TarraWarra Estate adds new premium wine experiences

One of my very first gigs as a wine writer was attending the opening of TarraWarra Estate in Victoria's Yarra Valley. 

Owners Marc and Eva Besen put on quite a show. 

 

Four decades on, Ultimate Winery Experiences Australia (UWEA) has welcomed TarraWarra as the newest member of its collection of premium Australian wineries.

TarraWarra Estate brings together cool-climate wine, food, art and nature across a 400-hectare property in the heart of one of Australia's most-visited wine regions.

The Besens purchased the property in 1979 and launched four or five years later. 

Today, the estate encompasses 23.9 hectares of vines, an extensive nature reserve, cattle grazing, a kitchen garden, cellar door and restaurant, as well as a spectacular art gallery. 

UWEA executive officer Sarah Myers says TarraWarra Estate's combination of wine, food, art, impressive architecture and landscape makes it a natural addition to the collective.

“What makes TarraWarra special is how seamlessly these elements come together. Visitors can spend time exploring the estate, discovering its wines and food, and engaging with the art, architecture and natural environment in a way that feels distinctly Yarra Valley,” said Myers.

“TarraWarra reflects what we look for in an Ultimate Winery Experience – it goes well beyond wine tasting and gives visitors a deeper connection to the winery, its story and the region."

At the heart of TarraWarra Estate is its striking subterranean cellar door, where visitors can explore wines including chardonnay, pinot noir and syrah, alongside barbera, nebbiolo, pinot noir rosé and a roussanne-viognier-marsanne blend from talented winemaker Sarah Fagan. 

The chef-hatted restaurant is led by head chef Daniel Snooks. 

Two signature experiences will form part of TarraWarra Estate's UWEA offering.

The Vineyard Tour & Tasting ($200 per person) takes guests on a guided tour of the vineyards for an introduction to the estate and its approach to sustainable viticulture, before moving into the barrel hall for a private tasting of chardonnay and pinot noir. 

For a deeper immersion, Land, Vine & Vision ($450 pp) sees guests are welcomed at the cellar door before enjoying a six-course lunch with matched wines at the estate restaurant, followed by a visit to the TarraWarra Museum of Art and the Eva and Marc Besen Centre, where they can view works from the museum's collection that would ordinarily be held in storage. A version including private return transfers from Melbourne is also available for $750 per person.

“We are excited to work with Ultimate Winery Experiences Australia and the wineries it represents, each offering a unique perspective on Australian wine and the regions we call home,” said TarraWarra Estate general manager Samantha Isherwood.

TarraWarra Estate is at 311 Healesville-Yarra Glen Road, Yarra Glen. 

The cellar door is open Tuesday to Sunday, with the restaurant open Wednesday to Sunday for lunch.

Rick Stein’s style shines; even if he’s not in the house

Celebrity chefs put a lot of faith in their staff when they open multiple outposts.

The big-name pan handlers are invariably on site for the first few weeks, but then they have to trust the chefs and front of house staff they have hired to make sure standards are maintained.

That's particularly important when, like restaurateur, cookery book author and television presenter Rick Stein, you have a global reputation to uphold.

Rick Stein at Coogee Beach opened just before Christmas last year and is still pulling in the crowds. The 224-seat restaurant in the same building as The InterContinental Sydney Coogee Beach hosts the signature restaurant, bar dining and courtyard terrace.

We've sampled Stein venues in Padstow in Cornwall before and when I checked in last week everything in Sydney was operating exactly as the English seafood chef, and honorary Australian, would have wished.

There was a full house for Friday lunch but everything was working with clockwork precision.

The vibe is beachfront casual - with design from Stein's Australian wife Sarah, and artworks by Australian artist Brigit Thomas adorning the walls and featuring on the front page of the menu, including a striking giant squid and a shimmering school of fish.

The staff are seasoned hospitality professionals. Giovanni and Zara, who looked after us, were hugely impressive - and the kitchen brigade delivered a very tasty repaste of trademark Stein flavours.

We selected sashimi of salmon, kingfish, tuna and scallops (above), served with wakame, pickled ginger, wasabi, sashimi dressing (freshness personified), and an absolutely superb twice-baked spanner crab soufflé with thermidor sauce (below) as our starters.

We followed up with two Padstow favourites: Rick’s fish and chips deep fried in dripping, served with chips, mushy peas and tartare sauce. The batter was crispy, the fish moist and flaky but I didn't enjoy the texture of the mushy peas. Picky. 

The Newlyn fish pie (below) was chock-a-block with salmon, ling, monkfish, prawns, mussels and mushrooms in a creamy seafood velouté, topped with breadcrumbs and parmesan.

