes, Moraea Farm pickles, sesame and plum

* Mixed crudo plate of Paspaley pearl meat, Franks Bombo Royal red prawns, Craig Lukey Ulludulla blue mackerel, wild kingfish, trevally and tuna, Chris Bolton coral trout. Served with Ananda organic capers, green ant and verjus dressing.

* Kangaroo Valley retired dairy cow rib eye and tableside condiments

* Wild-shot Highlands venison tartare with seaweed

Sara Dining will be at 450b Coolangatta Rd, Berry, NSW.

www.saradining.com.au

Images: Jason Loucas

Bird in Hand celebrates love for Tasmania

Andrew and Susie Nugent have an ongoing love affair with Tasmania and its cool-climate wines.

The founders of Adelaide Hills winery Bird in Hand - known for its outstanding restaurant - now control two vineyards on the island state and have opened their new hospitality venture at the lovely Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens in Hobart.

With former Saffire head chef Paddy Prenter heading the kitchen brigade, Bird in Hand this week celebrated the opening of its new restaurant, kiosk and a wine tasting facility in the gardens.

The Friday night opening was blessed with some rare balmy autumnal Tasmanian weather.

The tasting room, restaurant and kiosk will all offer different experiences and Bird in Hand will also manage weddings and bespoke events. 

I can't imagine anywhere nicer than the veranda to enjoy a glass or two on a sunny day.

The Nugents expect a restaurant dining experience akin to Bird in Hand’s LVN Restaurant at Woodside, with the  spectacular dining room showcasing local produce, art, flora and fauna of Tasmania.

The tasting room will showcase Bird in Hand cool-climate wines - including those from the East Coast and West Tamar vineyards - alongside a selection of other locally crafted beverages.

The 14-hectare Botanical Gardens has housed rare, native and intriguing plants for over 200 years. It also offers a thriving kitchen garden.

"We've long known about the quality of wines from Tasmania, and now we have our own vineyard at Seymour, north of Bicheno, and custodianship of  Waterton Hall in the Tamar, as well as the very special privilege of being in Hobart," Nugent said at the launch. 

"We'd known about the potential of sparkling wines from Tasmania but to be perfectly honest we didn't understand what an extraordinarily special place this is - the beauty of the land and its people is unsurpassed. 

"We want to contribute to the community, to the producers and the environment.

"We will do our very best to do justice to this magnificent site."     

* The writer was a guest of Bird in Hand

Experienced new chef aims to showcase local flavours

The South Coast of New South Wales has emerged as a serious gourmet destination in recent years, with Cupitt's Estate among the flagbearers.

At a time when consumer spending has tightened, the South Coast has seen restaurant dining numbers in the region increase by 15-16% across January and February compared to 2025, data shows.

Riding the continuing wave, Cupitt’s has appointed experienced Ryan Smith as executive chef, with Smith bringing more than 27 years of international culinary experience to the role.

Smith joins Cupitt’s Estate following an extensive career spanning fine dining kitchens in Sydney (Banc and Restaurant Balzac) and London, including events where has cooked for the British Royal Family.

His career includes a spell at London's The Square. Following this, he took on a head chef role within the Bill Granger restaurant group in the UK.

Closer to home, Smith has previously served as head chef at Rick Stein at Bannisters and says returning to the region feels like coming home.

His parents live locally, and he has strong South Coast connections.

Smith says his focus at Cupitt's Estate will centre on what he believes is the key to the success of regional restaurants; exceptional local produce, cooked simply and served fresh.

“Regional dining works when you embrace what’s around you," he says. "For us, that’s the local seafood and produce and the people farming and growing it. The closer you can get ingredients to the plate, the better the result.”

Libby Cupitt, strategic partnerships Manager at Cupitt’s, says: “The South Coast dining scene has evolved significantly in recent years and we see Cupitt’s Estate as playing a key role in that continued growth.

“There’s great producers, passionate chefs and a real appreciation from diners for quality local food matched to great wine.”

# Cupitt’s Estate is located nestled between Milton and Ulladulla and offers a winery, the restaurant, and luxury accommodation on site in the form of 10 architecturally designed stand-alone villas I've just added it to my "to do" list.

For more info see www.cupittsestate.com.au.

