Wine fashions: all change in 2015

It is impossible to predict wine fashions but I've looked deep into my crystal ball to see what styles will be pushing our buttons over the next 12 months. 

“Sustainable” wines

Sustainability is the latest wine buzzword with savvy producers making sure their vineyards are treated with the utmost respect so they will continue to produce great fruit for future generations.

Steve and Monique Lubiana in their vineyards

While the virtues of wines produced using biodynamic or organic methods are becoming more and more recognised, even more mainstream winemakers are aiming to make their vineyard practices sustainable.

Geographical and weather patterns in certain regions make it unrealistic for some wine producers to commit to organic or biodynamic certification, but a growing number are following those principles whenever possible.

In the cool-climate regions of Tasmania, for instance, many vineyards need to be sprayed with chemicals to avoid infestations of diseases such as downy and powdery mildew but even here there are a brave handful pushing the boundaries.

Despite advice to the contrary, Stefano Lubiana in the Derwent Valley has full biodynamic certification, saying he is convinced careful vineyard management will negate any need for chemical spraying.

In McLaren Vale, South Australia, home to some of Australia’s best reds and the region with some of the highest vineyard prices in Australia, almost one-third of all vineyards are now committed to voluntary sustainable agriculture in line with the McLaren Vale Sustainable Winegrowing Australia Program.

The program looks at soil health, biodiversity, pest and disease management, water management, waste management and social relations and is seen as a signpost to environmentally friendly wine production.

And, of course, leading biodynamic producers like Henschke, Cullen, Krinklewood, Castagna, Kalleske and others offer wines that are both sustainable and easy to find.

Picking grapes at Henschke 

Rare grape varieties

What once were fringe varieties like pinot gris/grigio, merlot and vermentino have become accepted as mainstream and any time we walk into a bottle shop nowadays there is a whole new wave of alternative varieties vying for our attention.

Overall, Australian winemakers are using well over 150 different grape varieties, constantly looking for the “next big thing” as well as grapes that are resistant to heat as global warming becomes an increasing threat in our warmer viticultural regions.

Perhaps the Spanish red grape mencia will be all the rage, or the little-known bonvedro, rare even in Portugal, Spain and northern Italy and which until recently was mis-identified as carignan from France?

Or perhaps the German variety schönburger, or maybe Saint-Macaire, a French grape that thrives in the warm climes of the Riverina?

Other contenders include Greek varieties assyrtiko and mavrodaphne, both of which are on the radar of wineries like Jim Barry and Brown Brothers, the Spanish red grape graciano, which is enjoying a resurgence in popularity, or maybe the Austrian grapes zweigelt and blaufrankisch.

“Orange” or natural wines

There has been a huge rise in the popularity of “natural” wines – skin contact-produced wines that often have an orange or amber hue – and these styles are extremely popular with sommeliers.

While there is no official definition, "natural" wine is generally understood to contain no added acid or yeast and less sulphur dioxide than more conventionally made wine, and it is often unclarified. The wines are often whites made using the techniques more often used for red wine making.

Followers of this approach are also described as minimal intervention winemakers and include Anton Von Klopper (Lucy Margaux), James Erskine (Jauma) and Tom Shobbrook (Shobbrook), among others, including many practitioners in Friuli, Italy, and the Swartland region of South Africa.

Natural wines, usually made in tiny quantities by committed artisan producers, can by their very nature sometimes be volatile, or taste oxidised when they are older, but their fans say they have greater texture and their pronounced tannin and phenolic profiles make them extremely food friendly.

A sad and strange place to be stranded in on a Sunday afternoon

I'm sure I have found myself in stranger places than Chilecito, a small, tired-looking cactus-dotted town in the dusty Argentine desert country of La Rioja. But I simply can't recall one.

I just spent an hour or so on a Sunday afternoon strolling the main square and side streets of Chilecito.

The square was close to deserted apart from a pair of neglected-looking ponies being offered as kids' rides. No takers.

There were a couple of ice creams stalls, one manned by a sad-eyed teenager girl with tattoos and a runny nose, a few cowering dogs and some families emerging after their Sunday siesta. Oh. And a couple of local morons driving around and around with Latino music blaring loudly from their beat-up vehicles.

Chilecito has the look of a film set for a Wild West movie; except for a handful of modern buildings it looks as if it hasn't changed for 50 years.

