Leading California wine regions at risk

Global warming and increasing wildfire risk threaten viability of elite wine-growing regions in California - but others may boom, a new report says. 

Mendocino and Monterey could become increasingly favourable for premium vintages under shifting climate patterns, while Napa and Sonoma may face increased pressure in grape cultivation. 

The US is the fourth-largest wine-producing country by output volume, and approximately 80% of its production occurs in California. 

Since the 19th century, California’s premier wine-growing regions have been the Napa Valley and Sonoma County, thanks to their favourable microclimates. 

But grape yield and quality are very sensitive to the local environment, which means that the climate crisis could shake up California’s wine industry. 

The new study shows that established regions including Napa and Sonoma could struggle to sustain their wine production under severe climate change. Others, like northern and coastal California, could become new wine-growing powerhouses.

“Our findings reveal that the outlook for Mendocino and Monterey is uniquely promising because of a dual trend: they are projected to experience both increasing climatic suitability for wine-growing and a decrease in extreme fire-weather days,” said Dr Yusuke Hiraga, an assistant professor at Tohoku University in Sendai, Japan, and author of the study in Frontiers in Climate. 

“This combination makes these areas stand out as comparatively favourable expansion zones, distinct from many other regions with either rising suitability alongside increased wildfire weather or declining suitability

Together with Takuya Matsumoto, a masters student at Tohoku University, Hiraga modeled California’s current and future climatic suitability for wine grape cultivation. 

They focused on 379 wine-growing locations listed in the California Wine Institute, predominantly in the North Coast region and across the Central Coast.

To forecast climate change, the authors mapped projections from global climate models onto a 4km-by-4km grid across the mainland US. 

They also considered alternative carbon emission scenarios. 

The authors likewise modelled the shifting weather conditions linked to wildfire risk and expected severity within each cell. 

The results showed that the suitability of currently important wine-growing regions, like Napa, Sonoma, San Luis Obispo, and Santa Barbara, is likely to decline strongly under severe climate change. 

In contrast, suitability was predicted to increase greatly in Mendocino, Monterey, and in central to southern coastal areas. 

“While our study highlights long-term shifts in climatic and fire-weather suitability through the end of the century, it does not attempt to predict a specific timeline for when emerging areas will surpass currently established regions in wine-growing potential,” Hiraga said. 

“Such a precise forecast is complex, as the future of viticulture is shaped not only by climate change and wildfire weather but also by a wide array of anthropogenic factors.”

For more info, here is the original research  article: https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/climate/articles/10.3389/fclim.2026.1838268/full

Fires may impact 2028 Los Angeles Olympic Games

The wildfires currently ravaging Los Angeles and surrounds have raised doubts about the Californian city’s ability to host the Olympic Games in 2028.

The cost of rebuilding and insurance are casting a cloud over preparations, says Dr Tom Heenan, who lectures in sport, global and Australian studies at the Monash Intercultural Lab in Australia.

“LA 2028 will be the Olympic version of the Hunger Games," Heenan said in a media statement.

“Even without the wildfires, the Games will cost Angelenos dearly, especially the poor and homeless, and prove to be another IOC-orchestrated budgetary blowout, if not a Montreal-type black hole.

“The additional infrastructure requirements will strain an already stretched public purse and shift labour from the much needed rebuild in the hills.

“For a city built on property speculation, 2028 could be a repeat of the 1932 Games, which was a real estate agent’s dream.

“The winners will be property developers and the head of LA's organising committee, Casey Wasserman, and his sport-entertainment empire.

“The losers may well be LA residents who will bear the expense of the Olympics and a costly yet questionable rebuild in fire-prone hills.”

Wine region builds on what Russians started 200 years ago

It is 200 years since migrant adventurers from Russia planted the first vines in what is now one of the major vineyard regions in the US: Sonoma County.

The history of those migrants lives on in names like the Russian River Valley and Sebastopol.

The first vines in the region were planted at Fort Ross on the Sonoma coast and this milestone in California's wine industry will be marked at events like the Valley of the Moon Vintage Festival.

Two centuries on and Sonoma towns like Healdsburg and Petaluma are magnets for wine and food lovers from around the world, particularly given they are only a short drive north of San Francisco.

