Debbie Lauritz takes coveted winemaking role

Debbie Lauritz has been appointed head winemaker - Mudgee for Robert Oatley Vineyards.

 

Lauritz has been senior winemaker for Cumulus Wines for a decade and will be supported by David Richards, also ex Cumulus, who moved to Mudgee earlier this year when ROV began processing for Cumulus Wines at the family’s Montrose winery.

The appointments follow the departure of Rob and Pia Merrick who moved to Victoria earlier this year to pursue other career options.

Lauritz is an experienced wine show judge and has also worked in Alsace (France), Marlborough (NZ) and Niagara (Canada). She has also made her own range for Naked Wines.

“This augers well for ROV” said the group's director of winemaking Larry Cherubino.

“Debbie will be working with a wide range of regions from across the country – she is a very experienced and talented winemaker. Additionally, her offsider David Richards is a terrific new appointment.”

How Australian wine shows really work

We are in peak Australian wine show season right now. From Sydney to Tasmania, judges have been swirling, sniffing and spitting. 

There are literally dozens of Australian wine shows every year – but the wine-drinking public generally have no idea how system works. 

First wins gold, second gets silver and third gets bronze? Nothing quite that simple. You can win a gold medal for coming 15th in a particular class. Sounds crazy? Stay tuned. 

Wine shows are designed as ways to sell wines using little gold stickers. 

From those run by Royal Agricultural Societies (e.g. Sydney Royal Wine Show), to smaller regional shows; niche shows like the Australian Sparkling Wine Show; private shows such as the Sydney International Wine Competition (where finalists are judged with food), and specialist international challenges (the Canberra International Riesling Challenge, for instance) the judging process is pretty consistent.

That's the case even at tiny sub-shows like the Taste of Tasmania, or even the Bream Creek Show.

To ensure that they are judged fairly, wines are grouped into classes according to their variety (or blend - and sometimes, their vintage). 

The judging panel comprises three industry experts (winemakers, media etc), who taste "blind"- with no knowledge of what the wines are - and in silence. 

Once all the wines from a class have been tasted, the panel compares scores and impressions, and, in consultation with the panel chair, agrees a consensus score.

The highest scoring gold medal winners advance through to Trophy judging at the end of the show. Trophies, not gold medals, are the most coveted awards in the Australian system.

At the recent Royal Melbourne Wine Awards, no fewer than 32 trophies were awarded. 

It is possible that a panel could award a dozen gold medals in any particular class - or hundreds during one show. Any wine scoring over 18.5 points using the traditional 20-point system is scored gold. It takes 95 points under the the 100-point system. 

Winning over 17 points earns a silver medal and 15.5 or more merits a bronze. So not like the Olympics at all. 

There are also several other issues. Panel chairs may instruct judges to look for certain characteristics, perhaps ruling out very good, but heavily oaked wines. And some judges are able to identify wines from their winery - or even region - at 20 paces, giving them high scores and arguing their merits. 

Also, no judge's palate can hope to be as sharp on shiraz No.80 in a line-up as it was on No.1.

So if you are buying gold medallists thinking you are drinking the best of the best, think again.    

New Zealand wine to mark a memorable milestone

Central Otago pinot noir vines

This September will mark 200 years since the first planting of a grapevine in New Zealand, a stat that might surprise many wine experts.

From the humble beginnings of a few vines planted 200 years ago in the Bay of Islands, the New Zealand wine industry has grown to become a major export earner, with an international reputation for premium, diverse and sustainable wines.

Sauvignon blancs from Marlborough and pinot noirs from Central Otago are known all over the wine-drinking world. 

It may, however, surprise many connoisseurs to learn that New Zealand’s wine story is older than they think.

Reverend Samuel Marsden, who was Chaplain to New South Wales (1765-1838), records September 25, 1819, as the day he planted a grape vine in the fertile grounds beside the Stone Store, at Kerikeri in New Zealand's Bay of Islands. 

That pioneering vine also gave New Zealand’s wine heritage a unique story as one of very few countries in the world where the exact date of the planting of the first vines is recorded.

Throughout the 19th and early 20th century, a significant number of European arrivals established vineyards in different regions, contributing to the early establishment of the diverse wine regions of New Zealand. 

But it wasn’t until the second half of the last century that a new wave of Kiwi viticulturalists and winemakers began to earn their place in the international wine world. Until then the major grape in New Zealand was the mediocre Muller-Thurgau. 

Today, the New Zealand wine industry consists of over 700 wineries and more than 600 grape growers, with its growing success depending strongly on the commitment and passion of the people behind it.

Since the 1990s, there has been an evolution in the grape varieties planted throughout New Zealand. Sauvignon blanc is now the most widely planted variety, accounting for 76% of total production, followed by pinot noir and chardonnay.

Around 98% of New Zealand’s vineyard production land is certified under Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ), a voluntary scheme that is unmatched anywhere in the world.

New Zealand Winegrowers will be marking the 200-year anniversary of the first vine planting with an event that includes a ceremonial re-planting at the historic Stone Store, followed by a regional wine tasting and dinner on the nearby Waitangi Treaty Grounds.

In his diary, Marsden prophesied: "New Zealand promises to be very favourable to the vine, as far as I can judge at present of the nature of the soil and climate. Should the vine succeed, it will prove of vast importance in this part of the globe."

