Respected New Zealand wine producer dies

Actor and vigneron Sam Neill has died, his family has confirmed.

“It is with immense sadness that the whanua (family) of Sam Neill share the news of his passing on Monday 13th July, in Sydney, Australia,” they posted on social media.

Northern Ireland-born, New Zealand-based Neill, the star of multiple films including My Brilliant Career and Jurassic Park, was 78.

“The loss was sudden and unexpected but blessed by the fact that Sam remained cancer free. They would like to express their deepest gratitude to the staff at St Vincent’s Private Hospital for their incredible care,” the family statement said.

“More details will be shared later, but for now, on behalf of the family, we ask that you respect their privacy as they navigate this immeasurable loss.”

Neill was diagnosed with blood cancer in March 2022, but recovered.

 

Neill was highly respected in the wine industry, having owned and operated his own pinot noir-focused vineyard Two Paddocks in Central Otago for over three decades.

“We started in 1993 with modest ambitions and first planted five acres of pinot noir at our original little vineyard at Gibbston, Central Otago in the deep south of New Zealand,” Neill said on the winery website, which makes no mention of his career as actor. He was serious about wine. 

“I wanted to produce a good pinot noir that would, at the very least, be enjoyed by my family and friends,” he said.

Two Paddocks now consists of four small certified organic vineyards and produces between 3,000-5,000 cases depending on the vintage.

New wine label for Kooyong/Port Phillip Estate

The Gjergja family has added a new label to its Port Phillip Estate, Kooyong and Quartier collection. 

The family purchased the Bellvale vineyard in Berrys Creek, South Gippsland, in early 2025 and is releasing the 2025 vintage releases.

Approximately 120 kilometres east of the winery on the Mornington Peninsula, this area of South Gippsland has potential for producing some of Australia’s finest pinot noir and chardonnay, the family believes. 

"We are honoured to become the custodians of this remarkable cool-climate site," managing director Marco Gjergja announced after the purchase from John and Athena Ellis. 

The 19-hecatare vineyard is located in the Tarwin River Valley and its north-facing, dry-grown, high-density vineyard lies at 165-195 metres above sea level on deep red loam of volcanic origin.

"Building on the strong foundations laid by John [Ellis] over the last 27 years, we look forward to progressing Bellvale’s legacy, propelling it into the future, and producing compelling pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot gris," the Gjergja family says. 

The Ellis family will retain the 2024 vintage wines with the new 2025 vintage wines released now for an RRP of $32-39. All are made by Tim Perrin

They are distributed by Negociants. The pinot gris is underwhelming. The chardonnay very good. The pinot noir the star. 

See www.portphillipestate.com.au  

Brown Brothers unveils $20 cool-climate pinot noir

 

A $20 pinot noir from a big-name Australian wine producer? Pretty rare. 

Brown Brothers has just expanded its refreshed Classic range with the launch of Brown Brothers Classic Pinot Noir, marking the first time in decades that the 137-year-old family winery has introduced a pinot noir at a major commercial scale. 

With an RRP of $20, the new release targets one of Australia’s fastest-growing red wine segments, reinforcing a broader brand refresh now rolling out nationally, the wine producer says.

Consumer demand for lighter-bodied, fresher and more versatile red wines continues to drive the growth of pinot noir across the Australian wine category, as drinkers increasingly seek reds that feel approachable, modern and suited to a broader range of occasions, Brown Brothers reports.

This shift is helping to:

• Divert drinkers from heavier red styles

• Increase purchase frequency through more flexible drinking occasions

• Reduce shopper risk through familiar varietals and trusted brands

• Drive incremental growth within the red wine category

The 2025 Brown Brothers Classic Pinot Noir is made from grapes grown in cool-climate regions of Victoria, including the King Valley. 

My verdict. It is soft, gently spicy, very easy to enjoy in its youth and definitely worth the price. Affordable and fun. 

Brown Brothers Classic Pinot Noir and the refreshed Classic range are available nationally at participating retailers and online at brownbrothers.com.au.

Tasmania to get a new east coast resort

Tasmania’s spectacular east coast will gain a new luxury accommodation and vineyard experience later this year. 

Wineglass Bay Estate and its on-site vineyard Kitty’s Mistake are scheduled to open on June 10, the owner said in a press release. 

On the fringes of Freycinet National Park, the new property will feature a collection of retreats set along the edge of Moulting Lagoon with guests enjoying access to Kitty’s Mistake, a boutique, cool-climate vineyard within the property planted with young pinot noir vines. 

The new property is aimed at travellers "seeking meaningful experiences and the opportunity to engage with the surrounding landscape and local producers".

