Shardonnay anyone? Brits keen on wine names for their kids

Wine-loving Brits remain keen on giving their children vinous-related names - but their spelling is not always spot on. 

An analysis by trade newsletter the drinks business found that Margaux is now the most popular wine-related name for a baby, having overtaken Chardonnay, which grew in popularity after a character of that name starred when Footballers’ Wives aired on TV in 2002.

db analysed three decades of birth registrations in England and Wales looking for names borrowed from a grape, a region, a style of wine or the label of a famous bottle. 

Where parents had spelt the same name in different ways, they pooled the variations and counted them as one name, so the six spellings of Chardonnay and the three of Sherry each appear only once in the rankings. 

Margaux comes out on top with 922 registrations, every one of them a girl. The name barely registered in the late 1990s, when it was given to four babies in 1996, but it climbed steadily through the 2010s and reached a high of 102 in 2024 before easing to 88 last year.

It is also the French spelling of Margot, of course, so db says it is impossible to say how many parents had the Médoc commune or its first-growth wine in mind.

 
Chardonnay, in second place with 631 registrations across its six spellings, came in as Chardonay, Shardonnay, Chardonnai and other bizarre spellings. 

Sherry was third with across Sherry, Sherrie and Sherri, followed by Shiraz, Tawny, Cristal, Syrah, Tuscany, Petrus and Champagne. 

There were also three unfortunate boys named Dionysus after the Greek God of Wine. That's cruel. 

Meet an Australian wine label with a Japanese accent

There is a small wine producer in Victoria that our correspondent Rick Allen reckons is worth keeping an eye on. 

It’s called Shimora - a blend of surnames and, chances are, you haven’t heard of it, he writes.

It’s a boutique wine label still in its infancy, but one to watch.

Based high up at 760 metres in the Macedon Ranges – “it’s one of Macedon’s highest vineyards” - Shimora is the brainchild of two highly driven people, husband and wife team Phil Moraghan (above) and Dr Rika Shimo.

If the Moraghan name is familiar, yes, it’s the same Phil Moraghan who was co-founder and winemaker at Curly Flat, whose classy Macedon wines in the early 2000s gained immediate attention. 

Japanese-born Rika came to wine later but is now a qualified winemaker and viticulturist. 

She’s very much an over-achiever … passing her wine studies with distinctions, also a former linguistics academic, art lover and classical pianist.

Their goal: to own their own vineyard and wine brand, and make the best cool-climate chardonnay and pinot noir they possibly can.

It should be noted that in 2026 Macedon was officially measured as Australia’s coldest wine region - and Shimora is in the coldest part of it. 

‘Cool climate’ barely does it justice.

Right now they are two vintages in, both very small at just a couple of hundred cases, but things are bubbling along nicely.

“We looked at more than 100 sites over several years before we landed on this one,” Moraghan said. “It’s a beauty.” 

The vineyard at Little Hampton, seven kilometres from Trentham, had to pass a lot of tests, none more so than being frost free.

“Frost free was crucial, but topography and soil quality were also key issues,” he said.

“The soil is excellent and had a lot of organic matter, but we still spent a lot of time improving it even further before we planted.”

Today there are 11 acres under vine, mostly pinot noir, but also chardonnay.

“We’ll stick with those. The only possible addition could be a small planting of riesling. We both love the variety, Rika especially.”

Moraghan believes in recent years climate change has made many cool climate pinots bigger and darker.

“I don’t want that," he says. "I’m after classic iron fist in a velvet glove. More delicate, light red pinots you can almost see through, but with loads of complexity.

“And those leaner, flinty chardonnays with white peach and citrus.”

If Curly Flat is any example, he’ll get it all right.

There is a second label called Rika & Me ($30) that uses Yarra Valley fruit, designed to offer bang for your buck. And they most certainly do.

And interestingly, they have also visited Japan and made koshu wine from the Yamanashi Prefecture on Rika’s home island of Honshu, which are available through their new cellar door, which is open by appointment.

“Koshu is interesting, long living, citrusy; they remind me of Hunter semillons requiring time to develop their full potential,” Moraghan says. 

Winsor Dobbin reports: I did a vertical of the three whites last night - an interesting journey of progression. The 2016 Shimora Koshu is still fresh with similarities in style to melon de Bourgogne and albarino. 

The 2023 Rika & Me Yarra Chardonnay is clean and well made, but the 2024 Shimora Chardonnay, clever and considered, is the undoubted star of the show.

I'll try the reds shortly. 

See https://www.shimorawines.com.au/

# Rick Allen is the Hunter-based wine writer for the Newcastle Herald.

You'll need to be quick to snap up the new Tolpuddle releases; you might already be too late

Tolpuddle Vineyard has been one of Tasmania's great wine success stories, winning a swag of international awards and global acclaim for both its chardonnays and pinot noirs 

Planted back in 1988 by Garry Crittenden, Tony Jordan and the Casimaty family, Tolpuddle is actually an accidental success story. All the vines originally planted were intended for sparkling wines. But it is the site that stars over the clones. 

