Investing in Champagne: the good, the bad and the bubbly

Australians are prodigious drinkers of Champagne - even more so over the Christmas period when a glass or two of bubbles is de rigueur for many.

Wine broker Langtons has just released Australia's largest allocation of luxury Champagne and is promoting it as an investment.

Australia is consistently landing in the top 10 markets for Champagne globally and Langtons believes "the local fine wine market is expected to mimic overseas success with Champagne making it a key collection and investment category for fine wine enthusiasts".

My advice is to always buy wine you want to drink down the track, not merely as as an investment. To my palate Champagne does not improve with age. Others disagree. 

“When it comes to cellaring, Champagne is a category that deserves more of the spotlight here in Australia," says Michael Anderson, head of auctions at Langtons.

"As we’ve seen overseas, Champagne has an impressive ageing potential which sees the wine develop with grace to place itself as a wine category regularly fetching eye-watering prices under the hammer.

"We can expect to see Champagne rise up the ranks in the secondary market here in Australia, with savvy investors already purchasing sought-after bottles to cellar away for future auctioning."

Overseas, avid collectors are displaying an ever-growing interest in rare cuvées, prestige bottlings, and late-disgorged releases and most recently, non-vintage (NV) Champagnes are also joining this list, Langtons says. 

We shall see. 

Yalumba offers rare back vintages for wine lovers

 

Yalumba has just revealed its second museum release celebration for lovers of mature wines.

Following the success of last year’s inaugural museum release, the family-owned winery has announced the second release launching May 1.

The release showcases rare and fine wine wines from the 2010, 2013 and 2015 vintages, each carefully cellared since being bottled.

Building on Yalumba’s 175-year legacy, the selection includes limited parcels of The Caley Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz, The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz, The Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon, and The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz.

This year’s collection also includes The Tri-Centenary Grenache, made from ancestor vines spanning three centuries.

“For generations, we have been setting aside our finest wines from great vintages, allowing them to mature in the ideal cellaring conditions of the Yalumba Museum,” said fifth-generation proprietor Robert Hill-Smith.

“The 2025 museum release reflects our unwavering commitment to crafting wines of exceptional pedigree and ageing potential. Each bottle tells a story of time, place, and dedication.”

Hill-Smith says the collection "offers wine collectors and connoisseurs the opportunity to experience the complexity, depth, and refined elegance that comes with carefully aged wines".

The wines are available in limited quantities through the Yalumba Wine Room and website, select fine wine retailers, and leading restaurants worldwide.

The wines are:
2013 Yalumba The Caley Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz Museum Release $550
2015 Yalumba The Caley Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz Museum Release $520
2015 Yalumba The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz Museum Release $234
2010 Yalumba The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz Museum Release $252
2015 Yalumba The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz Museum Release $100
2010 Yalumba The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz Museum Release $110
2015 Yalumba The Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon Museum Release $85.00
2010 Yalumba The Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon Museum Release $95.00
2015 Yalumba The Tri-Centenary Grenache $100

See Yalumba.com

Penfolds Grange still reigns but Aussies are cellaring more and more chardonnay

Australians love to cellar their favourite wines; and Penfolds Grange remains the most collected wine in the country.

New data centred on over one million bottles cellared by Australia's largest wine storage provider, Wine Ark, has revealed the 50 most collected wines in Australia and that more chardonnays are being cellared than before.

The official listing of Wine Ark’s Most Collected Wines of 2023 shows that Penfolds Grange is Australia’s most collected wine; by state, South Australian wines are the most popular among collectors; and by region the Barossa Valley dominates, followed by Hunter Valley.

Shiraz remains the most collected variety, followed by chardonnay.

You can access the list of the top 50 wines here.

Penfolds Grange has consistently achieved either first or second place since the inaugural Wine Ark list in 2006.

“Due to the number of bottles in the count, it takes a large change to shift wines in the top 10," says John Cuff, head of Wine Ark.

"This year, six wines in the top 10 adjusted positions. This is the second edition in a row that sees Penfolds Grange be the most collected wine in Australia, which is also one of the country’s most expensive wines, again emphasising the importance of this iconic wine to Australian wine collectors.

Cuff said the results showed a shift away from some traditional favourites.

“We are seeing a big shift away from many of the classic old cellar staples such as Penfolds, Wynns, Seppelt and Lindemans, towards cooler-climate producers such as Tolpuddle, Mount Mary, Yarra Yering and Crawford River,” he said.

“What is also interesting is the vast number of bottles of collectable chardonnay being stored by Australian collectors in this edition, spearheaded by perennial favourite Leeuwin Estate as the ninth most collected wine with its Art Series Chardonnay.

"Other producers, such as Giaconda, Tolpuddle, Lakes Folly, Pierro and Mount Mary all saw large positional gains for their chardonnays.”

Standish made the most significant leap in this year’s rankings, with The Standish Shiraz climbing 100 positions to reach 46, marking its debut in the top 50.