“The intention was to create a stay that sits quietly within its environment, offering the comfort and considered detail of a five-star hotel, with the privacy and space more often associated with a private stay,” said Kim Alfeldi, the owner of Wineglass Bay Estate. 

Wineglass Bay Estate has been developed with a deliberate focus on quality over scale, the release says. 

Guests will be encouraged to engage with the surrounding landscape, local producers and seasonal rhythms of the region. 

Accommodation retreats will all face front and centre overlooking the water, each designed to offer uninterrupted water views. 

Each retreat will have a king bed, en-suite bathroom, and spacious deck. 

Wineglass Bay Estate is about 2 hours from either Launceston or Hobart. 

See https://wineglassbayestate.com.au/ and stay tuned for more info. 

Bless the baby cheeses - and wines

 

Calling all lovers of cheeses and wines. 

Mould x Pinot Palooza returns this year with its largest food and wine tour yet, visiting Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne, Perth and Adelaide. Hobart again misses out. 

The festival boasts its brings "friends, fromages and fermentation" under one roof for one of Australia’s biggest food and wine celebrations.

Mould (established in 2017) will showcase 50+ varieties of Australian artisan cheeses, drawing producers from around the country. 

Pinot Palooza, which began in 2012, showcases 50+ expressions of pinot noir from Australia, New Zealand and beyond. 

Sydney returns after an 18-month hiatus dropping in at the Hordern Pavilion, while the Melbourne event moves to the Melbourne Convention & Exhibition Centre (MCEC). 

Brisbane returns to the John Reid Pavilion at the RNA Showgrounds, and Perth to the Silver Jubilee Pavilion at Claremont Showgrounds.

Building on the popularity of last year’s tour, the 2026 program will see four sessions run over three days, with Sundays now part of the line-up in every location.



Jess Audas, head of organisers Revel, said: “Cheese and pinot naturally belong together, and this format gives people the freedom to explore both at their own pace, talk directly with producers, and enjoy the experience without it feeling over-programmed or precious. 

"It’s about great produce, great people and having a genuinely good time.”

On sale now via mouldxpalooza.com, tickets are $59 + booking fee and include festival entry, unlimited cheese and pinot tastings, a complimentary cooler bag for cheese purchases, a stemless wine glass for tastings and a custom wine tote. 

Event Dates: 

BRISBANE: May 22-24, John Reid Pavilion, RNA Showgrounds

SYDNEY: June 12-14, The Hordern Pavilion, Moore Park

MELBOURNE: July 3-5, Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre 

PERTH: August 7-9, Silver Jubilee Pavilion, Claremont Showgrounds

ADELAIDE: August28-30, The Queens Theatre 

Chef cooks up a new premium wine range

Six years ago Orange winemaker Duncan Cook decided to push his boundaries and make some new barrel-fermented reserve wines.

A couple of weeks ago the Cooks Lot Iconique Barrique wines were released: featuring a 2019 Cooks Lot ‘Iconique Barrique’ Rolled Chardonnay and 2019 Cooks Lot ‘Iconique Barrique’ R16R17 Pinot Noir.

The pair retails for $60 each and are a statement of confidence from a producer that is one of Orange’s best-kept secrets,

Cooks Lot, which started in 2002, is operated by former chef Cook on the slopes of Mount Canobolas.

After many years working as a chef at La Grillade in Crows Nest, Sydney, Cook enrolled at Charles Sturt University to study winemaking.

Driving weekly from Sydney to Wagga Wagga for lectures, he eventually decided to fully commit to a career in wine. Initially working in Mudgee, where he has family.

He was then drawn to cooler-climate varieties and began sourcing fruit from Orange in 2011.

In 2016, Duncan set out to create a new flagship wine, with pinot noir the natural choice. “It’s the one percenters that make the difference with these wines,” he said.

“We experimented with barrel fermenting red wines and saw the great depth and complexity it created.

”“You have to be half crazy to do it. It’s an enormous amount of work, and expensive, but the results speak for themselves. It’s gentler on the fruit than plunging, which can over-extract tannins. The result is softer tannins, beautiful secondary and charcuterie characters, and greater colour stability in the wine.”

The pinot noir is a wine that benefits from being open for a couple of hours before drinking, while the chardonnay is impressively complex and textural.

Cook believes Orange’s diversity is key to wine quality.

“Orange isn’t like any other wine region in Australia," he says. "There are multiple sub-regions within it; grapes grown at 600 metres are completely different to those at 1000 metres.”

The fruit for both wines is sourced small grower vineyard parcels sourced across this volcanic region.