Tasmania: take a walk on the mild side

Tasmania is home to some great adventure treks.

From the Overland Track to Three Capes Track, the Maria Island Walk, Bay of Fires, Bruny Island and the Walls of Jerusalem Natioaln Park, there are many multi-day walks to choose from.

Also think the Dove Lake Circuit at Cradle Mountain, Wineglass Bay in in the Freycinet National Park and Cape Hauy on the Tasman Peninsula.

For something a little bit different - and slightly less challenging - maybe seek out the new single day in the wild walks offered by Bakers Walking Company near Bakers Beach. They sound ideal for those who do not want to climb mountains or overnight in tents. 

The guided day walks explore a private 1,137-acre wilderness beside Narawntapu National Park that covers easy-to-moderate terrain through forest and open bushland. 

The experience combines a chance to enjoy Tasmanian nature and fresh air, local produce and small-group comfort.

Groups usually feature four to eight guests and allow plenty of time to enjoy the scenery and connect with the environment, says admin and trek leader Joel Badcock. A fresh Tasmanian lunch and refreshments are included, served on the property.

The day walking track covers around 7km and dis located just 15 minutes from Port Sorell, 30 minutes from Devonport and 60 minutes from Launceston. Days walks run for approximately five hours and feature wildlife-watching opportunities. 

Each walk is led by a local guide specialising in flora, fauna and natural history so walkers can discover the region’s geology, ecosystems and cultural storylines.

They are billed as being suitable for guests aged 12 and over, with flexible cancellation up to two days before departure.

The property is a luxury bush estate - twice the size of Monaco - but with no chance of getting lost or stranded. 

Bakers also offers a range of multi-day experiences including accommodation with all meals, as part of public or private groups. There is access to a sauna, and outdoor baths.

If weather makes it unsafe or unpleasant to walk, there is the option to reschedule or receive a full refund.

See https://bakerswalkingco.au/day-walks/

New look and menu for a pioneering vineyard restaurant

 

An old favourite will have a brand new look when wine lovers visit Crittenden Estate on the Mornington Peninsula this summer.

The Crittenden family has been a leader in the wine and tourism space for over four decades, with Garry Crittenden a pioneer of planting Italian grapes in Australia. 

Now the Crittendens have transformed one of Victoria's most beautiful vineyard - and waterfront -  restaurants with a new chef in charge. 

Crittenden Restaurant, first opened in 1988, and is now back completely under the control of the founding family. 

Garry and and the late Margaret Crittenden helped create Mornington’s wine scene. When Garry planted his first vines in Dromana, he doubled the Peninsula’s wine plantings overnight, and a decade later, Margaret’s idea to offer food kickstarted one of the region’s very first winery restaurants.

Their children, Zoe and Rollo Crittenden, have grown into the business: Rollo as a very talented winemaker and GM; Zoe as director of marketing. 

When Margaret fell ill 20 years ago, the family leased her restaurant to an outside operator. Last year, Zoe and Rollo brought the business back and embarked on a complete ground-up redevelopment that cost over $1 million. 

In charge is executive Chef Brunno Melo, a Brazilian-born, Le Cordon Bleu–trained culinary leader with over 15 years of experience transforming kitchens and dining destinations, who was previously at Audrey's.

His menus celebrate local, seasonal produce. 

The menu aims to balance bold flavours with accessible dishes, featuring Josper-grilled swordfish with smoked maple chimichurri, and a half roast chicken with harissa and chargrilled corn. Both sound delicious. Or perhaps a Raven’s Creek free-range, dry-aged Tomahawk pork chop. 

Ingredients from neighbours like Torello Farm feature across the menu. 

“It’s a ground-up renovation and a complete remake and rethink on the space… very much in keeping with the style of food and, of course, the wine that we want to present to visitors,” says Rollo Crittenden. 

Guests can enjoy a four-course feast paired with estate wines, graze on small plates of fresh seafood on the deck, or share a charcuterie platter under the umbrellas on the terrace. 

Something for everyone. 

“This new space definitely reflects the way we want people to experience food and wine at Crittenden today,” adds Rollo. 

“We’re honoured to continue Mum’s legacy and her commitment to genuine hospitality,” says Zoe Crittenden. "Our new space is both modern and welcoming - designed to showcase fresh, thoughtful dishes that pair beautifully with our cool-climate wines.”

