Grape oversupply looming as a crisis in France

An oversupply of juice in the Charente could become a problem for the entire French wine industry. 

French industry newsletter Vitisphere is cautioning that a crisis in Cognac could become a national crisis. 

Most of the grapes from the region are traditionally used for Cognac and other brandy styles, but are in surplus. 

The production potential of the Charente vineyards is expected to be massively in surplus and could exceed 1 to 2 million hectolitres of white wines without a geographical indication (Vin de France). 

“We did everything we could to avoid disrupting anyone, but now we're reaching the limits of what we can do,” an unnamed source from the Charente region told the newsletter. 

"The risk of a surplus remains high, as confirmed by the latest Charentes-Cognac wine region council figures.

“Even with the heat and drought, the Charente region will produce at least 2 million hectolitres."

One unnamed bulk wine specialist quoted by Vitisphere said: "I foresee general chaos in the sector. No more money anywhere. The banks are pulling out. The domino effect could be stratospheric.”

The region has asked for financial aid from Brussels and Paris to avoid the financial need to flood the market.

Image: Charente vineyards, https://www.guide-de-la-charente.com/

French wine and spirits export volumes and values plunge

French wine and spirits exports have plunged to their lowest volume in at least 25 years, with demand damaged by trade tensions with both China and the US.

Sales were impacted by US tariffs and Chinese duties, with a strong Euro also making alcohol more expensive, industry body Federation des Exportateurs de Vins & Spiritueux (FEVS) said.

Total French wine and spirits exports dipped by 3% in volume in 2025 to 168 million cases, FEVS announced. Exports dipped by 8% in value to a five-year low of €14.3bn, with US and tariffs and Chinese duties hurting demand, trade publications drinks business reported. 

Traditionally, wine and spirits has been France’s second-largest export sector. It now trails behind aerospace and cosmetics.

FEVS chair Gabriel Picard said the sector would likely benefit from new EU trade agreements with India and the Mercosur bloc. But he warned the industry could continue to see difficulties in 2026 without improved market access.

In 2025, sales dropped almost a quarter (21%) to €3 billion, with volumes plummeting below 30 million cases. 

“There is a real decline in the United States and the volume correction may not have been sufficient, and perhaps we will see another volume correction in 2026,” Picard told Reuters news agency.

Cognac - France’s flagship spirit - saw sales dipping 15% in volume and 24% in value in 2025.

“Geopolitical tensions between France and China marked the end of cognac in China," Picard said. "Now stopping something doesn’t take long, but rebuilding takes a long time.” 

On the plus side, within Europe, wine and spirits exports held broadly stable at €4.1 billion, with resilience in markets such as the UK, where volumes rose 3% despite fiscal pressure, FEVS said.

The sales to South Africa also climbed 22% to €182 million, while Vietnam, the Philippines and Australia also showed strong momentum.

Cognac in crisis: grape growers to demonstrate

Unhappy times in Charente with angry grape growers for Cognac producers planning a major protest. 

Cognac wine growers are being called to a "strong mobilization to demonstrate" at the Moisans distillery (above) on Wednesday in Sireuil, the General Union of Winegrowers for the Cognac AOC (UGVC) announced. 

It follows a previous demo in 2024 and aims to "enforce the contracts of winegrowers whose contracts have been illegally terminated by certain producers," French wine industry newsletter Vitisphere reports. 

The UGVC is targeting the Moisans Distillery, which produces Cognacs under the Deau, Roland Bru, and Moisans cognacs, Vitisphere said. 

Confirming that his business had reduced about 20 contracts with winegrowers by 60%, Olivier Petit, the managing director of the Moisans distillery, defended his operations. 

“I don’t know why we’re being targeted; we reduced our contracts like everyone else," he said. "We’re not perfect, and I would have preferred to honour everything. 

"We reduced the contracts based on our bottle sales capacity; I can’t buy what I can’t sell and pay for."

Petit complained about discounting in the industry. 

"We’re doing everything we can to respect our partners,” Petit added. 

The UGVC said: "The Moisans distillery has significantly reduced its commitments despite signed contracts, and has even failed to pay winegrowers for wines purchased from them.

"While some winegrowers are directly affected by contracts with this company, the entire wine industry is actually threatened by this kind of practice." 

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Delamain goes big to celebrate 200 years of Cognac

 

The House of Delamain, a leading Cognac producer, has gone all out to impress as it celebrates its 200th anniversary.

As part of its bicentennial celebrations, it has released L’Edition Rare du Bicentenaire, a blend of five rare extra-old Cognacs exclusively from the prestigious Grande Champagne terroir.

Presented in a 10-litre demijohn crafted by the Parisian Maison d’Art Goossens - known for its artistic goldsmithing - the release “embodies 200 years of accumulated savoir-faire and Delamain’s impassioned curiosity as to the natural world”.