“There are some fantastic growers in Orange,” Cook says

“Working with several of them gives me great flexibility in the winery. Combining higher-elevation fruit with grapes from lower sites adds complexity and balance to the finished wine.”

The 2019 Cooks Lot ‘Iconique Barrique’ R16R17 Pinot Noir was hand-picked and cold-soaked for three days before being micro-fermented in 900L rotating French barriques with a portion of whole bunches and wild yeast. Te barrels were rotated nine times per day, followed by five days of post-ferment maceration. The wine was matured in 900-litre French oak barriques for 16 months.

The 2019 Cooks Lot ‘Iconique Barrique’ Chardonnay Rolled was whole-bunch pressed, with the free-run juice barrel-fermented on partial solids with wild yeast to build texture and complexity. The wine was matured in new French oak puncheons for 24 months, with extended lees contact enhanced through modern barrel rolling.

See cookslot.com.au

Discover a new vineyard escape on the Great Ocean Road

 

Want to be among the first to check out chic new vineyard accommodation along the Great Ocean Road?

Basalt Retreat has just opened bookings for its new vineyard villas set among the vines of its 24-year-old near Port Fairy, where it grows pinot noir, tempranillo and riesling.

If you are looking for a gourmet-accented adults-only escape along the Great Ocean Road, these two villas - Pinot Noir and Tempranillo - might fit the bill.

Basalt's tasting room and eatery have proven popular with visitors, who can now, for the first time, stay for a few nights. 

Each villa stay includes a Queen bed with cloud-soft premium bedding; a selection of locally sourced snacks, wines and small-batch spirits; indoor fireplace for cooler evenings; a locally sourced breakfast hamper; kettle, toaster and coffee machine; a barbecue overlooking the vines and an in-room supper menu (pre-order required). 

Guests get a complimentary wine tasting at the cellar door and priority dining reservations. 

Villas cost from $495 per night with a two-night minimum stay, although one-night stays are available Sunday through Thursday.

"After years of dreaming, planning and careful craftsmanship, our boutique vineyard villas are now open for bookings," says vigneron/patron Shane Clancey. 

"Nestled within the vines of our 24-year-old vineyard, these architect-designed villas offer a rare experience on the Great Ocean Road. This is a retreat created for stillness, connection and quiet indulgence." 

It has been a while since I visited but Basalt is a delightful destination in a lovely location. 

For details see https://www.basaltwines.com.au/stay/

We’re thrilled to share something truly special. After years of dreaming, planning and careful craftsmanship, our boutique vineyard villas — Basalt Retreat — are now open for bookings. Nestled within the vines of our 24-year-old vineyard, these architect-designed villas offer a rare experience on the Great Ocean Road: a luxury stay immersed in nature, shaped by vineyard life, and made for slow, grounding moments. Wake to soft coastal light drifting through the vines. Settle in for long, Mediterranean-inspired lunches at the cellar door. Savour a glass of Pinot Noir on your private deck as the sun melts over the farm. This is a retreat created for stillness, connection and quiet indulgence.

A stunning new canvas for artisan Kiwi wine producer

Artisan Marlborough wine producer Blank Canvas has upped the ante by announcing the purchase of a spectacular looking nine-hectare vineyard property in the Omaka Valley, in the Southern Valleys sub region.

The vineyard will become the sustainability focused producer's long-awaited home site and will complement fruit sourced from nine existing partner vineyards, whose grapes anchor the Blank Canvas single-vineyard philosophy.

Blank Canvas was founded in 2012 by award-winning international winemaking consultant Matt Thomson and Master of Wine Sophie Parker-Thomson with the vision of crafting world-class wines.

“This is a defining moment in our evolution as we approach vintage number fourteen," says Sophie. "We have dreamt of the perfect home for Blank Canvas from day one and have been actively searching for it over several years. We are delighted that we have finally found it.”

The amphitheatre-shaped hillside vineyard that Blank Canvas will call home was established in 2003 and planted at very high density.

The property offers 360° views across the Wairau Valley.

The company plans substantial phased investment and careful development to realise the site’s full potential.

Winemaker Matt Thomson, who has completed an even split of 66 harvests over 33 years in Europe and New Zealand, says: “Site drives style. In the Old World, the best sites typically grow one or at most two varieties.

"In the New World we often try to force many varieties into one terroir, frequently with mediocre results. This site gives us two complementary terroirs - a cooler east face and a warmer west face - that will allow us to match variety and style to place, which is a founding ethos of Blank Canvas.”