We shared a dessert: a classic crème brûlée with almond biscotti. along with glasses of a deliciously zingy artisan mandarin-infused limoncello.

Our wine choice was the 2024 Rick Stein White Burgundy, a house wine selected by Rick Stein and his son Charlie and a perfect match for seafood dishes. But only after my wife had sampled the deliciously dry 2024 Graci Etna Rosato from Sicily.

There is an impressive wine list by both the glass and bottle with a nice balance between Australian wines and quality imports.

Well worth a visit whether or not Stein is in the house.  

Note: Rick Stein at Coogee Beach is a cashless venue, although I'm sure the staff prefer their tips as cash.

See https://www.ricksteinatcoogeebeach.com.au/

# The writer was hosted by Rick Stein at Coogee Beach

A wine region hotel where old meets new

Rutherglen is a small town in north-east Victoria that draws wine lovers from around Australia to sample its bold reds and legendary fortifieds.

When I lasted visited - a few year ago now - the Victoria Hotel was just another old pub on the main street.

Built in 1868, it had history on its side, but looked in need of some care and attention. 

The Victoria began as a modest wooden building before being transformed into a two-storey brick landmark by the magnificently named Shadrack Platts Gollings in 1893.

With its heritage features -including Rutherglen’s original mortuary tucked just beyond the carriage gates - The Victoria proudly holds Victoria’s longest continually operating hotel licence.

In 2021, Kate and Matt Halpin became the custodians of this historic landmark.

The couple returned to their regional origins, adopting the philosophy of "city style meets country soul."

Their vision was to honour The Victoria’s heritage while transforming it into a modern destination that celebrates connection, community, and the spirit of the High Country.

Boy, have they succeeded.



After a multi-million-dollar restoration, they have managed to preserve the hotel’s historic character while introducing contemporary comforts. So much so that last year The Victoria was named ‘Best Redeveloped Hotel in Victoria’ by the Australian Hotels Association.

When I stayed last month in one of the 14 impressive and spacious suites, the popular restaurant (open seven days for lunch and dinner) offering award-winning regional cuisine was jumping, even on a chilly midweek night.

So think elevated, flame-focused dining right on the main street (make sure to try the Pillow bread and the croquettes) just a short drive from cellar doors including my hosts at Morris, All Saints, Campbells, Stanton and Killen, Scion, Pfeiffer and other desirable destinations.

The main street is home to Thousand Pound wine bar, boutiques, cafés and the legendary Parker Pies shop.



For anyone arriving late, or checking out early, there is keyless experience with contactless check-in. The technology works!

The suites feature air-conditioning and heating, flat-screen TV, Hunter Lab bathroom amenities, good sized fluffy towels, tea and coffee-making facilities, a phone charger that works, free high-speed wifi, a bar fridge, off-street guest parking and bath robes and slippers.

There is a lively bar, the restaurant and several shared rooms like the clubby The Library.

* Rutherglen is Around 30 minutes drive from the regional hubs of Albury/Wodonga, Wangaratta and Yarrawonga, The Victoria is an ideal base from which to explore surrounding heritage townships like Beechworth, Milawa, Chiltern, Wahgunyah and Corowa. Or venture a little further afield for a day trip to the King Valley, Alpine snowfields or picturesque Bright & Myrtleford, located less than 90 minutes away.

You can book direct at https://www.victoriahotelrutherglen.com.au/ 

# The writer was a guest of Morris of Rutherglen and Casella Family Brands 

New luxury lodge to elevate the Saddles experience

Multi millionaire advertising mogul John Singleton is splashing out on The Grand Saddles Lodge, which will open this spring on NSW’s Central Coast. 

The opening will marking a new chapter for Saddles Mount White.

The luxury retreat will bring together "20 private villas, exceptional dining, an elegant piano bar, a restorative day spa and bespoke local experiences". 

The work aims to transform the Saddles precinct into a complete luxury destination where guests can stay, dine and reconnect with nature.

Saddles is Just under an hour from Sydney, where bushland meets the waterways of the Hawkesbury and the Central Coast begins. 

Set opposite the The Homestead at Saddles restaurant, The Lodge aims to offer "thoughtful luxury". 

Designed by Michelle Leslie alongside White + Dickson Architects, The Lodge seeks to reflect Singleton's appreciation for hospitality and his connection to the region. 

Hidden among the trees, The Lodge's villas have been conceived as peaceful retreats. Each villa features separate living spaces, an open fireplace, private terrace and plunge pool, while a communal infinity pool and pool bar overlook the surrounding bushland.

Located within the main building at The Lodge, the restaurant will showcase the best of Australian produce, while evening activities will centre on Ned's, an intimate Art Deco-inspired piano bar. 