Among the summer drawcards are the Russian River Valley Wine Weekend, which runs from August 2-4 and showcases local wines with live music performances.

The Sonoma Valley Vintners & Growers Alliance and Foundation hold the Valley of the Moon Vintage Festival, celebrating Sonoma Valley's rich winemaking heritage during California Wine Month.

Against the backdrop of the historic colonial Sonoma Plaza, visitors can enjoy a weekend filled with food, wine, and communal festivities. 

Attendees can experience the festival spirit through events like Vintage Movie Night, the Sonoma Valley Harvest Dinner at Gundlach Bundschu Winery, Blessing of the Grapes, Sonoma Valley Grape Stomp, and the Artisan Festival of Food & Wine from September 26-29.

For more information visit sonomacounty.com

Napa Valley wine legend dies at 95

Warren Winiarski, one of the key figures in developing the Napa Valley wine industry, has died at the age 95.

Winiarski founded industry leader Stag's Leap Wine Cellars but was also a key figure in the wine business community in the region, Wine Spectator reported.

Winiarski, who also owned Arcadia Cellars, was born in 1928 in Chicago, and was an academic track before he spent time studying in Italy and was inspired to enter the wine industry.

He was the first head winemaker for Robert Mondavi's eponymous winery in 1966 when Michael Mondavi was doing military service. 

Winiarski purchased a fruit orchard and ranch in the Napa Valley in 1970 and began planting cabernet sauvignon and merlot. He made wine from those plantings, along with some existing petite sirah (durif), and released the first Stag's Leap Wine Cellars label wine in 1972.

Stag's Leap was quickly recognised among the upper echelons of California wines, winning the historic Judgment of Paris blind tasting in 1976 with his 1973 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon. That tasting saw top wines from France and California compared against each other. 

In 2012, a bottle of that wine was received into the Smithsonian's National Museum of American History in Washington, D.C. permanent museum collection. 

In 2007, after 37 years in charge, Winiarski went into partnership with Ste. Michelle Wine Estates and Marchesi Antinori, but remained involved.

Winiarski oversaw the Winiarski Family Foundation, which supports educational and charitable causes.

Treasury Wine Estates swoops on premium US producer

Australian industry giant Treasury Wine Estates has pounced to purchase a leading premium wine producer in California.

Treasury - which owns brands ranging from Penfolds and Wynns Coonawarra Estate to 19 Crimes and Squealing Pig - today announced that it has reached an agreement to acquire DAOU Vineyards.

The luxury wine business founded by brothers and co-proprietors Georges and Daniel Daou will command an "upfront consideration" of $US900 million, plus an additional earn-out of up to $100 million.

The press release says the "transformative deal will accelerate TWE's focus on a portfolio that is increasingly luxury-led with a greater presence in key growth markets such as the US".

Founded in 2007 and based in Paso Robles, California, DAOU is billed as the fastest-growing luxury wine brand in the US trade over the past year. It is known for its award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon-based Patrimony wines.

DAOU should prove a strong complement to TWE's existing portfolio in upper-luxury price points and fills a key portfolio opportunity for Treasury in the $20-40 range in the US, as well as strengthening its luxury portfolio in the $40+ range.

Tim Ford, the CEO of Treasury Wine Estates, said: "The US is the world's largest wine market and we're beyond thrilled to add DAOU to our portfolio, cementing our position as a global luxury wine leader.

"This is a transformative acquisition that will accelerate the growth of our luxury portfolio globally and paves the way for new luxury consumer experiences. DAOU is an award-winning luxury wine business with an outstanding track record for growth and we have grand plans for DAOU to become the next brand with the international scale and luxury credentials of Penfolds.

"With DAOU, we will be well-positioned to connect with a new generation of wine lovers, combining tradition with innovation, culture-led experiences, and global distribution."

"The last frontier has always been international, and as part of the Treasury Wine Estates portfolio, we have unlocked the potential to be amongst the highest-end wines for consumers to enjoy globally," said Georges and Daniel Daou, who will remain with the business.