The Crittenden cellar door next door remains the home of the family’s excellent pinot noir, chardonnay, and savagnin, while the Crittenden Lakeside Villas offer waterside retreats among the vines.

I haven't visited the new eatery yet - but it is certainly on my list over the next few months. I have very fond memories of previous visits. 

Crittenden Restaurant serves lunch seven days and dinner on Friday and Saturday evenings.

See www.crittendenwines.com.au

Watermans brings tastes of the Levant to Barangaroo

The burgeoning Barangaroo gourmet precinct in Sydney has been boosted by the arrival of newcomer Watermans, an eastern Mediterranean restaurant from The Bentley Restaurant Group.

Operated by leading Australian hospitality operators Nick Hildebrandt and Brent Savage, Watermans has chef Darryl Martin (formerly of Barzaari) at the helm.

Watermans is located within the recently completed One Sydney Harbour Lendlease development in Barangaroo, just metres from Sydney Harbour.

“2025 has been a huge year for The Bentley Group," said sommelier and co-owner Hildebrandt. "We started the year with the launch of Eleven Barrack and we’re ending the year back in Barangaroo with Watermans, right in time for summer.”

The 120-seat venue houses two pergolas wrapped in mature greenery, with a "modern-luxe interior featuring timber veneer finishes, bespoke lighting and an open kitchen with a custom-made wood-fired grill and oven".

Co-owner and chef Savage said: “I’m thrilled to welcome Darryl into The Bentley Group family. The menu for Watermans is inspired by the cuisine of the Levant and highlights the best of Australian produce.

"It has a strong emphasis on vegetable-forward dishes, and it’s been fun to collaborate with Darryl, whose cooking I’ve long admired, especially his work at Barzaari.”

Highlight dishes from the opening menu include: hummus with green zhoug and mint; labneh with salted cucumber, pomegranate and lemon jam; raw tuna with watermelon, yoghurt and fig leaf oil; wood-fired scallop with pomegranate, brown butter and sesame praline; and whole wood-fired flounder with broad beans and smoked tomato savoro.

For meat lovers, there is roasted chicken with with preserved lemon, parsley and green olive; and lamb shoulder with harissa, black lime, cinnamon and toum.

Desserts include halva ice cream, date granita, must vinegar, and brik bougatsa, cherry jam and aniseed sorbet.

Watermans is open daily from noon for lunch and dinner at R1/88 Barangaroo Avenue, Barangaroo, Sydney. See https://www.bentleyrestaurantgroup.com.au/watermanssydney

Gippsland to welcome a new gourmet festival

Gippsland is to welcome a new spring gourmet festival.

Eat Drink Play Gippsland will make its debut in South Gippsland on Saturday, October 18.

The event promises to bring together the Victorian region’s best food, wine, beer, distillers, restauranteurs and producers together for afull day of celebration that will rolls into an evening festival of open-air music featuring acts including the Melbourne Ska Orchestra and Emma Donovan.

The event in Leongatha’s Railway Precinct is being guided by Dan Sims, the brains behind Pinot Palooza and Mould, as well as The Hills Are Alive Group, run by lifelong locals Aidan and Rhett McLaren.

Guests can expect bites from local favourites like Trulli, Hogget Kitchen, and Messmates, plus pours from winemakers including Fleet, The Wine Farm, Dirty Three, Patrick Sullivan, Xavier Wine and Lightfoot Wines.

Gurneys Cider, Loch Distillery, and Sailors Grave Brewing will also feature, alongside dairy delights from Gippsland Jersey, Prom Country Cheese, and Loch Cheese Merchant.

Day session tickets are $35, running from 11am to 5pm.

Night session tickets are $49 per person and run from 6pm to 10pm.

“We’re looking forward to seeing the inaugural Eat Drink Play Gippsland festival come to life” says South Gippsland Shire Council Mayor John Schelling.

“This event is a celebration of our region’s talented producers, makers and creatives, and a really great opportunity to showcase everything we have to offer. 

