A lovely hotel where you can avoid the excesses of Pattaya

The notorious Thai resort town of Pattaya has a stench about it it; both literally and metaphorically. 

The drains in downtown Pattaya City stink to high heaven, particularly on warm days (of which there are many). Think the combined aromas of warm shit, stale beer, perfume, urine and drowned cigarette stubs.

Walking Street is worth avoiding

Pattaya City is a playground for tourists, largely from Russia and China, and it is common to see middle-aged men walking hand-in-hand with teenage girls en route to places called "Bone Club" or "the Little Hole." It's not a place for families, or young lovers.

Walking Street, Pattaya's most notorious strip of bars, go-go establishments and massage parlours, has its own stench - one of desperation. Here you can find girls with families to support urgently seeking a tourist to buy them a drink - and with whom to establish a deep and meaningful friendship within 15 minutes.

To be fair you'll find the same thing in Bangkok, Phuket or Koh Samui, but Pattaya just seems so much more tawdry. In the rest of Thailand there is an edge of humour, here just desolation. 

Witness the overweight 40-something Mauy Thai boxers, well past their prime, trying to put on a show for the tourists by punching and kicking each other in a bar on Walking Street. 

Maybe I caught Pattaya City on a bad day, or maybe it caught me on a bad day - but going to Thailand and opting to stay in central Pattaya strikes me as a bit like going to England and opting to stay in Hull, or choosing Toulon as your lone destination in France. 

To be fair, the area surrounding Pattaya has many world-class attractions and you are just 75 minutes from Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi Airport; there are clean, sandy beaches rather than the oil-slicked ones on the resort strip; world-class golf courses and impressive spa facilities.

The beachfront pool at the Movenpick 

Many visitors will probably want to visit Pattaya City at least once during their stay, maybe for shopping or a massage, but my tip is to stay away from the hustle and bustle - and hustlers - by finding a hotel at Na Jomtien Beach; a new resort strip that is just a 20-30-minute shuttle ride away.

Choose carefully; not all of these hotels are suitable for Westerners; some cater exclusively for Russian and Chinese guests. 

I just spent three days at an outstanding new five-star property right on south Na Jomtien Beach, the Swiss-owned Movenpick Siam Hotel Pattaya. 

Why the owners have opted to use the name Pattaya in their hotel name is mystery - it will surely only scare lots of family vacationers away. 

Which is a pity as the Movenpick, open only two months, is a very fine property indeed, modern and efficient with terrific staff and great facilities.

Movenpick rooms are delightfully stylish 

Dining options, for instance, range from T55, a New York-style steak house; Twist, an all-day dining option with both Thai and western dishes; the La Costa Pool Bar (excellent for a cold beer and a chicken satay) and snacks in the Red Coral Lounge (think a global wine list and artisan gins). A tapas-style eatery is close to completion, and there is also an excellent executive lounge. 

Waldorf Salad as an artwork at T55

Wifi is fast and free throughout the high-rise property and Wave Spa is a lovely, and peaceful, spa facility. For a property that has only been open a short time things work remarkably smoothly and the buffet breakfast has to be in the top five I have seen in terms of both range and quality. 

The buffet breakfast is outstanding

The pool overlooks the pristine beach and is delightful; there is a well-equipped fitness centre and rooms mostly have ocean views.

The Ocean Marina Yacht Club is just a short stroll along the beach and the three golf courses at the Siam Country Club are just a short drive away as is the Phoenix Golf Country Club as well as temples and theme parks. 

There are 256 guest rooms, suites and pool villas, all well-thought-out and luxurious, and younger guests will enjoy a free chocolate and desserts buffet served every day from 4-5pm as well as the kids club and kayaks on the beach.

There are also shuttles four times daily from the resort to Pattaya City. But let's not go there. 

Movenpick Siam Hotel Pattaya, 55 Moo 2 Sukhumvit Road, Na Jomtien, Sattahip, Chonburi, Thailand. +66 33 078 888. www.movenpick.com. 

  

Major accolade for Queensland resort

Some of the finest hospitality addresses in the world are members of the international association Relais & Châteaux; and now a Queensland resort has joined the list alongside the likes of Tetsuya's and The Louise. 

Relais & Châteaux announced today that Spicers Peak Lodge on the Scenic Rim has joined as its newest member in Australia.

Whilst each property in the group is individual, each one is selected for its hospitality and charm. 