Founded in 1824 in Jarnac, the House of Delamain remains family-operated in partnership with the Bollinger Champagne group. 

“Now as then, nature, time, and people are at the heart of everything we do, and the most exquisite cognacs lie ahead,” says managing director Eric le Bouar.

In addition to the exclusive demijohn, 200 individually numbered bottles of L’Edition Rare du Bicentenaire will be released in December. 

LeBron spruiks a special-edition cognac

Meet the new limited-edition cognac that being promoted by veteran NBA star LeBron James.

Cognac house Hennessy has revealed a new collab with LeBron for a special design of its VS “Very Special” bottle.

The limited edition bottle design will be available globally this week, drinks business reports.

James called himself an “admirer of Hennessy and its iconic brand”, saying he has “always appreciated its commitment to basketball and how it celebrates the sport’s influence on and off the court.”

I hadn’t noticed myself but db reports that LMH-owned Hennessy has regularly aligned itself with the sport and its fans.

In October 2023, the brand extended its contract as the official spirit of the NBA.

To mark the renewal, the cognac maker released limited-edition bottles co-branded with the NBA and unveiled a series of basketball courts in recognisable settings worldwide, including a floating version on the River Thames in London.

Partnerships with basketball players help cognac houses raise their profile in North America, a market in which the category is struggling. In recent years cognac has seen sharp decline of sales in that market, which accounts for 40% of global sales.

And sales in the US are becoming evermore central to distillers’ export strategy, as China, the category’s biggest market, threatens has threatened imposing tariffs.

Both the bottle and gift box highlight an illustration of James in purple and orange. The Hennessy Bras Armé is reimagined on the limited- edition packaging, sporting a sleeve as a tribute to James and intertwined with his trademark crown.

The blend will remain the same.

Antoine Varlet, senior vice president, Hennessy US, said: “We are elated to officially welcome LeBron James to the Hennessy family after many years of mutual admiration and friendship. 

"LeBron is not just a basketball star, but someone who redefines boundaries in sport, style, culture and beyond.”

James loves his spirits. He is also an investor in Lobos 1707 Tequila. 

The world's largest hotel wine cellar celebrates 150 years

Created in 1874, the legendary wine cellars at Monaco’s Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo are this year marking 150 years - in conspicuous style.

With 350,000 bottles spread over 1.5 kilometres of racks in a 1500m2 space, the hotel cellars are the largest in the world and hold myriad treasures. They will play host to a a series of dinners and masterclasses, The Monaco Tribune reports.

The Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mer, the group which owns the hotel, is pulling out all the stops,

Stéphane Valeri, SBM’s managing director, says: “The 150th anniversary of the Hôtel de Paris cellars celebrates not only Marie Blanc’s fabulous legacy, but also the passion and talent of our cellarmen and sommeliers, who are keeping this heritage alive, whether in the cellars, or in our 30 or so restaurants and bars today.

"For our group, it’s about sharing and handing down through the years.”

Additionally, Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo’s is renewing its production tradition to launch a Grande Champagne Premier Cru de Cognac, an XO Extra Old quality Champagne Cognac.

The Cognac will be available from this month.

The cellar was carved into the rock under the palace at the request of Marie Blanc, the wife of François Blanc, founder of the Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mer.

To coincide with the 150th anniversary, the cellars are undergoing a two-stage renovation project, beginning with a new entrance, reception, and tasting room.

Image: Monaco Tribune 

Spirited argument: global giant tries to trademark a date

I'm thinking of trademarking the year 2025 and then charging all the wine companies around the world who want to use it on their labels.

Palpably absurd, of course, but not as absurd as massive Cognac conglomerate Rémy Martin insisting it has the sole rights to the date 1738.

Leading liquor industry website https://www.thedrinksbusiness.com/ is in conflict with Victor George Spirits in Florida over the use of the date 1738 on its bourbon bottles.

Fort Mosé 1738 Bourbon is named after the first free black town in the United States, declared so by the town’s governor in 1738.

Rémy Martin, however, has a 1738 Accord Royal Cognac that has the same year on its labels “commemorate the reward of excellence bestowed on Rémy Martin by King Louis XV in 1738”.

There is now a trademark dispute with Remy aiming to prevent VGS from using the year on its bourbon.

Victor Harvey (above), founder and CEO of black-owned and operated VGS, told the Miami New Times that he first received notice of the objection from Remy Martin in November last year.

“This originally came as an utter surprise,” Harvey said. “I’m not an attorney, but I’ve never known you could trademark an entire year as part of a trademark.

“We 100% chose the year 1738 because of its significance to black people in America. It was the first year in this country where black people could live free in some regard. That’s our sole reason for using it.”

