I want nothing this society's got; I'm going underground

The White Cliffs Underground Motel – the largest underground accommodation in Australia – has embarked on a major makeover including subterranean digging to further expand the 32-room hotel in the remote outback town.

One of only three ‘dugout’ motels in Australia, the White Cliffs Underground Motel attracts guests from around the world who enjoy a constant temperature of 22 degrees as well as a licensed restaurant, café, bar and above-ground swimming pool. 

It is located in a tiny opal-mining township is located in far western NSW, 1025km from Sydney and 781km north-east of Adelaide.

The motel dates back to the early 1900s when opal miners sought sleeping quarters away from the heat. It later became a family home and opened as a motel in 1989, with a new outback tourism company, Out of the Ordinary Outback, purchasing the property in 2016 as part of its growing stable of NSW outback experiences.

Unveiling details of the motel’s redevelopment, Out of the Ordinary Outback owner Scott Smith said eight rooms had already been completely renovated with new bedding and furnishings while beer on tap had also been added recently. 

Works to be completed by April 2018 included underground excavations to add en suite bathrooms to 12 rooms, a new family entertainment and games room, a new, outdoor lounge bar with wood-fired heater and flat-screen TV for use in winter, as well as eco-misting to cool down guests in outdoor areas in summer.

“Our underground motel in White Cliffs, a desert hamlet full of raw charm and colourful characters, is world famous so the aim of our upgrade is to improve amenities and further enhance the property’s appeal to guests from across Australia and overseas,” Smith said.

As part of the redevelopment, White Cliffs Underground Motel is offering a discount on two-night stays. Bookings made by September 30, 2017, are available from $291 per couple for two nights – an 11 per cent saving – or from $261 for solo travellers – a 13 per cent reduction. Tariffs include a continental breakfast both days.

Tri State Safaris and White Cliffs Underground Motel are owned by Out of the Ordinary Outback which also owns The Argent Motel in Broken Hill, the Warrawong on the Darling tourist camp and cabins at Wilcannia, the Copper City Motel in Cobar and the Ivanhoe Hotel. 

It all sounds like great fun. To book visit www.outoftheordinaryoutback.com.au or call 1300 688 225.

A beginner's guide to alternative grape varieties

There is a world of new grape varieties out there just waiting to be discovered. 

It used to be quite simple when you popped into a bottle shop to buy a bottle of wine. If you wanted white you'd probably go for chardonnay, semillon or New Zealand sauvignon blanc.

If it was red you were looking for then shiraz, cabernet sauvignon or maybe pinot noir were what you zeroed in on.

Nowadays, the choices are endless. In addition to natural wine, biodynamic wine, organic wine and gluten-free wine there are hundreds of imports to choose from. Even more confusingly there are wines made right here in Australia made from grape varieties ranging from aglianico to zweigelt.

It is estimated that there are now close to 150 different wine grape varieties grown in Australia. Here is an A-Z guide of some worth keeping an eye out for.

A:

Arneis: Originally from northern Italy, particularly Piedmont, arneis is a white grape that was often blended with nebbiolo in Italy. Known as “little rascal” because it is difficult to grow, in Australia it produces floral dry table wines for early enjoyment. Holm Oak Arneis from Tasmania is a benchmark.

Assyrtiko: A crisp, white grape variety from Greece that has just debuted in Australia, made by Jim Barry in the Clare Valley.

Aglianico: A red variety believed to originate in Greece that's now largely grown in southern Italy, it is tannic and tough in its youth. Used in a rose by Sam Scott for his La Prova label, it thrives in warm regions.

B:

Barbera: The third-most planted grape in Italy, barbera is a red variety most found in Piedmont. It has been planted in Australia for half a century but has yet to find a real home despite being grown in the Barossa, McLaren Vale and warm regions of New South Wales like the Hunter, where Margan make an outstanding example.

C:

Carignan: One of the mainstays of France's Languedoc region, carignan is found through the Mediterranean regions of Europe and is a high-yielding red grape often found in French bulk wines, along with cinsault. Often used in blends by wineries like Yangarra in McLaren Vale.