While a small parcel of established pinot noir on the cooler eastern face will remain, Matt and Sophie plan to convert the remainder of the block, currently planted to sauvignon blanc, to varieties better suited to the microclimates created by the differing aspects.

“In New Zealand’s climate and with our high costs of production, it’s important we grow only varieties that are capable of true greatness,” says Matt.

“There is no doubt that nebbiolo, syrah and pinot noir produce some of the world’s greatest wines. These red varieties form a trifecta of great aromatic red wines of the world, and together with our belief in Marlborough chardonnay, we think we can achieve something very special from this extraordinary property.”

Blank Canvas will continue to release single-vineyard wines from its grower partners, while the new vineyard will reinforce the small-batch fine wine program.

The first vintage from the new Blank Canvas vineyard site will be harvested in 2026.

See https://blankcanvaswines.com/ 

Champagne Bollinger uncorks significant new releases

Bollinger, a brand much loved by Champagne aficionados around the world, has just launched PNTX20, a sparkling wine expression that celebrates the house's mastery of pinot noir, which comprises the bulk of its estate fruit.

Champagne Bollinger's PN TX20 is a 100% pinot noir wine predominantly from the Tauxières terroir and uses base material from the 2020 vintage complemented by various reserve wines from other years and crus.

Founded in 1829, Champagne Bollinger says: "This new PN TX20 edition allows the cuvée to reinvent itself through the unique organoleptic profile of this emblematic grape variety." So there. 

Tauxières, the source of the majority of the grapes, is  in the Montagne de Reims region, midway between Reims and Epernay, where pinot noir excels. 

The Bollinger tasting notes say it is:  A luminous, expressive Champagne with layers of red berries, ripe stone fruit, and Bollinger’s signature toasted brioche and hazelnut complexity."

I’ve just tested the release. It is a big, textural and structured Champagne. A statement release that is one for lovers of savoury styles. It oozes class. It is toasty, spicy, poised and food friendly. Pair with canapes, or with a cheese platter. 

Champagne Bollinger has also released a Special Cuvée 007 Limited Edition to celebrate over 45 years as the Official Champagne of James Bond.



The partnership between Bollinger and Bond began on screen in 1979 with Moonraker, though the Champagne was first referenced in Ian Fleming’s Diamonds Are Forever in 1956. 

Since then, the collaboration has become one of cinema’s most enduring brand alliances.

The new limited-edition release (above) comes in a black collector’s box inspired by the iconic Bond opening sequence. The front features a gold gun barrel motif with Bond’s silhouette at the centre, set against a black-and-gold colourway with metallic embossing. The bottle itself carries the 007 branding on the neck collar.

“Champagne Bollinger and James Bond share a commitment to elegance, craftsmanship, and timeless sophistication,” said Victoria Carfantan, director of global partnerships at Champagne Bollinger. 

“This release is both a celebration of our shared history and an invitation for Bond fans and Champagne lovers alike to savour the taste of The Champagne of James Bond.”

Remembering a Mornington Peninsula pioneer

The Mornington Peninsula lost one of its wine industry pioneers with the death earlier this week of Brian Stonier AO. 

Stonier passed away peacefully at the age of 93, surrounded by his wife Noel, and their children Simon, Jenny and Sally.

He had a stellar career in publishing and the arts and was also a key player in the emergence of the Mornington Peninsula as a cool-climate wine region. 

Stonier produced, and continues to do so, outstanding chardonnays and pinot noirs. 

He was, at various times, managing director of Penguin Publishing, founder of Sun Books, chairman of Macmillan Publishing, president of the Victorian College of the Arts, board member of the National Gallery of Victoria, The Arts Centre Trust, the Australia Council, The National Library and founder of Stonier Winery in 1978.

Despite selling Stonier in the early 2000s, he remained a member of the board and an active contributor to the business and the region. 

"When we purchased the winery in 2022, I rang Brian to let him know," recalls co-owner Aaron Drummond. 

"He was so pleased the winery was back in local family ownership. He would call regularly to check in on our progress and was delighted to see the new wines and direction."

Andrew Caillard MW commented: “Brian made a big contribution to the world of fine wine”. 

Loire reds offer a different taste of France

Australians drink a lot of Champagne. Wines from Burgundy and Bordeaux are popular with aficionados, while the Rhone also has its fans and wines from the Languedoc sell well through major chains.

The Loire Valley, however, is often overlooked. 

The Loire wine region stretches across western France from the Muscadet vineyards near the city of Nantes on the Atlantic coast to the Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé vines that lay just south-east of the city of Orleans in central France.

Among the leading wine producing regions are Anjou, Saumur, Bourgueil, Chinin and Vouvray with grape varieties ranging from whites made from chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc and melon de Bourgogne to reds crafted from cabernet franc, pinot noir and gamay.

