Victorian wine pioneer dies at age 86

Victorian wine pioneer Graeme Leith, co-founder of Passing Clouds, died this week at the age of 86.

His death was anmounced on the winery Facebook page. 

Leith, co-founder and winemaker until 2007, will be celebrated at Passing Clouds Winery in Musk, outside Daylesford, on May 15 at 3pm.

Former electrician and polymath Leith and his partner Sue Mackinnon hand-planted Passing Clouds at Kingower, outside Bendigo, in the early 70s. 

It proved a problematic site, and he and his son Cameron later transferred the whole operation to cool-climate Musk, in the Macedon Ranges.

The Passing Clouds website says: "In the early sixties he worked his way around Europe, finally tasting some superb wine in Italy, and the dye was cast.

"In semi-retirement Graeme finally put pen to paper and began documenting all his stories. In 2015 “Passing Clouds A Winemaker’s Journey” was published.

Leith retired to the Musk vineyard. He was a nice man.  

Passing Clouds is now operated by Cameron Leith and his wife Marion and family and is currently up for sale.   

Image: Passing Clouds, Facebook

Meet the icon winemaker who refuses to retire

Garry Crittenden has been a hugely influential player in the Australian wine industry over multiple decades.

He was one of the pioneers in the Mornington Peninsula, an early champion of alternative grape varieties, and one of the visionaries who planted Tasmania's icon Tolpuddle Vineyard.

One thing that Garry is not so good at, however, is retirement.

Crittenden handed over the reins of Crittenden Estate to his son Rollo and daughter Zoe several years ago, but he still can't resist making at least one wine each year.

His passion project, which sees him produce a small batch Mornington pinot noir each year, is now in its seventh year.

Each vintage has been a chance for Garry to not only showcase his winemaking expertise but also to tap into his love of art - with the various releases adorned by eye-catching labels.

Garry was kind enough to send me a vertical of the wines, and very impressive they are, too.

From the first “The Big Chair” to the new release - the 2023 Air Like Wine Pinot Noir ($55) - they are all the works of an artist. There are vintage variations, sure, but these are creations that belong to the same collection. 

"When I moved from Melbourne to the Mornington Peninsula 60 years ago my profoundest impression was the bright impact of Mother Nature, forever bountiful," Crittenden recalled in a recent note to me - we have known each for well over three decades. 

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"The air was fresh and clean like a good wine, “air like wine”, the beaches a joy to walk on and the hinterland almost eternally green. I didn’t take me long to seek to indulge my passion in wine and plant some grapes.

"The rest as they say is history."

So there you have it. A man who has had a profound impact on wine history in both Tasmania and on the Mornington Peninsula. 

Crafted from estate-grown fruit, these cool-climate pinots pinot noirs offer a glimpse of the artistic mind behind the labels. 

See https://www.crittendenwines.com.au/