Since being purchased by Shaw+Smith duo Michael Hill Smith and Martin Shaw on a whim in 2011, the 32-hecrate Coal River Valley vineyard has become one of the most pampered in Australia. 

First under viticulturist/vineyard manager Carlos Souris, and now under former Oakridge vine whisperer Georgie Jacobs, Tolpuddle has being given impressive makeovers. 

From graftings to new plantings and new clones, this vineyard gets the full treatment. No vinous mani/pedis here. Nothing but the best. Constant attention. 

The soils are light silica over sandstone, perfect for high-quality chardonnay and pinot, but also very reflective of their growing seasons. Jacobs (below) describes 2025 as a "solid vintage" but once again attention to detail has paid dividends. 

All this is a precursor to the fact that the new-release 2025 Tolpuddle Chardonnay and 2025 Pinot Noir will be released to the public on October 1. And, as has become customary, it will be case of the quick and those who miss out. 

The wines will be available on allocation - and in some cases have already sold out. Winemaker Adam Wadewitz, one of Australia’s top winemaking talents, has delivered once again, as he should given the quality of the fruit.

The chardonnay is, as has become customary, world class. Feisty, intricate, textural, intense, concentrated but delicious and approachable, it will be much loved by Burgundy aficionados. 

All the elements come together despite its youth; freshness, coiled energy, citrus notes, minerality. Brilliant stuff. 

In the past, some Tolpuddle pinot noirs have been a bit arms and legs on release. The 2025 is one of the most complete I have seen at a young age. Classic dark cherry and wild strawberry notes for sure, but also some taut structure, deli and herbal hints and a winning approachability. There's some brambly elements, hints of spice, but, overall, elegance wins out.   

Both wines have an RRP of $118. See https://www.tolpuddlevineyard.com/ or beg and grovel at your local fine wine outlet. 

Images: Winsor Dobbin, Dearna Bond

New wine label for Kooyong/Port Phillip Estate

The Gjergja family has added a new label to its Port Phillip Estate, Kooyong and Quartier collection. 

The family purchased the Bellvale vineyard in Berrys Creek, South Gippsland, in early 2025 and is releasing the 2025 vintage releases.

Approximately 120 kilometres east of the winery on the Mornington Peninsula, this area of South Gippsland has potential for producing some of Australia’s finest pinot noir and chardonnay, the family believes. 

"We are honoured to become the custodians of this remarkable cool-climate site," managing director Marco Gjergja announced after the purchase from John and Athena Ellis. 

The 19-hecatare vineyard is located in the Tarwin River Valley and its north-facing, dry-grown, high-density vineyard lies at 165-195 metres above sea level on deep red loam of volcanic origin.

"Building on the strong foundations laid by John [Ellis] over the last 27 years, we look forward to progressing Bellvale’s legacy, propelling it into the future, and producing compelling pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot gris," the Gjergja family says. 

The Ellis family will retain the 2024 vintage wines with the new 2025 vintage wines released now for an RRP of $32-39. All are made by Tim Perrin

They are distributed by Negociants. The pinot gris is underwhelming. The chardonnay very good. The pinot noir the star. 

See www.portphillipestate.com.au  

All white on the night: surprising Kiwi wine stats

New Zealand wine is an economic powerhouse. 

Kiwi wines are exported to more than 100 countries and wine is New Zealand’s seventh-largest export. 

But the world isn't drinking much Central Otago pinot noir, or Hawke's Bay syrah. 

White wine accounts for approximately 95% of New Zealand’s global wine exports - an astonishing figure. Sauvignon blanc remains the country’s most exported variety, with pinot gris and chardonnay building up steam. 

Half the cash spent by Aussies on sauvignon blanc is on wine from New Zealand. That means Aussies drink more Kiwi savvy blanc than Aussie-produced savvy. 

Wine lovers worldwide are being invited to celebrate New Zealand’s white wines this May, marking three international wine days with a global salute. 

The Pour Yourself a Glass of New Zealand campaign will see tasting and activations around the globe. 

Timed to coincide with International Sauvignon Blanc Day (May 1), International Pinot Gris Day (May 17) and International Chardonnay Day (May 21 ), the campaign aims to shine a light on New Zealand’s signature white wine styles. 

“New Zealand has built a global reputation for producing refreshing, expressive, high‑quality white wines,” says Charlotte Read, general manager brand (what does that even mean?), New Zealand Winegrowers. 

“From sauvignon blanc to pinot gris and chardonnay, these wines reflect both the diversity of our regions and a modern approach to winemaking.”

Wine lovers are encouraged to join the celebration using #pouryourselfaglassofNZ, #greatwhitewinetoast, #whitewineemoji and #nzwine as social media hashtags.

