Meet the icon winemaker who refuses to retire

Garry Crittenden has been a hugely influential player in the Australian wine industry over multiple decades.

He was one of the pioneers in the Mornington Peninsula, an early champion of alternative grape varieties, and one of the visionaries who planted Tasmania's icon Tolpuddle Vineyard.

One thing that Garry is not so good at, however, is retirement.

Crittenden handed over the reins of Crittenden Estate to his son Rollo and daughter Zoe several years ago, but he still can't resist making at least one wine each year.

His passion project, which sees him produce a small batch Mornington pinot noir each year, is now in its seventh year.

Each vintage has been a chance for Garry to not only showcase his winemaking expertise but also to tap into his love of art - with the various releases adorned by eye-catching labels.

Garry was kind enough to send me a vertical of the wines, and very impressive they are, too.

From the first “The Big Chair” to the new release - the 2023 Air Like Wine Pinot Noir ($55) - they are all the works of an artist. There are vintage variations, sure, but these are creations that belong to the same collection. 

"When I moved from Melbourne to the Mornington Peninsula 60 years ago my profoundest impression was the bright impact of Mother Nature, forever bountiful," Crittenden recalled in a recent note to me - we have known each for well over three decades. 

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"The air was fresh and clean like a good wine, “air like wine”, the beaches a joy to walk on and the hinterland almost eternally green. I didn’t take me long to seek to indulge my passion in wine and plant some grapes.

"The rest as they say is history."

So there you have it. A man who has had a profound impact on wine history in both Tasmania and on the Mornington Peninsula. 

Crafted from estate-grown fruit, these cool-climate pinots pinot noirs offer a glimpse of the artistic mind behind the labels. 

See https://www.crittendenwines.com.au/

Crittenden recognised for vineyard initiatives

When you visit Crittenden Estate on the Mornington Peninsula, you are immediately struck by the attention to detail in the vineyards.

No surprise, then, that Rollo Crittenden (above) of Crittenden Estate has been awarded the 2023 Dr. Allan Antcliff Vineyard of the Year Award by regional body Mornington Peninsula Wine.

The award recognises Crittenden’s sustainable growing vineyard practices and wine quality.

In its second year, this biennial event, supported by benefactors and founders of the wine industry on the Mornington Peninsula, Sarah and the late Bails Myer, acknowledges the work of exceptional viticulturists and their commitment to environmental excellence.

The award is in recognition of principal research scientist in vine physiology and ampelography Dr Allan Antcliff, AM., whose work was pivotal to the development of the Australian wine industry.

The judging panel led by Dr Samantha Scarratt praised Crittenden for his approach to soil ecology through extensive compost research and development and to provide the balance and biodiversity necessary for a thriving ecosystem.

Crittenden focusses heavily on the bacteria and fungi present in compost to support the health in the soil and root systems putting nutrients back into soil that is depleted during the growing and ripening phase.

“What set Crittenden apart in a very close competition, was its extensive research into, and application of, different practices in the vineyard," Scarratt said. "It is something the team there have been doing for quite a while now with excellent results.

“Overall, I was extremely impressed with the level of the submissions and excited for the future in the Mornington Peninsula. Through my work, I have travelled to many wine regions and looking through the lens of the six vineyards judged, it feels there is a young vibrant wine community that is taking a very mindful approach to viticulture.”

Rollo Crittenden said: “Going through the submission process was immensely beneficial to Crittenden as it gave us the opportunity to pause and reflect on every aspect of our viticultural process.

"The interaction with the three judges, given their wealth of collective experience, has brought great value to our business, and resulted in further consideration and evolution of our processes.”

The other finalists were Quealy Winemakers and Portsea Estate.

Mornington Peninsula Wine CEO Olivia Barrie said the region has a dedicated focus on sustainability and on growing for the future.

“We want to ensure we are at the forefront of sustainable wine growing and caring for our local environment.” Barrie said.

“By rewarding and naming those that are doing a great job out there in the vineyards, planning for future generations, it creates a buzz among the community and allows knowledge and initiatives to be shared amongst peers, which can only result in an overall improvement in the region.”