Tough times for global wine and spirits giant

Times are tough in the drinks business right around the world. 

Global wine and spirits giant Moët Hennessy will cut more than 10% of its global workforce as part of a major restructuring effort in a bid to counter falling demand and rising costs, the Financial Times reported in London..

The newspaper says the wine and spirits arm of luxury giant LVMH currently employs around 9,400 people. Chief executive Jean-Jacques Guiony told staff earlier this month that an estimated 1,200 roles would be eliminated, bringing the division back to its 2019 staffing levels.

Revenues at Paris-based Moët Hennessy have fallen to 2019 levels, Guiony said, yet operating costs have jumped 35% over the same period. 

“This was an organisation that was built for a much larger size of business,” he said in an internal video. 

“People realise … that this [rebuilding sales] is not going to happen anytime soon.”

The cuts will largely be achieved through natural attrition and by reassigning staff to other areas of the business. Moët Hennessy has already implemented a hiring freeze. 

Deputy CEO Alexandre Arnault, who joined the division alongside Guiony in February, told staff that this crisis was unusual in scope. 

“Usually at LVMH when wines and spirits are not going well, fashion is doing well or some [other part of the business] is performing differently. Right now things are not going extremely well,” he said.

In a statement, a Moët Hennessy spokesperson confirmed the planned cuts. 

“While Moët Hennessy’s business has returned to its 2019 level, Moët Hennessy announced its intention to adjust its organisation and gradually return to its 2019 staffing levels, primarily by managing its natural turnover and not filling vacant positions,” it said.

Guiony reassured staff that the current downturn was part of a cycle. 

“Things are bad but they will become better,” he said, though he warned that US tariffs added another layer of uncertainty to the company’s outlook.

The company's wine and spirit brands include Krug, Hennessy, Dom Perignon, Moët et Chandon, Chateau Cheval Blanc, Ardbeg, Belvedere Vodka, Chateau d'Yquem, Ruinart and Cloudy Bay and Glenmorangie.

Now Eurostar will have a rival on cross-Channel rail routes

Virgin Trains, part of Sir Richard Branson’s Virgin Group is set to begin operating passenger trains to mainland Europe through the Channel Tunnel following an announcement by the UK rail regulator. 

Virgin Trains has also announced the acquisition of a fleet of high-speed trains as it gears up to challenge Eurostar, which has held a monopoly on routes to Europe since 1994.

Virgin Trains said this week that there are “no more major hurdles to overcome” before it can begin operating. 

It has acquired a fleet of 13 high-speed trains for future services from London through the Channel Tunnel to Paris, Brussels and onwards to Frankfurt, starting in late 2027.

Thanks to a financial package negotiated with BlackRock, Virgin has purchased the 330 kmh trains from Germany’s Deutsche Bahn. 

The Siemens-built 406 series trains were most recently in service between Frankfurt, Brussels and Amsterdam. Each train is composed of eight carriages and seats 425 passengers, news portal Travel Mole reports.

“The opportunity to purchase these trains now was an offer too good to turn down," Branson told British media. 

"With no need to wait for new trains to be built, we can bring forward our plans for new services through the Channel Tunnel that customers have been demanding. 

"Anyone who has taken one of these trains has been enchanted by their reliability and comfort.”

Virgin Trains will start its services in December 2027, with seven return trips planned each day from 
London to Paris, and six a day to Brussels. Two of the Brussels services will continue to Germany. 

That will make Virgin the first company to offer direct UK-Germany services.

Virgin Trains head of European Operations Jean-Eric Suiscon said “We are happy to have 
found a way to adapt services in Germany for Channel Tunnel services."

Discover an eight-day rail journey created for gourmets

If you enjoy long-distance rail travel then this one might be for you.

Golden Eagle Luxury Trains will soon welcome guests on their inaugural Paris to Istanbul voyage with four departure dates for 2025 in each direction.

The eight-day odyssey traverses seven countries on the Danube Express train.

With a focus on food and wine, the tour will be hosted by James Masterson, the product development manager and the grandson of Golden Eagle founder, Tim Littler.

Off-train excursions for this new voyage include:

# In the Champagne region, visiting the renowned J.Lassalle Champagne house for a private tour and tasting
# An exclusive private concert of classical masterpieces by the Vienna Supreme Orchestra (whoever they are).
# A private visit to Slovenia's Postojna Caves and an underground train featuring a unique musical performance inside the hallowed Crypt of the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral in Sofia
# A dessert masterclass
# An eight-course gala dinner onboard the train.