For more info see www.nzwine.com/en/trade/glassofnz

The campaign also builds awareness ahead of Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand 2027, New Zealand’s flagship international wine event (February 2-4 2027). www.sauvignonnz.com. 

Elton John tickling the NOLO ivories

Veteran rock star Elton John has joined the celebrity drinks circus with the launch of a 0% blanc de blancs "wine"

The British singer-songwriter and his partner David Furnish have unveiled Elton John Zero Blanc de Blancs, a drink made from chardonnay grapes grown in Italy and made in Germany, industry website drinks business reported.

The beverage is being positioned as an alcohol-free alternative to Champagne, prosecco of cava and is being launched in the UK, including at Sainsbury’s supermarkets, priced at £10 (around $20).
.
The grapes from northern Italy have been sourced by Liberty Wines co-founder David Gleave MW, drinks business says, while it is made in Germany - which is hotspot for no-alcohol "wine".

Elton's new drinks is fermented but not de-alcoholised, putting in doubt whether it should be categorised as wine.

While most 0% products are created by taking a normal-strength wine and then removing the alcohol, Elton John Zero Blanc de Blancs is made as a 0% ‘wine’ from the outset by fermenting grapes with ‘good’ bacteria that don’t produce any alcohol. Similar to kombucha. 

It also includes green tea extract to add a touch of fine tannin, and has added CO2 to add fizz.

John has a well-publicised struggle with alcohol addiction, which ended in 1990, when he became sober. Furnish gave up alcohol in 2014.

“It really came from something we wanted and needed in our life and in our home,” Furnish said. “Both Elton and I are teetotal, and we love to entertain.”

Chef cooks up a new premium wine range

Six years ago Orange winemaker Duncan Cook decided to push his boundaries and make some new barrel-fermented reserve wines.

A couple of weeks ago the Cooks Lot Iconique Barrique wines were released: featuring a 2019 Cooks Lot ‘Iconique Barrique’ Rolled Chardonnay and 2019 Cooks Lot ‘Iconique Barrique’ R16R17 Pinot Noir.

The pair retails for $60 each and are a statement of confidence from a producer that is one of Orange’s best-kept secrets,

Cooks Lot, which started in 2002, is operated by former chef Cook on the slopes of Mount Canobolas.

After many years working as a chef at La Grillade in Crows Nest, Sydney, Cook enrolled at Charles Sturt University to study winemaking.

Driving weekly from Sydney to Wagga Wagga for lectures, he eventually decided to fully commit to a career in wine. Initially working in Mudgee, where he has family.

He was then drawn to cooler-climate varieties and began sourcing fruit from Orange in 2011.

In 2016, Duncan set out to create a new flagship wine, with pinot noir the natural choice. “It’s the one percenters that make the difference with these wines,” he said.

“We experimented with barrel fermenting red wines and saw the great depth and complexity it created.

”“You have to be half crazy to do it. It’s an enormous amount of work, and expensive, but the results speak for themselves. It’s gentler on the fruit than plunging, which can over-extract tannins. The result is softer tannins, beautiful secondary and charcuterie characters, and greater colour stability in the wine.”

The pinot noir is a wine that benefits from being open for a couple of hours before drinking, while the chardonnay is impressively complex and textural.

Cook believes Orange’s diversity is key to wine quality.

“Orange isn’t like any other wine region in Australia," he says. "There are multiple sub-regions within it; grapes grown at 600 metres are completely different to those at 1000 metres.”

The fruit for both wines is sourced small grower vineyard parcels sourced across this volcanic region.

“There are some fantastic growers in Orange,” Cook says

“Working with several of them gives me great flexibility in the winery. Combining higher-elevation fruit with grapes from lower sites adds complexity and balance to the finished wine.”

The 2019 Cooks Lot ‘Iconique Barrique’ R16R17 Pinot Noir was hand-picked and cold-soaked for three days before being micro-fermented in 900L rotating French barriques with a portion of whole bunches and wild yeast. Te barrels were rotated nine times per day, followed by five days of post-ferment maceration. The wine was matured in 900-litre French oak barriques for 16 months.

The 2019 Cooks Lot ‘Iconique Barrique’ Chardonnay Rolled was whole-bunch pressed, with the free-run juice barrel-fermented on partial solids with wild yeast to build texture and complexity. The wine was matured in new French oak puncheons for 24 months, with extended lees contact enhanced through modern barrel rolling.

See cookslot.com.au

Good news for Chablis lovers

There is good news for lovers of Chablis wines after a positive 2025 harvest with volumes up.

Despite challenging weather, growers harvested healthy fruit, and the resulting wines combine freshness, balance, and confident ageing potential," the Bourgogne Wine Board Press Office reported today.

"With an estimated 300,000 hectolitres - slightly below recent 5- and 10‑year averages - Chablis returns to volumes more closely aligned with market needs after the sharply reduced 2024 harvest."