One of those modern buildings is the M.A.C. Royal Suites Chilecito - a totally out of place modern hotel with its own casino.

Bizarrely, the main door to the Howard Johnson-managed hotel (all mod cons, spa and free wifi) was locked when we arrived. And our group appeared to be the only guests. But perhaps that is no surprise when the asking price for a single room is apparently $US200 a night.

I suspect very few of the locals would earn anywhere near the cost of a room for the night for a month's worth of work.

The only time Chilecito has made the news is when a 12-year-old girl gave birth to twins - and when yet another Dakar Rally competitor ded in an accident outside town. 

So what am I doing here, you may well ask? 

I'm on a famil trip with Wines of Argentina but after a five-hour light plane ride that was hot and bumpy I demurred, rather rudely, I admit, when told the winery that was our evening destination was a three-hour round road trip away.

I hoped a walk through town would ease my headache, but it is still throbbing away. It just seems a depressing place, with signs demanding "justice" for some little girl posted mysteriously on power poles.

My guide book tells me that Chilecito is a town of history, art, culture and historic monuments. There is, apparently, a fascinating museum at an old mine cable car station, and the rocky outcrops overlooking the town are probably perfect for hiking and mountain biking. From my hotel window I can see a giant statue of Jesus Christ. 

I've tried some of the local wines from the La Riojana co-op, too, and they are very good.

Maybe I just hit Chilecito on the wrong day. Maybe I am just immune to its many charms. But either way I can't see myself rushing back.

Exploring the many faces of the Mornington Peninsula

There are golf courses galore; cellar doors with world-class restaurants and breathtakingly beautiful countryside. And best of all the Mornington Peninsula is just a one-hour drive south of Melbourne. 

The Green Olive at Red Hill

It is not so long ago that the peninsula was a sleepy hollow where Melbourne professionals had weekenders, or holiday homes. Other than over the busy summer holidays it was a haven of tranquillity.

But the secret hideaway of Melbourne’s movers and shakers is a secret no more. Over the past three decades winemakers and boutique food producers have descended – enticed by both the region's beauty and a cool-maritime climate.

The breezes from Port Phillip Bay and Bass Strait ideal for producing fine wines, growing olives and making artisanal cheeses.

Year round, exploring the peninsula will lead visitors to lively produce markets and roadside stalls selling seasonal produce.

The list of wineries is a roll call of Victoria's finest boutique producers: Hurley Vineyard, Ten Minutes by Tractor, Kooyong/Port Phillip Estate, Eldridge Estate, Foxeys Hangout, Ocean Eight, Paringa Estate, Paradigm Hill, Polperro, Stonier, Crittenden Estate, Garagiste, Main Ridge and Yabby Lake among them.

Lunch at Yabby Lake Vineyard

Today there are over 170 vineyards and more than 50 cellar doors as you wind your way round the confusingly zigzag roads that traverse Red Hill, Merricks, Main Ridge, Balnarring and Moorooduc – and the varieties range from pinot noir and chardonnay to less common varieties including arneis and sangiovese.

Many of the best gourmet producers are members of the new Wine Food Farmgate initiative showcasing the best of the area, which is today the most expensive vineyard land in Australia. 

And the vignerons have helped create an area that now boasts dozens of appealing eateries and a range of great places to stay.

And it is very much a region on the move with something new to discover every time you visit, from cider producers, craft brewers in most unlikely settings as well as hot springs retreats and mazes. 

Apples at Mock Orchards

Yet there are still surprises to be stumbled upon; think hidden truffle groves that can only be explored with the aid of companies like Mornington Peninsula Experience Tours, or craft breweries – with Mornington Peninsula Brewery and Red Hill Brewery leading the charge. 

Visitors can arrange tours of the industrial-style Mornington Peninsula Brewery and learn more about the complex combination of malted barley and hops. This craft brewery is hidden away in an industrial estate but is hugely popular with locals and visitors alike with a constantly changing range of beers. The Brewery Bar is known for its gourmet pizzas and features live music on Sundays.

Also check out Bass and Flinders Distillery. Founded five years ago, this tiny artisan distillery is tucked away behind the Darling Park winery and offers tastings of small-batch gins and vodkas, among a large range of spirits, all made using local products.