Beyond The Lodge, guests can wander walking trails through the surrounding bushland, visit nearby oyster farms, or explore the Hawkesbury River. 

Bookings for The Grand Saddles Lodge will open this spring.

Image: Ryan Linnegar

Saint Peter marks birthday milestone with a new book

On September 1, Sydney dining icon Saint Peter celebrates its 10th birthday with a new book from chef patron Josh Niland.

Niland and wife Julie opened Saint Peter in 2016 on Oxford St in Paddington.

The restaurant has moved to new digs in the same suburbs, and gained international acclaim along the way. Our dinner there last year was a masterclass in hospitality.

"A lot has happened in the 10 years since," Niland says. "We have met some incredible people, cooked for you - our wonderful guests - and had the pleasure to work alongside and employ some very talented professionals."

The new Niland book is called Saint Peter: Chapter and Verse.

It comprises three essays sitting alongside just over 100 dishes, photographed by David Loftus, published by Hardie Grant Books.

"The essays are about how the restaurant came to be, the business learnings along the way and the incredible highs and lows of the last decade," Niland says. "The recipes are the ones the restaurant has been built on for 10 years and include all the favourites. Documenting, cooking and shooting them all was truly a labour of love."

Pre-orders are now available at good book shops.

"Pre-orders are an important signal to the big bookstores of demand so this is, of course, very helpful ahead of the release," Niland says.

"As a thank you for pre-ordering, Julie has been working on a very special prize draw for Australian pre-orders, plus a gift for everyone who pre-orders worldwide. Keep your email receipt and we will send the full details [to mailing list members] in the coming weeks, including how to enter the draw and how to receive your thank you gift."

Hardie Grant Publishing says: "The book moves between story and craft – tracing the evolution of the restaurant, articulating Niland’s revolutionary whole fish approach, and offering a rare, deeply considered look at the mechanics of service.

"Recipes are presented as ‘verses’, interwoven through the narrative, spanning everything from foundational preparations to the dishes that have defined Saint Peter’s menus, including its most iconic and unexpected creations."

You can have a look at the book here: https://www.saintpeter.com.au/saintpeterbook

Saint Peter Chapter & Verse: The making of Sydney’s legendary seafood restaurant – in over 100 recipes. By Josh Niland. Published September 1 by Hardie Grant Books. $80/$90 NZD.

Bird in Hand celebrates love for Tasmania

Andrew and Susie Nugent have an ongoing love affair with Tasmania and its cool-climate wines.

The founders of Adelaide Hills winery Bird in Hand - known for its outstanding restaurant - now control two vineyards on the island state and have opened their new hospitality venture at the lovely Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens in Hobart.

With former Saffire head chef Paddy Prenter heading the kitchen brigade, Bird in Hand this week celebrated the opening of its new restaurant, kiosk and a wine tasting facility in the gardens.

The Friday night opening was blessed with some rare balmy autumnal Tasmanian weather.

The tasting room, restaurant and kiosk will all offer different experiences and Bird in Hand will also manage weddings and bespoke events. 

I can't imagine anywhere nicer than the veranda to enjoy a glass or two on a sunny day.

The Nugents expect a restaurant dining experience akin to Bird in Hand’s LVN Restaurant at Woodside, with the  spectacular dining room showcasing local produce, art, flora and fauna of Tasmania.

The tasting room will showcase Bird in Hand cool-climate wines - including those from the East Coast and West Tamar vineyards - alongside a selection of other locally crafted beverages.

The 14-hectare Botanical Gardens has housed rare, native and intriguing plants for over 200 years. It also offers a thriving kitchen garden.

"We've long known about the quality of wines from Tasmania, and now we have our own vineyard at Seymour, north of Bicheno, and custodianship of  Waterton Hall in the Tamar, as well as the very special privilege of being in Hobart," Nugent said at the launch. 

"We'd known about the potential of sparkling wines from Tasmania but to be perfectly honest we didn't understand what an extraordinarily special place this is - the beauty of the land and its people is unsurpassed. 

"We want to contribute to the community, to the producers and the environment.

"We will do our very best to do justice to this magnificent site."     

* The writer was a guest of Bird in Hand

New restaurant is a tribute to a legend

 

Mietta O'Donnell was a legendary Melbourne restaurateur, who is fondly remember a quarter of a century after her death.

Mietta's was an conic restaurant much loved by the the city's movers and shakers, and O'Donnell was  also an influential figure in the arts and cultural world.

Now a new restaurant named in her honour: Miettas, has opened as a fine dining destination at The Queenscliff Hotel on the Ballarine Peninsula, where she once oversaw the property when it was Mietta's Queenscliff in the 1970s.

