Cullen leads the pack in biodynamic wine and food

It was only in the 1960s that vines were first planted in Margaret River in Western Australia – a district that is now regarded as one of Australia's leading premium wine regions.

The first two wine producers in the region were Vasse Felix and Cullen Wines – and Cullen is today regarded as one of the pioneers of Australian organic and biodynamic viticulture, as well as being the first vineyard and winery in the country to be certified carbon neutral and be naturally powered.

Cullen vineyards

Founders Kevin and Diana Cullen, whose names are honoured by the winery's flagship red and white wines, handed over the reins to their daughter Vanya, who made her first vintage in 1983 and is regarded as one of the pre-eminent global experts on biodynamic wine farming.

Diana and Kevin Cullen planted a trial vineyard on their Wilyabrup property in 1966 and, pleased by the results, planted a further 17 acres of vineyards in 1971, vowing to use minimum chemical intervention right from the start.

Today, Cullen Wines produces around 20,000 cases of premium wines, which can be found on wine lists of some of the world's greatest restaurants.

Cullen vines and restaurant

Vanya Cullen, a qualified zoologist and keen surfer, was named Australian Winemaker of the Year in 2000 and Woman of the Year by UK-based wine magazine The Drinks Business in 2008, becoming the first Australian to receive the award.

Cullen Wines has been run according to biodynamic principles since 2003 after having adopted organic methods in 1998. 

“The role of the winemaker is to be a custodian of the land,” Vanya Cullen says.

The on-site restaurant at the winery also serves only biodynamically-produced foods with many of the vegetables coming from the property's own potager.

“Put simply, biodynamic viticulture is a philosophy combining the maintenance of sustainable soil fertility and the recognition of the link between plant growth and the rhythms of the cosmos,” she says.

“It is a method of farming that treats the vineyard as a living system, which interacts with the environment to build a healthy living soil that helps to nourish the vines and general environment.”

It is a message that she spreads relentlessly – and many would argue that Cullen is today one of the most influential women in the world of wine.

Qantas tasting panel Steve Pannell, Vanya Cullen and Tom Carson

She has judged wine shows throughout Australia and is one of three winemakers on the Qantas tasting panel. In 2011 she was named “Green Personality of the Year” for her commitment to the wine industry and for demonstrating that you can operate a successful business while looking after the environment.

Whether Vanya has time to talk to a visiting journalist may depend on the position of the moon in relation to the planets. Planting and picking on the right days of the biodynamic calendar are paramount for her.

“Biodynamics relies on a series of preparations based in mineral, plant and animal substances rather than the traditional potentially toxic chemicals and sprays.” she says. “In the Cullen vineyards, this involves firstly the enhancement of the soil structure through the addition of homeopathic preparations, specially prepared composts and various fish and other emulsions and also the use of nitrogen-enhancing cover crops.

“The resulting increase in humus in the soil leads to greater microbial activity and improved aeration and retention of moisture around the roots of the vines.

“While we embrace the beneficial effects of using new technology in the winery, we remain acutely aware that certain traditional methods still produce the best outcomes, including: enhanced expression of fruit, minerality and integration of flavours; lower alcohol, lower sugar and higher acidity; expression of terroir from vineyard to bottle and elegant wine styles that are better balanced.”

Cullen's tasting notes make sure everyone knows her philosophy, with lines like “harvested over full moon fruit days.”

Whatever your thoughts on organics and biodynamics, however, the proof is in the bottle.

“It is impossible to single out any particular [Cullen] wine from the top echelon,” says James Halliday in his 2015 Wine Companion annual, the Australian wine bible. “All are superb.”

Cullen Wines recognised Kevin’s pioneering contribution by naming its premium chardonnay “Kevin John”, twinning it with the Diana Madeline, the flagship cabernet blend named in honour of his late wife.

While these two wines represent the pinnacle of the company's production, other red wines produced include a more affordable Bordeaux-style blend called Mangan, while the range also includes two outstanding single-vineyard sauvignon blanc-semillon blends and a preservative-free malbec. 

Cullen Wines: www.cullenwines.com.au 

A beginners' guide to France's magnificent markets

No matter where you go in France, you are guaranteed fresh, healthy food at the many street and covered markets.