The winter of 2024-25 unfolded without major extremes, despite a few episodes of frost.

"What once felt unusual has now become almost standard, with Chablis increasingly moving toward consistently early vintages," the BIVB reported.

A cooler May briefly slowed this pace, but flowering accelerated quickly - sometimes abruptly - around May 26.

The rest of the season was punctuated by two significant heatwaves: one at the end of June, and another from August 8 to 18, with temperatures nearing 40°C.

These conditions naturally concentrated the berries, producing smaller fruit with thicker skins, a source of both aromatic intensity and structural depth.

Heavy but irregular mid‑August rain provided welcome relief after weeks of drought, restarting ripening while requiring increased vigilance to maintain quality."

So what can lovers of this unique style of chardonnay expect?

"The 2025 whites show clarity, balance, and expressive aromatics.

"Two stylistic expressions are emerging. One is a fresh, fruit-driven profile with notes of pear and peach, lively acidity, and crisp tension. The other is a rounder, fuller style marked by subtle exotic nuances, supported by even ripeness and a generous sense of amplitude."

Find all the info at www.chablis-wines.com

A stunning new canvas for artisan Kiwi wine producer

Artisan Marlborough wine producer Blank Canvas has upped the ante by announcing the purchase of a spectacular looking nine-hectare vineyard property in the Omaka Valley, in the Southern Valleys sub region.

The vineyard will become the sustainability focused producer's long-awaited home site and will complement fruit sourced from nine existing partner vineyards, whose grapes anchor the Blank Canvas single-vineyard philosophy.

Blank Canvas was founded in 2012 by award-winning international winemaking consultant Matt Thomson and Master of Wine Sophie Parker-Thomson with the vision of crafting world-class wines.

“This is a defining moment in our evolution as we approach vintage number fourteen," says Sophie. "We have dreamt of the perfect home for Blank Canvas from day one and have been actively searching for it over several years. We are delighted that we have finally found it.”

The amphitheatre-shaped hillside vineyard that Blank Canvas will call home was established in 2003 and planted at very high density.

The property offers 360° views across the Wairau Valley.

The company plans substantial phased investment and careful development to realise the site’s full potential.

Winemaker Matt Thomson, who has completed an even split of 66 harvests over 33 years in Europe and New Zealand, says: “Site drives style. In the Old World, the best sites typically grow one or at most two varieties.

"In the New World we often try to force many varieties into one terroir, frequently with mediocre results. This site gives us two complementary terroirs - a cooler east face and a warmer west face - that will allow us to match variety and style to place, which is a founding ethos of Blank Canvas.”

While a small parcel of established pinot noir on the cooler eastern face will remain, Matt and Sophie plan to convert the remainder of the block, currently planted to sauvignon blanc, to varieties better suited to the microclimates created by the differing aspects.

“In New Zealand’s climate and with our high costs of production, it’s important we grow only varieties that are capable of true greatness,” says Matt.

“There is no doubt that nebbiolo, syrah and pinot noir produce some of the world’s greatest wines. These red varieties form a trifecta of great aromatic red wines of the world, and together with our belief in Marlborough chardonnay, we think we can achieve something very special from this extraordinary property.”

Blank Canvas will continue to release single-vineyard wines from its grower partners, while the new vineyard will reinforce the small-batch fine wine program.

The first vintage from the new Blank Canvas vineyard site will be harvested in 2026.

See https://blankcanvaswines.com/ 

Remembering a Mornington Peninsula pioneer

The Mornington Peninsula lost one of its wine industry pioneers with the death earlier this week of Brian Stonier AO. 

Stonier passed away peacefully at the age of 93, surrounded by his wife Noel, and their children Simon, Jenny and Sally.

He had a stellar career in publishing and the arts and was also a key player in the emergence of the Mornington Peninsula as a cool-climate wine region. 

Stonier produced, and continues to do so, outstanding chardonnays and pinot noirs. 

He was, at various times, managing director of Penguin Publishing, founder of Sun Books, chairman of Macmillan Publishing, president of the Victorian College of the Arts, board member of the National Gallery of Victoria, The Arts Centre Trust, the Australia Council, The National Library and founder of Stonier Winery in 1978.

Despite selling Stonier in the early 2000s, he remained a member of the board and an active contributor to the business and the region. 

"When we purchased the winery in 2022, I rang Brian to let him know," recalls co-owner Aaron Drummond. 

"He was so pleased the winery was back in local family ownership. He would call regularly to check in on our progress and was delighted to see the new wines and direction."

Andrew Caillard MW commented: “Brian made a big contribution to the world of fine wine”. 

Discover two weeks of Chablis celebrations

Wines from Chablis are perhaps the purest expression of the chardonnay grape; showcasing bright acid and minerality.

While Australia makes a wide range of chardonnay styles, Chablis is revered by aficionados and has a loyal following even as the prices of imported wines have risen. 