With a kitchen brigade led by executive chef Salvatore Giorgio, Miettas aims to establish itself as a destination restaurant, with a one-seating-per-service model "designed to create a relaxed and elevated experience". 

Giorgio, former owner and chef of Bar Taralli, has built "a strong reputation for honest, flavour-driven cooking grounded in southern Italian tradition", the local tourism authority reports. The chef has worked at kitchens including Marnong Estate, Scopri, and Bar Bambi.

The menu includes hand-crafted pasta, local seafood and premium meats with an Italian accent. 

There are two degustation menus for $115 and $135 per person, as well as vegetarian and Vegan options.

See thequeenscliffhotel.com.au

Crudo adds a new gourmet offering to Gippsland waterfront

Gippsland has a new gourmet destination with the opening of Crudo | Wine & Provisions in Lakes Entrance.

 

The new Mediterranean-inspired deli and wine store is part of popular waterfront restaurant Sodafish and has opened on the lower deck beneath the floating restaurant.

Following five successful years of Sodafish, executive chef and owner Nick Mahlook decided to  expanded his operation, creating a providore experience that brings together local seafood, European pantry staples and a wine selection in a relaxed coastal setting.

Crudo - Italian for ‘raw’ - aims to replaicte the Sodafish ethos with quality, simplicity and respect for produce, including gourmet offerings from Spain, Italy and France.



Guests can browse cheeses, anchovies, sardines and antipasto ingredients, plus pantry staples designed to elevate everyday cooking. 

Freshly baked breads and sourdough pizza slices are available daily, with toppings such as mortadella, stracciatella and pistachio, or capers, confit tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella. 

Sounds good for picnics, or anyone in self-catering accommodation in the sun, sand and surf destination. 

Crudo also offers grazing platters for pre-orders, also ideal for picnics, boating days or entertaining. A new jetty allows guests to pull up by boat, collect a platter and wine, and head back onto the Gippsland Lakes.

Images: Nicky Cawood

Meet a $35 two-course business lunch in Melbourne CBD

How does a two-course business lunch served within the hour sound?

Even better, with a price tag of $35 - almost unheard of in the Melbourne CBD.

I've just added French-Italian La Madonna’s new lunch menu to my list for next time I am in bleak city and need sustanance.

The $35 for two courses menu in the Next Hotel complex is designed by head chef Jacopo Degli Esposti (Italian-born and Paris trained) and draws upon his Italian heritage.



La Madonna is now open up for lunch Tuesday to Friday 12pm-2pm with an entrée and main to choose, or three courses for $45 (entrée, main and pasta).

Menu options includesteak frites with pepper sauce; poached and roasted octopus with caponata and gremolata; or beef cheek bourguignon.

Desserts like tiramisu and lemon popsicle can be added, while there is also an option to upgrade with sides like cauliflower gratin.

The menu is designed to be served quicker than at dinner service - built around 40-minute reservations to suit office workers and business lunches.

La Madonna is at Level 3, 103 Little Collins Street, Melbourne.

Change of pace for exclusive Bordeaux hostelry

One of the very best addresses in the vineyards of Bordeaux will re-open for the summer season with a refresh and a new name.

COMO Hotels and Resorts has taken over the historic Cordeillan-Bages property, with the rebranded COMO Cordeillan-Bages scheduled to open for stays in May. 

The 19th-century château in Pauillac was converted into a hotel and restaurant in 1989 by the Cazes family (the owners of Château Lynch-Bages among others).

It is home to a restaurant that has been helmed by several esteemed chefs.

COMO Cordeillan-Bages will mark COMO's debut in one of the world’s most celebrated wine regions but it does have French properties in COMO Le Beauvallon in Saint-Tropez and COMO Le Montrachet, a delightful village' inn at Puligny-Montrachet, Burgundy.

It says: "This intimate 28-room retreat brings together craftsmanship, understated luxury, and a profound appreciation for food and wine in the heart of the Médoc.

"With interiors by longstanding design partner Paola Navone, the beautifully restored 19th-century estate pairs contemporary comfort with the quiet elegance of Pauillac.

"A destination for true wine lovers, offering privileged access to Château Lynch-Bages and Bordeaux’s most legendary vineyards."

A stay or a meal will not be cheap, but the setting is superb. The property is exclusive and exquisite - when we dined a couple of decades ago Yves Saint-Laurent was among our fellow guests. 

To Japan's ski slopes from Australia via Bali

Take an Australian chef who has worked in Bali and then place him in Japan's hottest ski resort.

Masonry Japan opens on December 12 in Niseko with head chef Tom Jack at the helm.

Jack has honed his craft alongside kitchen legend Ben Cross in Bali and at Japanese-influenced kitchens in Australia,

He will lead the new opening from the Bali-born restaurant group that is known for its Mediterranean wood-fired cooking.

