Wine innovation born of adversity

Sparkling wines called Blanc de Noir are almost always made from traditional Champagne varieties: pinot noir, or occasionally pinot meunier.

But a new release from Best's Great Western is a bubbly Blanc de Noir made, quite unusually, from shiraz grapes.

Fifth-generation winemaker Ben Thomson has chosen innovation to conquer adversity, using his excess shiraz to create the Blanc de Noir Cuvée, as well as a still Syrah Blanc.

The 2024 Blanc de Noir is made from 100% shiraz grapes in response to the challenges of recent vintages.

Thomson saw an opportunity to create something new out of the exceptional fruit from his Sugarloaf Creek vineyard - and the wine has been released ahead of the festive season.

“Making the most of adversity is something winemakers need to do to survive,” says Thomson.

“We’re raising a glass to the triumph of the Blanc de Noir project.  It takes a little while to get your head around the fact that these bubbly beads of delight are made from shiraz grapes.

"Once you get over that, you will discover brilliant clarity with apple, pear, lemon and lime characters dancing away on the palate.”

The fruit is early picked to ensure bright acid. I found the wine quite yeasty on the nose but delicate on the palate - definitely a style suited to enjoying with food.

See https://www.bestswines.com/product/2024-blanc-de-noir. The wines available at fine wine outlets for $30.

Family values: two new members join AFFW

Prestigious wine collective Australia's First Families of Wine (AFFW) has announced the admission of two new members: Best's Great Western and Clonakilla. 

The expansion elevates the AFFW membership to 12 family-owned and operated wine producers. 

Strict criteria govern membership to this group, of which multi-generational succession is the key factor. only the beginning. Also important are exceptional vineyard sites exemplifying the best of terroir as well as ‘iconic wines’ of lengthy pedigree. 

Environmental best practice and a long-term commitment to exporting their wines to the world are also paramount to the collective's objectives 

The membership now comprises Best's, Brown Brothers, Campbells, Clonakilla, d’Arenberg, Henschke, Howard Park, Jim Barry Wines, Tahbilk, Taylors, Tyrrell’s Wines and Yalumba. 

Best's Great Western (above) was established in 1866 and is one of Australia's oldest and most respected wineries.

 Located in Victoria's Great Western region, Best's boasts some of the world's oldest pre-phylloxera vines. The Thomson family have owned the winery since 1920. 

Ben Thomson, managing director and fifth-generation family member, said: "It’s an honour and privilege to join Australia’s First Families of Wine. 

"As a fifth-generation family business, we value the unique perspective that a family business offers and look forward to further opportunities to share our best-kept secrets. The families involved represent wineries with similar values and a shared understanding of the landscape and opportunities which makes us stronger as a collective group."

Canberra District star Clonakilla was founded by Irish research scientist John Kirk in 1971 and has grown from a small family venture into one of Australia's great family wineries. 

Clonakilla is celebrated for its signature Shiraz Viognier, a wine that has garnered numerous accolades and established the winery's reputation for excellence. 

Tim Kirk, John's fourth son and current chief winemaker (above with father), has been instrumental in the winery's success, and since August 2023, Tim's brother Stephen has taken on the role of CEO, ensuring the family legacy continues. 

"First Families of Wine’ is a powerful vision, highlighting a vital dimension of wine in Australia: the contribution of families," said Tim Kirk. 

"We are honoured to join such a brilliant community of passionate, like-minded wine families with a proven, multi-generational commitment to quality and innovation.” 

Speaking from Hong Kong’s Vinexpo - where members of the AFFW collective are currently sharing their stories with the world, Chester Osborn of d'Arenberg, the eighth chairman of AFFW, said: “We are delighted to have Best's Great Western and Clonakilla join AFFW. 

"Both wineries exemplify the dedication to quality, heritage, and family values that define our group.

"Their inclusion not only strengthens our collective mission to promote and celebrate the rich diversity of Australian wine but also enhances the depth of our shared stories and experiences. As we navigate these challenging times, the history and authenticity of our member families become our most valuable assets."