F:

Fiano: Originating from Campania in southern Italy, fiano was imported to Australia in 1978 and has found favour with both younger producers and drinkers. A lively white variety that stars at Oliver's Taranga in McLaren Vale and Pike's in the Clare Valley.

G:

Gamay: The classic light-red variety from Beaujolais in France, gamay is a refreshing red grape that is often blended with pinot noir – and can be chilled in summer. Look for examples from Sorrenberg in Central Victoria and Eldridge Estate on the Mornington Peninsula.

Graciano: A Spanish red grape that is grown primarily in Rioja, graciano has thrived in warmer parts of Australia. Woods Crampton source some excellent fruit from the Barossa.

Gruner-Veltliner: A spicy, white wine grape from Austria, Slovakia and the Czech Republic that can be made in both sweet and dry style. The first Australian version was made by Lark Hill outside Canberra, but there is a movement being led by Hahndorf Hill and other Adelaide Hills wineries.

L:

Lagrein: This red grape originates from the cooler Alto Adige/Trentino regions of northern Italy and produces intense wines with plenty of length. Look for Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy.

M:

Mencia: Many good wine judges are upbeat about the future of medium-bodied mencia in Australia and this northern Spanish variety from Galicia has enjoyed something of a boom at home over the past 20 years. Oliver's Taranga is the flag-bearer here.

Montepulciano: Widely planted in central Italy, this is a versatile, rich and expressive red variety that has shown great promise in several warmer regions of Australia. Try examples from di Giorgio in Coonawarra and Amato Vino in the Riverland.

N:

Nero d'Avola: Known as Calabrese in its native Sicily, Nero d'Avola is one of the success stories of new varieties in Australia, red-fruit flavours to the fore and easy to drink. Try standouts from Brash Higgins, Hither & Yon and Mount Horrocks.

P:

Pedro Ximenez: Used as a fruit source for the sweet sherry-style wines of Spain and Portugal, “PX” is sometimes used in Australian fortified wines for Campbells and Turkey Flat, and has also produced some excellent sweet wines for the likes of St Hallett in the Barossa Valley.

Pinot Blanc: Grown in Alsace, France, as well as Italy (Pinot Bianco), Germany and Austria (Weiss Burgunder), this neutral but easy drinking white offers stone-fruit flavours and thrives in the Yarra Valley (try Hoddles Creek or De Bortoli).

S:

Saperavi: One of the most ancient grape varieties in the world, this inky red originally came from Georgia (the country, not the US state) and is also grown in Kazakhstan and Moldova. Several Australian producers, including Symphonia and Patritti, are hopeful about its future.

T:

Touriga Nacional: This Portuguese grape is one to watch and has been planted by high-flyers including d'Arenberg and St Hallett. It is used extensively in the production of vintage port at home and for both fortified and table wines in Australia. Look for Three Dark Horses and St Hallett.

V:

Vermentino: One of the most successful new varieties in Australia, vibrant and fresh white variety vermentino is the most important white in Sardinia and also thrives in southern France (where it is known as Rolle). Dozens of Australian wineries have planted it: check out Billy Button or Chalmers.

Z:

Zweigelt: A lighter Austrian variety that is a cross between blaufrankisch and St Laurent, it is the most widely planted red grape in its homeland and has shown potential for Hahndorf Hill in the Adelaide Hills.

Zibibbo: An alternative name for the Muscat of Alexandria grape, and is also sometimes known as lexia. It is often blended in sweeter wines, but has enjoyed success as both fresh and crisp white and rosé sparkling wine styles for Brown Brothers. 

# This story is an edited version of one that appeared in Nourish Magazine 

A landmark Wynns Black Label hits all the right notes

A few decades ago now (Peter Douglas was still chief winemaker, so that makes it at least 25 years back) I attended an unintentionally hilarious wine tasting at Wynns Coonawarra Estate. 

This was well before Wynnsday and someone in the marketing department had decided to invite several writers from glossy women's magazines to join the usual grubby wine hacks to check out vintage. 