Masonry Japan will be located at the ski-in, ski-out Niseko Kyo Condo Hotel in Upper Hirafu.

“Having worked closely with Tom in our Bali venues, and knowing his background in kitchens shaped by Japanese flavours [including Shōbōsho in Adelaide and hôntô in Brisbane], he brings a clarity and balance that is right for Niseko," says Cross.

"The restaurant brings an easy warmth to the region, built for long lunches, lively après ski drinks and evenings that roll on

"Guests can expect an a la carte lunch, and set menu experience at dinner. Dishes are shaped by local produce, including the richness of Hokkaido milk, winter seafood and the fragrance of mountain herbs, all brought into focus through fire."

Menu highlights include house-made halloumi using Hokkaido milk with buckwheat honey and kombu; yellowfin tuna crudo with smoked egg yolk and citrus; giant Hokkaido scallops cooked gently over fire with seaweed butter, and Furano Wagyu striploin with mandarin kosho.

Also think wood-fried king crab with dashi brown butter; and miso and Hokkaido milk ice cream with 
winter honey.

Bar director Zac de Git, previously of Tippling Club Singapore, has created a cocktail list that moves between familiar favourites and drinks shaped for the colder climate.

Niseko Kyo Hotel Upper Hirafu, Kutchan, Hokkaido 044-0082, Japan 

https://www.nisekokyo.com/

New gourmet destination on the Bellarine Peninsula

Oakdene is one of the standout wine producers on the Bellarine Peninsula outside Geelong.

Now the Hooley family behind Oakdene is opening a new multi-million dollar wine, art and dining destination later this week.

Quiddity Place, surrounded by vines and olive groves (above), brings together a restaurant (Hidden Frog, led by chef Dwayne Bourke, who has 25+ years of experience), a cellar door and two art galleries.

There will also be boutique vineyard accommodation overlooking Swan Bay.

The sprawling Mannerim property has 60 acres of vines and more than 6,000 olive trees producing Lighthouse Olive Oil.

The family-friendly, non smoking facility features a gift shop, electric vehicle charging point and function spaces. 

Hidden Frog will open for lunch Wednesday to Sunday, and dinner Friday and Saturday nights. 

Think small plates like pan-seared scallops with edamame puree and miso butter, or pork belly with maple caramel pears, kohlrabi and radish salad. 

Bigger plates may include baked Roman-style pumpkin gnocchi with tomato sugo, broccolini and gremolata, or slow-cooked lamb shoulder, red pepper jam, zucchini caponata and new potatoes. 

All dishes can be matched with Oakdene wines. 

See https://www.quiddityplace.com.au/

Cullen Wines shuts down its restaurant

Sad news for Margaret River locals and wine and food-loving locals. 

Cullen Wines has closed its on-site restaurant with immediate effect. 

"While we have loved entertaining our restaurant guests at our beautiful location in our biodynamic vineyard, sustained operational challenges, including difficulty recruiting staff for fine dining service, have led to this decision," Vanya Cullen announced on social media and the winery website. 

"We thank you for your support and are sorry for any inconvenience. 

"At this stage we are still taking inquiries about functions, and in the future, we hope to return with a food offering that reflects the Cullen Wines experience and allows us to showcase our biodynamic wines."

The closure does not impact the cellar door, which remains open seven days a week 10am to 4.30pm. 

Premier wine tourism operation hits the market

A leading wine tourism operation in regional Victoria has just hit the market.

Cannibal Creek Vineyards in West Gippsland, just an hour south-east of Melbourne, is being sold by the Hardiker family.

The property includes an award-winning cellar door and restaurant, a fully equipped winery plus a renovated three-bedroom home with a pool.

Sitting on 27.9 hectares, including 4.3 hectares under vine, it is surrounded by its namesake Cannibal Creek, Mount Cannibal and Bunyip State Park.

The vineyard comprises chardonnay and pinot noir vines, along with sauvignon blanc, merlot and cabernet sauvignon.

Kirsten and Patrick Hardiker planted the vines 28 years ago and told GoTR they hope to sell the business in its entirety on a walk-in, walk-out basis, saying the property has become too much for them to manage.

"Pat has had a series of operations over the years: hips, shoulder, back and most recently knees and it has become too much for us," co-owner and manager Kirsten said. "Unfortunately our adult children have pursued different professions. 

"We still love the process of growing grapes and making wine, less so the selling of it. The restaurant (below) and cellar door are well patronised, but it is time for a different, and possibly younger, outfit to take it on."

The property is being sold by Matt Rice from Facey Commercial and Ben Rose, from Castran, who is also a vineyard consultant.