The first recorded New Zealand wine was made in the Bay of Islands in the 1830s.

The first wine-maker was James Busby – representative of the British Crown in New Zealand.

Busby lived in what is now known as the Treaty House in the Treaty Grounds at Waitangi.

When French naval explorer Jules Dumont d’Urville (commanding officer on the Astrolabe) visited the Bay of Islands in 1840, he was disappointed to find Busby was not at home.

d’Urville, however, sampled Busby’s wine and subsequently penned New Zealand’s first wine review: "With great pleasure I agreed to taste the product of the vineyard that I had just seen. I was given a light white wine, very sparkling, and delicious to taste, which I enjoyed very much."

Chinese swoop to buy Knappstein winery and vines

The Knappstein winery and several associated vineyards in the Clare Valley have been sold by global congolmerate Accolade Wines following a strategic review of the business.

Australian Yinmore Wines Pty Ltd (Yinmore Wines), a Chinese-owned company based in Kunming, will acquire the Knappstein winemaking facility in Clare, five associated vineyards and the Knappstein label. No price was disclosed. 

The Knappstein business was in 1969 founded by Tim and Annie Knappstein as Enterprise Wines and has gone through changes of ownership since, including Petaluma, subsequently part of Lion Nathan.

Accolade will continue to distribute the Knappstein range of wines until the new owners have determined their sales and marketing strategy.

Yinmore last year purchased Wickham Estate vineyard in McLaren Vale, also in South Australia.

The Australian subsidiary of Yinmore Sugar, part of Chinese conglomerate Bright Food Group, bought the historic 42-hectare Wickham Estate with 24 hectares of vines for an undisclosed price

Excluded from the new sale agreement are Accolade’s two remaining Clare Valley vineyards, over which it will retain ownership to ensure supply of riesling grapes to its Petaluma, Hardys and Leasingham brands.

The sale follows Accolade’s review of its global operational footprint.

As part of the same review, Accolade is considering the potential sale of the Houghton winery in Western Australia’s Swan Valley. The Houghton sale process is continuing.

Celebrating the wines of Mudgee in country style

Grapes have been grown in the Mudgee region in central western New South Wales for around 160 years. 

Such is Mudgee's love affair with the wine grape that it is home to a wine and food festival that runs over a whole month. 

The Mudgee Wine + Food Festival, which dates back to 1979, will be held from September 7 to October 7 having grown impressively over four decades.

Flavours of Mudgee. Pic: Amber Hooper 

I tasted several delicious Mudgee cabernets last night thanks to David Cumming of Define Wine, an indefatigable marketer of the region. 

Stars included familiar names like Hungtington Estate 2014 Special Reserve Cabernet and Robert Stein 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon, along with lesser-known names like organic duo 2016 Guneemooroo and Vinfera 2016 (my standout).

These wines, along with wines and food from all of the Mudgee region, will be on show during the 40th Mudgee Wine + Food Festival. 
  
The following signature events for the festival will be complemented by a diverse range of experiences at each of Mudgee’s cellar doors during the month.

# 40th Anniversary Festival ‘Ruby’ Launch
Saturday, September 7, Craigmoor Pavilion, 6-9pm

# Mudgee Wine Show Trophy Dinner
Friday, September 13, Putta Bucca House, 6.30-10pm

# Go Tasting
Saturday, September 14, AREC Pavilion, from 5.30pm

# Go Grazing
Saturday, September 21, Blue Wren Hall, from 6.30pm 

# Wednesday Night Wine
Wednesday September 25, Roth’s Wine Bar, from 6pm

# Flavours of Mudgee
Saturday, September 28, Mudgee CBD from 4-8pm

Full details of the 40th Mudgee Wine + Food Festival, along with ticketing, will be published on their website www.visitmudgeeregion.com.au.

Kiwi love affair with amber ale

Which country has more breweries per capita than anywhere else in the world?

You may be surprised by the answer, but a warm welcome and a cold beer are never far away in New Zealand, or so New Zealand Tourism reports.

The Kiwi brewing industry has boomed in recent years and small boutique breweries are leading the charge. 

A New Zealand Institute of Economic Research report on behalf of the Brewers Association of New Zealand (BANZ) found there were 218 breweries in 2019 compared with just 65 in 2012.

Those statistics, however, are disputed by many beer lovers.

What is certainly true is that thanks to a rapid rise in breweries, beer tourism in New Zealand is flourishing, with more operators than ever offering beer tours across New Zealand.

The Brewers Guild of New Zealand has launched a website this year called the New Zealand Ale Trail, which helps guide thirsty travellers to the best breweries around the country.

While food and wine festivals are still popular in New Zealand, beer festivals are quickly becoming a favourite with locals and international visitors.

This year saw the first edition of the Gisborne Beer Festival, while Nelson’s MarchFest is seeing a 20% rise in attendance year-on-year.

New Zealand’s premier beer festival Beervana is held annually in August.

IPAs, red ales and sour beers are regulars on taps around the country and there are brewers, tour guides and event organisers waiting to welcome visiting beer lovers.

Tour operators include BrewBus and Keith Prenne’s Craft Beer Tour of New Zealand. 

For details see: www.nzaletrail.com