# Mock Orchards: A rustic farm gate operation where visitors can arrive by car, horse or bike to sample a range of biodynamic ciders and fruit juices. The Mock family has been growing apples since 1895.

# Polperro: Open just a few months on the estate previously known as Vines of Red Hill, Polperro has a bistro serving refined yet casual food, a tiny wine bar, wine tasting room and four refurbished studio apartments with spa baths and vineyard views. Think dishes like duck cassoulet and mushroom brioche, or delicious smoked fish croquettes and wines under the Polperro and Even Keel labels.

Vineyards at Port Phillip Estate  

# Green Olive: This 27-acre sustainable farm is the closest thing Australia has to an “agriturismo” experience. Guests are offered the chance to sample and eat produce grown or raised on the property; ranging from sheep to olives.

And these relatively new experiences are only scratching the surface of what the peninsula has to offer.

The recently inaugurated Wine Food Farmgate trail is the perfect introduction to the region's many gourmet attractions. 

For more information: Mornington Peninsula Tourism, (03) 5987 3078, www.visitmorningtonpeninsula.org. See www.winefoodfarmgate.com.au. 

# A version of this story first appeared in Golf Magazine Australia 

Combining a classic rail adventure with wild water rafting

I've done one of these adventures, and thoroughly enjoyed it - and I'm very keen to sample the second when the weather warms up in Tasmania. 

The West Coast Wilderness Railway has teamed up with King River Rafting Company to offer an exciting-sounding new journey: Steam, River and Raft.

This full-day experience offers guests the opportunity to ride the West Coast Wilderness Railway before being transferred to the King River for an afternoon of rafting and generous hospitality in beautiful natural surroundings.

The journey begins at 9am in Queenstown on board the historic steam train, where guests enjoy wilderness vistas as they traverse many bridges enjoying spectacular views of the majestic King River and Gorge, while receiving enlightening commentary about the region’s rich and colourful history. 

This is one of the best rail journeys I've ever done.

After venturing deep into the rainforest to Dubbil Barril station, guests depart the steam train and swap the comfort of the restored heritage carriages for inflatable rafts, kicking off their river adventure with the King River Rafting Company.

Experienced guides navigate guests through the gentle rapids and provide a packed lunch on the banks of river. The rafts then venture on through some more stunning scenery to Macquarie Harbour, where guests are collected and transported back to where the journey all began in Queenstown, returning at 5pm.

West Coast Wilderness Railway General Manager Michael Saville said there is a great appetite from visitors for new experiences on the West Coast of the Apple Isle.

“We are always looking for new ways to develop on our existing railway experience so we can continue drawing visitors across to Tasmania’s West Coast. What better way than to combine forces with our fellow tourism operators, the King River Rafting Company to provide this exciting new journey?

“We’re thrilled to share we’ve had an 85 per cent increase in passenger numbers from January 2014 to January 2015. In addition, according to the Royal Automobile Club of Tasmania (RACT), visitor numbers to the West Coast have grown by 40 per cent in the same period, which the RACT partly attributes to the re-opening of the West Coast Wilderness Railway.”

The Steam, River and Raft adventure resumes in the summer season and costs $230 per person, including morning tea, lunch and afternoon tea. The rafting is suitable for people aged 10-70. Maximum guests on each departure is 16 and bookings are essential.

For information and reservations visit www.wcwr.com.au, email enquiries@wcwr.com.au or call +61 3 6471 0100.

Has Singapore Airlines lost its way?

A decade or so ago just about everyone had a Nokia mobile phone. The Finnish company was at the cutting edge of phone technology and its competitors' offerings paled into insignificance. 

Then along came Apple's iPhone and Nokia paid a heavy price for its complacency and not keeping an eye on the opposition. 

After four flights on Singapore Airlines over the past week, it occurs to me that the one-time undisputed leader in the premium airline category seems to be suffering from similar complacency. 

Whereas the Singapore Girl was once "a great way to fly" she's now just average, a crone trailing in the wake of innovative and well-funded rivals like Emirates, Etihad and Qatar, who offer slicker service, better meals and wider entertainment choices.  

My flights took me from Melbourne to Singapore and on to Malé in the Maldives and back; legs of around seven hours and four and a half hours respectively. No much-vaunted A380s to be seen here.

