Family values: two new members join AFFW

Prestigious wine collective Australia's First Families of Wine (AFFW) has announced the admission of two new members: Best's Great Western and Clonakilla. 

The expansion elevates the AFFW membership to 12 family-owned and operated wine producers. 

Strict criteria govern membership to this group, of which multi-generational succession is the key factor. only the beginning. Also important are exceptional vineyard sites exemplifying the best of terroir as well as ‘iconic wines’ of lengthy pedigree. 

Environmental best practice and a long-term commitment to exporting their wines to the world are also paramount to the collective's objectives 

The membership now comprises Best's, Brown Brothers, Campbells, Clonakilla, d’Arenberg, Henschke, Howard Park, Jim Barry Wines, Tahbilk, Taylors, Tyrrell’s Wines and Yalumba. 

Best's Great Western (above) was established in 1866 and is one of Australia's oldest and most respected wineries.

 Located in Victoria's Great Western region, Best's boasts some of the world's oldest pre-phylloxera vines. The Thomson family have owned the winery since 1920. 

Ben Thomson, managing director and fifth-generation family member, said: "It’s an honour and privilege to join Australia’s First Families of Wine. 

"As a fifth-generation family business, we value the unique perspective that a family business offers and look forward to further opportunities to share our best-kept secrets. The families involved represent wineries with similar values and a shared understanding of the landscape and opportunities which makes us stronger as a collective group."

Canberra District star Clonakilla was founded by Irish research scientist John Kirk in 1971 and has grown from a small family venture into one of Australia's great family wineries. 

Clonakilla is celebrated for its signature Shiraz Viognier, a wine that has garnered numerous accolades and established the winery's reputation for excellence. 

Tim Kirk, John's fourth son and current chief winemaker (above with father), has been instrumental in the winery's success, and since August 2023, Tim's brother Stephen has taken on the role of CEO, ensuring the family legacy continues. 

"First Families of Wine’ is a powerful vision, highlighting a vital dimension of wine in Australia: the contribution of families," said Tim Kirk. 

"We are honoured to join such a brilliant community of passionate, like-minded wine families with a proven, multi-generational commitment to quality and innovation.” 

Speaking from Hong Kong’s Vinexpo - where members of the AFFW collective are currently sharing their stories with the world, Chester Osborn of d'Arenberg, the eighth chairman of AFFW, said: “We are delighted to have Best's Great Western and Clonakilla join AFFW. 

"Both wineries exemplify the dedication to quality, heritage, and family values that define our group.

"Their inclusion not only strengthens our collective mission to promote and celebrate the rich diversity of Australian wine but also enhances the depth of our shared stories and experiences. As we navigate these challenging times, the history and authenticity of our member families become our most valuable assets." 

Why distinguished sites matter to Australia's family wineries

The French word terroir encompasses the natural environment in which a wine is produced, including factors such as the soil, topography, and climate.

They believe the tastes and textures of a wine are majorly influenced by where is is grown: the terroir.

Indigenous Australians have a similar concept, known as pangkarra.

Four of Australia's leading family wineries go together for Zoom tastings this week in which they explored what they call "distinguished sites" - vineyards that produce top-quality fruit each vintage. 

Howard Park, Taylors, Brown Brothers and Yalumba looked at key sites in Western Australia, the Clare Valley, Victoria and the Barossa, discussing the key elements involved in growing fruit for benchmark wines. 

All four wineries are part of the group Australia's First Families of Wine and they each presented a shiraz and a cabernet sauvignon that reflected their terroir. Blend PR put together the event.

The representatives were Nic Bowen (below) from Howard Park talking about vineyards in Margaret River and the Great Southern, Mitchell Taylor (above) from Taylors on the St Andrews vineyard in Clare, Tracy Taylor from Yalumba looking at the Barossa and Eden valleys and Coonawarra, and Andrew Harris from Brown Brothers talking about various sites in regional Victoria. 

Yalumba alone has no fewer than 123 grape growers on its books - in addition to its estate vineyards - so it needs to know where its best sites are for wines like The Cigar, a Coonawarra cabernet, and the Paradox shiraz. 

Similarly, Brown Brothers has access to a wide range of resources for its Patricia Shiraz and Cabernet, while Mitchell Taylor concentrated on the "diversities and synergies" of just one standout vineyard.

Bowen looked at they key elements in the Scottsdale Shiraz from the Great Southern and the Leston cabernet from Margaret River. 

"This was a great collaboration between like-minded family wineries," said Mitchell Taylor. "It was an excellent opportunity to give members of the wine trade and media a look at our various and different vineyards." 

Regional expression, and terroir, are alive and well in Australia.

# Some of my favourite wines of the night are pictured above.