"I grew up in the world of luxury private trains, travelling on our flagship train since I was 13 and working as a waiter onboard from the age of 16.," says Masterson.

"I have always harboured a vision to elevate the rail travel experience to even greater heights. This vision now becomes reality with the launch of the Paris to Istanbul/Istanbul to Paris route from May.

"This meticulously curated journey represents the culmination of years of dedication to exceeding guest expectations. I invite guests to join us for a truly memorable experience, seeing Europe in a different way from our hotel-on-wheels."

Golden Eagle packages are fully inclusive with private en suite rail accommodation, all meals and drinks, personal cabin attendant service, fully guided off-train excursions, all gratuities and transfers, plus premium hotels pre and post rail tour and a UK medical doctor on board.

Visit https://www.goldeneagleluxurytrains.com/

First we take Paris, then we take Berlin

 

Travelling by train is often the best choice in Europe - and two of the continent's great capitals are now linked by a direct high-speed train connection. 

Germany’s Deutsche Bahn and France's SNCF introduced a daytime InterCity Express (ICE) service between Paris and Berlin last month and are planning to add a second route between the two capitals in 2026.

Taking advantage of its new fleet of 322 kph ICE3neo trains, the once-a-day service takes around eight hours in each direction, also serving Strasbourg, Karlsruhe and Frankfurt on its 878km trip.

The trains link Paris Gare de l'Est with Berlin Hauptbahnhof. 

Fares start from around $100 Aus and each train has capacity for 444 passengers, of which 111 are in first class.

The new high-speed ICE service is the first direct daytime train between Paris and Berlin since the 1990s and complements the Nightjet sleeper service introduced in 2023.

Unfortunately, speeds on some section are reduced with trains having to use lower speed lines, but the service is expected to prove popular with both business and leisure travellers. 

The price of a Paris-Berlin ticket varies depends on many parameters such as whether you have a discount card or an SNCF subscription, the dates of the journey and the railway company.

For more details see https://www.sncf-connect.com/train/trajet/paris/berlin

A new way from the UK to Paris

So you are in the UK but fancy a few days in Paris?

If you don't want to travel from the busy London airports, or catch the train (my preference), easyJet has announced its eighth route from Southampton Airport (above), on the south coast.

New twice-weekly Paris flights will take off from Southampton from March 31, 2025, news portal Travel Mole reports.

The Paris Orly flights will run on Monday and Fridays with easyJet planning up to 21 weekly departures to various from Southampton during peak summer 2025.

This represents a 31% increase compared to summer 2024.

Paris Orly, the French capital's second airport, is 25 minutes by public transport to central Paris by train, or the Line 14 Metro.

Frequent daily shuttle buses connect Paris Orly directly to Euro Disney.

Tour operator easyJet Holidays is also offering Paris city break packages.

All easyJet holidays city breaks include flights and hotel. See https://www.easyjet.com/en/holidays/france/paris

Chris Tibbett, aviation firector at AGS Airports, said: “Paris is a well-loved destination for the central south region, and we’re thrilled to see easyJet launch this direct service to Paris Orly.”

Since easyJet expanded from its seasonal Geneva service 12 months ago, the airline has flown over 173,000 passengers to and from Southampton.

Enjoy Paris like a local - and on a budget

Looking to visit Paris as a tourist? 

Keen to spend your money on food, drinks and experiences rather than accommodation?

How about living like a Parisian for a week or two, sleeping in the suburbs and commuting to the various attractions each day?

If you've tried to book a hotel room near the Champs Elysees, the Marais, or on the rue de Rivoli, you will be aware just how expensive even a small hotel room can cost in the French capital, even post Olympics.

So how about staying further out - and having more to spend?

Friends of mine have just launched an affordable option to hotels on Airbnb and Booking.com - a studio on the eastern edge of Paris, adjacent to where they live.

You'll find it if you search for "Paris with added Zen".

It is described as a comfy spot for up to up to four people with a pricing algorithm that makes its rates competitive.

The studio is located in Bry-sur-Marne, which is 13 km from Paris-Gare-de-Lyon. It comes with garden views (I'm told you can spot the Eiffel Tower in the distance), free wifi and free private parking should you need it.

