New gourmet festival for regional Victoria

Regional Victoria has gained a new gourmet festival with the launch of the East Gippsland Winter Festival, which aims to celebrate art, food, music, beer and wine.

The festival, which will run from June 18 to July 11, will showcase the villages and towns of East Gippsland through a series of pop-up events, cultural activities, exhibitions and workshops.

The program can be found at https://egwinterfest.com.au/ and includes both day and night activities.

The festival kicks off in Bairnsdale with a launch event of live music, roaming performers, art projections by local and international artists and food and wine. The weekend's events will include a six-course dining experience with local produce and beverages at Long Paddock, Lindenow for up to 40 people, who will enjoy smoked, slow-cooked and roasted foods with the food fire roaring.

On Sunday, June 20, Lightfoot and Sons Winery will host a Pinot Picnic and Masterclass. Lightfoot Wines & Sardine Eatery + Bar will come together to celebrate Pinot Noir at Lightfoot's Cellar Door.

The weekend of June 26 will include the Lakes Lights Festival, while Nicholson River Winery will host a Winter Love Matchmaking night for singles over 40 and Omeo will host a Bonfire, Burgers and Banter pop-up event.

The festival continues into July with the weekend of July 3-4 seeing a Deep Winter event at Sailors Grave, while in Lakes Entrance guests can enjoy a night of hearty winter foods, sourced locally and served with Gippsland Wines and Beers at The Slow Movement Community Dinner.

The final weekend will see a Winter Tunes Music Camp in Marlo, an adventure race in
Metung and Food Truck Festival at Mallacoota. On the final day, July 11, local chef Rob Turner of Northern Ground will be feature chef at a long table-style event at Kings Cove, Metung to celebrate local food, wine and cooking.

Hunter terroirists celebrate 30 years of winemaking

On June 28, 1790, convict Thomas Heather arrived in Port Jackson on board the Second Fleet ship Neptune.

Of the 1006 convicts on board the three Second Fleet vessels, 273 died during the voyage and 486 landed in Australia suffering from various illnesses - including scurvy - from the arduous voyage.

Heather survived and thrived in Australia, however, marrying Elizabeth Lee, who arrived on the Third Fleet ship Mary Ann a year later.

Six years later he was granted 30 acres at Windsor, known as Eather Farm (the H having vanished from the family name in the mists of time).

In 1831, Alexander Munro arrived in Sydney on the HSS York and in 1860 he planted the Bebeah vineyard at Singleton in the Hunter Valley, establishing a reputation for outstanding wines.

The die was cast for the establishment of Meerea Park Wines, which this month is celebrating 30 years.

In 1910, Reginald Eather, the grandfather of Meerea Park wines founders Garth and Rhys Eather (below), married Harriet Cousins, Alexander Munro's granddaughter.

Today, the flagship Meerea Park wines are named after pioneer and family member Alexander Munro.

While the Eather family started growing table grapes during World War II, it was not until much later that they planted wine grapes. In 1989, chardonnay vines were grafted onto table grape vines and in 1991 the first vintage of Meerea Park Chardonnay was released.

Fast forward 30 years and brothers Rhys and Garth celebrated the 30th anniversary of their now booming wine business as Sydney's swish Aria restaurant, which - fittingly - directly overlooks Port Jackson and Sydney Cove (Circular Quay).

The 30th anniversary wine lunch matched Meerea Park wines in three brackets of six with some of the great names of global and Australian wine production; Brokenwood, Tyrrells, Peter Lehmann, Leuwin Estate, Henschke, Blain Gagnard and Delas among them. I was fortunate enough to be among the guests.

That bravery paid off with the 2011 Alexander Munro Aged Release Semillon, 2019 Alexander Munro Chardonnay and 2018 Alexander Munro more than holding their own in an illustrious line-up of many more expensive releases.

A 2018 Meerea Park "Black" Shiraz ($300) also delighted guests, who enjoyed three courses of Aria food.

"We've had 195 years in the Hunter Valley as a family," said Garth Eather. "At 23 and 25 years old we started a brand with just 351 cases of chardonnay."

Today, Meerea Park produces over 10,000 cases of wine annually and exports globally.

"We handcraft all our wines using fruit grown on some of the Hunter Valley's best vineyard sites that have a track record for producing the best possible grapes in both good and not so good vintages," says winemaker Rhys Eather.

"We are Hunter Valley 'terroirists', specialising in individual vineyard semillon, chardonnay and shiraz, sourced from unique vineyard sites."

Winemaker Rhys Eather is a Roseworthy graduate in wine science and has gained international winemaking experience in France and Italy, spending the 1998 vintage at M. Chapoutier in the Rhone

Meerea Park has established a reputation over the last decade as one of the leading wine producers in the Hunter Valley. Across the board, they make wines of style and substance.

The Meerea Park cellar door at Roche Estate in Pokolbin (above) is open seven days a week. See www.meereapark.com.au/

A little taste of France on the waterfront in Sydney

While it is all but impossible for Australians to travel right now, they can still enjoy a little slice of France at the Sofitel Darling Harbour. 