“From world-class wine and food, music and culture, it’s a chance for locals and visitors alike to experience Gippsland’s offerings and hospitality in one unforgettable weekend. South Gippsland Shire Council is proud to support an event that shines a spotlight on our region and brings our community together in such a vibrant celebration at the terrific Leongatha Railway precinct.”

More info at eatdrinkplaygippsland.com.au

Fishy business: Rick Stein to open flagship Sydney restaurant

Star seafood chef and TV personality Rick Stein has announced that he will be opening his Australian flagship restaurant at Coogee Beach in Sydney later this year.

British-born Stein and his Australian publicist wife Sarah have unveiled plans for Rick Stein at Coogee Beach.

Known for his ethos of "fresh seafood, simply prepared" Stein will locate his new 224-seat eatery at the recently announced InterContinental Sydney Coogee Beach, and the space will include the signature restaurant, bar dining and courtyard terrace.

The new restaurant will join the couple's Mollymook and Port Stephens locations that they opened together in 2009 and 2018 respectively, 

“Coogee Beach is yet another stunning coastal location for our Australian restaurant portfolio - perched by the sea and full of the laid-back charm we’ve come to love so much here," Stein said.

"It’s especially meaningful for me as my wife Sas grew up in Sydney, so opening a restaurant in her hometown makes this venture all the more special for us both. 

“There’s an abundance of top-quality seafood in Australia and we’ll be championing local, seasonal produce with the benefit of accessing the biggest fish market in the southern hemisphere. 

"We’ll continue to utilise the relationships we’ve built in our regional locations to source that same produce in Sydney. It's the best of both worlds.”

The menu will seafood including mahi mahi caught off the coast of Nelson Bay, Stockton pipis from Port Stephens, line-caught mackerel from Ulladulla and Nelson Bay blue swimmer crab for Stein’s signature Singapore chilli crab.

The venue will also offer fish and chips, prepared in the traditional British style complete with mushy peas and hand-cut chips.

The new venture will be in collaboration with Australian partners Salter Brothers, who acquired Bannisters Group in 2024.

Paul Salter, managing director of Salter Brothers, said: "We are very excited to be bringing Rick Stein to Coogee Beach and build on our existing partnership.  I can't think of a better location in Sydney to showcase his distinctive, yet approachable, fresh seafood experience."

Rick Stein at Coogee Beach is scheduled to open in November 2025.

Why this gourmet festival is vital for small community

It's idiosyncratic, fun and thirst inducing.

One of Australia's longest-running food and wine festivals, Grampians Grape Escape, returns to Halls Gap from May 2-4 for a weekend of food, wines, and entertainment.

In the foothills of Grampians National Park, the festival features close to 100 exhibitors, including the region's winemakers, produce, craft beer, distillery creations and artisanal goods.

Guests can enjoy masterclasses, live cooking demonstrations and a music line-up starting with all local talent on opening night: Feel Good Friday.

Festival Highlights will include the chance to sample wines from over 30 local wineries from regional icons Mount Langi Ghiran to new-wave makers Black & Ginger (top image). The Barrique Auction returns with a 2023 Shiraz blended by winemaker Jacob Parton from Best's Wines.

Cooking demonstrations will be conducted by local talent Dean Sibthorp (Mount William Station), alongside Masterchef alumni Justine Schofield and Dani Venn.

Regional producers will include new business Grampians Vinegar, Grampians Olive Co, Kerrie's Kreations and Wimmera Grain Store.


Regional events like Grampians Grape Escape are crucial for communities recovering from natural disasters, including the recent bushfires in the Grampians National Park.

With small businesses facing income losses and fewer visitors to the region over the summer period, festivals provide an essential economic boost.

“Grampians Grape Escape is about more than just food and wine," says festival director Kate Kirkpatrick.

"It's a celebration of community and resilience. After the continuing challenges of the Pomonal and Grampians National Park bushfires, we're grateful to offer an event that brings people together, supports local businesses and showcases the best of the region.”

Tickets are on sale now at www.grampiansgrapeescape.com.au. Options include general admission, tasting tickets and three-day passes, along with local shuttle buses.

Change of direction for Ballarat gourmet hotspot

It is all change at Vesta x Jigs, the signature dining room at Ballarat’s award-winning Hotel Canberra. 

The restaurant has shifted focus to an a la carte offering as of this week, a move away from the previous six- or eight-course degustation menus celebrating 100% Victorian produce.