Some of the best fresh food experiences in the world can be enjoyed at the many thousands of markets that dot the map of France. 

Some are held daily, others maybe once or twice a week, but the markets offer a moveable feast of everything from tomatoes picked that morning to home-made charcuterie from organic pig farms.

Many of these markets stretch several blocks and offer a true paddock-to-plate experience, while in small villages there may be just a few stalls offering local specialities.

Look out for the world biologique, which the French use to indicate that produce has been grown organically. Agriculture biologique is French for organic farming, and organic goods are referred to as produits bio.

While most French markets continue a mixture of organic and regular produce, the French capital, Paris, has three designated “green bio” markets.

You’ll find these at Batignolles (Saturday mornings on boulevard des Batignolles outside the Rome métro station in the 17th arrondissement), Raspail (Sunday mornings on boulevard Raspail, between rue du Cherche-Midi and rue de Rennes in the 6^th arrondissement), and Brancusi (Saturday mornings on Place Constantin in the 14^th arrondissement).

All these have stalls selling meat, fish, cheese and bread, along with dried fruits and nuts, rôtisserie poultry and baked goods. They are not, however, farmers markets, as they host both growers and retailers.

Many of the other Parisian markets have vendors offering sustainably-farmed goods – most will have a sign on their stall. The organic sector in France has quadrupled over the past decade and there are now well over 25,000 organic farms. A recent survey showed that 46% of French consumers eat organic products on a regular basis.

One city that has to be on any gastronomic tour of France is Lyon, which is has long been a magnet for lovers of fine food and wine. A “must visit” here is the Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, the city’s best market, a permanent structure in the inner suburbs.

This market is not cheap but is paradise for anyone who loves gourmet goodies. Among the stalls not to miss are Mère Richard, a decadent cheese shop; Sibilia, a stunning charcuterie; and the chocolates and sweet treats at Sève (right).

It is a delight to spend a few hours here tasting the many local specialities from the 56 merchants, many of whom also have small restaurants or cafés attached to their stalls.

An alternative is the Saint-Antoine Market, a fresh food market along the banks of the River Saône from Tuesday-Sunday (below). There is also another, smaller, market in the Croix-Rousse quarter, also from Tuesday-Sunday.

Venues for purely organic markets in Lyon include Place Vanderpool on Tuesday mornings; Place Henri on Wednesday mornings; Place Commette on Thursday mornings and on Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse on Saturday mornings.

In the south, the port city of Marseille has no fewer than five small weekly street markets offering organic produce; on Friday mornings at Place Jean Jaurès; Monday mornings on Cours Pierre Puget; on Tuesday and Saturday mornings at Cours Joseph Thierry; Wednesday mornings on Boulevard Michelet and Thursday mornings at Place Sebastapol.

And while they may not be organic, two of my other favourite markets in France are in Nice, where the riotous colours of Provencal fruit and vegetables take the breath away, and in Beaune, in Burgundy, where small producers spill out of the market hall onto the streets nearby. Saturday is the big market day in Beaune and the market here dates back to the 14^th century.

Nice, in the sunniest part of France, drew artists including Picasso and Matisse and its culinary gem is the morning street market in the heart of the old town, a feast of colour and chock-full of local specialities like olives and lavender.

The Cours Saleya is one of the liveliest areas of Nice and is the venue for flower, fruit and vegetable markets (right). These quintessentially Mediterranean markets are held Tuesday-Sunday mornings.

Finding organic markets

For a full list of organic markets in France visit www.bioetbienetre.fr. 

The most convenient address in Johannesburg - and it is also affordable

Location, location, location. There are few cities where the location of your hotel is more important than Johannesburg, with its massive urban sprawl and clogged main roads. It is a city where you do not want to get lost.

If you are visiting on business you will want to be staying in either Sandton or Randburg, the two business hubs in the northern suburbs that are close to most offices, embassies and up-market shopping malls.

Johannesburg is not a walking city, so you either need a car; or a hotel that is centrally situated, preferably within strolling distance of both shops and eateries.

The plush Michelangelo is probably the best situated hotel, but the only time I stayed there the service was appalling. The Saxon is set in beautiful grounds and has two superb restaurants but is in the 'burbs and a car is a must.