"In Treasury Wine Estates, we have found a partner that not only understands the value of our brand and the premium assets we have cultivated but also the importance of ensuring that we maintain a relentless focus on quality and craftsmanship as we step into our future. 

"Both companies are change leaders and by joining forces, we will continue to boldly disrupt the industry and bring the very best in wine and luxury experiences to consumers around the world."

"Greedy" Disney under fire as it hoists ticket prices

How much would you expect to pay for a ticket at Disneyland in California?

If you pick the wrong day to visit Anaheim then you could now pay up to $194 (that's around $308 in Australian dollars).

Walt Disney Co this week announced it was raising some theme-park ticket prices for Disneyland by up to 8.9%, with the price per ticket on busy days such as holidays increasing to $194.

There is, however, some good news: there was no price increase for a single-day, one-park ticket on what Disneyland calls its Tier 0 days (which are days with traditionally lowest attendances).

That price remains at $104 - which is still $165 in Australian pesos, making the minimum cost for a family of four well over $600.

Not surprisingly, the price increases - 12 months after a previous price hike - provoked criticism of the Happiest Place of the Earth being dubbed The Greediest Place on Earth.

Robert Niles, editor and founder of website Theme Park Insider, told the Washington Post that some park-goers may be incensed.

“Some Disneyland fans and visitors will decide this latest increase is the last straw for them, and frankly, I think that Disney is planning on that,” he said.

“The parks are filled in California, and Disney needs some way to thin the crowd without leaving fans frustrated with an inability to book scarce reservation slots.”

How hospitable of them. 

Meet a Grant Burge wine from California

Grant Burge Wines is a name that is synonymous with the Barossa Valley - but it has just released its first wine from California.

Now owned by global giant Accolade Wines, Grant Burge has released the inaugural vintage of its Grant Burge Paso Ink Cabernet Sauvignon, which has a recommended retail price of $US20.

It is the brand's first wine from outside Australia, which seems to be part of a growing trend.

The Grant Burge Paso Ink hails from Paso Robles AVA fruit purchased from over a dozen growers in the California Central Coast region.

The wine has been made by European-based Californian winemaker Ashley Leon, once of James Haselgrove Wines, in partnership with vastly experienced Grant Burge chief winemaker Craig Stansborough.

“It is an honour to be at the forefront of this pivotal era for Grant Burge and exciting to work with this beautiful fruit from such a unique growing region, which I consider home,” said Leon.

Paso Ink will be distributed across the US, but news yet as to whether it will be sold in Australia.

See https://accoladewines.com/

Discover a new gourmet burger trail

Wine trails are 10 a penny. Craft beer and craft cider trails are popular, and even distillery trails are a thing.

Now one county in California has launched a more prosaic trail - dedicated to the humble hamburger.

Tuolumne County has launched a craft burger trail encouraging visitors to explore the region’s big attractions and wander from bun to bun.

Tuolumne County is east of San Francisco and is centred on the town of Sonora in the Sierra Nevada region. It includes the northern half of the Yosemite National Park.

There are nine eateries featured on the trail at visittuolumne.com/burgertrail where you can get a free craft burger trail passport and use it to redeem discounts at each participating location using a 4-digit PIN code.

In the town of Twain Harte, perhaps, pop into Local Press, where the Shack Burger features homemade bourbon bacon jam.

In the former Gold Rush town of Jamestown, the National Hotel and Restaurant serves the intriguing sounding whiskey burger. Nearby, The Service Station (above) serves a salmon burger on ciabatta, that can be combined with craft beer and wine tastings.

In central Sonora, The Armoury serves burgers in its beer garden, while Emberz Woodfired Foodz showcases a fondue burger with roquette cheese poured over your burger tableside.

Sounds like a great idea that could easily be copied by a region in Australia. Get to it burger barons. 

One trip you must take in San Francisco

 

If you are planning to visit the increasingly nutty United States, then San Francisco should be one of the cities on your travel agenda.

It is a visually spectacular city with a vibrant waterfront, dramatic views and a fascinating history.

Its many steep hills make it hard for walkers, but thankfully there are the city's iconic cable cars to spin you around with a minimum of fuss - although you may face a long wait to board at peak times.

