Six of Australia's best vineyard retreats

CHATEAU YERING, YARRA VALLEY

Take a step back to a far more gracious time at Chateau Yering, a heritage-listed Victorian mansion on over 120-hectares with English-themed gardens – but within walking distance to several Yarra cellar doors. There’s a country house-style ambiance, and an initial sense you should lower your voice and keep eyes to the ground, but the staff are very welcoming. There will be guests enjoying a quiet pot of tea but while the surroundings are old-world and a little grand, dinner in Eleonore’s restaurant, where chef Mathew Macartney has an Age Good Food Guide hat, is a thoroughly modern affair. Built in 1854 and a luxury hotel with a country house feel since 1997, Chateau Yering has just 32 suites – making it a true boutique experience. (03) 9237 3333. www.chateauyering.com.au.

MONA PAVILIONS, TASMANIA

Not only do the eight high-tech pavilions, which look like something from a science-fiction movie, offer the most luxurious vineyard accommodation in the Hobart region (and adult toys like double spa baths and heated lap pools), they are part of the MONA museum complex – where the Red Queen exhibition is showing. The Source restaurant, where French chef Philippe Leban handles the pans, is perfect for leisurely lunches and extravagant dinners overlooking the Moorilla vineyards and the Derwent River. Guests can also taste the Moorilla wines and Moo Brew beers – but many may prefer to just take in the stunning Tasmanian views or browse the eclectic artworks from the personal collection of owner David Walsh that decorate each pavilion. (03) 6277 9900. www.mona.net.au.

THE LOUISE, BAROSSA VALLEY

If it is position, position, position that floats your boat then this luxury retreat with sweeping views of the Barossa vines will be your choice over myriad options in the region. One of Australia's top boutique vineyard retreats boasts a comprehensive program of wine-related experiences available exclusively to its in-house guests but it is the warmth and enthusiasm of the staff for all things Barossa that set it apart. The suites feature king beds with crisp linen and all city comforts in the heart of the country. The outdoor showers are a nice touch on hot summer days. Also, Appellation chef Ryan Edwards hasn’t missed a beat since taking over from local legend Mark McNamara, offering superb nightly menus matched to rare local bottles. (08) 8562 2722. www.thelouise.com.au.

CAPE LODGE, MARGARET RIVER

You might well be in Stellenbosch or Franschhoek looking at this secluded Cape Dutch-style lodge from the outside - but the welcome is very Australian. This regular award-winner sits on its own vineyard within 20 hectares of manicured grounds on the edge of a small forest. It’s a haven from some of the bustling cellar doors nearby. Choose from suites, a two-bedroom self-contained cottage and a private residence. The on-site restaurant boasts a 14,000-bottle wine cellar and the lodge hosts regular cooking classes and culinary weekends. Ideal for couples looking to rekindle romance; and the sort of place where an afternoon snooze might be on the agenda. (08) 9755 6311. www.capelodge.com.au.

CASA LUNA, NORTH-EAST VICTORIA

Milawa and the King Valley offer a treasure trove of gourmet discoveries. This little gem at Myrrhee is deep in the country, fairly isolated to be honest, but features affordable, stylish luxury in just two queen and two king suites. With views over the Symphonia vineyards, this mini guesthouse is close to several cellar doors. Host Gwenda Canty serves sumptuous three-course dinners on request (and they are well worth requesting) and the breakfasts of free-range eggs, smoked bacon, vine-ripened tomatoes and home-made preserves are legendary. Perfect for couples looking to wind down with a glass of prosecco in front of an open fire. (03) 5729 7650. www.casaluna.com.au

SPICERS VINEYARDS ESTATE, HUNTER VALLEY

A laidback retreat in bushland and vineyard surroundings, Spicers is on the doorstep of the Hunter’s many wineries, cellar doors and golf courses and is known for its friendly service. Four new luxury spa suites make a total of 12 rooms (so you’ll never feel too crowded) and the newly built Spa Anise facility offers massage, beauty and therapeutic treatments if all that wine tasting becomes too much. An outdoor pool and spa are popular in summer, while dinner at Botanica Restaurant – a favourite with in-the-know Hunter locals - features mod Oz cuisine paired with a wine list that highlights local boutique offerings and some enticing imports. 1300 192 868. www.spicersgroup.com.au.