Among the suggested possibilities, subject to council permission, are expanding the size of the vineyard and winery operations, and/or the restaurant and cellar door, as well as extending the opening hours.

There is also the idea of building accommodation on the site and capitalising on its scale and scenery to become a destination for weddings and events.

"This unique lifestyle property provides the opportunity to be creative, social and active in a beautiful environment,” said Rice.

“You can do as little or as much as you choose with options to contract out the winery operation or lease out the restaurant, if running and growing the operation is not your preference.”

Tynong North is on the edge of West Gippsland in the Port Phillip wine region, which is in easy day-trip distance for Melburnians and visitors to Victoria.

For details see https://www.commercialrealestate.com.au/news/acclaimed-vineyard-restaurant-cannibal-creek-for-sale-1387757/

Double duty for star chef Kellie

There are some busy times ahead for star Adelaide chef Jake Kellie.

Kellie, who guides star eatery arkhé, has this week also taken the reins as culinary director at luxury Barossa estate Kingsford The Barossa.

Kellie will lead Kingsford’s Orleana Restaurant as well as the broader food offering across the boutique hotel.

He is charged with re-shaping the restaurant’s offering that promises to be a celebration of the region's rich produce. 

"Kellie’s bold cooking style and immersive approach to dining is in perfect synergy with the vision for Orleana, a restaurant designed to showcase the depth of produce in the region and complement the legacy and landscape of the Kingsford Estate, says Salter Brothers Hospitality Chief Operating Officer, Andrea Richards.

"He’s built an outstanding reputation with some of the world’s best chefs including Gordon Ramsay and Heston Blumenthal, honing his craft at revered restaurants including The Fat Duck (UK), The Ledbury (UK), Estelle (Melbourne), Aria (Sydney) and most notably as head chef at Michelin-starred Burnt Ends in Singapore that also inspired his own restaurant, arkhé.

“As one of Australia’s finest chefs, his approach to food is fearless, refined, and grounded in deep respect for produce and technique. He pushes boundaries without losing sight of authenticity, which is exactly why he resonates so strongly with today’s guests.”

The dining space at Orleana sits within Kingsford’s luxury lodge, surrounded by 225-acres of native Australian landscape.

The restaurant serves both a la carte and a chef’s selection with ingredients harvested either on-site from the estate’s kitchen garden or sourced via a network of local growers.

A big task given he will also continue to oversee arkhé, his Norwood restaurant.

“This is a place where food is grown with care, cooked with purpose, and served with humility," Kellie says.

"It's a place where guests are invited to connect - with the region, the producers, and the stories behind each plate. I believe that modern Australian cuisine is not defined by trend, but by terroir - and that thoughtful food, grown and cooked with integrity, creates meaningful hospitality.

“For me, Orleana is a chance to bring something fresh and grounded to the Barossa, a restaurant that’s shaped by the seasons, the producers we work with, and the amazing team behind it. I want to create food that feels honest and generous and build a culture that supports that at every level. There’s so much potential here, and I’m keen to bring it to life.” 

See https://kingsfordbarossa.com.au/ 

New Brisbane venue with a view goes for gold

There's a new hot spot for dining with a view in Brisbane.

The Summit Restaurant has just opened at Mt Coot-tha and boasts spectacular vistas.

The new venue is a multi-million-dollar revitalisation of the heritage-listed site overlooking the 2032 Olympic Games city.

Think a dining room in the heritage building, a brewpub-style public bar, and a veranda with those panoramic views across Brisbane and out to Moreton Bay.

The food will be modern Australian using Queensland ingredients, including Elliott Heads spanner crab, Daintree barramundi and Longreach organic lamb - alongside ingredients grown on-site.

Queensland hospitality heavyweight Kym Machin, renowned for his time at acclaimed Brisbane institution Urbane, is the driving forced in the kitchen.

 


“With this menu, we wanted to tell a story of place, showcasing the best of Queensland while exploring our diverse climates, regions and native ingredients,” Machin said.

“When you’re standing at The Summit, you can see for miles - from the city to the bay and out to the hinterland - and we wanted the menu to reflect that sense of scale and beauty.

“In a destination as iconic as this, it’s essential that we celebrate and represent the growers, producers and communities who make Queensland so special. It’s not just about great food; it’s about creating a genuine connection to this land and the people who shape it.”

Menu highlights include Goldband snapper with wild garlic and native ginger; roast duck smoked over paperbark; as well as almond-fed pork with pickled apples, and pumpkin agnolotti with candied shoots.

There will be two tasting menus ($79 and $99), while the Bar Share menu highlights dishes like goat cheese puffs, lamb tacos and beef and beetroot tartare.

Mantle Group founder Godfrey Mantle said the opening of The Summit represents a major milestone for the group.

