Fast tracking your way around Japan

Forget driving. Catching the bus? No chance. 

If you have to travel long distances in Japan then there is only one way to go: on a bullet train, also known as Shinkansen. 

The fast train network covers most of Japan - and we used rail passes to travel from Tokyo to visit the regional town of Kanazawa and surrounds. 

There are range of Japan rail passes to choose from and you only need to make one or two journeys to cover your costs. 

We used a Hokuriku Arch Pass, which cost around $300 for eight days of travel, including in the Metro Tokyo area. 

The trains are clean, fast and comfortable. And reliable. There is plenty of free luggage storage space, announcements in English and free wifi on board.  

The Hokuriku Shinkansen connecting Tokyo with Tsuruga in the Hokuriku region. 

It is a joint venture between JR East and JR West. 

Stops include Nagano, the host city for the 1998 Winter Olympics and Japan's dinosaur capital of Fukui.

The pass can be used from Kansai Airport, Narita Airport, and Haneda Airport, and also includes the Limited Express Thunderbird between Osaka and Kanazawa.

It is also possible to use the Narita Express between Narita Airport and Tokyo, as well as the Limited Express Haruka between Kansai Airport and Shin-Osaka, and between Kansai Airport and Kyoto.

Tokyo to Kanazawa takes under 2 1/2 hours on the fast train - covering a distance of 450km. It would take over six hours - and a whole lot of stress - to drive between the two destinations, and you will have to pay toll fees for at least five different expressways.

But the system can be a complex one. Do your homework before you get to the station. Be aware that the majority of trains require a (free) seat reservation. And be prepared for massive crowds in stations if you travel at peak times.   

The route of the final Hokuriku section to Shin-Osaka was expected to be completed by the late 2020s - but then financial issues struck, Nikkei Asia reported. 

Concerns are emerging that the project may fail to pass a cost-benefit test that is one condition for starting construction.

Extending the line to Osaka is now expected to cost as much as 5.3 trillion yen ($36 billion), the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism recently told lawmakers - more than double the initial estimate.

Pass holders can actually use their passes between Tsuruga and Osaka - but on slower regional trains.

The sharp increase owes to higher labour and materials costs. The ministry also said construction could now take up to 28 years, up from its previous estimate of 15, owing partly to labour reforms.

The ministry plans to provide information as early as 2025 on whether the project still meets the necessary conditions to go ahead, including on its benefit-to-cost ratio and funding.

Authorities are weighing three options to extend the line from Tsuruga to Shin-Osaka station, with plans to begin construction by the end of fiscal 2025.

All three options under consideration involve building an underground section through Kyoto.

Depending on your destination, a rail pass might be worth considering if you plan to travel in Japan. https://www.jreast.co.jp/multi/en/pass/hokurikuarch.html 

# The writer paid his own way

Take the Sake Train for a different rail journey

Wine lovers visiting Japan might want to put aside time to travel on the Sake Train.

The Koshino Shu*Kura is a special train operated by JR East that travels around Niigata prefecture, a region famous for sake (Japanese rice wine).

The train is one of a group of so-called “joyful trains”, which encompass a variety of themes and often feature rides through beautiful parts of the countryside.

Koshino Shu*Kura stops at different spots where sake breweries are located.

Included in the journey is an onboard sake tasting, featuring rice wines that have been locally sourced, together with a variety of snacks that are typical to the west Tohoku region.

Groups can enjoy tasting flights, or buy whole bottles.



The train consists of three cars, each with a different interior.

Train car 1:
Called the observation deck, this train car was built with special wide windows to enjoy the view to the max. There are special seating arrangements that can set up to six people together, great for families travelling together.

Train car 2:
This is the event space, with standing tables for sake tasting and room for music and dance performances.

Train car 3:
This train car is filled with traditional reclining seats and an open space used to chat and hang out with other passengers.

 
The Koshino Shu*Kura runs on three routes, each with their own name. The traditional Koshino Shu*Kura: is the name of the service that runs between Jōetsumyōkō station and Tōkamachi station.

Yuzawa Shu*Kura service runs between Jōetsumyōkō station and the winter resort of town of Yuzawa with its terminus at Echigo-Yuzawa station, while Ryuto Shu*Kura is in service between Jōetsumyōkō and Niigata station.

The train is covered by the JR Pass and onboard drinks and food are available at extra cost. Reservations are required and are recommended at least three days in advance.

I've added this to my "to do" list next time I am in Japan.   

Meet the Japanese castle that many locals believe is divinely protected

There are few countries more fascinating to visit than Japan; with its history, vibrant culture, exciting cuisine and welcoming vibe. 

Japan is certainly high on my list of places to re-visit as soon as the world returns to normal - and I find its small towns, many off the beaten track, particularly fascinating. 

Take Himeji, a smallish city located in the Hyogo Prefecture that is twinned with Adelaide in South Australia. 

Himeji is probably best known for Himeji Castle, which is regarded as the finest surviving example of prototypical wooden Japanese castle architecture, comprising a network of 83 rooms with advanced defensive systems from the feudal period. 

The castle is frequently known as Hakuro-jō or Shirasagi-jō ("White Egret Castle" or "White Heron Castle") because of its brilliant white exterior and supposed resemblance to a bird taking flight.

Himeji Castle dates to 1333, when it was a fort. The fort was dismantled and rebuilt as Himeyama Castle in 1346, and then remodeled into Himeji Castle two centuries later. 

It is the largest and most visited castle in Japan, and it was registered in 1993 as one of the first UNESCO World Heritage sites in the country. 

Himeji was heavily bombed in 1945, at the end of World War II, and although most of the surrounding area was burned to the ground, the castle survived intact. 

In 1995, the city of Himeji was substantially damaged by the Great Hanshin Earthquake but Himeji Castle again survived virtually undamaged. It has also survived several typhoons.

Many Himeji residents believe that the castle is divinely protected. 

From 2010 it underwent restoration work for several years and reopened to the public in 2015. I visited in 2018. Tours in English are available.

The city of Himeji, with a population of just over half a million people, is in the Kansai region of Honshu - between Kyoto and Osaka - and easily reachable via JR Rail (a JR Rail Pass is one of the easiest ways to travel around Japan).

Kokoen garden (above) was opened in 1992 and consists of nine large and small gardens using divides of the ruins of Himeji Castle west mansion, It is often used for filming historical dramas because it looks like you have time traveled to the Edo period. The tea ceremony experience in the tea room is popular.

Also check out  Himeji City Museum of Art and the Harimanokunisosha temple.

Be sure to make time for lunch or dinner at Omotenashi Dining Fukutei, which specialises in regional seafood, including sashimi, charcoal-grilled fish and rice dishes cooked in an earthen pot. Conger eel (anago) is a speciality here. 

Nadagiku Kappa-tei is a local sake brewery runs that serves dishes that pair well with sake.

For more information see www.himeji-kanko.jp/en, www.japanvisitor.com/japan-city-guides/city-guide-himeji or www.jreast.co.jp/multi/pass/index.html