Executive chef Jigs Liwanag (ex Rockpool) has now adopted a contemporary a la carte menu from Wednesday to Saturdays in the dining room and bar. 

“We wanted to broaden our offer to the Ballarat community,” said general manager Pete Dillon. 

“We have been very focused on using 100% Victorian produce in our degustation-only menus, which has been exciting for our team, but we have to adapt to the changing demands of our customers.” 

The menu will still feature local produce from small artisan producers but the kitchen is moving to a zero-waste philosophy. 

“I love what Victoria has to offer with incredible produce and amazing culinary adventurers, but with an a la carte menu, I can be more creative and celebrate the very best of the seasons, if that has to come from a little further afield, like South Australian whiting or oysters from New South Wales," the chef says. 

Playing to his Filipino heritage and drawing on his eight years of experience cooking on a private yacht, Liwanag is excited to flex his creative muscles in a different way.

“Every place I have visited has provided me a little inspiration," he says. "I can meld influences from Italy and China together in one dish, I can use recipes my mum and grandma gave me, and I can pay homage to the street food of the Philippines, all at the same time.”

So think dishes like ceviche of kingfish with pickled strawberry and citrus dressing ($20, top image) and duck, elderberry pickle, pea puree and blackberry jus ($30, second image). There is also a six-course "feed me" menu for $120.

A beverage list with a focus on artisan, craft and alternative wine varietals has been designed to match the restaurant offer, with a small "cellar only" list also available.

Vesta x Jigs and Bobbys Bar at Hotel Canberra is at 812 Macarthur Street, Ballarat Central, serving the new menu from Wednesday to Saturday from 6pm. Bookings are highly recommended.

See www.hotelcanberra.au

New role for star chef Kuruvita

 

Veteran chef and cookbook author Peter Kuruvita has been appointed culinary director for The Curated Plate food and drink festival, which will be held from July 25 to August 3, 2025.

The festival celebrates the best of the Sunshine Coast's local produce, restaurants, chefs, and craft brewers and distillers, from the ocean to the Hinterland. 

Launched originally in 2019, The Curated Plate has grown substantially over the years, attracting more than 7000 attendees to 85 events in 2024. 

Former Flying Fish chef Kuruvita has over 40 years of experience as a chef, restaurateur, author, TV presenter, culinary tour leader, and spice merchant. 

He said he was keen to start talking to local operators about their concepts for The Curated Plate.

“I’m excited to become more involved in The Curated Plate in 2025, particularly to provide guidance and share my knowledge and skills with local chefs and producers, if that’s what they would like,” he said.

“I hope to influence and guide the festival program to ensure we curate the best possible festival of events to showcase both local chef talent and produce and promote the Sunshine Coast as a fantastic food and drink destination.”

Sunshine Coast mayor Rosanna Natoli said the festival created opportunities that translated the region’s exceptional produce into memorable food experiences.

“We are looking to create a program full of diverse experiences for locals and visitors with extraordinary events that take place in unique settings, from our farms to beaches, from our breweries to distilleries,” she said.

“Food and agribusiness has been identified as a key high-value industry in our production economy, which is one of the six high value economies identified for growth as we target a $33 billion economy by 2033.’’

The event program is currently being developed with more details to be announced in the new year.

Further information: https://thecuratedplate.com.au/

New Saffire chef exploring Tasmania's gourmet bounty

It can be a daunting task taking over from a star chef - but that is the role Toby Raley has accepted at Tasmania’s leading luxury lodge Saffire Freycinet.

Raley has been named executive chef in a rise through the ranks from his previous role as sous chef under the property’s former executive chef Paddy Prenter, who built an outstanding reputation at Saffire.

Raley has also worked as sous chef at Sydney’s Quay Restaurant working alongside executive chef Peter Gilmore. A former winner of the Brett Graham culinary scholarship, he has worked in the UK at the Fat Duck and with Brett Graham at The Ledbury.

He is excited by the diverse bounty of local ingredients available to him, including Wagyu beef from Robbins Island, Springfield Farm venison, Long Name Farm ham, fresh vegetables, organic dairy items and fresh seafood.