At a time when generic rules the hotel landscape, the cheery "bonjours" from the hotel staff and the distinct French accent at Atelier by Sofitel restaurant and the Champagne Bar make a welcome change. 

And as someone who spent five years living in France, I have to say that the crème brûlée (below) at dinner and the fluffy omelette for breakfast matched anything you'd find in la Belle France. 

Throw in a wine list dotted with Sancerres and Cahors and the chance to finish dinner with an Armagnac or a Calvados and there is plenty here to please even the most demanding Francophile. 

I'm told many of the kitchen staff are French, as is head chef Eric Costille - hence the southern French-inspired menu. 

My dinner comprised a petite but delicious floral tartlet with eggplant caviar, mushrooms, asparagus and truffle ricotta (below); a hearty portion of red snapper with crispy shaved vegetables and sauce vierge; and that unforgettable orange crème brûlée with spiced crumble and passionfruit sorbet. 

Other choices might include duck breast with raspberry port sauce, endive, polenta and oyster mushroom, or perhaps a very French lamb shank navarin with goat cheese gnocchi and artichoke hearts. 

Beware ordering sides like market greens or pommes frites (that's chips to you and me) as the portions are enormous and enough for sharing between four or six people. 

Try to get a room that offers access to Club Millesime, the top floor club with terrific food and drinks included in your tariff. The appetisers (below) are enough for dinner for two. And the views are amazing. 

Plus you have position, position and position on your side in what has been dubbed as an Urban Resort.  

The Sofitel Darling Harbour is adjacent to the new International Convention Centre Sydney and just a short walk from shopping areas like the QVB and Chinatown. 

The 590 rooms (the hotel actually feels a lot more boutique) offer superb views of the harbour and there are three bars, restaurant, club lounge and outdoor infinity pool, as well a gym filled with folk furiously punishing their bodies.

Do try to get to Club Millesime for a drink at dusk - the light is bewitching.  

There are dozens of other dining choices right on your doorstep - and real hotel staff when you get back. Someone to take your bags to your room, even. OId-school hotel service. 

All rooms feature LED Smart TVs, air-conditioning, coffee- and tea-making facilities, mini bars (post Covid), safes and all bathroom mod cons, as well as fast and free wifi.

The hotel is unashamedly five-star (no pods here) and offers a range of packages. I'd highly recommend spending a weekend in France without leaving Sydney. 

See www.sofitelsydneydarlingharbour.com.au/ 

# The writer was a guest of the Sofitel Darling Harbour 

Hunter Valley preparing for a month-long party

The Hunter Valley is back baby. 

One of Australia's favourite adult playgrounds is pulling in visitors following Covid-19 and few regions can match the Hunter when it comes to cellar doors, restaurants, distilleries, golf courses and day spas.

But with numbers still down and precautions in place you won't have anyone jostling you for position at tastings. 

Even better the new-release 2021 semillons from star producers like Thomas Wines and De Iuliis are being released right now. 

With myriad attractions for wine lovers and gourmets, including chef Andy Wright and winemaker Andrew Thomas (above), the Hunter Valley Wine & Food Festival returns throughout the month of June. 

Presented by Wine Selectors, the 2021 Hunter Valley Wine & Food Festival will be a celebration of the region's outstanding wines, diverse and abundant fresh local product and the local creative talent. 

The program is a mix of more than 30 daily and weekly tastings and experiences, alongside some innovative and unique one-off events. I taste tasted some of them for you last weekend. 

There will be gourmet lunches and winery dinners, winemaking, blending and cellaring masterclasses, wine and food pairings, cooking classes and picnics. Even fireworks  - although I am not sure what that is about. 

“We’re thrilled to be able to bring our signature festival to life again this year after a challenging 2020." said Christina Tulloch, president of the Hunter Valley Wine & Tourism Association.

"Our reputation as a producer of award-winning wines and home to hatted restaurants is at an all-time high, so we can’t wait to be able to offer consumers the opportunity to experience some of these great wine and food offerings first-hand.” 

The advice is to book right away for any event that catches your fancy. Many events are already close to sold out, and numbers are restricted. 

“This year’s program is packed with great events and with so much interest in wine and food tourism post-COVID that we recommend people book all aspects of their visit early, including accommodation, wine tastings, events and experiences as well as restaurants," says Amy Cooper, CEO of the Hunter Valley Wine and Tourism Association. 

The full program, with something for all wine and food lovers, is now live at www.winecountry.com.au/events/wine-and-food-festival

Among the highlights are: 

Grange vs the Hunter Daily 11am-5pm at Wine House Hunter Valley. The 2014 vintage of Penfolds Grange will be up against three local stars in Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz, Silkman Reserve Shiraz and Mount Pleasant Maurice O'Shea. 

The 100-metre Meal Every Sunday in June, talented chef Joey Ingram (above) will present a feast at which everything on your plate and in your glass has been grown within 100 metres of your restaurant table. Enjoy a kitchen tour followed by a three-course lunch in the hatted Margan restaurant.