These are generally stylish, lighter-bodied and layered wines that are very food friendly.

With Crémant-style production throughout the Loire, it is the second-largest sparkling wine producer in France.

The Loire has a long history of winemaking dating all the way back to the 1st century.

The region is currently promoting its wares in Australia, with a focus on reds showcasing cabernet franc, pinot noir, and gamay).

The Val de Loire PGI spans 14 departments with 30 grape varieties with 50% of all cabernet franc in France grown in the Loire.

Pinot noir and gamay are often enjoyed lightly chilled. They are found largely in Touraine and Saumur.

There is a focus on sustainability in the region with 85% of vineyard areas either organic or certified under environmental programs.

Among the red Loire offerings available in Australia are: 

• ‘Les Rouillères’, Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil, Cabernet Franc, Frédéric

Mabileau $37.10

• ‘Confidences’, Chinon, Cabernet Franc, Famille Bougrier $19.99

• ‘Les Terres Rouges’, Saumur-Champigny, 2021, Arnaud Lambert $44.99

• ‘La Chapelle’, Anjou, Cabernet Franc, Château de Fesles $52

• 'Cote 50', Bourgueil, Cabernet Franc, Yannick Amirault $39.99

• Touraine, Gamay, Thierry Delaunay $21.99  

For more details see https://www.vinsdeloire.fr/en

After 50+ years in the same family, Passing Clouds hits the market

Passing Clouds Vineyard, a family-owned wine producer with a 50+ year history, is up for sale by the Leith family.

The winery and cellar door, located at Musk, just outside Daylesford in Victoria, is being marketed by Nick Butler of LJ Hooker Specialty Projects.

Passing Clouds is described as "one of the jewels of the Macedon Ranges" .

The property has mature chardonnay and pinot noir vines with room for expansion, along with the cellar door with casual tasting and picnic areas, overlooking the winery.

Set away from the working business, the property also boasts an almost new architecturally designed five-bedroom home and a separate three-bedroom cottage.

Selling agent and vineyard specialist Butler has enjoyed a relationship with the Leith family for over 20 years.

“The demand for quality pinot noir and chardonnay vineyards remains strong with recent sales recognising that consumers are gravitating more and more to these varieties," Butler says.

"The Macedon Ranges is home to some of Australia’s finest wines and Passing Clouds Vineyard sits up at the upper echelon.

"Combining an established and well recognised vineyard and brand with the low hanging fruit of upside through a shortage of accommodation in the area and this represents an incredible opportunity to own something beautiful and highly profitable.”

Passing Clouds began in Bendigo before being established in the Macedon Ranges almost three decades ago.

Founder Graeme Leith handed over the reins to the next generation 15 years ago: his son Cameron and daughter-in-law Marion.

“Passing Clouds celebrated 50 years last year, and with that milestone came time to pause and reflect for us and our young family," said Cameron and Marion.

"We decided that it is time for us to move on to new pursuits. Whilst we will miss this beautiful property we are excited about our family's next chapter”

Included in the sale is an inventory of wines.

“The 2025 season was the best since the vineyard was planted in 1998," says Cameron Leith.

"We had the highest yields on record and achieved optimum ripeness and quality.”

Passing Clouds is for sale via an Expressions of Interest Process closing 2pm on Friday, June 20. Call 0458 672 643 |or email nick.butler@ljhavalon.com.au

Huldufólk thriving in the deep south of Tasmania

Huldufólk, meaning "hidden people" or "hidden folk," are supernatural beings in Icelandic and Faroese folklore.

They are believed to be relatives of elves or fairies, similar to humans in appearance and behaviour, but living in a parallel world within nature.

They are often associated with the natural world, particularly rocks and hills, and are seen as both protectors and potential tricksters. They are said to live in nature, engaging in activities like farming, fishing, and raising families.

Down in the Huon Valley in the deep south of Tasmania, winemakers Paul and Gilli Lipscombe from Sailor Seeks Horse pay tribute to Huldufólk with their small-batch chardonnay and pinot noir named after the creatures.

And there is a real link: Paul's father, who runs seafood shops in the UK, has had many business dealings with Iceland, where he sources cod and haddock, and Paul frequently visited Iceland as as a child.

Last night we re-tasted the 2023 Huldufólk Pinot Noir ($120), estate grown, and made, and it was looking superb.

Their notes say "textural, plush, so much calmness, effortless", and that is spot on. 

There is a lot going on on the palate, but the wine's complexity is matched by its composure and serenity."