Joining this inaugural entry were other notable movers, including Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay, rising an impressive 66 places, Crawford River Riesling moving up by 59 places, and Thomas Wines debuting with the Braemore Hunter Valley Semillon, securing the 40th spot on the most collected list.

“While full-bodied wines from South Australia are always popular, it is clear that there is a distinct shift in Australian wine cellars towards more elegant, cool-climate wines from small, boutique winemakers,” Cuff said.

All the details of Australia’s Most Collected Wines can be found at www.wineark.com.au.

The secrets of enjoying pinot noir at its peak

Pinot noir is sometimes known as the "heartbreak grape".

It can be very tricky to grow, but when done well it produces wines of elegance that are among the most sought after in the world.

From Burgundy to Central Otago, Tasmania to Oregon, cool-climate pinots are much loved by aficionados.

Although many pinot noir wines are made for immediate consumption, others will benefit from a little time in the cellar.

But just how long should you put your favourite pinot noir down before you enjoy them?

With pinot noir, a number of factors influence the ageing process, from viticulture, winemaking techniques and Mother Nature to time in bottle and choice of closure. Proper cellaring plays an important role, too.

Tim and Bec Duffy, the husband and wife viticultural and winemaking team behind the Holm Oak label in Tasmania's Tamar Valley have offered up some tips on how to get the most value and enjoyment out of your wine. 

The advice - given here in their own words, not mine, is timed to coincide with International Pinot Noir Day - that's today, August 18.

Does Pinot Noir Age?

The most famous pinot noir in the world arguably comes from the Burgundy wine region in France. As many wine collectors would espouse, Burgundy has a reputation for pinot noir wines that age well. Often young Burgundy can appear very firm and closed in the first few years of release. New World pinot noirs, on the other hand, such as those from Australia and New Zealand, is often thought of more for immediate consumption. Some don’t have the firmer structure of their Burgundian counterparts.

That’s changing, though, as pinot from all over the world proves its own pedigree depending on the region and age of the vines. Yes, Tasmania’s finest can stand up alongside some of the finest in the world. Ultimately, pinot noir’s ability to age depends largely on where and how it’s grown as well as the impact of the winemaker throughout the winemaking process. With the right tender loving care, Tasmania’s cool-climate pinot noirs really can age beautifully.

Indeed, here in Australia, our reputation for fine pinot noir is on the rise. Beyond Tasmania, Victoria’s Yarra Valley and Mornington Peninsula as well as South Australia’s Adelaide Hills are also regions making names for themselves for making world-class finest pinot – and pinots that can age.

Here are some of the factors that impact ageability:

Viticulture and Winemaking

There’s no denying that pinot noir is one of the more difficult wines to make. Vintage conditions are a key consideration about what pinot to put down and save for later. Thanks to our unique island setting, Tasmania enjoys a moderate maritime climate. Winds from the Southern Ocean keep us cool, but it’s rare for us to experience extreme temperatures. With our temperate springs and summers, warm autumn days and cooler autumn nights, pinot noir grapes are slow to ripen. As a result, they can develop complex, concentrated and intense fruit flavours with good structure and balance. These elements are important during the ageing process, so viticulture that results in high-quality, perfectly ripe fruit is key.

Bottle Ageing

Good-quality pinot noir will develop over time in bottle to become richer and more intense. This is when secondary aroma characters will start to emerge, such as earthy, mushroom and forest floor notes. However, the wine will still maintain its freshness and vibrancy. The palate will be silky but will still have fine tannins and fresh acidity.

Cork Versus Screw Cap in Ageing Pinot Noir

In general, we Aussies love the screw cap and appreciate its advantages over cork. For one thing, no cork means no cork taint, a fault that impacts the smell and taste of the wine. But other wine regions in the world continue to prefer a cork closure, and the ability to age pinot under this closure often depends on the quality of the cork and the track record of the producer.

Don’t worry, though, about putting down your wines under a screw cap (or Stelvin) closure. As far as ageing under screw cap, this type of closure still allows pinot noirs to develop those important secondary characteristics.

How Long Can You Cellar Pinot Noir?

We’ve been making pinot noir here in Tasmania since 2007. It’s allowed us to specialise in this varietal and make four styles. Our Wizard and Hot Shot pinot noirs are the wines we recommend for longer-term ageing. For these two wines, we use whole bunches; some oak to add more structure; and lower yielding, slightly riper fruit. Our Holm Oak Estate Pinot Noir also ages well – for approximately six to eight years – whereas you’ll want to drink the Protégé Pinot Noir within two years of release. Having said that, both of these wines will develop interesting secondary characters, thanks to high-quality fruit, good acidity and bottling under screw cap.

In a perfect world, you want to store your pinot in a humidity- and temperature-controlled environment, away from unnecessary vibration and light. If the pinot gets too warm, you risk ageing it prematurely and impacting its flavours. Likewise, storing it at temperatures that are too cold can hurt the integrity of the wine. It’s most important to keep it at a stable temperature; you don’t want the wines going from hot to cold and back again. Ideally, store these reds at temperatures from 12 to 14°C until you’re ready to enjoy them.

