A beginners' guide to eating and drinking in the Huon Valley

If it were not for the Gourmet Farmer, the Huon Valley in the deep south of Tasmania might have remained a well-kept secret rather than one of Australia's fastest-emerging wine and food destinations.

But Matthew Evans chose the Huon Valley as the base for his successful series of TV shows and books (and currently has a restaurant under construction at Fat Pig Farm) and word has spread.

Today the Huon, the valley that put the apples into the Apple Isle, is home to a booming cider industry, boutique wineries whose artisan bottlings you'll find on the lists at trendy wine bars in Sydney and Melbourne, and cute country cafes specialising in local produce.

Whether you are looking for saffron, fresh berries, locally grown mushrooms, or beef from Huon Valley Meats, you've come to the right place – and the Huon is only a 30-minute drive south of Hobart, making it an ideal day trip or weekend destination.

There are no traffic lights here. No McDonald’s; no chain hotels. You will find wild rivers, orchards, forests and farmers selling produce from honesty stalls at their farm gates.

The local council recently launched some ambitious region branding “Product of the Huon” with a vow to one day see the valley regarded among the top gourmet destinations in the country. [www.thehuon.com].

Cygnet

The hamlet of Cygnet, population 1000 or so, is the foodie capital of the Huon, dotted with eateries and surrounded by vineyards, apple orchards and berry farms. It is populated by an intriguing mix of traditional farmers and newcomers with an artistic bent. The hills surrounding Cygnet produce strawberries in abundance, apples for the locally-made Pagan cider, organic vegetables from Alex Taylor at Golden Valley Farm and saffron for Tas-Saff. These and mushrooms from Cygnet Mushroom Farm and goat cheese from Tongola Goat Farm make their way onto the menus of Hobart's trendiest eateries. Locally, the award-winning Red Velvet Lounge is something of an icon, with chef Steve Cumper serving up dishes with a swagger of local chic using ingredients like Huon Valley Berkshires free-range pork. Fresh, usually organic, produce is also the driving force behind the menus at the rustic Lotus Eaters Cafe, which always has vegan and vegeterian-friendly menu choices. Newcomer Port Cygnet Diner sees chef Asher Gilding serving high-end burgers and fish and chips featuring local flathead. There's good coffee and country food at the Schoolhouse Coffee Shop.The biggest winery in the region, Panorama, recently sold and its cellar door is currently closed but you can taste at Hartzview, where liqueurs like cassis are the speciality, and at Two Bud Spur (weekends only). Also look out for brands like Chatto (the personal label of Mount Pleasant winemaker Jim Chatto) and Sailor Seeks Horse, by rising stars Paul and Gilli Lipscombe. Chatto says: “This part of the world has the potential to be among the most exciting sites for pinot noir anywhere in Australia.” Those with a sweet tooth will want to pop in to Cygneture Chocolates, where Gillian Ryan uses fresh local fruits in her creations. Many of the local small farmers sell their produce at the Cygnet Market (first and third Sundays of the month), or you can pick up High Flint's home-made hummus, Cygnet exotic mushrooms and hot Huon Valley kitchen pies at the Cygnet Garden Larder on the main street.

Huonville

On the road into Huonville, the largest town in the region, you can't miss The Apple Shed at Grove, home of Willie Smiths Organic Cider, and the venue for the Huon Valley MidWinter Festival. A range of ciders is available for tasting and there is appetising local produce and a museum devoted to the region's apple-growing history. A Tasmanian version of the apple brandy calvados is in production. In town, artisan chocolatier The Cat's Tongue and cafe The Local (with the best coffee in town), are popular with local foodies and just outside town, at Ranelagh, you'll Home Hill Wines. Home Hill won the Jimmy Watson Trophy at the Royal Melbourne Wine Show for its 2014 Kelly's Reserve Pinot Noir, and is also home to an excellent restaurant overlooking the vines. Boutique winemaker Kate Hill is based in a rustic nearby shed, and the town is also home to food writer Michelle Crawford. The Huon is also about to get its first craft brewery at Ranelagh with former home brewer Bradley Churchill expecting to launch his opening salvo of Church Hill brews next week. Also check out the Summer Kitchen bakery in Ranelagh and long-time favourite Huon Manor restaurant in Huonville.

SoHu (south of Huonville]

The Huon Highway meanders south of Huonville until it runs out at Southport. Next stop Antarctica. Turn left to find Huon Aquaculture at Hideaway Bay, producers of a wide range of salmon and trout goods that are sold globally and employers of close to 500 locals. Check the the attractive villages of Franklin, Port Huon, Geeveston and Dover. Franklin is home to Frank's Cider (where tastings are conducted in a former church) and the re-born Aqua Grill waterfront restaurant where two Italian chefs have revamped the menu. At Port Huon, also overlooking the river, Sass at the Kermandie Hotel is one of the few reliable places for eating seven days a week, while in Geeveston you'll find arguably the best sushi in Tasmania at Masaaki's – a hole-in-the-wall spot where chef Masaaki Koyama opens just on Fridays and Saturdays and is often sold out by 1.30pm. Bookings are essential – but he's also at the Hobart Farm Gate Market every Sunday. You can pick berries fresh from the hedgerows in season or maybe fish for river trout. You'll pass turn-offs for Heriot's Point and Wombat Springs -but will need an appointment for a wine tasting.