A glass or two might well take your stress away.

The couple worked in the Languedoc and Margaret River - and made wine for Home Hill - deciding the cool Huon might be the best place in Australia to make top-notch chardonnay and pinot.

They took over an overgrown old vineyard at Cradoc, remediated it by hand, planted some more vines and paid attention to clonal selection. .

"Neither too dry nor too wet, too warm nor too cold and with two of the most awarded vineyards in Tasmania (Elsewhere and Home Hill), the industry had barely scratched the surface of the myriad of microclimates within the valley," they say on their website.

" Within a few weeks of arriving, we stumbled upon a dilapidated 6.5ha vineyard, planted in 2005 and then walked away from. Opportunity beckoned. North-east-facing slope, sheltered from the prevailing cold south-westerly and planted to six different clones of Pinot; perfect.

"Half the vines were dead, blackberry above our heads and about one hundred trees littered the vineyard; not-so-perfect.

"But it wouldn’t be satisfying if it wasn’t challenging. That was one of the reasons we decided to change our lives. If you love what you do and have a plan, then it doesn’t matter what the challenges are, they are surmountable and all-the-more rewarding."

The Sailor Seeks Horse wines frequently sell out within months of release - and are much sought after by key restaurants and wine bars on the mainland.

Better move quickly before the Huldufólk drink the lot.

See https://www.sailorseekshorse.com.au/

Australia's popular wine and cheese party is back

One of Australia's most successful gourmet events, Mould x Pinot Palooza, is returning in 2025. 

The showcase of outstanding cheeses and stellar pinot noirs from across Australia and New Zealand, will return its food and wine tour to Brisbane, Melbourne and Perth in 2025. 

Bad news, however, for Sydney, Adelaide and Hobart, who miss out this time around. 

These will be the first Mould x Pinot Palooza events since the departure of event founder and guru Dan Sims, so the pressure will be on the Revel Global team to match the excellence of previous years. 

The dates will be May 23-25 at the John Reid Pavilion at the Showgrounds in Brisbane, July 4-5 in Melbourne at the Royal Exhibition Building in Carlton and August 9-10 at the Silver Jubilee Pavilion at the Claremont Showgrounds  in Perth.

Pre-sales open today for previous party goers with public tickets available from tomorrow. 

Organisers boast: "From the creamiest brie to the stinkiest blue, the prettiest Yarra Pinot and robust Central Otago - we’ve got you covered."

Tickets are $59 plus booking fee and include unlimited tastings at featured stalls, plus a complimentary cooler bag, wine glass and tote.

See https://pinotpalooza.com.au/

Five pinots from Chard Farm offer something for everyone

Wines from Central Otago in New Zealand are always a good bet for lovers of muscular but well-balanced pinot noirs.

One of the best pinot specialist producers in Central Otago is Chard Farm at Gibbston, whose cellar door boasts one of the scariest approach roads in the wine business.

Chard Farm is just just 20km from tourism magnet Queenstown, and sources fruit from several different regions to produce a range of pinots that share commonality as well as site differences.

Established in 1987, they are one of the pioneers of wine in Central Otago and have six estate-owned vineyards in the Cromwell and Gibbston regions.

They do not enter competitions; and make wines designed to be paired with food. 

These are not cheap wines, but they are considered, composed and charismatic; particularly if you enjoy pinots on the more serious side of the spectrum.

The 2022 vintage single vineyard pinot noirs include The Tiger, The Viper, Mason and newcomer the Hawkesburn vineyard (all $98 RRP), along with the Mata-Au 2022 ($58), an aromatic and silky blend of fruit from the best blocks of three estate vineyards. 

The Mason was just a little too macho for my taste, although it will undoubtedly have its admirers, but I thoroughly enjoyed the other three individual vineyard offerings, particularly newcomer the Hawkesburn Vineyard, which replaces the Eliza.

This is from a 20+-year-old vineyard above the Bannockburn inlet and I thought this shone as the choice for immediate enjoyment; plush and very stylish.

John Wallace, who has has held the position of chief winemaker at Chard Farm since 1997, says he is "really happy" with the fruit grown at Hawkesburn.

Wallace is a bit of a drinks all-rounder, also making an IPA - Indian Pale Ale - as well as locally renowned gin.

His wines are well worth a splurge. 

 

Small Wonder gets a lot bigger

Overstory, owners of Tamar Valley wine brand Small Wonder, has announced the acquisition of a 24-hectare vineyard in the Coal River Valley. 

The strategic acquisition just east of Richmond and 20 minutes from Hobart marks a significant milestone in the company’s growth and expands its footprint into another of Tasmania’s most celebrated cool-climate wine regions.