The studio is 14km from Opéra Bastille and 15km from Notre Dame Cathedral.



The air-conditioned, non-smoking apartment consists of one bedroom, a living room, a fully equipped kitchenette with a microwave and a coffee machine,

The bathroom comes with a shower and bathrobes and towels and bed linen are included.

There are two train lines - RER E and A - within walking distance as well as the recently extended metro 11.

I'm told it takes 20-25 minutes to the city, with one change. 

If you get your dates right you’ll pay under 100 bucks Australian a night. 

Here's the link. Tell Chris that Winsor sent you. https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1204176911229262789?source_impression_id=p3_1722744039_P3k6b-hoytZR4czs 

From Adelaide to Paris in 10 seconds

Walk through a doorway in an Adelaide laneway and you are instantly transported from South Australia to a Paris-style bar a vins.

I discovered La Buvette last week - a welcoming cross between Willi's and the Baron Rouge. 

There is the blackboard menu of mainly French wines by the glass; all reasonably priced. 

There is a food  menu featuring  classics like fresh oysters with mignonette; escargots a l'Alsacienne and boeuf bourguinon.

And there is an un mistakeable French joie de vivre.

Apparently it has been on Gresham St for years, with wine industry figure John Retsas a partner. But somehow it had passed me by. My bad. 

I popped in for a glass of Chablis. Next time I'll spend the evening. Maybe start with a Suze Tonic, or pastis and take it from there. 

There is a definite Euro-chic ambience here and seriously knowledgeable staff. 

You can even enjoy a drink on the sidewalk on warmer days. 

La Buvette is open Tuesday-Saturday. 

For more details see https://www.labuvettedrinkery.com.au/

Plane speaking: Qantas backing Australian Olympians

 

Qantas has thrown support behind the Australian Olympic and Paralympic Teams by unveiling a special ‘GO AUSTRALIA’ message on either side of one of its Boeing 787 Dreamliners.

The Australian flag carrier has commissioned the specially created graphic that aims to showcase Australian pride on the international stage ahead of the 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games in Paris.

Qantas Group CEO Vanessa Hudson said Qantas and the Australian Olympic team have more than 70 years of shared history.

“Qantas has a long and proud history of supporting the Australian Olympic and Paralympic teams, from first flying Olympic athletes to the London Games in 1948 to our engineers designing custom cushions and support devices for our Australian Paralympians to travel comfortably on long-haul sectors,” she said.

“We are so proud to support our Australian athletes and supporters to get to the Games once again and hope our special cheer squad 787 will help spur on our teams and supporters to put on a great show in Paris.”

Australian Olympic Team Chef de Mission for Paris 2024 Anna Meares welcomed Qantas’ ongoing support for Australian athletes.

“Qantas has been supporting Australian Olympic dreams for generations,” Meares said.

“We are thrilled Qantas will be proudly sharing their support of Australian Olympians on their 787 Dreamliner.

“As an Olympian, flying on that Qantas plane home from a Games, to meet friends and family in the Qantas hangar welcome home, is such a special memory. I’m looking forward to our 2024 Olympic team making their own Qantas memories on their journey to and from the Paris Games.”

In addition to unveiling its team support, Qantas is preparing to launch its new Perth to Paris route next month and this weekend will resume its direct flights from Perth to Rome for the third year running.

It is the only airline to offer direct flights between Australia and continental Europe.

Strike threats loom as Paris gets ready for Olympics

As athletes around the world gear up for the 2024 Paris Olympic Games, French transport workers are preparing for a series of strikes.

CGT-RATP union members have a strike notice in place until September 9 that could hit the Ile-de-France bus and metro network - including during the Olympics.

The French like nothing more than a good grève, and a manifestation (march) or two.

The French Senate adopted a bill on April 9 to allow the state to ban transport strikes for set periods each year to avoid disruption during major events like the Games.

It also calls for more advance warning of strikes and increased minimum service obligations.

But the bill faces opposition and must be adopted by the French National Assembly before it becomes law.

Workers at the state-owned public transport company say they are planning to walk out over a pay dispute.

Air traffic controllers are also unhappy, but called off a planned strike last Thursday following a breakdown in salary negotiations and the planned overhaul of France’s air traffic control system.

The air traffic union has said members will strike over a busy May weekend period if demands are not met.

Wine menu prices reflect greed, says leading restaurateur

It is not just in Australia that restaurants are under fire for the massive mark-ups of their wine prices. 