The cable cars are recognised around the world over for the clanging of their bells, panoramic views, and thrilling descents down steep hills.

Taking a ride on a cable car should always be at the top of a visitors’ must-do San Francisco list, say the local tourism authority.

The cable car lines serve around seven million passengers per year

San Francisco celebrates 150 years of cable cars in August this year - and they are the world's last manually operated cable car system, traversing three routes across the city.

Of the 23 routes of yesteryear just three remain operational: two routes from downtown near Union Square to Fisherman's Wharf, and a third route along California Street.

The first successful cable-operated street train was the Clay Street Hill Railroad, which began operations on August 2, 1873

Today, San Francisco is one of the top tourism and meetings destinations in the US and received 21.9 million visitors in 2022. 

Make sure to check out Fisherman's Wharf, the Haight-Asbury district as well as the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz. Golden Gate Park and Chinatown are worthy of some time and try to visit Oracle Park - one of the best baseball stadiums in the US, for a San Francisco Giants game.

Taking a ferry ride to Sausalito is a joy on a warm day - and the Napa Valley is a popular day trip destination. Be prepared to spend big bucks on your wine tasting experiences.

One word of warning: be self aware. I once stepped just the wrong side of the Tenderloin district and entered a scary world of street people and drug abusers.

Be sure to wear some flowers in your hair, and for details on the brighter side of San Francisco see https://www.sftravel.com/

Wine trails are 10 a penny, but how about a cannabis trail?

 

Cannabis is all the rage right now. 

Visit Thailand and you can buy cannabis-infused drinks by the beach, or buy your spliff supply from a local version of a food truck. 

In Canada, you just pop into your local cannabis store to pick up a joint or two, or maybe some gummies.

In Australia, of course, you'll find police with sniffer dogs at railway stations trying to smell out someone with a marijuana cigarette on their person. But we are a little bit behind the times. 

In Oakland, California, they recently launched their own cannabis trail - which is being actively by the Visit Oakland tourism folks. 

Oakland has been at the forefront of cannabis education and compassionate patient access for decades. 

"California and especially the Bay Area is known for having the best cannabis in the world," says the retailers at Cookies Oakland. 

With the city facing economic issues, by the 1990s city leaders were open to exploring uncharted avenues for downtown revitalisation. 

The potential for much-needed commerce spurred a new perspective on cannabis regulation and taxation, long before other cities across the country followed suit. 

For two decades, Oakland has been a cannabis policy leader at the state and federal level. 

Several spots are officially recognized as Cultural Landmarks along The Cannabis Trail. 

In the Oaksterdam Uptown District, Blunts and Moore (above), and Harborside are historic markers of the short but busy history of cannabis in Oakland. 

Harborside is a pioneer of mainstream cannabis wellness and normalisation. It is here that the very first legal sale of recreational cannabis in California happened in 2016. 

Dotted throughout each diverse Oakland neighbourhoods are various cannabis shops featuring local product brands such as Fig Farms and Dark Heart Nursery.

From the canna-curious to canna-sseur, there is, apparently, something for everyone - and there is an official trail map featuring shops, places to chill out and recommended eateries. 

IMPORTANT NOTE: While cannabis is legal to purchase from licensed retailers in California, it is still illegal to consume cannabis in public. See Oakland Cannabis Trail. 

   

New Penfolds Grange hits $1000 a bottle mark

The soon-to-be released 2018 Penfolds Grange has hit the $1000 mark for a bottle for the first time - and fortunately the wine is a ripper.

I've dubbed it the Bruce Springsteen of wines; and scored it 99 points. Intense and stylish, it is rock 'n' roll in a glass.

Powerful but nuanced, it is more Thunder Road than Born in the USA, if you get my drift.    

"A well-dressed Grange...classy rock star! Or ‘a modern, classic Grange...sleek and finessed, with a punch!’ You choose," says Penfolds chief winemaker Peter Gago.

More notes and background when the wine- and its stablemates - get released. Of course, the price makes it a wine only for those with bulging wallets. 

The new Grange will hit the market on August 4 - and for once had to share the limelight at the annual Penfolds Collection tasting with the news that the annual Collection release will comprise three country of origin portfolios: Australian, Californian and the inaugural French release.