This spring, Chablis wines and Merivale are combining for a collaboration that will run from September 29 to October 13. 

A total of 16 Merivale venues will host a Chablis fortnight, spotlighting the classic pairing of Chablis and oysters. 

Guests will be able to choose between six or 12 oysters, paired with bottles of Chablis wines chosen to  showcase the vibrant minerality, purity, and precision that Chablis is known for.

The wines of Chablis are shaped by the unique Kimmeridgian subsoils and cool climate of northern Bourgogne - just along the road from Champagne. 

Merivale venues will feature Petit Chablis’ lively, zesty freshness (perfect for casual enjoyment) to the elegance of Chablis, known for its finesse and minerality, and the depth and complexity of Chablis Premier Cru. 

Australia is the 10th-largest global market for Chablis, with over half a million bottles enjoyed across the country.

Producers to feature include Famille Grossot, William Fevre, Domaine Antoine et Laura Robin, Julien Brocard, Domaine du Colombier (a personal favourite when I lived in France), and Prieure Sainr-Come. 

The venues include Bert's Bar and Brasserie, Newport; Mimi’s, Coogee; Felix, Ucello, Sushi e, Ash Street Cellar and Mumu in Sydney CBD; and The Surf Deck, Collaroy. 

See https://merivale.com/

Wine and cheese offering is a lure for potential hotel guests

Hotels are always looking to stand out from the crowd and the The Porter House Hotel Sydney MGallery has chosen a potent allure: wine. 

The Porter House has just unveiled a city stay for lovers of wine, cheese and luxury, with its Chardon-yay Stay package, which includes a curated chardonnay wine flight and cheese pairing with an overnight stay. 

The package is a collaboration with Handpicked Wines with the five-star boutique hotel offering guests the opportunity to explore the subtle differences in styles of the chardonnay grape from their Tasmanian, Mornington Peninsula, and Yarra Valley vineyards, alongside selected cheeses. 

The hotel is one of the oldest buildings in Sydney, constructed of sandstone bricks, its exquisite façade has been restored, while the modernised interiors feature century-old artefacts displayed in its corridors on every level. 

Commissioned in 1876 by philanthropist and horticulturist, Hugh Dixson, The Porter House Hotel started its life as a grand tobacco factory and was later a furniture and leather merchants.

“We are very lucky at The Porter House Hotel to be able to offer our guests exceptional wine experiences alongside a passion for showcasing Australia’s finest produce,” said Mitchell Turner, the hotel general manager. 

“MGallery hotels are all about storytelling and this is our way to share the story of Australia’s wine culture through an immersive tasting of some of the best wines in the country.”

The Chardon-Yay package is available from $359 per night for one or $419 for two guests.

Just steps away from George Street, the hotel is within walking distance of the Sydney Opera House, The Royal Botanic Garden and Hyde Park. I stayed here shortly after it opened and the location is excellent. 

See mgallery.com or all.accor.com

A white wine was Australia's most-cellared drop in 2024

 

Australians tend to cellar much more red wine than white, but the most collected drop in 2024 was a white: Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2021 from Margaret River.

No surprise about the producer with the most bottles collected overall this year : Penfolds. 

Australia’s largest wine storage provider, Wine Ark, has catalogued the 195,000 bottles placed in its care in 2024 to reveal the most cellared wines of the past 12 months. 

The data gives insights into the tastes, trends, and the collections of some of Australia’s most-discerning wine drinkers.

With 15 facilities across five states, Wine Ark houses over one million bottles, making it the country’s premier wine storage provider.

It reported there was a 15% increase in the number of bottles placed into storage from 2023 to 2024 and that the Barossa Valley was the region making up 23.4% of the wines submitted this year. 

It was followed by Margaret River (14.8%)

Wine Ark’s John Cuff notes that the 2024 results demonstrate a growing awareness of the ageability of Australia’s biggest white wine variety, but expressed surprise at seeing Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay crowned as the most collected wine of 2024.

“Over the years, we’ve observed a marked increase in the appetite for age-worthy chardonnay," Cuff says. "However, I fully expected a red wine to take the top spot this year. 

"There are over seven chardonnays in the Top 25 wines added in 2024 including four in the top 10.”

The results also highlighted a growing preference for boutique and family wineries. Cuff noted, “It’s been a tough year for the wine trade. It’s heartening to see that the vast majority of wines purchased and stored at Wine Ark this year were produced by smaller, family-run wineries. 

"While iconic names like Leeuwin, Giaconda, and Pierro Chardonnay dominate the Top 10, I was truly blown away to see the 2022 Savaterre Chardonnay from Beechworth rank as the 7th most cellared wine of 2024.”