“[Some] restaurants charge crazy prices for wines” says one leading French restaurateur, responding to similar criticism.

Parisian restaurant operator Franck Astruc has weighed in on behalf of consumers, the Vitisphere website reported.

Astruc operates the Café des Ternes brasserie, the Café des Beaux-Arts in central Paris, and the Bistrot Faubourg in La Défense.

"When you buy wines for your restaurant and you see the prices displayed by others, you quickly see that it no longer makes any sense," Astruc says. 

"The vast majority of restaurants charge crazy prices for wines, which consumers cannot afford. 

"It is understandable to put a coefficient of 3 on the price of a bottle purchased below €40, but it is not possible above €50. Doubling the price with VAT included is acceptable, it allows a good margin. 

"But let's not go too far. And the accountants can say whatever they want so that I put in more, with this margin we are already making money. But we don't kill customers. Without going below the price of wine merchants."

Many restaurants see wine as a way of making up for losses they make on food. 

"By buying at €100 and selling at €200 we make money even though we have done nothing," says Astruc. 

"We opened and put a bottle on the table with glasses. We didn't get in the tractor to move the earth, we didn't face hail, we didn't have the problems with the vines.. 

"Of course Burgundy wines have increased their prices a lot. 

"Yes it’s expensive, but the winegrowers do 100% of the work. If they put in a 10% increase, we pass it on, so let's not complain too much and think about reducing our margins. 

"The winegrowers sell us at €100 a bottle, but some restaurants put it at €400. They are the ones who are killing the business. We have to look at the long term. 

"My customers buy more wine and send other customers as we are reasonable on prices. I prefer to have a margin that gains sales, rather than a coefficient that leads to a reduction of consumption.

"Restaurants are not obliged to sell wines at stratospheric prices. With an affordable price, the consumer will not buy one bottle, but two."

Image: Daniel Rivera, Scop.io  

Guess what happens when you mix sport, politics and money?

Mix politics, sport and money and the result is unlikely to be a good one.

The International Olympic Committee this week named international beverage giant AB InBev as a worldwide partner until 2028, following news that Asahi had pulled out of its Paris sponsorship deal due to Russia’s presence at the 2024 Games.

Multinational brewer AB InBev, full name Anheuser-Busch InBev SA/NV and the largest brewer in the world, revealed that its alcohol-free Corona Cero will be the official beer of the Olympics through the Olympic and Paralympic Games LA 2028.

The company's brands include Budweiser, Corona and Stella Artois.

The deal means poor sports lovers are going to lumbered with an no-alcohol beer.

The agreement also includes marketing rights for the International Paralympic Committee (IPC) and the Paralympic Games through the IOC-IPC long-term collaboration agreement, website The Drinks Business reported.

Asahi announced last month that it would be pulling its sponsorship of the Paris Games.

Asahi brand Pilsner Urquell, which is also the official partner of the Czech Olympic Committee, withdrew from all communications and sponsorship material related to the 2024 Olympics, reportedly due to the IOC deciding to allow Russian and Belarusian athletes to compete in the event.

Asahi released a statement saying “Pilsner Urquell does not want to support the Olympic Games in Paris under current conditions. It will send money to Czech athletes”.

AB Inbev CEO Michel Doukeris said: “Beer is the beverage of moderation and choice, and so it’s fitting to lead with Corona Cero, for this occasion.”

Moderation and choice? Mr Doukeris is clearly a master of spin and bulldust.

French law prohibits the sale or distribution of alcohol in stadiums, and the organisers of the Paris Olympics have not applied for an exemption. Alcoholic drinks can, however, be served in VIP areas.

How very IOC. One rule for the plebs, one rule for sponsors and high flyers.

# The writer has been known to drink beer and is a former consultant to the IOC   

What are the best cities for foodies? One viewpoint

Melbourne and Sydney both like to consider themselves international centres of gastronomy, but one recent global survey finds they do not rate.

London? Yes. New York? Yes. Paris? Yes.

A recent data study finds London, New York, Paris, Tokyo, Dubai, and Barcelona lead the index, offering both high quality and diversity of food experiences, according to a new ratings system from Holidu, a holiday rental portal.

Holidu commissioned a study to explore the richness of culinary landscapes in 75 cities worldwide that were selected based on their strong presence in multiple rating directories, acknowledging both renowned food hubs and emerging gastronomic destinations.