Where to stay

The Kermandie Hotel, overlooking the Huon and a marina at Port Huon, offers comfortable modern rooms. 

Frenchman's River comprises two new luxury cottages; the Writer's House and the Helmsman's House, in the hills above Cygnet launched this month by author and former McLeod's Daughters and Hi-5 creator Posie Graeme-Evans. 

# This is edited version of a story that first appeared in The Age and the Sydney Morning Herald 

Get ready for Tasmania's first "calvados"

First it was wine, then whisky, then cider. Now Tasmania is set to produce its first commercial volumes of apple brandy, known in France as calvados. 

In a new page in the history of artisan Tasmanian distilling, Huon Valley cider producer Willie Smith's has unveiled the first Australia-built Alembic Still that will be used to make apple brandy. 

It's a $200,000 investment to further value-add to the Tasmanian apple industry and build on Willie Smith's reputation as a producer of quality hand-crafted beverages.

Approximately 180 people attended the official launch at The Apple Shed in Grove on Tuesday night, conducted by the `godfather' of Tasmania's whisky and spirits industry, Bill Lark.

The event included a barrel filling ceremony, with Lark filling the first 100-litre sherry
barrel - a product that will be released in three years' time.

Willie Smith’s head cider maker, and now distiller, Dr Tim Jones, said he was extremely
pleased with the initial spirit run saying "the spirit is smooth and fine, with creamy complexity and apple aromas – it expresses the characteristics of the cider we produce for this spirit and is also the result of this wonderfully designed and built still.

"It's a process of patience, but we think it will be well worth the wait!''

In the shorter-term Willie Smith’s is already selling Apple Schnapps and will be releasing Pear and Cherry Schnapps made with the still in the next couple of months.

Peter Bailly from Knapp Lewer Contracting crafted the copper still in Tasmania.

It is the first purpose-built Alembic copper still in Tasmania and probably Australia.

Willie Smith's co-owner, Sam Reid, said Tasmania now has 15 distilleries. 

"We feel that this will be another boost for tourism in the Huon Valley and Southern Tasmania and give people even more of a reason to visit our great region,'' he said.

"There are viewing windows from where you can watch the still in operation along with tours at set times planned for the future."

The Charentais alembic still was designed in the early 16th century in the Cognac region of France, where it is still used for fine cognac production. To this day, it is the preferred still of choice for calvados producers in Normandy in France.

Unlikely alliance proves a festival winner

It is an unlikely combination that works.

Celebrating its sixth year, Pyrmont Festival returns in 2016 with a 10-day program to showcase the best of the Mudgee Region and Pyrmont. Country cool meets city funk. 

The country folk hit the big smoke and get together with the inner-city hipsters for a festival that celebrates wine, food and fun, including wine dinners and tastings, photographic exhibitions and art displays.

Participating Mudgee wineries include Burrundulla Wines, Robert Stein Vineyard, Huntington Estate and Petersen’s, Mudgee Ridge, Moothi Estate, Walter Wines, Burnbrae Wines and Manners Wines. 

Pyrmont eateries featured are Blue Eye Dragon, Café Morso, Flying Fish, Bar Zini, The Apprentice, Brio, The Persian Room, Zebra Lounge, Le Trader, Quarryman Hotel, Dunkirk Hotel, Ovolo 1888, Gourmandise de Paris and Pyrmont Point Hotel, showcasing the best of their dining experiences with Mudgee wines to match at lunches, dinners and tastings across the 10 days.

The highlight of the festival will be a two-day free headliner event in the City’s award winning Pirrama Park on Saturday and Sunday, May 14-15. 

An event designed for the whole family, with live music, local and Mudgee region artists showcasing sculptures, rides and children’s entertainment and approximately 100 stalls where guests can meet winemakers, participate in tastings and sample a broad range of fine foods.

Pyrmont Festival is a product of industry collaboration with Mudgee Region Tourism, Mid-Western Regional Council and Mudgee Wine Grape Growers Inc, presented by Pyrmont Ultimo Chamber of Commerce with the City of Sydney. 

It is an opportunity for Pyrmont, just two kilometres from the CBD, to demonstrate its position as one of Sydney’s fastest-growing tourist, creative, cultural and dining precincts.

The Mudgee Region is the third largest grape-growing region in NSW and is three hours west of Sydney (on a good day). 

For more event information and accommodation, or for a chance to win a luxury Mudgee Region Sensory Escape, go to www.pyrmontfestival.com.au

Whisky, vodka and gin are old hat. Now Australia has its first rakia

Australian artisans have enjoyed huge recent success with whiskies, gins, vodkas and other spirits. Now an enterprising pair of Adelaide brothers has launched the country's first rakia. 

Rakia originates from the Balkans region of Eastern Europe and is a fruit brandy. It is widely considered to be the national drink of Macedonia, Bosnia, Bulgaria, Croatia, Romania, Kosovo, Montenegro and Serbia. 