Whispering Brook Olive Long Table Luncheon On Saturday, June 5 from noon to 4pm, Whispering Brook will host an al fresco Mediterranean-inspired lunch in its beautiful olive grove at Broke Fordwich (above). Indulge in a four-course menu designed by chef Frank Fawkner of EXP matched with single vineyard estate wines and live music. 

Feast at the Scarborough Family Homestead  Join the Scarborough family at their original homestead for a delicious winter feast on the evening of June 12, catered by Andy and Janet Wright of Pokolbin Catering Co. Enjoy canapés on arrival, then move into the lovely homestead to enjoy dishes  cooked over hot coals in a wine barrel matched with superb wines from the cellar door-exclusive The Obsessive range. 

The Distinguished Dozen A rare opportunity to sample a dozen outstanding vintage of Thomas Wines' flagship Braemore Semillon and Kiss Shiraz along with a tasting plate from leading local chef Andy Wright followed by lunch in the winery. June 5: semillon, June 12: shiraz. Some of the wines you will taste are mind-blowing. 

Wine and beer festival: The ninth annual Hunter Valley Wine and Beer Festival will take place on Saturday, June 19 at the Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley.  

Other standouts include a Winter Meet the Makers lunch at Bimbadgen Estate on June 20,  • 12-4pm with winemaker Richard Done, and the Wine House Grange Masterclass and lunch (above) on June 26. This features a masterclass hosted by former Brokenwood winemaking legend Iain Riggs AM, tastings of wines including Grange and Brokenwood Graveyard, lunch prepared by Andy Wright and a bracket of some of the finest 2019 vintage reds.  

# The writer was a guest of the De Iuliis Winemakers House (below), one of 80 local properties managed by Hunter Valley Stays and capable of catering for up to eight people in style. Call 0477 010 010 or email stays@huntervalleystays.com.au 

See https://www.gourmetontheroad.com/2021/02/stay-in-centre-of-hunter-valley-wine.html 

Stay tuned to Gourmet on the Road for features on several Hunter operatives mentioned here over the next couple of weeks.  

Enjoy a glass or two of wine; help save the planet

Tamburlaine Organic Wines has announced an innovative collaboration with gardening expert and environmentalist Jamie Durie to create a small batch of wines called True Earth Collective. 

The very limited releases are from organically certified vineyards, but also come with extra benefits.

“We’re thrilled to be partnering with Jamie and Planet Ark on a project that is so synergistic with our values,” said Mark Davidson, Tamburlaine’s chief winemaker (below).

“Tamburlaine has prioritised organic and regenerative farming practices across our vineyards for over two decades now. We’re staunch believers that it’s the way forward for winemaking and more broadly for agriculture in Australia.” 

For every bottle of True Earth purchased, consumers are donating $2 to Planet Ark’s National Tree Day, as well as receiving fractional shares in an Australian sustainability exchange traded fund (which sounds like a good thing). 

"I am passionate about the need to honour and heal our land,” said Durie. “This collaboration with Tamburlaine was born through the mutual respect for land and how it’s managed. We are tremendously excited to see this project from conception through to completion." 

Durie has been an ambassador for National Tree Day since 1999 and worked with Planet Ark on environmental initiatives for over 27 years. 

There are three wines in the collection: Wild Chardonnay, Malbec Shiraz and Cabernet Shiraz, each selected from organic vineyards across Orange and Canowindra in Central West New South Wales. 

True Earth Collective wines will be available for purchase exclusively online and through Tamburlaine cellar doors in the Hunter Valley and Millthorpe. All are priced at $30 with discounts for Tamburlaine club members. 

See https://tamburlaine.com.au/collections/true-earth 

Humming the right tune? Star chef goes vegan

Would you pay US$335 per person for a vegan meal?

I wouldn't. 

But leading US chef Daniel Humm has unveiled plans to turn his three-Michelin-star New York restaurant Eleven Madison Park (above) into a vegan venue.

As reported by Food and Wine, Swiss-born Humm has said that EMP is going entirely vegan, making it one of only two three-star restaurants in the world to refrain from serving meat, seafood or dairy. The other is King’s Joy in Beijing.

Eleven Madison Park will reopen on June 10 with a 100% vegan tasting menu.

Which, given the cost of most fruits and vegetables means Humm will be making massive profit margins. 

“Guests have never come to us to just eat a piece of steak or a lobster, they’ve always come to us to be on a journey," Humm told US media. 

Perhaps a journey to millionaire status for him and poverty for his customers. 

“Of course it’s about deliciousness in the end," Humm said. "We want to create a restaurant that meat eaters will be blown away by eating vegetables.” 

The only exceptions to the eatery's plant-based rule will be milk and honey for coffee and tea, though meat will be served via the venue’s private dining service.

So it is not about principles. Perhaps it is about headlines. 

Last year Humm helped feed frontline workers in New York during the height of the Covid-19 pandemic.

“We have to change the model of what our restaurant is; our whole business model has to change," Humm says. "Our practices of animal production, what we’re doing to the oceans, the amount we consume: It is not sustainable.

“If Eleven Madison Park is truly at the forefront of dining and culinary innovation, to me it’s crystal clear that this is the only place to go next. This could change the world.” 

So maybe it is about ego.