For travellers seeking cuisine diversity, London (100-100), New York (92.5-100) and Paris (91.5-100) are the best destinations. Dubious, I know, but worth discussing. 

Bollocks, but fun. 

Your foodie experiences (based on activity and visual experience indexes) will be the best in Tokyo (100-100), Barcelona, Spain (99.8-100), and Dubai (99.1-100). OK. Even more dubious.

The city with the most Michelin starred restaurants is Tokyo, with 282, followed by Paris with 163, and Kyoto with 133, the report says.

The index essentially attempts to compare a ceviche in Lima to a salt beef bagel in New York. Which is, of course, impossible. 

“Whether you’ve always dreamed of trying monjayaki on a hidden street of Tokyo or dining on machboos at a Bedouin feast in the Dubai desert, this study is the ultimate foodie bucket list,” says Sarah Siddle, senior PR manager at Holidu.

“Every delicious destination in this index can offer inspiration to food industry professionals such as ourselves, as well as burgeoning chefs, gastronomes and globetrotters.”

View the complete food city destination index here: https://www.holidu.co.uk/magazine/food-city-destination-index

Image: Borough Market in London. Winsor Dobbin 

Thai-based hotel group spreads its wings

The Thailand-based hotel group Minor Hotels is developing into a into a major international force.

Minor Hotels is an international hotel owner, operator, and investor currently with more than 540 hotels in operation in 56 countries under brands including Anantara, Avani, Oaks, Tivoli, NH Collection and NH Hotels.

Minor Hotels this week announced its arrival in the French capital with plans for a trio of four-star Paris hotels.

The group will launch the properties under its NH Hotels and NH Collection brands.

The hotels will be with the 207-key NH Paris Gare de l’Est (above) and the 103-key NH Opéra Paris Faubourg.

The third property has 80 rooms and will open as NH Paris Champs-Elysées. It will then be launched in 2025 as an NH Collection property following a renovation.

“We believe this is an amazing opportunity to grow with two of our brands in the second most-visited city in the world and home to the 2024 Olympics,” said Dillip Rajakarier, CEO of Minor Hotels.

The three Paris hotels will join Minor Hotels’ six properties across France in Marseille, Lyon, Toulouse and Nice.

Outside France, other recent openings from NH brands include NH Collection Milano CityLife in Italy, and NH Collection Frankfurt Spin Tower in Germany.

"Our team has been searching for the right opportunities in this key market for some time, so we are pleased to announce that, together with Swiss Life AM, Minor Hotels will arrive in Paris not with one but with three hotels," said Rajakarier.

Qantas adds Paris flights for summer 2024

Qantas is adding another direct service between Australia and Europe with the launch of a new route between Perth and Paris, just in time for the 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games and European summer.

Following the success of the national carrier’s direct flights from Perth to London and Rome, the new year-round route will see Qantas operate to the French capital for the first time in nearly two decades, cutting around three hours off the current fastest travel time from Perth to Paris.

From July 12, 2024, the 17-hour Perth-Paris flights will initially operate four days per week during the peak European summer using the airline’s Boeing 787 Dreamliner aircraft. Services will reduce to three per week from mid-August 2024.

Qantas Group CEO Vanessa Hudson said the airline was thrilled to put Paris back on the Qantas map with a direct link for Australians to the French capital for the first time.

“This route has been on our wish list for a while and we think customers will be as pleased as we are to see it go on sale today,” Hudson said.

“Our direct flights to London and Rome have been hugely popular and Paris is the next most-requested destination, so we know the demand for this service will be strong as well.

“Some of the first customers on these flights will be Australian athletes heading to Paris to compete at the 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games.

“We’re the only airline offering these direct flights rather than going through a mid-point because the key market we serve is Australia. Our in-flight service is designed with long-haul travel in mind.

“The schedule we’ve announced today will add more than 75,000 seats between Australia and Europe each year and we’ll be working with Tourism WA to help make the most of the opportunity to bring tourists here, knowing that direct flights are a big factor in people deciding where to travel.”

The new flights will operate through Qantas’ existing terminal at Perth Airport (Terminal 3), which will allow seamless connections to other domestic destinations in Australia.

Western Australian Premier Roger Cook said: 
“Securing new direct aviation services like this is absolutely vital to drive travellers to Western Australia, inject visitor spend into our economy and create jobs in the tourism and hospitality industries.”