How to ensure your aged wine emerges from the cellar in top condition

Many wine lovers want to put away a bottle of wine or two for a special occasion. Others prefer to drink their wines when they are fully mature. 

The team from Levantine Hill - one of the leading premium producers in the Yarra Valley (https://www.levantinehill.com.au) - has just shared some very useful tips on the best ways to ensure your wine has the best chance of emerging from storage in peak condition.

Of all the factors influencing the quality of stored wine, temperature is perhaps the most important. Unsuitably warm or cold temperatures are a sure way to spoil wine.

In general, the ideal temperature for long-term or short-term wine storage is around 14ºC, but this can vary from wine to wine.

Here are Levantine Hill's top tips. 

Store wines horizontally
For bottles with corks, be sure to store your wine horizontally in a wine rack. Keeping wine on its side helps keep the cork moist, which is key for long-term storage, as a dried out cork can cause seepage and premature aging. While it’s not necessary to keep screw top wine bottles on their sides, horizontal storage is nevertheless an efficient way to store your wines for maximum space and easy access.

Protect Wine from Light
Whether you’re storing it for months, weeks, or days, keep your wine in the dark as much as possible. UV rays from direct sunlight can damage wine’s flavours and aromas.

Store Wine at the Proper Humidity
Humidity extremes in your wine cellar or storage area can also impact your wine’s longevity. At lower humidity levels, your corks can dry out, leaving the wine vulnerable to the effects of oxygen, while higher humidity can cause labels to peel off the bottles, making them difficult to display or sell. In general, your wine cellar humidity should be between 60% and 68%.

Store Wine in a Wine Fridge, Not a Regular Fridge
If you don’t have a wine storage space that’s consistently cool, dark, and moist, a wine refrigerator is a good idea. Unlike a standard refrigerator, which keeps your food very cold and dry, a wine fridge keeps wine between 10-15˚C and at the proper humidity. (A good fridge will also have a cooler setting for Champagne.) Keeping your wine in a separate wine fridge also helps prevent cross-contamination from food odours.

Store Open Bottles of Wine Properly
Stored properly, an opened bottle of wine can last 3-5 days [I'd say 5-7] . The key to extending its shelf life and retain its original qualities is to recork it promptly and tightly, or alternatively use a specialised mechanism such as a Coravin that can preserve wine for a longer period.

New wine releases pay tribute to 165 years of history

Wine drinkers who enjoy high-quality wines that are still relatively affordable will be looking forward to Thursday, when Hardys release the latest vintage wines across their Icon range. 

The new releases comprise the Thomas Hardy Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Eileen Hardy Chardonnay 2019 and Eileen Hardy Shiraz 2018.  

I taste tasted the new releases a couple of weeks ago while on Bruny Island via a Zoom tasting with new Hardys chief winemaker Nigel Sneyd. 

This range prolongs the legacy of industry pioneer Thomas Hardy - hailed as the father of the South Australian wine industry - who in 1853, against a backdrop of global uncertainty, launched his brand. 

Sneyd, a Master of Wine, says the latest Icon wines are blends of South Australia’s finest landscapes and represent the multi-regional blending approach to winemaking that Thomas Hardy first established last century. 

The release is timed so the wines can be enjoyed now, or confidently be cellared.

“As one of Australia’s oldest and most iconic wineries, Hardys is well known for consistently crafting wines of excellence and is committed to keeping Thomas Hardy’s pioneering spirit alive," says Sneyd.

"These are truly remarkable drops that embody the pinnacle of Australian winemaking." 

The Eileen Hardy Shiraz 2018 ($153.99) and Eileen Hardy Chardonnay 2019 ($117.99) will be available at Dan Murphy’s, Vintage Cellars and select independent retailers nationally and the Thomas Hardy Cabernet Sauvignon ($159.99) at Dan's and independent outlets. 

The reds are comfortable, thoroughly modern wines with less high acidity than some of their predecessors; the chardonnay a blend of Yarra Valley and Margaret River fruit that is full of malo richness, stone fruit and classy oak but less steely than previous incarnations featuring Tasmanian fruit. 

The shiraz is the star of the show for immediate vinous gratification  a single-vineyard wine using grapes from 70-year-old vines at Upper Tintara in McLaren Vale - just near the Hardys winery. This is simply delicious; velvety and plush with soft tannins and tremendous length. 

The cabernet is "the best the company can make", a blend of Coonawarra and Margaret River fruit hat is dense with firm tannins. It is a big, masculine wine with black fruits and tapenade notes that will rest happily in many cellars for a good while. 

Summing up: drink the shiraz now, the chardonnay over the next five years and the cabernet when everyone has forgotten who the Kardashians were. 

 

# Hardys wines are sold in over 130 countries. Hardys has received more than 9,000 Australian and international awards in its 165+ years and the brand is now owned by Accolade Wines.