When VGS first launched its bourbon it agreed to donate US$1 from every bottle sale to the Fort Mosé Historical Society to help with educational programmes and events in order to raise awareness of the historic town in what is now Florida.

Wikipedia says: "Fort Mosé was established as a free black settlement, the first to be legally sanctioned in what would become the territory of the United States".

How to turn your Monnet into a work of cocktail art

The craze for white spirits including gin, vodka and tequila has seen cognac, armagnac and other brandies somewhat sidelined.

But brandy-based cocktails are back and being heavily promoted for Mother's Day on May 14.

Monnet Cognac has a history dating back to 1838 but is a relatively recent arrival in the Australian market.

There are six Monnet brands available at Dan Murphy’s stores with the VS ($72.99) perfect for creating a range of cocktails.

Cognac is, of course, one of the most versatile spirits for the way it can be consumed either straight, on the rocks, within a cocktail, or paired with a meal.

Monnet Cognac has become famous through Leonetti Capiello’s renowned poster, ‘Sunshine in a glass’, which was illustrated for Monnet in the 1920s.

True to tradition, Monnet uses a copper pot still double distillation to produce its cognacs, which are aged for a minimum of two years.

The Monnet VS is aged in Limousin oak casks for a minimum of three years. Here are three cocktail suggestions.

1. ‘Because I Said So' Marauder

In a mixing glass: 50ml Monnet Cognac, 10ml strawberry liqueur, 30ml cranberry juice (sweetened), 5ml lime juice (freshly squeezed). Method: Combine all ingredients and shake with ice. Fine strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with skewered raspberries.

2. Spicy Mama (above) 

Ingredients: 20ml Monnet VSOP, 30ml Monnet Salamander, 15ml 4-spice syrup, 40ml fresh orange juice, 40ml fresh pineapple juice. Method: In a shaker, pour Cognac Monnet VSOP and Salamander, syrup and fresh juices. Shake vigorously and pour into a long glass filled with ice cubes.

3. Mum’s Sidecar

Ingredients: 60ml Monnet Cognac Sunshine, 30ml of Triple Sec, 15ml-30ml of lemon juice to taste. Garnish with a lemon twist. Method: Cut a notch in a lemon wedge, then run the lemon around the rim of a cocktail glass. Dip the edge of the rim into a plate of superfine sugar. Place all ingredients in a cocktail shaker with a handful of ice and shake until cold. Strain the drink into the prepared glass. Garnish with lemon or orange twist.

French drinks export boom led by Cognac and Champagne

The world cannot get enough of French wines and spirits with exports up 14% over the first six months of 2022.

Between January and June 2022, France shipped €9 billion of wines and spirits around the world, said Olivier Becht, minister delegate in charge of foreign trade.

The record sales exceeded the pre-Covid crisis level of exports (€7 billion in 2019).

Saying that “wines and spirits are at the heart of national agri-food exports”, Becht reported sales had been boosted by Cognac (€2 billion, +9% in value) and Champagne (€2 billion, +32% in value and +14% in volume).

The leading destination for French wines and spirits remains the United States, accounting for 28% of sector exports (€2.5 billion), with a strong presence of Cognac (40% of shipments) and Champagnes (16%), Vitisphere reported.

Having recently spoken with his US counterpart, Katherine Tai, over trade differences between the two nations, Becht said: “the state of mind has completely changed between the Trump and Biden administrations."

Image: Marco Simola, Scop.io

Cognac sales soar around the globe

Cognac is one of the drinks du jour with producers saying sales have never been stronger. 

Sales figures for 2021 suggest new grape plantings will be needed soon as the French region of Charente struggles to keep up with demand, the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac says. 

"The demand for Cognac has never been so strong in our markets," says Christophe Veral, president of the association. 

"Cognac remains marked by a very strong momentum," Veral said. "We are recording very good shipment results in 2021. 

"We end the year with an increase of +16.2% in volume and +30.9% in value compared to 2020. 

"This result in value stems from a relative growth of old qualities and a good valuation of Cognac on its buoyant markets. 

"Demand for Cognac has never been as strong on our markets as this year. Despite the uncertainties related to weather conditions, the 2021 harvest allows us to support the continuation of our growth, while all the available data lead us to be reasonably optimistic for the year 2022."

Figures show that 20 years ago the sector shipped 117 million bottles per year worldwide but 2021 figures were close to 230 million, Vitisphere reported. 

There are plans to exceed the milestone of 350 million bottles by 2035 as Cognac is increasingly used in high-end cocktails as well as a stand-alone drink. 

In other good news for Cognac, the Michelin Guide France will unveil its 2022 edition on March 22 from the Cognac region. 

"A benchmark of French excellence, and a global jewel in terms of spirits, Cognac and the Charente region will host the best of French gastronomy talent:" the association said in a statement. 

The BNIC was founded in 1946 to promote the drinks of the region.