The Paris service will also offer connections to more than 70 destinations across Europe, including Barcelona, Munich, Frankfurt and Athens, and 12 destinations within France through Qantas’ network of partners.

A “circle fare” also allows Qantas customers to fly into Paris and return to Australia from London or Rome on the one ticket.

Fares are on sale now starting from $1,899 from Perth via qantas.com and through travel agents.

Michelin-starred chef brings his skills to Sydney for two meals

Alan Geaam is not your average Michelin-starred chef.

Born in Liberia to a Lebanese family, he grew up in Lebanon and was penniless when he moved to France at the age of 20, sometimes sleeping rough. 

He started in the restaurant industry as a dishwasher, but self-taught Geaam has in recent years helped lift the global profile of Lebanese flavours.

And now he is heading for Sydney for a guest stint at acclaimed AALIA restaurant in Martin Place, alongside executive chef Paul Farag.

For just two nights: October 24-25, the duo aims to present Middle Eastern food in a unique style.

Geaad is the only Lebanese chef to earn a Michelin star in Paris with his eatery in rue Lauriston in the 16th arrondisement - just a couple of blocks from where we used to live.

His culinary style is described as "Lebanese heritage dishes in a sophisticated French style".

A sneak peek at the proposed menu reveals dishes like hummus cornet with trout roe and nuts; lobster with freekeh and arak and sweet brik pastry baklava with cashew ice cream and preserved quince.

"I am so excited to delve into Sydney's fresh and local ingredients to bring a creative, beautiful, and delicious menu to life with chef Paul and his team," says Geaam. "I am beyond excited to give Australian diners the best possible experience."

To complement the menu, Head Sommelier Eleonore Wulf has curated two wine pairings and one non-alcoholic pairing for the evenings, showcasing a selection of Lebanese wines.

The Guide Michelin describes Geaam's food as featuring "original recipes [that] skilfully combine France’s rich heritage with touches from Lebanon in a true mixing of cultures".

He has also set up a number of casual eateries in the city’s 3rd arrondisement - Qasti Bistro, Qasti Shawarma and Grill, and Saj, la Galette Libanaise - as well as a small food store, Le Doukane, and a recent outpost in Marseille.

Tickets are priced from $220 per person. Visit www.aaliarestaurant.com/alan-geaam.

France puts out the welcome mat for rugby fans

It might just be one of the longest major sports events ever held.

The Tour de France and the Olympic Games games stretch over three weeks; the World Cup soccer tournament extends well over a month.

But this year's Rugby World Cup in France will run for seven weeks from September 8 to October 28.

There will be 48 matches featuring 20 national teams in France.

This will be the10th in a tournament series played every four years since 1987. I've been lucky enough to attend four of them: the opening event in New Zealand/Australia, in South Africa, in the British Isles and France, and in Australia.

While Paris will be the main stage - hosting the opener between France and the New Zealand All Blacks and the final - nine other cities will also host games.

 

During the almost six years I lived in France I visited seven of the host cities. Sorry Toulouse and St Etienne.

Here are my brief thoughts on the cities rugby fans will be descending upon.

Paris will be in the spotlight and is always a city of surprises and joy. The opening will be played at the Stade de France (top image), the largest stadium in the country.

The 80,000-seat arena will also host the two semi-finals and the third-place playoff.

Lyon, Marseille, Nice, Bordeaux, Nantes, Toulouse, Lille-Villeneuve d’Asq and St Etienne are also in the host line-up.

Marseille’s Orange Vélodrome is usually the home of football team Olympique Marseille. 

Be careful where you go at night in Marseille. The port city is my least favourite destination in France and in my experiience the locals the least welcoming.

In contrast, a French city that screams art and culture, is Bordeaux, with over 350 UNESCO-listed buildings in its historic centre. Wine lovers will want to explore the vineyards and visit the Cité du Vin wine museum on the banks of the Garonne. Dine at quirky La Tupina if you get the chance.

Toulouse, called  the ‘Ville Rose’ (Pink City) is known for its aerospace industry and is rugby heartland. Try the local sausages.  

Lyon is the gourmet capital of France, a delightful city with narrow streets and secret passageways, hidden staircases and stylish courtyards. Head to one of its ‘bouchons’ (traditional restaurants) for a casual gastronomic experience.