Now Jon and Con Lioulios have distilled and launched the only new-age rakia to be licensed and sold in Australia; 36 Short.

The name is a tribute to Jon and Con’s Macedonian-born father, Pando, who bought the recipe to Australia almost 50 years ago. It refers, somewhat obscurely, to his suit size.

The Lioulios brothers are primarily known for their successful, fresh, vegetable produce business Quality Lines, but have branched out in a new direction.

Con Lioulios said: “Recent trends and statistics tell us that young and old people alike are experimenting with spirits and liquors more than ever before and we wanted to share our very own rakia with their sophisticated palates."

“Dad dedicated a lot of time, energy, love and patience to distilling, and with four generations who all had the same passion for distilling rakia preceding him, now it is our turn to do the same.”

So how to use this mysterious spirit? 

“Rakia can be served straight before a meal and be accompanied with pickled vegetables as well as cured and barbequed meats," says John Lioulios. "Our white Rakia can be used to make various cocktails."

Yes, you read that right. Not content with making on rakia; the brothers have made both a white and a gold version, both made from grape juice distilled with star anise.

The White is viscous and refreshing with a hint of aniseed, smooth, refreshing ideal for cocktails, while the aged gold is more complex and spicy and ideal for enjoying on the rocks. Neither is for the faint-hearted. Both weigh in at 45% alcohol. 

Individually bottled and batched, the rakia is hand finished with the closure dipped in a glossy wax, which I found fiddly and annoying. It should probably be re-thought.

Both 36 Short White and Gold have recommended retail prices of $70 and are available online at www.36short.com as well as selected bottle shops, hotels and bars in Adelaide including Electra House, Edinburgh Cellars, Udaberri, Mr. Good Bar and Thrift Shop.

There's a new scam in town

From the same people who brought you the "temple is closed" yarn and the "hotel fully booked" scam comes a new rort that leaves hapless tourists with nowhere to turn.

This scam involves a well-dressed couple with a happy child dancing alongside them on a busy city sidewalk.

No one would give them a second glance.

Except the child collides with you, quickly, deftly, snatching your wallet, or in my case my iPhone, from my pocket.

Fortunately I was on to them. The child still had my iPhone in its hand.

The parents, of course, expressed sorrow and amazement that such a thing could have occurred. They spoke faux sternly to the child, who handed back my phone.

It is close to being the perfect scam. If they get away with it they are home free. If the angry tourist rounds on them they plead innocence. 

And if the tourist manages to call the police then they can hardly change a four-year-old who made "a mistake".

Ingenious. And one to watch out for. Bangkok today, who knows where tomorrow? 

A quiet celebration to mark 20 years of Margan Wines

Andrew and Lisa Margan are among my favourite wine people. 

Not only do they produce a fine range of wines from the Hunter Valley at sensible prices, they are operate a great cellar door and eatery in a dramatically beautiful setting.

They experiment with different grape varieties, grow their own produce for their restaurant and always seem to be having a great time. 

And, while bringing up a young family, they also seem to have discovered the secret of eternal youth. They just don't change. 

Margan Family Wines celebrates its 20th birthday in May, with a series of events and a new range of wines to mark the milestone.

The Margan story began two decades ago when young Tyrrell’s winemaker Andrew Margan decided to have a go himself and make wine under his own name. His parents had a vineyard in the Hunter Valley in the 1970s so there was already wine in his DNA. 

Armed with a purchase order from a wine club he was able to fund the costs for the first wines. After that he and wife Lisa, were on their own. 

Today, Andrew Margan is chief winemaker and viticulturist, while Lisa is executive chef, develops the ‘estate grown’ projects (lambs, bees, garden and deli goods) and manages the Margan Restaurant and Cellar Door. 

There is now a team of 30 staff across the business spanning winery sales, vineyard, cellar door, restaurant and admin.

The wines, restaurant and cellar door have picked up numerous awards, with Andrew Margan being named Viticulturist of the Year and Lisa Margan being awarded Excellence in Food Tourism at the National Tourism Awards, both last year.

And now the next generation is also coming through, with the couple's eldest son Ollie just about to finish a double degree in winemaking and viticultural science at the University of Adelaide. Daughter Alessa is studying communications at UTS while working in wine and food PR (and provided much of the info for this story) and their other son, James, is studying economics at Sydney University.

Today the Margan family owns 100 hectares of its own vineyards – including icon Hunter varieties semillon and shiraz and pioneering varieties including barbera and albarino (yes, real albarino, not savagnin). 

Production has grown to around 30,000 cases a year with the new "Breaking Ground" range featuring an albarino and a tempranillo graciano shiraz launched on May 1 to mark the 20th birthday milestone. The albarino is a stunner

There was a fabulous tasting and lunch on May 26 to mark the birthday, with vertical tastings of aged semillons and shirazes, shiraz mourvedre blends, botrytis semillopns and the "first-ever" Hunter tasting of barbera..

It was, as you would expect, a fun affair. 

For more details see www.margan.com.au