The Radisson, directly across the road from the Sandton Gautrain station (with fast access to downtown and OR Tambo Airport) is a good option, but it is hard to beat the location the Maslow Hotel, just a couple of blocks Nelson Mandela Square and Sandton's best shopping area, and with a shuttle that runs every 15 minutes (most of the time).

It is on the doorstep of the top investment banks, financial institutions, as well as the Johannesburg Stock Exchange and is essentially a business hotel during the week and a leisure hotel at the weekend.

It's a little oasis of calm in a frenetic city with beautiful gardens, water features, swimming pool and tranquil terraces - and a hugely popular spot for an after-work beer.

Among the offerings I particularly appreciated were access to a special business lounge with drinks and snacks for early or late arrivals waiting for a room, and the fact the hotel has free and unlimited wi-fi connectivity throughout.

While the Maslow, formerly known as the Southern Sun Grayston, and impressive refurbed, hosts conventions and meetings, it is also a great place to wind down. There is an up-market spa on site, although it pays to book well in advance as I found to my cost. Africology offer a range of massage treatments, facials, skin adoration wraps, scrubs and other therapeutic treatments.

Each room has a a power shower, coffee maker as well as complimentary tea. There are 40-inch LCD TVs and room service is available 24/7. There are 281 fully air-conditioned guestrooms, ranging from luxury rooms and family apartments, to junior and executive suites - and each has  a  work space with easily accessible electrical outlets.

I enjoyed the leisurely Lacuna Bistro, which offers food a cut above your average hotel diner - and it is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.  

Think dishes like prawns with jalapeño ponzu sauce or lemon garlic butter with crispy chorizo (R40 - around $4!) or maybe lamb knuckle curry with basmati rice, poppadums and condiments (R125 - about $12.50). 

Dishes range from traditional South African flavours like Karoo lamb cutlets, spicy peri peri chicken or a chowder of mussels, calamari, kingklip and smoked haddock to more traditional burgers and sandwiches. 

Every dish on the menu is matched to a wine available by the glass, from names including Kanonkop, Haute Cabriere, Jordan and DeWetshof.  

The Lacuna Bar, meanwhile, serves tapas-style dishes.  

Nearby attractions include the Theatre on the Square on the Nelson Mandela Square, which is also home to several excellent eateries, including the Butcher Shop steakhouse and a very good Thai; Liliesleaf Farm,  the secret headquarters of Umkhonto we Sizwe (military wing of the ANC) in the 1960s and those many shopping opportunities. 

All this said, I had a bathroom that flooded, encountered very slow service at check-in and found the shuttle unreliable. Nonetheless, the Maslow has a lot to recommend it. And a hotel of similar quality would cost up to three times as much in a major Australian city.

The Maslow Hotel, 146 Rivonia Road, Sandton, 2146, South Africa. +27 10 226 4600. www.suninternational.com/maslow

The Maslow is part of Sun International's Sunlux Collection, which links world-class hotels in Africa's Golden Triangle, including Cape Town and Victoria Falls, on the Zambia-Zimbabwe border. For full details and bookings visit www.suninternational.com.

South African Airways (SAA) has linked with code share partner Virgin Australia to offer return fares from major Australian airports to Johannesburg starting from $1413 return, including taxes, for advance purchases. Return business class fares including taxes start from $4633. For more information and reservations call 1300 435 972 or see www.flysaa.com.au

      

It's a family affair as grape growers become star wine producers

The Kalleske family does not like to rush things.

The Kalleskes have been farming and growing grapes outside the village of Greenock in South Australia's Barossa Valley since 1853.

Tony and Troy Kalleske 

They have long been known as one of the region's leading grape-growing families – selling quality fruit to many of the region's leading producers.

But it was only just over a decade ago that seventh generation family member, Troy Kalleske, together with his brother, Tony, built the Kalleske winery and made the family's first wines, released in 2004.

The winery is situated on the family estate, where traditional wine-making techniques ensure the vineyard realises its full potential.

The vineyard is managed by Troy's and Tony’s parents, John and Lorraine, and brother, Kym and is planted with shiraz, grenache, cabernet sauvignon, semillon, chenin blanc, mataro, petit verdot, durif, viognier, tempranillo and zinfandel.