“The Summit is one of the most unique dining sites in the country; beautiful by day
and absolutely spectacular at night,” Mantle said.

The opening of The Summit Restaurant marks the first step in Mantle Group’s broader vision for the Mt Coot-tha summit, which includes concepts for a two-level Pavilion venue, a boutique gin distillery and a cultural tourism experience that will honour the mountain’s rich history and significance.

The Summit Restaurant is open seven days from 11am. See summitbrisbane.com.au

Shining for you: new/old team takes the helm at Yellow

Change is in the air. 

The Bentley Restaurant Group’s Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt have announced the sale of their much-loved restaurant, Yellow, to long-time head chef Sander Nooij and his business partner Mark Hanover.

The new iteration of Yellow - maintaining a plant-based ethos - was unveiled this week. 

Yellow, launched by the team behind Bentley Restaurant + Bar, Monopole, King Clarence and Eleven Barrack, was the first vegan restaurant awarded two chefs hats in the Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide.

Recognising a demand for vegan dining in Sydney, Savage and Hildebrandt transitioned Yellow from a French-accented bistro to having a stronger focus on plant-based dining after opening in 2013. 

The restaurant has become known for its six-course set menu that highlights unique heirloom vegetables and local suppliers. 

When you get an opportunity to pass on a restaurant like Yellow to a much-loved staff member, you don't pass it up," Savage said. 

"Sander has been an integral part of Yellow’s success, and we couldn’t be more proud to see him take the lead and bring his vision to life. We’ve had a big couple of months launching Eleven Barrack, and we’re looking forward to focusing on Sydney’s CBD, where our venues all currently are.”

Nooij and Hanover seek to transition away from traditional labels such as “vegan” and “plant-based” to embrace a new culinary identity; botanical gastronomy.

Nooij said: “Botanical gastronomy is a culinary approach that celebrates the vibrant world of plants, herbs, and flowers. Free from animal products yet rich in flavour, we emphasise seasonality, sustainability and the extraordinary. 

"Our goal is to create a dining experience that is not just for vegans, but for anyone who values creativity, refinement, and the beauty of nature on their plates. 

"Free from the controversy and politics that can be part of the vegan narrative, botanical gastronomy merges elements of contemporary cuisine with a strong emphasis on botanical ingredients, showcasing their flavours, textures, and nutritional advantages.”

For reservations and updates visit www.yellowsydney.com.au

Image: Andrea Veltom

A new Sydney eatery has different designs

New restaurants usually focus on their food and wine offerings, but a new Italian CBD venue is also "design led". 

Venue entrepreneur, businessman, designer and hotelier Raffaelle Lombardi is combining with  his interior designer wife Victoria Hampshire (daughter of shopping guru Jilly Hampshire and niece of actress/hotelier/designer Anouska Hempel) to create Conte Sydney, an ambitious multi-level, multi-purpose drinks and dining destination that will open next month.

Conte Sydney will be the sibling of Bar Conte in Surry Hills, promoted as the world’s first dedicated negroni bar.

Now Lombardi and Hampshire have landed in Clarence St in Sydney with a European but contemporary drinks and dining space a long-held ambition of Lombardi and Hampshire. It will feature late-night dining.

“I have dreamt of this concept for the past 10 years," says Lombardi.

"The negroni is, of course, my drink of choice and has been since I was a young man growing up in Sorrento on the Amalfi Coast.

"It's the ultimate pre-dinner drink and pastime but there has always been more to Bar Conte in us. The venue’s popularity has completely blown us away so the time felt right for a larger, ‘grown-up’ offering realising the dream of a chic and contemporary dining and drinks space that we know Sydneysiders will want to visit as much as we do!”

The 130-seat, multi-level space, will feature signature moss green tiles and contrasting green marbles and deep brass highlights to complement the inside of a deep, red-walled room.

Wallpapers from Milan brand Fornasetti, and Italian leather seats will also star.

“I have always been attracted to the intensity of deep green and brass," says Hampshire.

"The moss green tiles and Verde Alpe marble complement the warmth of the parquetry floor and the deep red walls adorned with rare posters, then we have the brass accents, a Victoria Hampshire Designs trademark. These elements reference our home, hotels, life and travels in Italy.”

Diners can expect an a la carte menu with an Italian accent, and a 40+ choice negroni list.

Conte Sydney will have the largest collection of Italian Vermouth, Amari (digestives), and Italian Gin seen in one venue. The team will introduce both negroni and martini food pairing experiences.

Conte Sydney will be at 151 Clarence Street, Sydney and will be open Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday 11am-midnight, and Thursday, Friday, Saturday from 11am–1am. Details will be unveiled at https://www.barconte.com.au/. Opening date is April 2. 