Perched on top of the Cedar Mountain plateau, Spicers Peak Lodge offers views of the surrounding mountain range and National Park wilderness. It is around two hours south-west of Brisbane, and inland from the Gold Coast. 

The property joins more than 540 of the world’s top-rated luxury boutique hotels and restaurants. Fellow Australian members include: Jonah’s, Tetsuya’s, Guillaume and Rockpool Est.1989 in Sydney and Hentley Farm Restaurant and The Louise luxury retreat in The Barossa.

"Spicers Retreats is honoured to be involved with Relais & Châteaux as it aligns with our own company values of non-compromising quality when it comes to service, food and accommodation as well as ensuring every guest leaves with a memorable meaningful stay." Says David Assef, Managing Director, Spicers Retreats.

For more information, visit www.relaischateaux.com/spicers

Little things add up to a great stay in Kuala Lumpur

There are certain things that are non-negotiable for a city hotel. 

It has to be within walking distance of they key destinations; to have friendly, helpful staff, a comfortable bed, a shower that works and fast, free wifi.

All the rest tends to fall into place if a hotel gets those basics right - and that is certainly the case at the excellent Pullman Kuala Lumpur City Centre Hotel and Residences, a property that was until recently part of the Japanese Prince chain. 

Probably the most noticeable feature is the staff - almost uniformly bright and sparky. The staff vibe is more that of a niche boutique property than a large city hotel. 

The main Kuala Lumpur attractions, including the Petronas Twin Towers, the shopping on Jalan Bukit Bintang (a bit of a building site right now) and the gourmet cuisine of Jalan Alor (Food Street), are just a gentle stroll away, but the hotel is well placed for those who don't want to hear the roar of traffic 24 hours a day. 

There is also a monorail station at Raja Chulan, just six minutes walk from the hotel, putting the entire city within easy reach - even a trip to Little India takes just 15 minutes by monorail; far faster than taking a taxi, as they are easily halted by traffic. 

The hotel has excellent on-site business facilities, should you wish to do some work during your stay, and two excellent restaurants (both of which were surprisingly quiet) - the Chinese Tai Ze Heen and Japanese Enju. There is also an excellent buffet breakfast on offer at Eccucino on the ground floor. 

There are regular food promotions; A Taste of Indonesia buffet from May 20-29, for instance, or all you can eat dim sum at weekends until the end of June. 

There are all the five-star touches; the modern Sompoton Spa, a good-sized pool next door to the hotel in the Residences, a pleasant garden, and a good-sized gym.

There is an attractive lounge with cold beers and great snacks but, unfortunately, the current singer sounds like a strangled cat and I had to vacate. 

There are 179 standard rooms, 140 deluxe rooms (mine had a stunning view of the Petronas Towers), 62 premium de luxe rooms, 41 executive rooms with access to an executive lounge throughout the day, and 23 up-market suites.

The shower was a delight - ultra powerful - and the room toiletries were top class. 

I liked little touches like coffee machines and free water - and excellent old-style concierges.desk with maps and useful information.

The serviced apartments are in the separate Residences building next door, along with a funky "Living Space" that is an alternative for light breakfasts and small meetings 

This is a very good hotel with upgrades planned to make it more Pullman in style. The way the staff interact with guests, however, lifts it from good to great. 

Pullman Kuala Lumpur City Centre Hotel and Residences, Jalan Conlay, 50450 Kuala Lumpur. +603 2170 8888. www.pullmanhotels.com           

Tasmania's gourmet showcase in Melbourne to expand

For 12 years, Pure South restaurant on Melbourne's Southbank, overlooking the Yarra River, has been promoting Tasmanian wine and produce.

The Pure South team has sought out small producers and growers and built close relationships with them, using sustainable, ethical foodstuffs.

Pure South Dining has worked with farmers, fishermen and artisan producers in Tasmania, King Island and Flinders Island, spreading the word about the quality of Tasmanian gourmet goods. And now it is closing its doors.

But only for a short time. 

Owners Phillip Kennedy and Peter Leary this week unveiled plans to expand their operation over two levels, closing for a complete refurbishment from April 30. 

When Pure South re-opens it will offer a variety of experiences and spaces within the restaurant," co-owner Kennedy said. 

Patrons will soon not only be able to dine in style, they will be able to opting for a morning coffee or a cold beer and some oysters in the afternoon.

"We will have such a variety of spaces within the two floors so that there will be something to suit everyone, whatever they are in the mood for,”  Kennedy said.

David Hall will continue as head chef in the re-imagined space. 