“I love fishing and over my time here at Saffire I’ve started to learn more about the surrounding marine
environment, and how we can best work alongside it whilst also protecting its future,” Raley said.

“Guests at Saffire can expect beautiful seafood with oysters coming from Dolphin Sands, Tasmanian rock lobster from our surrounding waters, and octopus from the north of the state at Stanley.

“We’re also working with a new supplier of sustainably sourced abalone which is hand-dived by a small, local not-for-profit organisation with proceeds going back to support First Nations Tasmanians. And in season, we work with divers in Coles Bay to source sea urchins, which are a delicious delicacy on the plate but a threat to vitally important kelp forests in the region.”

A new kitchen garden at Saffire sees Raley working closely with local nursery Billy Blue House to source native edibles, fresh greens and herbs that are well suited to the Freycinet coast.

“I love the freshness and vibrancy of the produce available to us in Tasmania, literally on the doorstep," Raley says.

"Tasmania is a relatively small island, yet there is such a large variety and diversity of fresh produce, supplied by small-scale farmers and producers who are passionate about their craft and who each play a part in this close-knit community. I couldn’t think of a better place to be.”

Saffire Freycinet is a member of the Luxury Lodges of Australia collection.

Former excecutive chef Prenter is working on a new project in Tasmania.

See www.saffire-freycinet.com.au

Culinary winds of change blow through Byron Bay

 

The restaurant winds of change are blowing through Byron Bay. 

Barrio Byron Bay is no more. 

But welcome to Nourishing Habitat (previously Barrio Byron Bay) which is set to offer three distinctive dining venues under one roof.

Nourishing Habitat is a project by restaurateurs Utku Ayhan of Foxy Luu's Byron Bay and Sefa Kitchen in Sydney, and Nicholas Degryse of Pure Hospitality Group in Sydney.

The three venues will open one month apart but all will be "dedicated to local produce, community, and sustainability".

The duo is working with interior designer and creative director Jason Grant to transform the space.

The first of the trio of restaurants to open is Commune Canteen which opened this week. 

Inspired by the home-cooked meals found in Mediterranean communities, Commune Canteen offers a rotating menu with "colourful salads, hot slow-cooked meals, hearty soups, and in-house baked breads". 

Embracing a canteen-style dining experience, Commune Canteen encourages guests to customise their meals using a fill-up tray system with three or five compartments, designed for mixing and matching.

They will also host communal lunches, featuring a long table in the Habitat courtyard, with shared plates. 

The executive chef is Thomas Ahern, a Byron Bay native,who has worked at Rae's on Wategos and for Marco Pierre White and Jamie Oliver. 

 Image: Jillian Gia McHugh  

Elevated pub grub offers tasty flavours of Tasmania

Looking for excellent pub grub just a short stroll from the waterfront in Hobart?

Let me point you in the direction of the venerable The Telegraph Hotel, which dates back to 1858 but has a thoroughly modern food and drink offering.

The Telegraph is something of a Hobart icon that has been revitalised under new ownership. The first floor dining room is bright and airy with buzzy vibe.

The Telegraph has been a much-loved meeting place in Hobart ; hosting local workers, politicians, and crews celebrating after the Sydney to Hobart yacht race, 

The upper floors, including the rooftop bar, looking out over Franklin Wharf and the busy waterfront and fishing harbour. 

The Telegraph recently launched its winter menu with a range of winter warmers including Master Stock pork hock and charred lambs ribs. Local Tasmanian produce is very much the focus. 

Other new menu items include Spring Bay mussels, octopus skewers (above),  King Dory, and pork rib eye coletta. And, of course, there is a chance to sample the quintessential Tasmanian winter treat: a scallop pie. 

We started with some excellently salty and crunchy whitebait (below) with a punchy wasabi mayonnaise {$19.20), and the Stanley octopus skewers ($22.50) with a Middle Eastern accent, served with red pepper puree and chickpea crumb. 

Both portions were generous and full flavoured. 

Then on to a couple of pub staples; dishes that define pub dining. And someone in the kitchen here clearly knows what they are doing.  

First a Cape Grim beef-powered hamburger with cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, pickles, ketchup and mustard in a milk bun, served with crispy fries ($27.20). Spot on. And it arrived nicely hot.