Teakle family wine dream lives on

Regional wine pioneer Peter Teakle was a man with a vision.

And even though Teakle died last year his dream lives on. 

Founded by Peter Teakle in 2016, the business now known as Teakle Wines is based out of the wine mainstream at Port Lincoln on South Australia's Eyre Peninsula.

Teakle made his fortune printing wine labels, transforming his family's Adelaide business, Collotype Labels, into a global multi-million-dollar company.

He was so impressed with Port Lincoln after visiting that he decided it would be the perfect place for his impending semi-retirement. And a place that could become a tourism hotspot. 

The venue is now a regional landmark, offering much more than just wines.

"Peter’s commitment to transforming Port Lincoln and the Eyre Peninsula into a premier food and wine destination was evident in everything he did," his family said.

Peter’s philanthropy and unwavering support for the wider Port Lincoln community will be remembered and cherished. He leaves an indelible mark on our community, our region and our industry.

"Without doubt, Peter’s greatest strength was his ability to bring people together and he genuinely loved the personal and professional relationships he developed across his many endeavours.

Peter was the patriarch of our family and our business. We look forward to continuing his legacy for generations to come."

The business is being expanded by Teakle's family with expansive vineyards overlooking the fishing town, a tasting facility, winery tours, the Line & Label restaurant and some beautiful gardens that host picnics and gatherings.

“We are proud to carry forward my father’s vision”, says son Ben Teakle, now managing director, said at a recent re-launch of the brand. 

“While our wines will continue to evolve with the climate, our commitment to quality will never waver.”

The new Teakle Wines logo (above) draws inspiration from the barrel-shaped architecture of the cellar door. 

The wines are made by talented Liz Heidenreich, formerly of Wirra Wirra, Wolf Blass and Sevenhill, as well having her own Barossa -based wine brand.

 

I'm working my way through the current Teakle releases and have enjoyed the texturally interesting 2024 Riesling. 

See www.teaklewines.com

A fusion of flavours is a Sydney feast for the senses

Nikkei cuisine is a fusion of Peruvian and Japanese flavours.

It is served in an elevated form at Callao, one of the standout restaurants in the Streets of Barangaroo gourmet precinct on the Sydney waterfront.

Opened just over a year ago, the flavours on offer at the 104-seat eatery have clearly hit the target.

There is a hip young crowd on hand: both the customers and the very efficient servers.

And the quality of the food, with the two distinctive cuisines delivering intriguing combinations, is matched by a drinks list peppered with cocktails, Japanese whiskies, and some astutely chosen wines (think names like O’Leary Walker, Bream Creek, Giant Steps and Moss Wood by the glass).

Japanese Peruvian cuisine is a global trend right now and Nikkei is the word used to describe immigrants of Japanese origin - of which there are many in Peru.

Nikkei food is characterized by its use of the wide variety of ingredients available to Peru, including aji amarillo, an emulsion of the South American chilli pepper.

The Callao menu blends traditional techniques with vibrant ingredients - every dish on the Chef's Selections tasting menu ($119 per person) offered myriad flavours, but with a real sense of cohesive style.

You are taken out of your comfort zone - but remain very comfortable.

Mainstays include fresh seafood like tiradito, marinated in zesty Peruvian sauces, and Baby octopus with tomato, green olives, saffron potatoes, chickpeas and chili oil.

 

After some warm edamame beans with smoked salt, our starters were a stunning scampi tartare with crispy rice, truffle mayo, avocado puree, pickled jalapeno and Siberian caviar - a very upmarket fish finger (above) - and a delightfully tangy salmon ceviche with aji amarllo, leche de tigre (a zesty Peruvian marinade made with lime juice, fish, and spices), toasted corn and sweet potato puree (below).

Then came Skull Island tiger prawns with aji panca (red pepper) bisque, sea urchin mayo and tabiko (flying fish roe) mayo (below); and Wagyu tri-tip with smoked date teriyaki, aji amarillo mayo and togarishi spices. Both extremely moreish. 

Main course is a chuck tail flap steak with with yuzu koshu butter, shitake jus and house mustard, served with with hasselback potato, quezo fresca, aji amarillo and dried sisho (below).

The final touch is "cheesecake" with toasted corn, finger lime, milk skin and avocado ice cream,

Tradition with a few twists and turns. Delightful flavours; great service, sensible portions. Highly recommended.  

For those wondering, Callao is a Peruvian seaside city and region on the Pacific Ocean in the Lima metropolitan area.

 

Callao is open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday and is at 100 Barangaroo Avenue, Barangaroo, Sydney. callao.com.au.

Images: Anna Kucera, Winsor Dobbin

# The writer was hosted by Callao