Airport hotel eatery delivers fun Italian flavours

 

I am a big believer that restaurant food should be fun. 

The Melbourne Airport precinct has welcomed its newest dining establishment with the recent launch of Boccata Restaurant & Bar, which means 'a mouthful” and celebrates Melbourne's migrant heritage and rich Italian food culture.

We ate there last week and really enjoyed the fun vibe of dishes like deep-fried lasagne with paprika mayo,  a mortadella pizza, a tomato-driven rigatoni and fior di latte soft serve with olive oil and Murray salt. 

 
The dessert was unconventional, sure, but absolutely delicious.

There is an experienced team behind Boccata - and some friendly wait staff as well.

Consultant chef Rosy Scatigna from Hotel Morris in Sydney has crafted the menu. Executive chef Christian Corpuz heads the kitchen team with and F&B director Dylan Wisnesky manning the floor.

Puglian-raised Scatigna’s Italian roots are reflected in the modern trattoria-style menu which features plenty of Italian flavours like garlic, chilli, fresh herbs, citrus and high-quality olive oil.

“The inspiration for the Boccata menu comes from my own family's Italian roots and the stories of Melbourne's Italian immigrant community,” Scatigna says.

“When we set out to create this menu, we wanted to honour those cherished memories while celebrating the incredible produce from Victoria's local farmers.

“Each dish is a tribute to the past and a nod to the vibrant food culture that surrounds us, blending time-honoured Italian recipes with the best ingredients this region has to offer.”

Corpuz has worked at some of Victoria's best restaurants including Estelle Bistro, Lakehouse Daylesford and Miss Mi.

Complementing the food and wine, the interiors at Boccata are designed to embrace a classic Italian design with a modern twist.

There is a decent and affordable selection of wines by the glass, but nothing thrilling.

Boccata Restaurant & Bar is within the airport precinct at the brand-new Novotel & ibis Styles Melbourne Airport. Open for dinner Monday to Sunday from 5-10pm.

See https://www.novotelmelbourneairport.com.au

# The writer was hosted by Accor Hotels 

After Marta meet Martina

It is always a good sign when a restaurant is so successful that it opens a sibling.

Rose Bay newcomer Martina is the offspring of Marta, restaurateur Flavio Carnevale’s chefs’ hatted osteria in Rushcutters Bay.

Martina offers a celebration of Roman cuisine with a picturesque backdrop of Sydney Harbour.

The site is a a bustling Italian bakery in the morning that transforms into a pizzeria and Italian restaurant from noon and into the evening.

The signature dish is the maritozzi - a Roman brioche bun filled with whipped cream.

Carnevale draws on his own Italian heritage for much of the food inspiration, while Martina's drink menu offers classic Italian cocktails and spritzes, as well as non-alcoholic beverages. 

The chef curated the win list himself with Italian wines alongside a selection of French labels.

“My vision for Martina is a place where you can pop in at any given time of the day or night and always find food, coffee and wine. Is that to go place without thinking too much about it, every day all day along,” Carnevale says.

"At Martina, guests are invited to indulge in their senses, share the love, and discover the heartful flavours of Italian life."

Martina is at 51-55 O'Sullivan Rd, Rose Bay, and is open seven days a week, from morning until night.

For details see https://www.martinarosebay.com.au/  

Celebrating 70 years of an importer who helped give Australia an Italian accent

At a time when Italian restaurants owned by culinary "superstars" open and close over a period of just a couple of years, it is nice to pay tribute to a Melbourne institution that is this year celebrating 70 years run by the same family. 

Enoteca Sileno is a Melbourne business that has helped shape the food and wine culture of Australia, with founder Gino Di Santo a pioneer of introducing authentic, regional flavours of Italy to Australians. 

The business is still run by the third generation of the family in 2023. 

At the Enoteca Sileno store in Carlton, the Portelli family is extending its retail hours and hosting a swag of events every Saturday in the lead-up to Christmas. 

Visitors can see a wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano being cut in the traditional way, or sample some panettone in the lead-up to Christmas. 

The Enoteca Sileno story began in the town of Termoli in the region of Molise, Italy. where Luigi ‘Gino’ Di Santo was a young man who wanted to prove he could make it on his own post World War II. 

After arriving in Australia at Bonegilla Migrant Reception Center outside Wodonga in north-east Victoria, he saw a gap in the market for imported Italian food and beverage products in Melbourne.

He returned to Italy to secure the rights for La Cimbali espresso machines, and in 1954 he installed the first machine in Cafè Lexington on Exhibition Street. 

Enoteca Sileno’s role as an importer of Italian foods began with Plasmon, Italy’s most famous brand of baby food, which was in much demand by the young migrant Italian mothers.

In the following years Gino would introduce Australian cafes and restaurants to Italian mineral water, gelati-making machines, La Minerva cheese graters and coffee grinders for delicatessens and cafés, along with preserved vegetables such as artichokes and sun-dried tomatoes, balsamic vinegars and Italian liqueurs such as Amaro Ramazzotti and Amaretto di Saronno.

But Gino also play an important role as an ambassador for Australian products in Italy. He exhibited at Italian international food fairs, giving Italians their first taste of Carlton Draught and Swan Lager beers, as well as Australian tinned fruit. 

He was also responsible for what was possibly the earliest exhibit of Indigenous Australian artefacts in Italy, with a display that included bark paintings, wood carvings, and tools.