TOP WINES ADDED TO CELLARS

1. Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2021, 2. Penfolds St Henri Shiraz 2018, 3. Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2024, 4. Mount Mary Quintet Cabernet Blend 2022, 5. Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023, 6. Giaconda Estate Chardonnay 2022, 7. Savaterre Chardonnay 2022, 8. Pierro Chardonnay 2023, 9. Standish Lamella Shiraz 2022, 10. Lake’s Folly Shiraz Merlot Petit Verdot 2022

TOP FIVE PRODUCERS ADDED TO CELLARS

1. Penfolds, 2. Rockford, 3. Tyrrells, 4. Lake’s Folly, 5. Mount Mary

TOP FIVE VARIETALS ADDED TO THE CELLARS

1. Shiraz, 2. Chardonnay, 3. Pinot Noir, 4. Cabernet Sauvignon, 5. Cabernet blends

TOP REGIONS ADDED TO THE CELLARS

1. Barossa, 2. Margaret River, 3. Hunter Valley, 4. Yarra Valley, 5. McLaren Vale

Small Wonder gets a lot bigger

Overstory, owners of Tamar Valley wine brand Small Wonder, has announced the acquisition of a 24-hectare vineyard in the Coal River Valley. 

The strategic acquisition just east of Richmond and 20 minutes from Hobart marks a significant milestone in the company’s growth and expands its footprint into another of Tasmania’s most celebrated cool-climate wine regions.

Small Wonder, known for its premium organic wines and formerly known as Goaty Hill, recently opened a new state-of-the-art winery in January 2024. 

The acquisition of the Marengo Road vineyard in the Coal River Valley will enable Overstory to double its production volume in Tasmania over the next three years, allowing for portfolio expansion and growth in both domestic and international markets.

Fruit from the vineyard has previously been used by premium producers including Bubb and Pooley.

"We are thrilled to broaden our presence in Tasmania and take this next step in enhancing the quality and variety of our wine offerings,” said Paul McArdle, CEO at Overstory.

"Consistent with our approach at our Tamar Valley location, we are committed to achieving organic certification for the Coal River Valley vineyard over the next three years, reinforcing our commitment to sustainable, high-quality winemaking practices."

The recently acquired vineyard, planted between 2017 and 2019, features a diverse mix ofbcool-climate varietals, with predominantly pinot noir and chardonnay along with small amounts of shiraz, riesling, pinot gris and viognier.  

Overstory says the purchase cements “the company’s position as one of Tasmania’s leading producers of cool-climate wines”. 

I co-incidentally tried two excellent Small Wonder pinots this week. The future looks bright. 

Tasmanian wine gamble has paid big dividends

Cousins Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith (above) are not averse to taking a risk or two. 

When they launched their first wine brand 35 years ago they opted to use sauvignon blanc as the headline act. 

At that time sauvignon blanc was virtually unknown in the southern hemisphere. 

The success of the Shaw + Smith brand has since paved the way for hundreds of Australian producers who followed in their footsteps and planted sauvignon blanc. 

Thirteen years ago, considering creating a brand in Tasmania, they chose the Tolpuddle Vineyard in the Coal River Valley, originally planted by some of the savviest operators in the wine business. 

The vineyard is on a gently sloping north-east site with soils that are light silica over sandstone: ideal for chardonnay and pinot noir.  

The only problem was that Tolpuddle had initially been planted with chardonnay and pinot noir clones best suited to sparkling wine production, not the premium table wines for which Tolpuddle has become well known.

"The 2023 vintage got us to a point where we are full planted - and everything in the ground is as we want it ," says Tolpuddle national sales manager Tom Donegan, who hosted a 2023 vintage release tasting in Hobart last week, along with Pip Anderson, who will run the Tolpuddle tasting room when it opens adjacent to the vineyard in November.

The 2023 vintage was the coldest on record, but winemaker Adam Wadewitz and his team have worked some magic. 

Both new releases reflect the work viticulturist Carlos Souris has been putting into the vineyard, including re-plants, grafts and extensions, while organic practices have been evolving over a decade or more.  

The 2023 Chardonnay has marvellous tension and bright acidity, along with impressive cool-climate balance, while the 2023 Pinot Noir walks a tightrope of fruit and savoury characters and finishes with delicacy and elegance. .

Both share intense, complex fruit flavours, vibrancy and minerality.  

Find out more at https://www.tolpuddlevineyard.com/ but be warned that stocks are getting low after only a couple of weeks of release. 

Understandably so. If you are very lucky you might still find some in retail land. 

Bastard Hill sees Giant Steps take huge strides

It is a cold, wet, windy and exposed vineyard with absurdly steep slopes. 

But even though it is much hated by vineyard workers - hence the name - Bastard Hill is one of  the best sites in Australia for growing quality cool-climate chardonnay and pinot noir. 

Located in the Upper Yarra Valley, near Gladysdale, the 13-hectate Bastard Hill, which sits at 280 metres above sea level, has had several owners over the years but is now under the custodianship of Mel Chester and her Giant Steps winemaking team. 