A stylish stay in New Zealand's adrenaline capital

The quality of a hotel - and particularly the welcome offered by its staff - can make or break a vacation or business trip. 

The Rees Hotel, one of Queenstown’s favourite luxury hostelries - is blessed with some of the most professional staff I have come across; a multinational, multilingual task force dedicated to making every guest feel at home. 

Whether you need local advice, or a lift into the downtown area because it is snowing in October, there is someone on hand to help - and the Rees's location is close to perfect for those who want peace and quiet while having the action close by. 

With dramatic views over Lake Wakatipu and the Remarkables, this five-star boutique hotel is just a short waterfront stroll away from Queenstown’s central precinct. The Rees has 60 hotel rooms and 90 apartments, all with private balconies. 

The hotel’s restaurant, True South Dining, offers gourmet cuisine, including an extensive wine cellar, and specialises in dishes based on local produce. The menu changes monthly to reflect ingredients that are seasonal. 

Think dishes like teriyaki-grilled mackerel, pickled beets, potato salad and wasabi; or scallops, crispy pigs head, pumpkin miso puree, pickled turnips and nam jim dressing - matched with local wine labels like Surveyor Thomson or Northburn Station.  

The Rees also has a spa treatment room, gymnasium, conference room, ski lockers, private jetty (just summon your own water taxi), mountain bikes, courtesy shuttle and wi-fi, along with the tiny Bordeau (meaning next to the water) wine lounge, which stocks local and imported French wines, including a wide range of Bordeaux vintages (Mouton-Rothschild or Lynch-Bages anyone?).

The hotel was recently awarded a TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence award, which is given only to establishments that consistently achieve outstanding traveller reviews on TripAdvisor.

All bedrooms feature super king-sized beds, start-of-the-art video systems, LCD TVs, free high-speed wi-fi, iPod docking stations, satellite TV channels, designer bathrooms with walk-in showers and specially designed furniture. 

General manager Mark Rose is also a part-owner of one of Queenstown's hippest new eateries; Sasso, which means stone in Italian and is located in historic McNeill’s cottage, sits just a few steps from the shores of Lake Wakatipu and executive chef Sal Grant and his team offer Italian-inspired cuisine that combines traditional and innovative elements.

An award-winning chef, Grant is keen to expose diners to new taste experiences including fresh burrata, an Italian cheese made from mozzarella and cream, which he char grills with pumpkin, thyme and balsamic vinegar. 

Dinner choices can vary from a simple pizza to a five-course feast matched with local wines. In winter, sample osso buco di cervo, local venison slowly braised in red wine and served on a bed of soft polenta with shaved Manchego. 

Sasso (below) is the creation of two local businessmen, Rose and David Matthews, who felt Queenstown was missing a chic modern Italian dining option. 

The historic stone cottage has undergone a $500,000 refurbishment which resulted in solid wood bar and marble counters sourced in Italy, along with crystal light fittings, while the state-of-the-art kitchen offers an open servery. There is a Mediterranean outdoor courtyard and open fire. The wine list focuses on local pinot noir – and a selection of Italian imports. 

So, two great options in  the undisputed outdoor capital of the southern hemisphere.

Whether you want to be hiking, mountain biking , kayaking, bungee jumping, paragliding, white water rafting, skiing, skydiving or jet boating, the New Zealand outdoor playground offers thrills aplenty. 

And, of course, the vineyards of Central Otago are right on the doorstep of a town that is party central at night time. The Central Otago wine region is home to 200 vineyards within a 1½ hour drive of Queenstown. 

Of these, 80 have cellar doors for tastings. Names to look out for include Felton Road, Mount Difficulty, Misha's Vineyard, Mount Edward, Gibbston Valley, Rippon, Surveyor Thomson, Chard Farm, Peregrine and Quartz Reef. 

The wineries are dotted throughout several sub-regions, each with their own special characteristics, including Bannockburn, Bendigo, Cromwell, Gibbston and Alexandra. A discovery lies around every corner. 

Sasso is at 14/16 Church Street, Queenstown. +64 3 409 0994. www.sasso.co.nz and the Rees Hotel and Apartments is at 377 Frankton Road, Queenstown. +64 3 450 1100. www.therees.co.nz.