The vines vary in age with the oldest remaining vineyard dating back to 1875 and an overall average vine age of about 50 years. The vineyard is low yielding with all grapes grown organically and biodynamically and the winery is also certified biodynamic/organic.

The Kalleske family say sustainable farming has worked for them for generations and they see themselves as “caretakers of the land” who not only want to maintain the environment but improve it for future generations.

All Kalleske wines are estate grown and vinified with minimalist wine-making techniques.

In 2013, Kalleske was named best organic wine producer of the year at the AWC International Wine Challenge in Vienna, Austria, one of the world's most prestigious wine competitions, as well as being the sustainability award winner at the 2013 South Australian Regional Awards.

“Genuine sustainability and careful environmental practices continue to be at the core of Kalleske farming, grape growing and wine making.” says Troy Kalleske.

“Certified organic and biodynamic practices in the vineyard and winery ensure the soil, air and waterways are not polluted with synthetic chemicals and fertilisers.

“Organic/biodynamic farming is not only good for the environment but it ensures the grapes produced are more wholesome with vitality and integrity that reflect the origins of our Kalleske vineyard.

“Farming the vineyard organically and biodynamically is the truly natural way of farming ensuring ultimate sustainability, authenticity and quality. It is all about balance and harmony.”

And the Kalleskes do not just pay lip service to sustainability, with Troy saying the farm should be as self-sufficient as possible.

Solar energy runs the entire winery, while a 250,000-litre rainwater tank captures water from the winery and farm sheds. And in the winery itself everything is kept simple.

“We rely on natural yeasts, do not use added tannins or fining agents and the wines are naturally clarified through gravity (racking) without filtration,” says Troy.

Today the Kalleske range includes wines ranging from $120 a bottle to $18 – a total of 8,000 cases a year that are exported around the world. 

Of course the Kalleskes also took their time launching a cellar door – but after a year or two of procrastination one is now open at 6 Murray Street in sleepy Greenock. Wine is available for tasting by the glass and bottle seven days a week from 10am-5pm, along with regional food platters (above right). 

www.kalleske.com 

A delightful high tea in the shadow of Table Mountain

Think of high tea and you probably think of grand but discreet English hotels like The Ritz, Claridge's or Brown's.  

Or maybe the venerable Tiffin Room at Raffles Hotel in Singapore, or the wonderful Eastern & Oriental in Penang, Malaysia, both destinations steps back in time and pace. 

Add the The Table Bay Hotel on the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town to this list of world-class venues; high tea here comes in three different courses, with impeccable service and starts from around R200 ($20), when tea at The Ritz can set you back four times as much. 

The Table Bay Hotel is Cape Town's ultimate address - right on the water with dramatic views of Table Mountain. Opened in May 1997 by none other than iconic former South African president Nelson Mandela, this gracious hostelry is a member of the Leading Hotels of the World group and its afternoon high teas are extremely popular with both locals and visitors. It pays to book.  

Tea is served against the stunning backdrop of the working harbour, Table Mountain and the Atlantic Ocean - and talented pastry chef Bhupender (Bobby) Kumar has some surprises in store for debutants, while also acknowledging gluten intolerant, dairy intolerant and Halal customers. 

I was happy to eat everything on offer, and was told the high tea menu changes on a regular basis - although some items may not be removed, due to popular demand. 

The R200 starting point gets you three courses and three teas from an extensive tea menu. For an extra R50 ($5) you get a glass of one of South Africa's better sparkling wines, the Graham Beck Brut NV, and for R315 there is a glass of Taittinger Brut NV.

Given South Africa's ludicrously low prices it would be a crime not to go the whole hog. 

The first course is served at your table in the clubby atmosphere of the hotel lounge; maybe a broccoli and leek or smoled snoek and fennel quiche, apple and thyme chicken sausage roll, Cape Malay-style chicken mayo sandwiches, smoked snoek and trout with chive crème fraiche sandwiches, or perhaps rare roast beef in choux pastry with rocket, or a julienne of summer vegetable in a rice paper roll. 