In 1982, Gino opened the Enoteca Sileno retail store in Carlton, selling direct to the public rather than to restaurants and cafès. 

After relocating to Lygon Street in 2004, Enoteca Sileno is now under the guardianship of Gino’s daughter Rosemary Portelli-  a former teacher and sommelier - and her husband John Portelli, along with their son Daniel. 

Gino died in 2010, but today, the company portfolio extends across thousands of products from classic biscotti, polenta from the Italian Alps and dozens of condiments, sauces and spreads, as well as Italian craft beers and liquors. 

“Times change, and we want to go with it - but we’ve got the classics everyone Italian knows and loves, and the funny thing is some of the products we’ve had from Gino’s early days are still our biggest sellers," says Rosemary Portelli. 

Australia's most expensive spritz is one of 15 on a new drinks list

Meet Australia's most expensive spritz - it will set you back $299 for a glass of Italian-accented refreshment.

Mantra South Bank general manager Adrian Lampe says the range of 15 spritzes is one of the highlights at hotel's new Ovello Bar & Kitchen eatery, which opens in early February.

The menu includes Italian favourites including fresh calamari fritti, gooey burrata, spaghetti vongole and stone-baked pizza made with a 37-year-old mother dough - all of which can be paired with spritzes.

“Ovello's signature spritz list includes a lychee spritz made with pink gin, sparkling rosé, lychee fruit and topped with edible pink glitter and flowers,” Lampe said.

“Or there's the Dolce Vita spritz with Sexy Cat marshmallow liqueur, sparkling moscato and vanilla, topped with fairy floss, mini marshmallows, and edible glitter.”

Single spritzes are $16 a glass or $50 by the carafe but the headline grabber is $299 The Duchess.

“For the true spritz connoisseurs, this very special drink is made with rose liqueur, Dom Pérignon Champagne and topped with authentic locally made Turkish Delight glazed in a gold lustre and served in a special glass for guests to take home,” Lampe said.

To be honest, it sounds absurd and waste of good Champagne, but to each their own.

The opening of the restaurant on February 9 coincides with Brisbane's recent economic revival.

With tourism bouncing back in Brisbane and a newfound energy amongst locals, we were eager to find a way to play a part in South Bank, and this was our answer,” Lampe said.

“It's bright, bubbly, and unbridled in fun. Plus we know Brisbane locals love Italian food, so it was an easy decision to bring our take on an Italian summer to our little pocket of Brisbane.”

The venue boasts a bar, two dining rooms, and al fresco seating.

Ovello is also hosting a special Valentine's Day event with a one-night only San Valentino menu for $75 per head, with an additional special spritz menu at $50 per pair to complete the evening.

See https://www.ovello.com.au/

A little slice of Umbria in rural Tasmania

 

Meet a casual Italian-accented restaurant in a small town in southern Tasmania where the flavours are bold and the prices very fair.

Welcome to Osteria at PettySessions, in an old court house on the banks of the Huon River in the hamlet of Franklin, around 45 minutes south of Hobart.

It's the perfect lunch destination for anyone on a day trip, or a good dinner choice for anyone staying in the Huon, where dining choices can sometimes be limited. We were staying just down the road at the excellent The Little Seed Studio. 

Osteria at PettySessions at has a clear focus on fresh Tasmanian ingredients - with a wallchart listing all their local suppliers.

Martino Crippa and Sofia Panfili - both originally from Umbria - are known for their exceptional pasta dishes and are open Wednesday to Saturday 12pm-3pm and 5pm-8:30pm.

The couple has just returned from a trip to visit family in Italy and in possession of some new recipe ideas.

Think dishes like house-cured salumi or seafood croquettes; luscious meatballs in a traditional sauce or ravoili with prawns, lemon and chilli. All delicious and beautifully presented.

Osteria is fully licensed with a good selection of local wines, as well as some Italian imports. Sofia can advise on your wine selection.

The desserts list is tiny, but tempting. 

Highly recommended.

Osteria at Petty Sessions: 3445 Huon Highway Franklin, TAS. (03) 6204 2706.

# The writer paid his own bill

A Monday night mistake

 

This blog is usually focused on positive wine, food and travel experiences. We love to recommend tastes that readers will love. 

Unfortunately options are limited on a Monday night in sleepy off-season Hobart. 

Instead of walking a few extra metres to reliably good Maldini, I instead opted for another Italian joint in the Salamanca precinct - closer to my hotel for the evening. 

There were some warning signs: a cavernous, almost empty dining room with ultra loud music and only a handful of patrons. A wine list put together by one wholesaler; often a sign of a lazy restaurateur. 

The service was of the “you right mate” genre but friendly and efficient. 

How wrong could I go wifh a fettucine carbonara, some garlic bread and a glass of Chianti? 

Pretty wrong, it turned out. The best thing about the meal was the complimentary carafe of tap water. 

The wine tasted as if it had been opened a week or two ago; the garlic bread was lamentably lacklustre and the pasta was like a poor, undercooked version of one of those Continental packet meals. 

I’d wager that no one in the kitchen has been anywhere nearer to Italy than Glenorchy  

I was looking for cheap and cheerful but ended up with cheap and dreadful. 

No need to be a Mensa scholar to know this is a place to avoid. 

Italians would laugh at a canteen this poor.