Why some "hospitality" businesses are their own worst enemy

What really annoys Australians when they travel? Seat kickers, loud talkers and naughty children top the list according to a recent survey by www.cheapflights.com.au.

I'd add dismal airline food, rude airport security staff, incompetent car hire companies - but I'm rather grumpy when I travel. 

Screaming children was by far the most common complaint among Australian aircraft passengers, with just under half of all respondents saying it had affected a journey. Other top complaints included: being stuck on a delayed aircraft on the tarmac, stinky fellow passengers, broken entertainment systems and snoring seatmates. 

While the gripes from the 1,000+ respondents ranged from seat kicking to seat reclining, only 30 percent of those surveyed said they had actually confronted their fellow passengers. The rest suffer in silence. I am not one of them.

Asked "What is the most annoying thing a nearby traveller can do on your flight?" the responses were: Kick your seat - 22.72%, Let children misbehave - 16.22%, Talk loudly or incessantly - 15.02%, Recline their seat - 10.51%, Yank on your seat back - 6.3%, put feet on your arm rest or into your leg room - 5.81%, Bring smelly food aboard - 4.3%, Not waiting for those in rows ahead to exit first - 4%, Carry excessive hand luggage - 3.7%. 

My pet travel gripe, however, has nothing to do with flying. What makes me the angriest is travelling in Tasmania during any peak holiday period and finding so many "hospitality" businesses, dependent on tourism for much of their income - closed.

Read the Hobart Mercury and virtually every day there is a local small business person complaining how tough the business environment is. How hard it is to make a honest buck.

Maybe they blame kids in the mall for scaring away shoppers, or the lack of Christmas decorations, or the way council organizes car parking. You'd be convinced there is a statewide vendetta against small business. 

In fact, many of the problems that Tasmanian small businesses complain about are easily solved. For a start, they could open when they have customers ready and waiting to spend money.

Some examples. Very recently, when thousands of cruise ship passengers were wanting to explore the best of Hobart, many of the shops and cafes were closed. The reason: it was a public holiday.

Just today, a Monday, my small village was inundated with tourists. Yet three of the four eateries in town were closed. The one that was open made a killing - and turned dozens of people away. 

Of the other three eateries, one is closed until January 9 for annual holidays. the other for three days until after New Year's Day, the fourth, usually open on a Monday, who knows? They are just closed. 

Come a wet and windy Thursday in mid winter, all four will be open, competing for the business of a handful of customers. 

Now I know that small business people need a life, need to spend quality time with family and friends and often cannot afford to pay penalty rates. But to turn away business is plain crazy. Here's an idea. Why not open over the peak season, make some money (charging a Sunday or public holiday surcharge if necessary), and then close for a few weeks during the quiet winter months. Or quit complaining about how tough it is. 

It is a Tasmania-wide problem - and perhaps it extends to other states. When I flagged it on Twitter, I had responses from South Australians expressing amazement that so many cellar doors were closed; and from someone attending the sales in Hobart who could not find anywhere to buy a coffee - at the same time as The Taste of Tasmania festival was on down the road, the Sydney-Hobart yachts were arriving and every hotel room in town was full. 

Tasmanians have been told the tourism is the future for their beautiful state, but if they don't look after those tourists they will head elsewhere pretty damn smart. And then we'll be back to debating a pulp mill again. Oh, wait, we already are!

  

Discovering one of Tasmania's best-kept secrets

Perhaps because it is tucked away in sleepy New Norfolk, or maybe because it closed for three years after a family tragedy, delightful Woodbridge on the Derwent remains something of a well-kept secret even to Tasmanians. 

New Norfolk is just a 30-minute drive from Hobart and is surrounded by some of the best cellar doors in the state, as well as two distilleries, superb countryside and great fishing - but it remains off the radar for many Hobartians, even though it is a perfect weekend getaway destination. 

Heritage-listed Woodbridge on the Derwent, the only member of the Small Luxury Hotels group in Tasmania, is a beautifully restored Georgian mansion set in lovely gardens above the fast-flowing Derwent River (well-heeled guests sometimes arrive by seaplane, docking at the hotel's own pontoon). 