It was acquired in 2022 after being planted by leading viticulturist Ray Guerin in 1985 - initially to provide fruit for sparkling wine production.  

Chester says the vineyard still needs "some care and attention" to reach its peak, but its immense potential is underlined by the inaugural releases as part of Giant Steps' single vineyard program. Both are stunning wines.

I tasted all the 2023 Yarra Valley wines with Chester a week or so ago, and was blown away by the way the new releases reflect the different terroirs of the Bastard Hill, Tarraford, Sexton, Primavera and Applejack vineyards. 

These are not cheap wines: the chardonnays sell for around $90 a bottle and the pinots for around $100, but such is their quality they are close to being sold out. 

No doubt helped by Giant Steps being named Winery of the Year in the new James Halliday Wine Companion annual, and the Applejack Pinot Noir being anointed as pinot noir of the year. 

All the wines in the range are astutely crafted and sublimely nuanced.

"The 2023 vintage was one of the coldest and latest on record, helping the vineyards produce wines of wonderful purity and tension," Chester (above) says. 

"I think you will notice the crystalline texture and pure voices of the chardonnays, while the pinots have wonderful fresh perfume."

I am far from the only fan of these wines, they are racking up positive reviews and show awards at a rapid rate. 

Here's the line-up: 

2023 Tarraford Chardonnay: Intense with pink grapefruit notes; still very taut and tight. 

2023 Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay: Stunning. A little softer but still blessed with very vibrant acidity. Muscularity and subtlety in the same package. 

2023 Applejack Vineyard Chardonnay: Made in tiny quantities with both power and restraint. Very pure as it saw zero malo. 

2023 Bastard Hill Chardonnay: What a debut! Lean, commpelling, classic cool-climate flavours for lovers of Chablis.      

2023 Bastard Hill Pinot Noir: A tour de force. A wine with a delightful flow on the palate. Impressive fragrance and texture. Cellar worthy. 

2023 Primavera Vineyard Pinot Noir: Great length on this one with a lively line of minerality at its core. 

2023 Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir: Serious power and intensity here, but also beauty and poise. Great fruit and spice. 

2023 Sexton Vineyard Pinot Noir: Fruit forward; the biggest of the pinots with meaty elements. Glossy and grounded. 

A legendary line-up. See www.giantstepswine.com.au before they are all sold out.       

Family-owned Delamere is a Tasmanian wine success story

Fran Austin comes from Kalgoorlie via Perth. Shane Holloways's family owns a vineyard in the Adelaide Hills.

Together, the husband and wife winemaking team has turned once-tiny Delamere Vineyards into one of the most respected names in the Tasmanian wine industry.

Austin made her name as winemaker at Bay of Fires; Holloway made wines at Dalrymple. And when Delamere, planted in 1982, came on the market in 2007, they gambled all on buying the Pipers River property.

Almost two decades on they have hugely expanded vineyards, a large winemaking facility, including a new tirage facility, their own bottling line, and they contract make wines for several small labels. That's a win.

The couple - who combine technical ability with good instincts - sescribe themselves as "Tasmanian grower producers handcrafting traditional method sparkling wines and table wines". 

Cool guys. Obsessive about quality.

Austin has a degree in winemaking from Adelaide University and did vintages in Burgundy and the south of France, worked with the hugely influential Brian Croser, and has a CV that involves roles at Domaine Chandon, Petaluma and Houghton before landing in Tasmania, where she worked at Heemskerk and Rochecombe before landing at Bay of Fires, where she quickly developed a formidable reputation.

  

Holloway, a former marine biologist, took up a vintage cellar hand position to help pay the rent whilst undertaking post-graduate research. He completed an Adelaide University post-graduate degree in winemaking and embarked on vintages in the Adelaide Hills, Yarra Valley and Oregon before Tasmania called him back and he made wine at Dalrymple. 

Wine won over marine creatures. 

Last week, the couple hosted a dinner at Launceston's Black Cow Bistro to launch the new 2023 vintages of their estate pinot noir and chardonnay. A similar tasting is scheduled for Hobart later this month.  

The line-up, which showcased wines as far back as their first vintage in 2008, featuring stunning brackets of museum wines, along with a sneak peek at the 2023 Delamere Estate Chardonnay and 2023 Estate Pinot Noir, both of which are released today with an RRP of $70.

Delamere is unusual in that all its estate wines are made from just two grape varieties, the range includes not only sparkling and table wines but also a new-release NV Ratafia. 

Both new estate wines will likely sell out within weeks.

While the dinner was about the releases and showing how the wines age, diners began their night with a stunning 2012 Late Disgorged Blanc de Blancs ($150) and a 2013 Vintage Rosé ($80). 

They were then regaled with entertaining stories about the couple's Delamere journey on a 100% estate grown, made and bottled story. 

"Chardonnay is why I fell in love with Delamere - and it remains my desert island wine," said Shane, revealing how he made the stunningly youthful 2008 on his own, with Fran still working at Bay of Fires at the time.