Lille's Pierre-Mauroy stadium in the suburb of Villeneuve d’Asq is an unlikely venue - football is king in the his region of France. Visit LaM (the Museum of Modern Art, Contemporary Art and Art Brut) set in large park full of sculptures.

Nice, surprisingly chosen ahead of rugby-crazy Toulon, is home to many of the highlights of the Côte d’Azur. Visit the local markets and walk the Promenade des Anglais.

In Nantes, the Beaujoire stadium is best known for its football team than rugby. Visit the ‘Machines de l’Ile’ site: former shipyards where you can climb aboard a giant carousel of extraordinary sea creatures. And have a seafood meal at La Cigale - one of my personal favourite restaurants.

St Etienne is another city much better know for football than rugby. It is the gateway to the Auvergne, with its gentle sloping mountains, dormant volcanoes and beautiful countryside.

See https://www.france.fr/fr and https://www.rugbyworldcup.com/2023/matches

Paris: A tale of two cities

Australians have been officially warned about travel to France, and Paris in particular.

One of the world's most beautiful cities is in crisis. But that comes as no surprise.

In the several years I spent living in Paris, I became used to regular strikes and demonstrations, while the grèves and manifestations were often annoying they were rarely threatening.

This time things are different - a large underclass from the banlieux has had enough of prejudice, racism and victimisation.

As many visitors to Paris will be aware; there are two very different sides to Paris. 

Inside the Peripherique, the ring road that encircles the city, life is good for a well-off, largely white and privileged community.

Outside the Peripherique is different world - a consequence of France's failed colonial policies.

In high-rise apartments in suburbs like Clichy, Bondy and Sarcelles (above), or Lyon Villeurbanne and Vaulx-en-Velin in Lyon, and some northern arrondissements of Marseille, are populated by the children and grandchildren of waves of post-war immigrants from Algeria and Morocco - and increasingly from sub-Saharan Africa.

These often second- and third-generation French people are frequently looked down upon, find it hard to find any work other than menial labour, and are often hassled by the police should they venture outside their suburban near ghettoes to the city.

The latest unrest was sparked by the death of a 17-year-old delivery driver in the suburb of Nanterre - by a police officer who now faces manslaughter (why not murder?) charges.

It lit a powderkeg.

Several people have died or sustained injuries at the hands of French police in recent years - nearly all of them from black or Maghreb backgrounds.

Minority groups and immigrants across France have long felt marginalized and discriminated against by the state - and the police. I have seen a person of North African descent shooed away from an upmarket shop. And young black people stopped and searched by police for no apparent reason.

“These young people rioting have watched their parents, their older siblings be discriminated against time and time again, and they’ve had enough,” Naima Iratni, president of Maison d’Algérie, a Paris-based non-profit that promotes cooperation between youths in France and Algeria, told the Christian Science Monitor newspaper.

“This generation - they’re 14 to 18 years old - is saying: ‘Stop.’ They will not accept it anymore.”

In a country where racism is endemic, and unemployment is rife, the riots are an appeal for more dignity. The chances of success, unfortunately, are slim.

So travellers should certainly be careful where they wander.

The Australian Government's SmartTraveller site is warning: "Exercise a high degree of caution in France due to the threat of terrorism."

It adds: "Be particularly vigilant at night and avoid all demonstrations and areas with significant police activity. Curfews have been introduced in some cities. Public transport may be restricted or cancelled. The situation may change at short notice. Monitor the media and official sources for updates.

"Violent attacks against tourists can occur, especially late at night in tourist areas. Robbery and muggings are common on trains to/from Paris airports. Conceal your valuables. Don't walk in quiet or poorly lit streets at night."

So please be careful out there.

   

Paris Olympics to be alcohol free; unless you are a VIP

Rich and well-connected sports fans will be able to enjoy Champagne and other alcoholic drinks while watching events at next year's Paris Olympic Games.

Ordinary ticket holders in the stadia will not be so lucky.

In a stunning piece of hypocrisy, the IOC and local organisers decided there would be one rule for VIPs and sponsors, and another for the plebs.

French law bans the sale of alcohol in stadiums to the general public, but allows for exemptions to a limited number of events per year. So VIP guests in stadium hospitality areas will be allowed to quaff alcoholic drinks to their hearts' content. 

Ordinary fans will have to make do with soft drinks and water after organisers decided not to seek an exemption to the law. 