Also, a huge rump steak sandwich ($27.20, below) served on sourdough with lettuce, tomato and smoked aoili. A classic. And a perfect hearty winter pick me up. .

Staying with the local theme we had a Cascade Lager (brewed just a few Ks away) and a glass of Milton Rosé from the East Coast.

We had no room left for dessert, but the winter menu showcases a Vegan-friendly cake.

There are plenty of vegetarian dishes on offer should you be that way inclined. Think pumpkin arancini. cauliflower gnocchi or sumac-roasted beets.

We were served by two young but very hospitable servers; I hope the hotel looks after them as talent is hard to find right now. And even harder to hold on to.

All in all, a very satisfactory experience whether you are a local or a visitor. 

The Telegraph is at 19 Morrison St, Hobart. See https://telegraphhotelhobart.com.au/

# The writer was hosted by The Telegraph  

Newcastle Food Month returns bigger than ever

Over three difficult years, Newcastle Food Month has become a major success story. And with travel now back to normal, the event will return in April, 2024, for its fourth edition.

The food festival will again feature the posh pop-up picnic Le Diner En Blanc Newcastle (above) with more than 1,000 guests again expected to frock up for the 2024 event to be held in a secret location on April 6.

The month-long program will kick off on the weekend of Easter 2024 and takes in the New South Wales school holidays as well as the Anzac Day break at the end of the month.

Among the highlights will be those that feature wine, beer, gin, whisky, cocktails, music and cheese.

Festival goers will be able to dine in hatted restaurants and enjoy degustations with French, Italian, Thai, seafood and cocktail themes.

Roundhouse at Crystalbrook Kingsley, The Flotilla and its new offshoot Vecina, Humbug, Harrisons, Jana, The Elementa, Foghorn Brewery and Modus will all be hosting events.

Plate Date also returns, with an anticipated 50 dining establishments offering a brunch, lunch or dinner, including a beverage for only $30.

“It’s exciting to see so many early entries into the program, and we are well ahead of where we have been in previous years in planning," says organiser Louise Maher. "There is already something for everyone who likes eating out, and on any budget.”

“Over the past three years we have enticed thousands of Novocastrians to dine out in our fabulous restaurants, and this will continue.

"Last year more than 80 businesses were involved in Newcastle Food Month and that’s a stat we are really proud of, keeping our economy focused on the great hospitality the region is known for.

"We are also committed to expanding our marketing and promotion into the Central Coast and Sydney to draw an increasing number of overnight visitors. In years to come we will turn our attention to the likes of Melbourne and Brisbane, to take advantage of our connections through Newcastle Airport.”

The program launch will take place on February 7. Keep an eye on www.newcastlefoodmonth.com.au

Meet Tasmania's brand-new cellar door restaurant

Craigie Knowe is the oldest vineyard on Tasmania's East Coast - first planted with vines back in 1979.

It is also the location of Tasmania's newest vineyard restaurant, which opened just before the new year. 

Vigneron Glenn Travers reports that chef Anthony Fiori will be serving up Mediterranean-influenced cuisine to accompany Craigie Knowe's handcrafted wines.

Flora’s features Med-inspired dishes using local Tasmanian produce.

The menu will showcase lamb raised on the historic estate and some vegetables grown on the property.

The food line-up will be finalised shortly. But for the opening think starters like antipasti platters, saffron arancini balls, a trio of dips with bread, or fresh local oysters.

Mains will include orange and brandy-braised duck leg, lamb and coconut curry, and blue eye trevalla on a carrot puree.

See https://craigieknowe.com.au/ for full details.

Margaret River has a new dining destination

Heading for Margaret River?

A new restaurant with a positive pedigree has opened its doors on the main street of the township.

The former owners of now closed Arimia Estate - Evan Hayter (above) and Ann Spencer - are behind the new venture.

Described as "the next incarnation of Arimia, but distinctly different,” the 35-seat eatery will be open for dinner Wednesdays to Saturdays.

What will stay the same is growing and sourcing high-quality, local, organic produce "from suppliers who cared deeply for the land" including high-end West Australian ingredients like abalone, Waygu beef, marron and uni (sea urchin).

The food offering is primarily à la carte with a "trust the chef" set menu also available.