And while none of the legs were shockers, only one was truly comfortable - the Malé to Singapore leg on a three-quarters empty plane. On others seats were cramped, the amenities pack a laughable pair of socks and dud toothbrush. 

Despite my being a Virgin Australia gold frequent flyer, Singapore completely ignored that fact on the first two legs, giving me the middle seat in a full row of three both times. Yep, that's partner priority for you. I got preferred aisle seats on the way back after asking their PR company for help. If you are dealing with Singapore it pays to insist on your rights.

And the service was sometimes lacklustre, too. Not rude, just not as glossy as we've come to expect from Singapore and its carefully polished image of smiling superiority. 

Apart from one stunning sambal fish dish, the food was also disappointing; all around me people were rejecting the soggy pasta salad and stale cake on the final leg to Melbourne. The food offerings on budget airline Air Asia are vastly superior to this dross. 

The wines offered in economy (where I fly 90% of the time) were a French red and two whites; generic and barely fit for purpose. Clearly not a priority for "the world's most-awarded airline".

I spoke to two Singapore Airways staffers, who indicated that aging equipment and budget cuts were to blame for the falling standards. 

The old-style IFE system on one Boeing 777-300 was almost impossible to listen to through the crackles, while on another leg it was hard to get a drink of water during the night after all the cabin crew disappeared. And the TV screens were nowhere near the size or quality of those in this supplied picture (above).

I'm not saying, for a minute, that Singapore is a dud airline. It still has a formidable reputation for the quality of its business- and first-class service. And its economy service is, well, serviceable.

What I am arguing is that whereas it was once the automatic first option of any economy-class traveller with a choice of carriers; that is no longer the case. I elected to fly Singapore this time over several others flying similar routes; but no more. There are several options as good, or better. 

It seems clear to me that Singapore Airlines is resting on its laurels after years of acclaim. Let's hope it doesn't end up going the way of Nokia, which was swallowed up by Microsoft. 

It somehow just seems wrong for an icon to risk becoming mediocre.        

Is this the best hotel address in Perth?

Perth is a city on the move; full of swagger and bravado. And its hotels can be much the same; all swish, no substance.

I've sampled several Perth hotels over the past couple of years and none has impressed me quite as much as the Best Western Premier Terrace Hotel in the heart of downtown.

The service here is top-notch; a personal greeting, someone to guide you to your room and carry your bags, a person on the desk who has time to chat and offer local suggestions. Free newspapers. Old-fashioned courtesy rules here.

Situated in Perth's West End, right on bustling St George's Terrace, the hotel was once the heritage-listed St George's House, built in 1892 by the Anglican Church and reborn three years ago as a boutique hotel with a quiet charm. 

The Terrace features seven suites and eight junior suites and is popular with business people, who enjoy the Bang and Olufsen sound and television systems, an iPad, Apple TV and Foxtel IQ, as well as the reliably good fast and free wifi. 

Less impressive are the many light fittings (I never learnt how to get the bathroom ones to work properly), although the bed was extremely comfortable. 

It's probably not the best place to bring your tetchy maiden aunt, however, with (tasteful) paintings in both rooms and public spaces that caused me to ask if the place had once been a brothel.    

The Terrace restaurant is a meeting place of the city's smart minds and bodies, both in suits and jeans, and a superb spot for a late afternoon wine or beer. 

There is an excellent wine list (over 500 labels) and on-site sommelier. I'm told that ladies who lunch enjoy high tea in the afternoons (and no doubt I would as well). 

It's a good lunch option, too, with a choice of seven dishes every Monday to Saturday from 12-3pm for $25 including a glass of beer, wine, soft drink, coffee or tea. 

I'm sorry I cannot be totally positive. When a fellow guest and I descended for breakfast at the advertised time of 6.30am, the cook was nowhere to be found. With an early flight to catch I had to settle for a breakfast juice from an apologetic young waitress.

It is testimony to how impressed I was by the hotel overall that this glitch would not prevent me from staying again. One Twitter contact described it as "the best Best Western ever". 

Not for nothing has it collected a swag of awards in its three years of existence, I guess. A range of packages are available, including two weekend nights from $499 for a couple in a deluxe room.  

Best Western Premier Terrace Hotel, 237 St George's Terrace, Perth, WA 6000. www.terracehotelperth.com.au.