Built by convicts in 1825, Woodbridge was originally the home of the new colony's magistrate and is one of Australia's oldest surviving buildings. It takes its name from the first wooden bridge over the Derwent, built in 1934 and next door to the property.

Owners John and Laurelle Grimley bought the derelict property in 2003 and have done a magnificent refurbishment job. After a spell closed following a tragic car accident involving their son, they reopened Woodbridge on the Derwent 18 months ago. They are fonts of knowledge on all things local; and as this is Tasmania the staff are uniformly friendly and eager to please, if clearly a little rattled when almost all the guests from a full house arrive for breakfast at the same time.

The rooms vary in style but include all five-star accessories including Molton & Brown toiletries, flat-screen TVs, free wi-fi, iPod docks, extremely comfortable beds, modern bathrooms, in-room safes and mini bars with complimentary soft drinks. They are so quiet that it is hard to imagine there are other guests in residence. 

Guests are welcome to help themselves to port and sherry in one of the three drawing rooms and public areas are tastefully decorated with period pieces and individually sourced artworks. There are lovely gardens in which to while away an hour to two taking in the river views.

Dinner, on the night we stayed, comprised an amuse bouche of a spicy prawn bisque, followed by a delightful starter of spinach ricotta ravioli with cherry tomato and basil sauce (below).
Then came a choice of maple-glazed Tasmanian ocean trout on a leek and fennel pancake with asparagus, or rack of Tasmanian lamb with rosemary jus, hasselback potato and seasonal greens. The trout was the stronger dish, but both were respectable. 

There were two dessert choices with a pannacotta with berries the standout - and a small but well though-out wine list featuring Derwent names including Stefano Lubiana, Derwent Estate, Laurel Bank and Kinvarra, as well as several other boutique Tasmanian producers. A Pooley 2013 Riesling was very reasonably priced at $40.  

Things are not perfect, however. I felt the dinner menu could do with at least a third choice of mains, even if just a salad, and while breakfast features delicious home-made yoghurts, stewed fruits and local salmon it was disappointing to see packet cereals along with industrial bread and cheese. It would be nice, too, if the music in the restaurant was changed more often.

These, however, are very minor quibbles. For a small hotel (just eight rooms) everything works very well and the Grimleys are happy to act as concierges, booking excursions and tastings, even a seaplane jaunt should your budget stretch that far. 

There is a bit of a boozy theme, too, with several featured packages involving tastings at nearby Redlands Estate, including dinner, bed and breakfast, a 45-minute whisky tour/tasting, a $30 credit for massages and full use of all facilities including bikes, kayaks, and the sauna/hot tub and mini-gym facility. This package starts from $625 a night for a double.

Dinner, bed and breakfast packages, including a massage credit and use of all facilities starts from $590 per night for two people.

Local attractions include the several cellar doors, the Redlands and Nant distilleries, Two Metre Tall with its home-brewed beers and ciders, the Agrarian Kitchen cooking school, the Sally Wise cookery school, as well as fly fishing, bushwalking and the famous Salmon Ponds. 

Nearby you'll find the Mount Field National Park and the Styx Valley, while New Norfolk itself is the third-oldest town in Australia and is known for its old buildings and antique stores. 

The celebrated MONA museum is just a 20-minute drive away making this an excellent base for exploring the Hobart region but many guests are happy to cocoon themselves for a day or two enjoying the gardens, riverfront promenade with its resident platypus, and the hotel's focus on local food and wine. 

Woodbridge on the Derwent, 6 Bridge Street, New Norfolk, Tasmania 7140. Phone (03) 6261 5566. Email: info@woodbridgenn.com.au. Website: www.woodbridgenn.com.au.  
  

Bali's best new romantic getaway

Sun-drenched Bali has something to offer for all ages so no wonder it is a perennial favourite with holidaymakers from around the world. 

The Indonesian resort island has fine stretches of sand, river gorges, ancient temples, adventure sports, luxury lodges, affordable spas and friendly people, top-notch golf courses, exotic food and resorts to suit all budgets. 

For those looking for a little romance and a lot of luxury, the recently refurbished and re-branded M Gallery Amarterra Villas take a lot of beating. Other highlights include a free gym, welcome drink and cool towel on arrival, daily mineral water, fruit basket, free mini bar and snacks, whirlpool Jacuzzis and the lavish main swimming pool.