The ladies, all impeccably dressed and more used to fashion parades than crusher de-stemmers, watched as a load of fruit arrived - then recoiled in horror as two of the fattest rats seen in the Coonawarra region scurried across the fruit but failed to avoid being crushed and de-stemmed. 

The ladies screamed and whatever wine that fruit was used for had a higher than usual protein count. Which is why wine is rarely "totally" suitable for vegetarians. 

Nowadays, Wynnsday, held annually in the first week of August is Wynns big promotional event - marking the release, this year, of premium wines from the 2014 and 2015 vintages. 

I missed out on a structured tasting of 60 years of Wynns Coonawarra Estate Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon (you can't expect an invite to every event) but have tried enough Wynns wines over the past decade to opine that winemakers Sue Hodder and Sarah Pidgeon, along with viticulturist Allen Jenkins, lift standards every year. 

Hodder says the range aims to reflect both house style and seasonality; and the 2015 Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon is absolutely outstanding; cruising to a 96/100 score. 

The 1954 vintage of this wine was the first Australian-labelled cabernet sauvignon. Over the years it has become an affordable collectable. 

This year marks two milestones for Wynns. Senior winemaker Hodder celebrates her 25th vintage, along with the release of this 60th vintage of  Black Label cab sav. 

It is very approachable now; more Nick McKim than Eric Abetz, with a wonderful mouthful, balance and texture. Classic Coonawarra but with the ageability that comes with the appellation. Complex, beautifully integrated, and well worth every penny of the $45 being asked. 

I'd like to guide you through the rest of the Wynnsday releases (five in all), but my samples must have gone missing. You can't trust the post or courier companies nowadays! 

For details go here: www.wynns.com.au

A ridiculous travel bargain in Tasmania's Gourmet Farmer country

Anyone who has watched the Gourmet Farmer television series will be familiar with the jaw-dropping natural beauty of southern Tasmania's Huon Valley.

Just a scenic walk from Fat Pig Farm, you'll find Huon Valley View Cabin - an Airbnb property that offers one of the best-value accommodation that I've come across. 

If a Friday Feast long lunch at Fat Pig Farm is on your agenda, or you plan to explore Huon attractions like the Tahune Air Walk, Cygnet's cafes and artisan stores, the Hartz Mountains or Bruny Island, then Huon Valley View Cabin should be on your radar. 

Run by a local family au fait with all the regional gourmet secrets, this former artist's studio is bright and airy and has been converted into a very cosy completely self-contained country retreat with sweeping views down to the Huon River and across the water to the delightful hamlet of Franklin. 

You'll find a comfortable double bed and a single suitable for a child, a very functional kitchen and a brand-new bathroom with shower; fast, free wifi, digital TV, DVD player, music system, a wood fire for cool winter nights and a deck for taking in the views. 

There is a dining area and comfy chairs in front of the fire.

What's remarkable is that Huon Valley View starts from just $80 a night, with $15 per extra person. That means two nights of very comfy accommodation comes in at under $200 for a couple, which makes it a ridiculous bargain. 

There is even cereal, fresh milk and coffee thrown in, alongside some cupboard necessities. The village of Cygnet is just an eight-minute drive away for those who want to stock up on goodies prior to their arrival. 

And you'll find a couple of chocolates from local chocolatier Cygneture on your pillow - you don't even find that at five-star hotels nowadays. 

It's lovely downhill 30-40-minute walk to Fat Pig Farm and several local vineyards, as well as the river - and hosts Jane and Philip will pick you up if the climb back uphill seems too arduous. 

One warning; you'll need a car, as the rustic chic cottage is on a dirt road a few clicks off the main highway, which means it is perfectly quiet and home to wildlife including possums and raptors. 

Guests are invited to stroll the grounds and help themselves to vegetables, or eggs from the resident chickens - a real country experience. 

Beaches, bushwalking, markets are all close by. My only complaint is that the towels were too small, but I find that a lot nowadays.