Melbourne design and architecture practice Herbert & Mason has developed the project’s design and fit out. The company's portfolio includes Barangaroo in Sydney, Meatsmith by Andrew McConnell in Collingwood, and Australia House in Japan.

Three changes that would make Melbourne even more magical

There are so many things to love and admire about Melbourne. 

There are myriad quirky cafes, bars and restaurants. The city is the heartbeat of Australia's food and wine culture.

There is the shopping - by far the best in the country. And a public transport system that works. 

There are the laneways, the magnificent sporting facilities and the Yarra River, winding its way through the city centre.
 
Throw in two magnificent wine regions on its doorstep - the Yarra Valley and the Mornington Peninsula - and you have a fine place in which to live, or visit. 

But it could be better. So much better. 

First there is an abiding obsession with AFL football that permeates everything.
 
From billboards and TV ads to conversations and calendars; so much revolves around a sport that is only taken seriously in a few states of one country. 

Let's be honest. It is a freak hybrid of a sport that you have to grow up with to love. 

And yet virtually the first thing anyone asks you in Melbourne is: "Who do you barrack for." And an answer of "Norwich City, the Greens and Bruce Springsteen" is not good enough. 

You'll get a puzzled look and a response of: "No, seriously?" 

If only Melburnians could learn that only they really care about drug-taking Bombers, wife-bashing Kangaroos and a schoolgirl from St Kilda misbehaving with player manager then their city would be a much more balanced place. 

And then there is the Southbank; and what I presume to be its pedestrian precinct.

You walk along the banks of the Yarra (no cars are allowed) and can choose from a selection of world-class eateries in which to enjoy fine food and a glass of wine. 

If you survive the walk, that is. 

Because the Southbank precinct is favoured as a thoroughfare by a large number of lycra-clad homicidal would-be Lance Armstrongs. 

Some ring their bells, or at least use lights as they emerge out of the darkness.
 
Others just weave in and around the pedestrians, who must feel like one of the pins in a giant tenpin bowling alley. It's scary as hell if you aren't used to it. 

And then there is the weather. Arrive on a Tuesday and it is bright, sunny and charming. 

Leave on Wednesday and it is raining and as dark as the final moments of the apocalypse. 

It's not charming - just annoying. 

Just three things Melbourne. You could be so much better. 

# The writer was a guest of the (very good) Hilton Melbourne South Wharf. 

Why saving money with Air Asia X makes lots of sense

I love flying with Air Asia and Air Asia X. 

That statement might raise an eyebrow or two from readers who know of my love of the finer things in life.

Air Asia, make no mistake, is a budget airline. You get what you pay for, which is not a lot. 

And from the money you save over eight or nine hours in the air, you can have a so much better time in  Kuala Lumpur, Phuket or Bali.

First the basics. Some of the Air Asia airport terminals in Asia are not the brightest, shiniest or newest. But they do the job. And you pay for however much baggage you need. Which seems fair. 

You get a seat that is relatively comfortable (in this case on a modern Airbus A330-300) and can upgrade for a few dollars to a seat in a quiet zone (no children) or with extra leg room.

Just about everything else you bring with you or pay extra for. It's up to you. Consider it, if you like, to be positive empowerment (yes, I'm joking).

There will be no welcome drink, or complimentary newspaper. So bring an iPad if you want to watch a movie or listen to music. Bring a book, a neck pillow and some eye shades. 

You pay for the food but its cheap (and surprisingly good). The nasi lemak and the chicken satay are both extremely tasty. You save if you book your mail in advance. 

There's an excellent range of drinks (including beers and wines) and helpful and smiling staff. Press the service button and someone appears. Just like when you are paying twice or three times as much.

There are even lie-flat beds should you wish to spring for an extra $350 between Melbourne and KL. It's still a whole lot cheaper than business class on any full-fare airline. 

Prices vary wildly depending on seasonal demand but if you are prepared to be flexible there are some real bargains to be had. 

Don't expect business lounges, Mumm and lobster. Have a bowl of express noodles for $3 and splash out on a luxury suite and a massage when you arrive at your destination - or perhaps a meal at a Michelin-starred restaurant. 

 You'll still be in front financially.  Have that mindset and the hours will fly by. 

In my view (and I've flown with them several times) Air Asia is both cheap and good. And certainly worth trying if you haven't already. 

This time I was their guest - but I have paid full freight in the past - and will do in the future. 

For more details see www.airasia.com.