Grape oversupply looming as a crisis in France

An oversupply of juice in the Charente could become a problem for the entire French wine industry. 

French industry newsletter Vitisphere is cautioning that a crisis in Cognac could become a national crisis. 

Most of the grapes from the region are traditionally used for Cognac and other brandy styles, but are in surplus. 

The production potential of the Charente vineyards is expected to be massively in surplus and could exceed 1 to 2 million hectolitres of white wines without a geographical indication (Vin de France). 

“We did everything we could to avoid disrupting anyone, but now we're reaching the limits of what we can do,” an unnamed source from the Charente region told the newsletter. 

"The risk of a surplus remains high, as confirmed by the latest Charentes-Cognac wine region council figures.

“Even with the heat and drought, the Charente region will produce at least 2 million hectolitres."

One unnamed bulk wine specialist quoted by Vitisphere said: "I foresee general chaos in the sector. No more money anywhere. The banks are pulling out. The domino effect could be stratospheric.”

The region has asked for financial aid from Brussels and Paris to avoid the financial need to flood the market.

Image: Charente vineyards, https://www.guide-de-la-charente.com/

Wine innovation born of adversity

Sparkling wines called Blanc de Noir are almost always made from traditional Champagne varieties: pinot noir, or occasionally pinot meunier.

But a new release from Best's Great Western is a bubbly Blanc de Noir made, quite unusually, from shiraz grapes.

Fifth-generation winemaker Ben Thomson has chosen innovation to conquer adversity, using his excess shiraz to create the Blanc de Noir Cuvée, as well as a still Syrah Blanc.

The 2024 Blanc de Noir is made from 100% shiraz grapes in response to the challenges of recent vintages.

Thomson saw an opportunity to create something new out of the exceptional fruit from his Sugarloaf Creek vineyard - and the wine has been released ahead of the festive season.

“Making the most of adversity is something winemakers need to do to survive,” says Thomson.

“We’re raising a glass to the triumph of the Blanc de Noir project.  It takes a little while to get your head around the fact that these bubbly beads of delight are made from shiraz grapes.

"Once you get over that, you will discover brilliant clarity with apple, pear, lemon and lime characters dancing away on the palate.”

The fruit is early picked to ensure bright acid. I found the wine quite yeasty on the nose but delicate on the palate - definitely a style suited to enjoying with food.

See https://www.bestswines.com/product/2024-blanc-de-noir. The wines available at fine wine outlets for $30.