Gago says the wines all showcase the Penfolds ‘House Style’ in a global context.

Penfolds' ambition to make wine outside of Australia started decades ago and the portfolio now includes winemaking using fruit from across Australia (from South Australia to Tasmania), Champagne, the Napa Valley, Paso Robles in California and now Bordeaux in France.

Penfolds II is a partnership with French winemaking House Dourthe; a collaboration between Gago and Dourthe chief winemaker Frédéric Bonnaffous, that features a blend of grapes from Bordeaux (71%) and South Australia (29%).

The name “Penfolds II” represents two winemakers coming together.

Made from the 2019 vintage using cabernet, shiraz and merlot, the final wine was blended and bottled in South Australia by Penfolds winemakers. A weird concept that pushes the envelope.  

“This is the start of our French winemaking journey," says Gago. "Our main objective? To remain true to the winemaking ethos of both wineries, to deliver the best blend possible, to ideally make Bordeaux and South Australia proud.

"This wine is not about bigness or boldness or assertion. It is blended to convey an ethereal lightness, subtlety on the palate - sensitively binding two hemispheres, Old World and New.”

Also to be released in August is the 2019 Penfolds FWT 585, a French trial bin wine made of Bordeaux cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot.

The wine was made at Cambon la Pelouse Winery with Penfolds senior winemaker Emma Wood the guiding light.

Following the inaugural release of Penfolds Californian wines in 2021, the next generation will be part of the 2022 Collection. This year’s release features the 2019 Bin 149 Cabernet Sauvignon, Bin 704 Cabernet Sauvignon and Bin 600 Cabernet Shiraz.

Penfolds managing director Tom King said: “Penfolds is building a global ambition not just on paper but with our feet in vineyards across two hemispheres.

"We are focused on making Penfolds wines from the best winemaking regions globally. We started this journey with our partnership with Champagne (Thienot), then brought to life a 20-year endeavour with the California wine release, and now, we proudly introduce a partnership with leading a Bordeaux winery and reveal our own 2019 Trial Bin wine in France.”

This year’s Collection will be celebrated with a series of events globally, titled ‘Venture Beyond by Penfolds’.

The Penfolds Collection 2022 includes the following French wines: 2019 Penfolds II Cabernet Shiraz Merlot. $500; 2019 FWT 585 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot $120.00.

The Australian line-up is: 2018 Grange $1000.00, 2020 Yattarna Chardonnay $175.00, 2020 RWT Bin 798 Barossa Valley Shiraz $200.00, 2019 Bin 169 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon $300.00, 2020 Magill Estate Shiraz $150.00, 2019 St Henri Shiraz $135.00, 2021 Reserve Bin A Adelaide Hills Chardonnay $125.00, 2020 Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz $100.00, 2020 Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon $120.00, 2020 Bin 150 Marananga Shiraz $100.00, 2020 Bin 28 Shiraz $50.00, 2020 Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz $60.00, 2020 Bin 138 Barossa Valley Shiraz Grenache Mataro $60.00, 2021 Bin 23 Pinot Noir $50.00, 2021 Bin 311 Chardonnay $50.00, 2022 Bin 51 Eden Valley Riesling $40.00.

The Californian range is: 2019 Bin 149 Cabernet Sauvignon $225.00, 2019 Bin 704 Cabernet Sauvignon $120.00, 2019 Bin 600 Cabernet Shiraz $90.00.

A whole lot more o talk about on August 4. 

New stablemate for high-end LVMH wine brands

Leading Australian and New Zealand wine brands Cape Mentelle and Cloudy Bay now have a new Moet Hennessy stablemate after the global drinks giant announced it has acquired California wine business Joseph Phelps Vineyards.

The deal delivers Moet one of the best-known Californian wine labels, famous for its red table wines and premium Insignia label.

Moet Hennessy Chairman and CEO Philippe Schaus told media that the company had been looking around the world for larger winemakers that had the same dedication to quality, craftsmanship and entrepreneurship as LVMH.

Phelps was founded in 1973 by pioneering winemaker Joseph Phelps and produces around 750,000 bottles a year.