Small Wonder, known for its premium organic wines and formerly known as Goaty Hill, recently opened a new state-of-the-art winery in January 2024. 

The acquisition of the Marengo Road vineyard in the Coal River Valley will enable Overstory to double its production volume in Tasmania over the next three years, allowing for portfolio expansion and growth in both domestic and international markets.

Fruit from the vineyard has previously been used by premium producers including Bubb and Pooley.

"We are thrilled to broaden our presence in Tasmania and take this next step in enhancing the quality and variety of our wine offerings,” said Paul McArdle, CEO at Overstory.

"Consistent with our approach at our Tamar Valley location, we are committed to achieving organic certification for the Coal River Valley vineyard over the next three years, reinforcing our commitment to sustainable, high-quality winemaking practices."

The recently acquired vineyard, planted between 2017 and 2019, features a diverse mix ofbcool-climate varietals, with predominantly pinot noir and chardonnay along with small amounts of shiraz, riesling, pinot gris and viognier.  

Overstory says the purchase cements “the company’s position as one of Tasmania’s leading producers of cool-climate wines”. 

I co-incidentally tried two excellent Small Wonder pinots this week. The future looks bright. 

Air New Zealand develops its own wine brand

Air New Zealand will soon be flying direct from Auckland to New York - and is also introducing its own wines for flyers to enjoy en route. 

Air New Zealand has announced plans to create its own wine brand to be enjoyed by customers both in the air and on the ground. 

Named Thirteen Forty Five, the label will pay tribute to the airline's inaugural flight from Auckland to Sydney in 1940, which spanned 1345 miles. 

The flight was operated by Air New Zealand's predecessor, TEAL (Tasman Empire Airways Limited), and that flight marked the beginning of a new era of air travel that would connect New Zealand to the world.

Crafted in collaboration with renowned New Zealand wine producer Villa Maria, part of Indevin Group, Thirteen Forty Five will launch with a signature sauvignon blanc and a pinot noir, available exclusively to Air New Zealand customers.

Air New Zealand has worked with winemakers on the ground in Marlborough to create bespoke blends that capture the essence of New Zealand's most famous wine regions.

Air New Zealand general manager for customer experience, Kylie McGillivray-Brown, says each wine has been crafted with special attention to how flavours are experienced at altitude.

"This wasn't about simply putting our label on a bottle - we've collaborated with Indevin's world-class winemakers to craft these unique blends, creating an exclusive experience for our customers, whether they're savouring it at 30,000 feet alongside our thoughtfully-curated menu, or in our lounges," she said.

"Each pour will be a toast to the journeys that have connected New Zealanders with each other and New Zealand to the world."

Thirteen Forty Five will be available from March 2025 in premium economy, Air New Zealand lounges, and on the Airpoints Store. 

For a limited time, customers will also be able to enjoy it during Koru Hour on select domestic flights.

"From Waiheke Island to Central Otago, it's a privilege to showcase the very best of New Zealand winemaking and share it with the world," says McGillivray-Brown.

Tasmanian wine gamble has paid big dividends

Cousins Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith (above) are not averse to taking a risk or two. 

When they launched their first wine brand 35 years ago they opted to use sauvignon blanc as the headline act. 

At that time sauvignon blanc was virtually unknown in the southern hemisphere. 

The success of the Shaw + Smith brand has since paved the way for hundreds of Australian producers who followed in their footsteps and planted sauvignon blanc. 

Thirteen years ago, considering creating a brand in Tasmania, they chose the Tolpuddle Vineyard in the Coal River Valley, originally planted by some of the savviest operators in the wine business. 

The vineyard is on a gently sloping north-east site with soils that are light silica over sandstone: ideal for chardonnay and pinot noir.  

The only problem was that Tolpuddle had initially been planted with chardonnay and pinot noir clones best suited to sparkling wine production, not the premium table wines for which Tolpuddle has become well known.

"The 2023 vintage got us to a point where we are full planted - and everything in the ground is as we want it ," says Tolpuddle national sales manager Tom Donegan, who hosted a 2023 vintage release tasting in Hobart last week, along with Pip Anderson, who will run the Tolpuddle tasting room when it opens adjacent to the vineyard in November.

The 2023 vintage was the coldest on record, but winemaker Adam Wadewitz and his team have worked some magic. 

Both new releases reflect the work viticulturist Carlos Souris has been putting into the vineyard, including re-plants, grafts and extensions, while organic practices have been evolving over a decade or more.  