Menu listings are sharp and to the point: carrot and seaweed, perhaps, crab salad, brioche and caviar or 
Wagyu, lardo and cabbage (below). 

Or maybe bbq butterflied whole prawns, squid and sobrasada sauce; saffron risotto, poached mussels; or dry-aged pork chop, sumac aioli. 

“The approach will be seasonal, refined dining… but the mood will be darker, more intimate,” says executive chef Hayter.

“Guests would come back to Arimia because it stood for something”, says Spencer. “Evan is deeply passionate about where his ingredients come from - how they’re grown and reared, and ensuring they’re sourced from like-minded producers who share our values.

“We forged a unique partnership at Arimia, and overcame a lot of challenges. de’sendent is the evolution of an important story, and represents our determination to share our dining philosophy with the world.” 

On the spelling of de’sendent, Hayter said that Arimia was a mash-up of Spencer’s daughters' names but was often misspelled.

“We’ve continued that tradition by deliberately misspelling de’sendent. The apostrophe’s just to mess with people.” Hmm.

The venue will be adults only and will also be available for private dining/exclusive use subject to availability.

Reservations at desendent.com.

Change of culinary direction at Tower Lodge

 

There's a new chef, a new menu and a new name for the restaurant at Hunter Valley luxury retreat Tower Lodge.

It is farewell to Sebastian - the short-lived Spanish-themed eatery - and hello to what will simply be known as the restaurant at Tower Lodge.

Much-travelled chef Anthony Fullerton is the new man on the pans after being appointed head chef of the Hope Estate Group.

Both Tower Lodge and Hope Estate - with its cellar door, distillery, craft brewery and concert amphitheatre - are owned by the Hope family, 

Fullerton will focus on Hunter Valley produce, including beef and greens grown on the family’s properties, alongside produce sourced from local small farms and suppliers.

Fullerton was most recently known for having opened the acclaimed Bull & Bell Steakhouse in Griffith, and being named  Australian Hotels Association Australian Chef of the Year in 2022. 

The Hope family has its own cattle farm in the Barrington Valley farm in the Upper Hunter, which are then brought to the pastures adjacent to Hope Estate for a 40-day grain-based feed up.

Fullerton is keen to introduce a dry-aging facility onsite and to try raising different breeds of beef and lambs for diversity. He is keen to build a house-made charcuterie line and also has plans for a smokehouse.

“With the Hunter’s rich and diverse food bowl delivering such a wide variety of premium produce, we are all about celebrating the products themselves – we let the food do the talking and add sauces and salts, as well as side dishes to really allow the hero produce to shine,” he said.

“At Tower Lodge restaurant we prefer to offer shared plates to dedicate each course to a whole cut of beef, fish or cut of lamb, and if creates both a real sense of conviviality and a spirit of generosity.” 

For bookings and info see www.towerlodge.com.au or call (02) 4998 7022. 

Image: Jonathan Carroll

Marketing: telling it like it isn't

Can we just stop with the marketing nonsense?

I know businesses have to promote themselves in these testing times, but can you please not all say the same thing.

I reckon around 80% of the marketing emails I get from restaurants and their PRs say something along the lines of "the chef is passionate about championing local and seasonal produce".

Then you take a look at the menu and see seafood from thousands of miles away, vegetables that are out of season etc.

And eat at many of these establishments and you might detect pre-prepared ingredients from many miles away - even other countries. 

And often the wine lists in such "local champions" will feature dozens of wines from France, Italy or New Zealand

Winemakers also get in on the act.

Here's a popular one: "Our wines are 100% Vegan friendly".

Well let me tell you something, No wine can be 100% Vegan friendly, no matter how hard the wine producer tries.

There is the little matter of MOG (matter other than grapes). It is the wine industry's dirty little secret.

When grapes come into a winery they come along with a whole lot of protein. Think caterpillars, rats, snakes, spiders, mice, insects and other bugs, even bird's nests.

All of which live happily in and among the vines and go into the crusher/de-stemmer along with leaves, dirt and other undesirables. 

Some will get through the process no matter how rigorous the table sorting. A small percentage will survive filtering - leaving just a little meat in your Vegan wine.

There are dozens of other examples, so could we all please try to just be a little more realistic with our bold claims?

Image: Jessica Lee, Scop.io