When a pizza joint is packed to the rafters on a chilly midweek evening that is a very good sign.
When you sit down and are surrounded by various Italian accents and dialects, that is almost certainly a harbinger of good things.
And so it proves at Regina La Pizzeria, a candidate for Sydney's best pizza place, in the emerging foodie destination of Wunderlich Lane, where Surry Hills meets Redfern at the intersection of Cleveland and Crown Streets.
Earlier this year, Regina La Pizzeria was awarded 3 slices in the Gambero Rosso Pizzerie d’Italia guide, becoming the only Sydney venue to receive the publication’s highest recognition
Co-owner Matteo Ernandez, originally from the island of Lampedusa, off Sicily, was the only Australian pizza chef included in the Best Pizza Awards 2026 - The Ones to Watch, announced in Milan in June.
Co-founder Michela Boncagni, a qualified sommelier, oversees the broader guest experience at Regina, spanning an Italian-accented wine list, and very friendly service. There is genuine hospitality on offer here.
Before Regina, Ernandez (above) led kitchens as head pizzaiolo at Da Orazio and Matteo Double Bay.
At Regina, he works with high-hydration doughs built on a blend of semolina, tipo 1 flour, and wheat germ, using a biga recipe to achieve what he defines as a “young but expressive” dough.
We perched at the bar table overlooking the open kitchen as Matteo and his team produced a formidable array of pizza styles.
And while pizza remains the core of the offering, the venue has evolved beyond the traditional pizzeria format, with a broader menu of hand-made pasta and seasonal dishes supported by an Italian-focused wine and cocktail program.
At the centre of Regina’s kitchen is a dough-focused philosophy, where hydration, fermentation and baking are carefully controlled to prioritise consistency, lightness and structure.
A key part of this approach is Ernandez's use of Molino Casillo flour, chosen for its emphasis on preserving the character of the wheat itself.
Regina uses Australia’s first Fazzone oven (above), a traditional Italian wood-fired oven built brick by brick in Naples, reassembled in Sydney and designed specifically for contemporary-style pizza.
There are traditional favourites, along with Pan Baked Pizza (padellino), cooked in small round metal pans rather than directly on stone.
Twice-Cooked Pizza, meanwhile, combines frying and baking techniques to create a pizza that is crisp on the outside while remaining light and airy inside.
On Tuesdays, Regina hosts Scrocchiarella pizza nights, showcasing the traditional Roman-style pizza known for its signature crunch.
The wine list focuses on Italian producers and native varietals. We tried a San Lorenzo di Vera Rosata, a montepulciano, sangiovese blend from the Marche, and a deliciously dry and savoury Emilio Schiacca Rossobrillo Nero d'Avola from the slopes of Mount Etna.
The same dough style also carries through to Regina’s chocolate padellino dessert, combining chocolate chips, vanilla mascarpone, mixed berries and hazelnuts.
We were, sadly, pizzaed out by this time, but did find just enough space for some delicious Sicilian-style cannoli (above) with ricotta, chocolate, and candied orange.
Easy to recommend this place.
Regina La Pizzeria Wunderlich Lane, Redfern, Sydney. https://www.reginalapizzeria.com
* The writer was hosted by Regina La Pizzeria
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