“It’s an iconic name and an iconic winery,” Schaus said. “It’s important for us that we are acquiring a family business with a legacy and heritage. It’s super important that we keep that heritage.”

The deal came as Moet Hennessy - whose dozens of brands include Dom Perignon, Moet & Chandon, Hennessy and Belvedere - rides a wave of demand for high-end drinks.

Deal of a lifetime? Wine every month for the rest of your life?

Would you pay US$6,000 up front to ensure you got the equivalent of four cases of wine delivered to your door each year for the rest of your life? 

I wouldn't, but a Californian wine company is offering members four bottles of wine per month for the entire duration of their lives, Drinks Business reports. 

It is an impressive way of getting an instant cash injection but would appear to be fraught with potential danger for wine lovers. 

What if the company goes belly up? What if it gets bought out? What if you die suddenly? 

And it is certainly a better deal for someone aged 21 than 65. Get your grandkids to sign up for you should you be seduced by the idea. 

California-based Obvious Wines has launched the ‘lifelong wine membership" deal for 2022. 

For US$6,000, members can order any four bottles of wine from the company’s website per month, every month, for the rest of their life.

Any wine currently listed on the Obvious Wines website is eligible for order and shipping and taxes within the US are covered. Limited-edition wines are also eligible.

Calling it “an excellent deal when considering rising inflation rates”, Jake Ralph from Obvious Wines says members will see a “return on their investment in just seven years”. If they live that long. 

“We’ve done the math and is is a really bad deal for us, but hey, you only live once,” says a statement on the company's website.

Obvious Wines describes itself as an eco-friendly, vegan wine collection that collaborates with family-owned, boutique wineries dedicated to sustainable practices ranging from solar-powered energy to organic farming.

Its wines include Bright & Crisp, a sauvignon blanc from the Loire Valley; Rich & Oaky, a Californian chardonnay; and Dark & Bold, a red blend made of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, tannat and malbec.

I can see the appeal but would not be tempted even if I lived in the US. Which I wouldn't. Make your own decision. But I’m sure someone in Australia will come up with a similar scheme.

Meet the Californian versions of an Australian wine icon

Penfolds wines are a uniquely Australian Australian icon; like Vegemite, Bondi Beach and the Hills Hoist. 

Penfolds Grange is Australia's highest-profile wine, which means news today of the launch of a Penfolds range of wines from California might prove controversial. 

The release of the 2021 Penfolds California Collection on March 4 follows over 20 years of company interest and experiments in the US. 

"Over 20 years ago, Penfolds started exploring the bountiful soils of California, with an ambition to create a range of wines unrestricted by vine, border or continent," says chief winemaker Peter Gago. 

"Today, Penfolds winemakers pick up where previous generations left off, to unveil four new Californian wines that extol an otherworldliness and something special."

The California’ Collection will comprise four wines: 2018 Quantum Bin 98 Cabernet Sauvignon ($950), 2018  2018 Bin 149 Cabernet Sauvignon ($220), 2018 Bin 704 Cabernet Sauvignon ($110) and 2018 Bin 600 Cabernet Shiraz ($90). 

The two flagship wines that lead the collection, 2018 Quantum Bin 98 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2018 Bin 149 Cabernet Sauvignon, can be referred to as "wines of the world" as they comprise predominantly Napa Valley cabernet parcels but each wine also contains a significant addition of flagship-worthy shiraz (Quantum) and cabernet (Bin 149) from South Australia. 

“A quality-first approach underpins this inaugural release, led by 2018 Quantum," says Gago. "This blend assembles parcels of prized cabernet sauvignon from some of the Napa Valley’s best vineyards and pedigreed shiraz from South Australia. This is a first for Penfolds.”

Chief winemaker Gago, senior winemaker Stephanie Dutton and winemaker Andrew Baldwin re-established Penfolds footprint within the northern hemisphere, selecting fruit from Californian vineyards including Napa Valley AVAs Oakville, Diamond Mountain, District, Howell Mountain and Rutherford. Grapes were also sourced from Camatta Hills, Paso Robles, from original Australian vine cuttings planted in 1998 and 1999.

Penfolds California Collection will be available from Thursday, March 4, at www.penfolds.com.