Under Evin’s law, in place since 1991, alcohol is banned from sale to the general public inside stadiums in France, and Games organisers had not sought an exemption, a Paris 2024 spokesperson said. The law allows for an exemption for 10 events per organiser per year per municipality.

“Paris 2024 will be organising more than 700 competition sessions over 15 days of competition,” the spokesperson said. 

“It is the strict application of French law that allows catering services that include the provision of alcohol to operate in hospitality areas, as they are governed by a separate law on catering.”

An exception. How very French. 

Alcohol was also banned from stadiums at the Covid-delayed Olympics in Tokyo, but events were eventually held without spectators due to the Covid pandemic. 

Beer and wine were widely available at the 2012 and 2016 Games in London and Rio de Janeiro.

For this year’s Rugby World Cup, which also takes place in France this September and October, organisers have negotiated an exemption for the tournament. 

So good news for notoriously thirsty rugby fans. 

One of Australia's best bistro wines now has a sibling

For over 30 years leading Barossa winery Torbreck has paid tribute to the wines of the Rhone Valley with its Cuvée Juveniles red blend, one of Australia's most notable - and affordable - food-friendly wines.

The Cuvée Juveniles blend was created by former Torbreck winemaker Dave Powell for Tim Johnston, the jovial expat British proprietor of Juveniles wine bar in Paris. It was one of the first Australian wines to be enjoyed by French wine lovers.

Johnston has spent decades in France, and partnered Mark Williamson at the famous Willi's around the corner before opening Juveniles, where he has championed smaller producers, particularly from the Rhone.

Powell was one of many Australian winemakers to befriend Johnston, making Juveniles - initially exclusively for the wine bar - in the last 1990s.

I have a special affinity for this wine as Juveniles was my watering hole for the five years I lived in Paris - just around the corner from my office on Place de la Bourse on Rue Richelieu. 

Juveniles opened in 1987 and to this very day is where you'll bump into the likes of Jeffrey Grosset, Chester Osborn or Vanya Cullen when they are in Paris.

I have spent many happy hours at Juveniles exploring wines at Tim's recommendation.

Now Cuvée Juveniles has a sibling: Cuvée Juveniles Blanc pays homage to the fresh and energetic Cotes du Rhone white blends enjoyed in wine bars and bistros across France.

A blend of roussanne, marsanne, clairette, grenache blanc and viognier, it is a racy white designed for immediate enjoyment with minimal ceremony. The 2022 vintage has a very reasonable RRP of $29.

Meanwhile, to the original varieties of grenache, mourvedre and shiraz, current Torbreck winemaker Ian Hongell (ex Peter Lehmann) has added two other grape varieties to the popular red Juveniles blend: counoise and carignan. The current 2021 vintage is bursting with juicy fruit and is also just $29 RRP.

Nowadays Tim Johnson has stepped back from day-to-day operations at Juveniles.

It is now run by his daughter Margaux and her chef/partner Romain Roudeau. It is as much a bistro now as a wine bar, but it remains a port of call each time I visit Paris.

I'll have to ask Tim what he thinks of the new vin blanc. I reckon he'll like it.  

The luxury breakfast that will set you back almost $120

Looking for a luxury breakfast in Paris? 

The Four Seasons Hotel George V has just launched a new signature breakfast at its Michelin-starred Le Cinq restaurant.

The only problem is that feasting on dishes crafted by head baker Guillaume Cabrol and executive pastry chef Michael Bartocetti is priced at €76 (that's around $117 in Australian dollars) - so a big step up from egg and chips.

The five-star hotel promises that the signature breakfast is "a memorable gastronomic experience".

The spread features "Parisian delights along with specialities from several French regions", which guests enjoy while seated on Louis XVI medallion chairs adorned with gold leaf.

Breakfast begins with a sweet treat followed by a selection of homemade breads and pastries, including pains au chocolat and traditional French baguettes.

Think dishes like apple turnovers, cruffins and dulce de leche.

Your breakfast also features chocolate from a renowned artisan producer.

Then come the George V’s signature eggs. Soft boiled egg mousseline with caviar, eggs royale and blue lobster omelette are among the offerings, along with egg cocotte with foie gras and black truffle.

Available every day from 7-11am Le Cinq’s Signature Breakfast includes freshly pressed juice, and a hot beverage.

Here is the menu, should you be tempted: https://www.fourseasons.com/paris/dining/menus/le-cinq-signature-breakfast-menu/