For those who want to rustle up a meal or two using local ingredients, the kitchenette has a microwave, induction cooktop and a bench-top oven. 

The wifi is super-fast NBN - so you get big city conveniences in the country. I'm tempted to check in and I live just down the road! 

The new series of Gourmet Farmer screens on Thursdays at 8pm on SBS TV. 

Huon Valley View Cabin is available on Airbnb at: 
https://www.airbnb.com.au/rooms/6317606. 

         

What is it that hotel guests really want?

What really gets hotel guests excited? 

It certainly isn't the chance to party, or meet new people. And they hate being out of digital contact.

A survey of over 5,000 travellers from around the world conducted by AccorHotels and GFK research institute to find out who an ideal travel companion would be in 2017 revealed that a fast and free internet connection is what 47% of people surveyed chose as what they missed most when away from home. 

This is especially true in the 18-24 age bracket, with 54% wanting to stay in touch. 

Preferred travel companions remain spouses, children and friends. But 19% of travellers consider their favourite travel companion to be themselves. 

A remarkable 25% of Germans, Americans and Indians surveyed said they prefer to go away on their own.

The survey showed 38% of respondents said that their bed and pillows are what they miss the most when they’re away, which was almost as many as those who said they missed friends and family the most (40%).

In contrast to the Aussie stereotype, only 16% of hotel guests told Accor they were travelling to party. Younger travellers, aged 18-24, were keenest on the idea of solo trips, but were also the happiest to travel with friends.

Overall, fewer than half of respondents wanted to travel with their friends, and only about half were keen on the idea of taking kids on vacation.

# Online study conducted by AccorHotels.com, assisted by the research institute GfK in 2017 with 5,939 men and women aged between 18 and 65 who have spent at least one night in a paying establishment (hotel, guesthouse, bed and breakfast etc) over the past 12 months. Study conducted between April and May.

Las Vegas: a magnet for winners, and losers

It's been a while, but there is nowhere on the planet quite like the Las Vegas strip.

Six kilometres of neon excess; 24-hour entertainment; casino after casino, hooker after hooker (sorry, hostess after hostess). Replicas of an Egyptian pyramid, the Venetian Grand Canal and the Eiffel Tower.

The scent of optimism, balanced by the bitter stench of desperation. The whole world in one city. The entertainment capital of the world. The casino capital. The fight capital.

Would-bes come from all over the world to this garish temple of overindulgence and intemperance in the Nevada desert.

Most arrivals at the airport dream of making it big; on the roulette wheel, as heavyweight champion, as the next Elvis Presley, or marrying Mr Right.

Like Hollywood Boulevard, it can be a road to glory or a place of broken dreams.

The greed here dwarfs any greed you have experienced; everyone is on the make. There is only one currency that matters; how much money you have in your pocket (or perhaps the colour of your American Express card). Same same.

That's the thing about Las Vegas. The glitz and the promise of better days can grab you; give you unrealistic ambitions. It is all too easy for a high-roller at ringside to morph within 24 hours into a low-roller with a seat so far from the action it is like watching ants in combat.

You can spend day after day chasing the almighty dollar, not sure whether it is day or night. Winners are celebrated and feted; losers trudge through the heat and dust and head for the bus station.

While it is a magnet for high-stakes poker players and gourmets, five-star hotel lovers, fight fans and night-life lovers, Las Vegas can also be an outdoor destination for those willing to step away briefly from those flashing bright lights.

Close to the city are the Red Rock National Conservation area, Lake Mead National Recreation area and Mount Charleston. 

There are also Las Vegas helicopter tours, Grand Canyon tours, the Hoover Dam, and Las Vegas strip tours departing every few minutes.

Las Vegas continuously reinvents itself, so even regular visitors among the 43 million who make the trip annually will never run out of fun things to do.

This is not a city for taking lightly. There is a grit underneath the glitter but the adventurous will be well rewarded; until their money runs out.

Qantas return flights to Las Vegas from Sydney and Melbourne via Los Angeles start from $1200. Visit www.Qantas.com.