"The combination of soil and site make our vineyards perfect for cool-climate chardonnay and pinot noir," he says. 

Fran says each wine they make "unlocks the inherent beauty of our site, as we encapsulate the story of each season in our wine". 

The rich ironstone soils at Pipers River are farmed 100% by hand, and the wines are very much a reflection of each vintage: 100% family-owned and -run. 

And the back vintages that we tried at dinner underlined just how well the estate chardonnay and pinot noir will cellar.  

See www.delamerevineyards.com.au    

100% Family owned and run, 100% grown, made and bottled at our Pipers River Estate

Discover a whole month of chardonnay celebrations

May is the best month of the year for chardonnay lovers to visit the Adelaide Hills.

Bookings are now open for the month-long Chardonnay May festivities in the Hills - just a short drive from downtown Adelaide.

Throughout May, cellar doors and venues across the region will offer special tastings of the wine variety. There will be over 30 chardonnay tasting experiences to choose from across 22 wineries in the Hills.

Some producers will debut their new vintages, while and others will bring out aged gems from their cellars.

There will be 16 chardonnay tasting experiences on offer over the month, including food and wine pairings.

For those with a hunger to delve deep into the world of chardy. there will be masterclasses with Sidewood Estate, The Lane Vineyard, and Deviation Road.

There will also be three long lunches at Golding, Lobethal Road and Karrawatta.

Night owls may prefer one of the five chardonnay dinners, including the Tasting Australia event "Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Heroes" dinner, which sold out last year and this year is over two nights at Fourth Hill Providore.

Chardonnay will be when paired with its best friend, cheese, at Hesketh with Udder Delights, and at Murdoch Hill with Section 28 cheese. or maybe dance with a glass of Chardonnay in hand at Simon Tolley's French-themed disco.

At Tapanappa, they will team up with Patch Kitchen & Garden to host a four-course Chardonnay and succulent pig feast on May 23.

You'll find all the details here: https://www.adelaidehillswine.com.au/events/chardonnay-may/?mc_cid=bffaec2ac6&mc_eid=c8d5c5375d

 

Bold chardonnay project an instant success

Winemaker Alex Beckett spent seven successful years at Briar Ridge in the Hunter Valley before his recent switch to Marnong Estate in Victoria.

But he also has a little side project with Jan Taborsky, a former journalist from the Czech Republic with a love of wine, devoted to just one grape variety: chardonnay.

Meet Origines Wines, which has debuted with an exceptional wine from a most unlikely source, the New England district in northern New South Wales, a minor wine producing region at best.

The result, however, is hugely impressive: the Origines 2022 New England Chardonnay ($55). 

Think quality wine made in the style of the Macon region of Burgundy; cool-climate chardonnay with real personality. This is concentrated and elegant with terrific palate drive and has what the French call a certain je ne sais quoi. It's super stylish.   

Origines is described as a "micro-negociant project" that aims to explore the various terroirs of cool-climate areas of New South Wales, and produce chardonnays - and only chardonnays - that express their origins.

The project began two years ago, with a focus on vineyards that use sustainable farming practices.

The pair says its winemaking philosophy is "to capture every aspect of the grape in each glass".

That involves hand picking fruit from low yielding sites (at almost 1000 metres altitude in the case of the first wine), carefully selecting the best grapes, then whole bunch press and fermentation with natural fruit solids and ambient yeasts in, most unusually, Austrian oak casks.

Long maturations on yeast lees follows without any additions and, finally, natural clarification and bottling without any finings or filtration.

A 2023 vintage New England wine is currently in barrel, along with a 2023 Orange chardonnay (from Orange, not made in the orange style). 

Head to https://origines.com.au/  but don't hang around. Quantities are small and word will soon get around. 

 

 

The Adelaide Hills is calling to chardonnay lovers

The Adelaide Hills Wine Region has released details of nearly 40 chardonnay-themed experiences for its third annual Chardonnay May celebration.

Throughout May, cellar doors across the Adelaide Hills will offer special tastings with a focus on cool-climate chardonnay with some wine producers revealing their new vintages and others bringing out  aged wines from the cellar.

The itinerary includes long chardonnay lunches, gourmet dinners, masterclasses and experiences including high teas, painting on canvas and, rather bizarrely, a French-themed disco.

Alex Trescowthick, president of Adelaide Hills Wine Region, says: “This year, Chardonnay May will spread over the entire month rather than focusing on two weekends as we did last year. 

"That way, chardonnay lovers can visit many different producers over the whole month to really gain a deep understanding of the quality and diversity of Adelaide Hills chardonnay.

"From Mount Pleasant to Mount Compass, our cool climate and pristine environment really shine through in the freshness and elegance of chardonnay from Adelaide Hills.”

The event runs from May 1-31 and details are available at www.adelaidehillswine.com.au/events/chardonnay-may