Amarterra Villas, small and offering personalised service, are perfect for visitors who want to be close to the action in the Nusa Dua tourism precinct but who cherish peace and quiet in their own private compound, each of which comes with a private courtyard, lush gardens, day beds and lap pools that are actually long enough for you to do laps (and private enough to swim nude, should you so choose. 

The resort comprises an idyllic collection of 39 luxury one-, two- and three-bedroom villas in an exclusive gated enclave a short walk from the beach (where the resort has its own beach club). You don't have to walk, of course; staff will be happy to ferry you there and back on one of the resort's golf buggies. 

Opened last year, the resort's point of difference are its serenity and the quality of the staff, who are omnipresent but never intrusive.  

The villas are beautifully appointed with Balinese themes but 21^st-century technology including free wi-fi, cable TV and DVD players.  

The tranquil compound is within walking distance of the Bali Collection shopping precinct and several restaurants, while the Bali National golf course is just a short drive away. 

The villas boast luxurious en-suite bathrooms with separate open-air showers, well-equipped kitchens, mini bars with free snacks and soft drinks, state-of-the-art entertainment systems, and open-air lounges and dining areas.

The use of local materials, quality interior fitting and selected Indonesian artifacts ensure a modern version of the Balinese kampung experience, while on-site Terra Terrace restaurant offers fusion food (and some rather confused combinations) and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. That said, enjoying a private romantic dinner by your own pool is a real pleasure. 

The plush Amarterra Spa follows traditional Dharma rituals and offers Balinese 'Urut' Massage, a deep-tissue massage known for its ability to accelerate healing.

Treatments range from massages and head messages to aromatherapy baths, face accupoint treatments, mud therapy and body exfoliation (I tried the massage, but passed on the exfoliation) - and the therapists are uniformly charming. 

Overall, this is a brilliant place to relax and unwind for a few days. You are even cocooned from much of the construction noise on the Nusa Dua beachfront. One bedroom villas start from around $445 and several packages are available. 

Amarterra Villas, Nusa Dua, Bali. +62 361 776400. www.amarterravilla.com.

Raise a glass to this Sydney-Hobart yacht race entry

This post is a little random, but it is, at least, seasonal, so I hope you find it interesting in this time of good cheer.

While the wine connections of Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race favourite and multiple winner Wild Oats are well known, there is also a contestant with a whisky link to cheer for.

Old Pulteney distillery has a yacht racing in the Clipper Round the World Yacht Race, which is also competing in the Sydney to Hobart. 

And there is a real, albeit tenuous, connection - not merely sponsorship guff. Pulteney distillery at windswept Wick is one of the most northerly in Scotland and whisky connoisseurs have been known to say they can detect a faint hint of the sea in their glass of 12-year-aged single malt.

Known as the ‘Maritime Malt,’ Old Pulteney distillery dates back to 1826 and won the title of ‘World Whisky of the Year’ for 2012 in Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible – one of the industry’s highest accolades. 

Dutchman Patrick van der Zijden is the skipper and his crew includes sailors from Peru, Switzerland, Brazil, Hungary, Canada, the Us and Wales - and even a couple of Scots. The Cruising Yacht Club of Australia is predicting a fleet of around 94 yachts for the 628-nautical mile classic, which starts at 1pm on Boxing Day. 

The Old Pulteney is one of a fleet of 12 super yachts competing in the Clipper Round the World race, which has taken in Brest, France, Rio de Janeiro, Cape Town and Australia with stops still to come in Singapore, Qingdao, San Francisco, Panama, Jamaica, New York, Londonderry and, finally, London in July 2014.

Lara Gardner, Old Pulteney brand manager at island2island beverage company (Old Pulteney's Australian distributor) says, no doubt tongue in cheek: “As the ‘Maritime Malt’, it seems only fitting to raise a glass of Old Pulteney as the crews compete in the Sydney to Hobart race."

I know less than nothing about whisky, but thought Old Pulteney tasted delicious. My verdict was confirmed when a good Scottish friend attempted to take off with my bottle of Christmas Eve, saying "How did you know that is my favourite whisky?"

So here's to the brave (and crazy) in the yacht race fleet.