The 2023 Chardonnay has marvellous tension and bright acidity, along with impressive cool-climate balance, while the 2023 Pinot Noir walks a tightrope of fruit and savoury characters and finishes with delicacy and elegance. .

Both share intense, complex fruit flavours, vibrancy and minerality.  

Find out more at https://www.tolpuddlevineyard.com/ but be warned that stocks are getting low after only a couple of weeks of release. 

Understandably so. If you are very lucky you might still find some in retail land. 

Bastard Hill sees Giant Steps take huge strides

It is a cold, wet, windy and exposed vineyard with absurdly steep slopes. 

But even though it is much hated by vineyard workers - hence the name - Bastard Hill is one of  the best sites in Australia for growing quality cool-climate chardonnay and pinot noir. 

Located in the Upper Yarra Valley, near Gladysdale, the 13-hectate Bastard Hill, which sits at 280 metres above sea level, has had several owners over the years but is now under the custodianship of Mel Chester and her Giant Steps winemaking team. 

It was acquired in 2022 after being planted by leading viticulturist Ray Guerin in 1985 - initially to provide fruit for sparkling wine production.  

Chester says the vineyard still needs "some care and attention" to reach its peak, but its immense potential is underlined by the inaugural releases as part of Giant Steps' single vineyard program. Both are stunning wines.

I tasted all the 2023 Yarra Valley wines with Chester a week or so ago, and was blown away by the way the new releases reflect the different terroirs of the Bastard Hill, Tarraford, Sexton, Primavera and Applejack vineyards. 

These are not cheap wines: the chardonnays sell for around $90 a bottle and the pinots for around $100, but such is their quality they are close to being sold out. 

No doubt helped by Giant Steps being named Winery of the Year in the new James Halliday Wine Companion annual, and the Applejack Pinot Noir being anointed as pinot noir of the year. 

All the wines in the range are astutely crafted and sublimely nuanced.

"The 2023 vintage was one of the coldest and latest on record, helping the vineyards produce wines of wonderful purity and tension," Chester (above) says. 

"I think you will notice the crystalline texture and pure voices of the chardonnays, while the pinots have wonderful fresh perfume."

I am far from the only fan of these wines, they are racking up positive reviews and show awards at a rapid rate. 

Here's the line-up: 

2023 Tarraford Chardonnay: Intense with pink grapefruit notes; still very taut and tight. 

2023 Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay: Stunning. A little softer but still blessed with very vibrant acidity. Muscularity and subtlety in the same package. 

2023 Applejack Vineyard Chardonnay: Made in tiny quantities with both power and restraint. Very pure as it saw zero malo. 

2023 Bastard Hill Chardonnay: What a debut! Lean, commpelling, classic cool-climate flavours for lovers of Chablis.      

2023 Bastard Hill Pinot Noir: A tour de force. A wine with a delightful flow on the palate. Impressive fragrance and texture. Cellar worthy. 

2023 Primavera Vineyard Pinot Noir: Great length on this one with a lively line of minerality at its core. 

2023 Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir: Serious power and intensity here, but also beauty and poise. Great fruit and spice. 

2023 Sexton Vineyard Pinot Noir: Fruit forward; the biggest of the pinots with meaty elements. Glossy and grounded. 

A legendary line-up. See www.giantstepswine.com.au before they are all sold out.       

Mumm releases a still table wine

Here’s a weird one.

Mumm is one of the highest-profile Champagne Houses and has recently begun making sparkling wines in prime regions around the world.

But now Mumm is releasing a still wine - a Central Otago pinot noir, the first table wine crafted for the Mumm Terroirs collection.

The Mumm Central Otago Pinot Noir 2021 is the second release in the Mumm Terroirs collection from the New Zealand South Island wine region, following the inaugural release of its sparkling Mumm Central Otago Blanc de Noirs NV in 2023.

Made from 100-percent hand-harvested pinot grapes from the Lowburn sub-region, it is matured for 16 months in French oak.

Mumm’s New Zealand chief winemaker Jamie Marfell said: “We’ve long worked alongside grape growers in the sub-regions to recognise the best vineyard and sites and the 2021 vintage provided us with excellent conditions and fruit to produce this wine.

“Creating a fine wine rather than a sparkling wine, speaks to the pioneering and innovative nature of this collection which is dedicated to showcasing pinot noir. at its pinnacle of quality in the bottle.”

The new release will join the Mumm Terroirs collection, which celebrates wine regions including Northern Tasmania, Marlborough, Central Otago and Napa in California.

Mumm Central Otago Pinot Noir 2021 is available now for an RRP of $80 in selected Australian venues, and online at vntnr.co.

I’ll let you know when I’ve tried it.