There is a range of loose leaf teas to select from, maybe a Gnawa green tea from China, or perhaps a Margaret’s Hope from Darjeeling, India. 

Next up, scones, also served at the table by the very capable staff; with a choice of buttermilk or chocolate chip scones, or both, served with fresh clotted cream (lots of it), lemon curd and a selection of artisan jams, matched to perhaps Earl Grey or classic English Breakfast tea, or a local Good Hope blend. 

This is followed by cakes and pastries from the high tea buffet; a mouthwatering selection of sweet delights from around the world, including two Australian favourites; a mixed berry pavlova and Lamingtons. Other choices vary day-to-day but include lemon meringue tarts, rainbow sponge cake (a tribute to the "new" rainbow nation of South Africa, triple chocolate cupcakes, cream cheese-granadilla cake and a quite bewildering array of other delights. 

These can be matched maybe with South African rooibos tea (chef Kumar's choice), or  any one of a wide selection from the menu. 

Afternoon tea here can easily last a couple of hours and is a wonderful break from the fast-paced world outside the Table Bay Hotel. It is highly recommended.

The Table Bay Hotel, Quay 6, Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, Cape Town, 8001. +27 21 406 5000, www.suninternational.com/table-bay is one of the SunLux Collection, a group of luxury hotels in southern Africa. For full details and bookings visit www.suninternational.com.

South African Airways (SAA) has linked with code share partner Virgin Australia to offer return fares from major Australian airports to Johannesburg. SAA operates to 40 destinations worldwide with daily direct flights from Perth to Johannesburg with connections from all major Australian cities. 1300 435 972 or see www.flysaa.com.au. 

Oh please shut up, you stupid, stupid people!

If you opt to save money and fly with a low-cost carrier than you are making a travel deal with the devil. 

If you choose to pay $29 to fly from Hobart to Melbourne with Tiger, or $200 to jet from Melbourne to Bali with Air Asia, then you pay your money and take your chances. 

These are budget flights with all the risks that suggests; you will not get a meal unless you are willing to pay for it, your flight may be cancelled or delayed with no come back, and you'll pay for every kilo your luggage is over the allotted weight limit. 

Budget airlines like EasyJet, Ryanair, even Jetstar, offer cheap flights, but you don't choose to fly with them if you absolutely, definitely have to be somewhere on a specific date or time. 

Unlike the major carriers, if they have an issue they are often unable, or unwilling, to call up a replacement plane at a minute's notice. 

If you've decided to go the cheap route and subsequently miss out on 12 hours of your holiday so be it. And if you book a flight on December 27 for a wedding in Bali on December 28 then you are either a moron, or a gambler willing to roll the dice and risk missing the big day. 

That's particularly the case over Christmas, New Year and Easter when flights are jam-packed and delays - for many different reasons - are common. 

When is why I have little sympathy for holidaymakers who "had travel plans thrown into disarray" after budget airline AirAsia X cancelled direct flights from Melbourne to Bali with only days' notice and routed its passengers through Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, adding seven hours to their journey time. 
  

The Malaysian airline was forced to cancel the flights after it failed to gain approval for the new route, which was due to start on December 26, from Australian and Indonesian aviation authorities. 

That may be the airline's fault, or maybe the Australian bureaucrats are all away on holiday and no one is answering the phone.    

Passengers received text messages on Christmas Day notifying them that flights from Boxing Day onwards had been cancelled and they would instead be flown to Bali via Kuala Lumpur, The Age reported.

Angry flyers rounded on the airline on social media, complaining they had paid for accommodation and transfers that they would not be able to use (err that's what travel insurance is for). 

One woman blamed the flight change for "wrecking our family Christmas and my daughters wedding (sic)." 

Apparently these geniuses had not thought to allow even a day in case of flight delays, expecting to leap straight off their flight and head for the ceremony. 

That's like having a ticket to the AFL Grand Final and landing in Melbourne two hours before kick-off. It's fraught with danger. 

Even if you travel regularly with full-fare carriers you are used to flights being delayed - often by up to several hours. It is not like catching the 113 bus where if you miss one another will be along 10 minutes later.  

Do your research and allow time for things to go wrong if you opt to fly on the lowest possible fare. If you don't you are a bloody idiot.