A new Bali resort offers bargain introductory rates

A brand new luxury hotel in Bali for around $80 per couple per night, including all taxes? 

Usually if something something sounds too good to be true that means it is too good to be true, but this offer comes from the respected Accor group, so I am passing on the info without having reviewed the hotel. 

Mercure Bali Legian is the largest four-star hotel in Legian Kelod and opens for business on December 7 with an opening rate of 888,000 IDR per night per room, including 21% taxes. 

That's around $80 per couple per night at current exchange rates, making the first night virtually free following the abolition of the absurd rip-off that was the Visa on Arrival scheme for Australians. 

The eco-friendly Mercure is set one block back from the quiet end of Legian beach, but in the heart of the boutiques, markets, restaurants, bars and warungs that make the area so popular. 

The hotel features natural timber finishes, open-air terraces, an infinity pool deck and bar on the fourth floor and a large pool area outside Ancak restaurant.

Some of the 321 rooms have their own private plunge pools while others come with over-sized decks overlooking either the lobby sculpture or pool area.

Upgrade to a Deluxe room for only 200,000 IDR (around $20 at current exchange rates) during the opening special period and get a room with large private balcony.

The hotel also offers free wi-fi, a fitness centre, kids club, spa and business centre and each room has international power sockets, air conditioning, tea and coffee making facilities and in-room safe.

There is a free hop on-hop off shuttle service to key Bali drop-off points.

Rooms cost from 888,000 IDR or with breakfast for two for 908.000 IDR. I'm told the prices are low because the hotel is not yet on the Accor booking system and is being promoted largely by social media and word of mouth.  

For special pre-opening “Mates Rates” that can be booked until March 31, 2015, email directly to Reservation@mercurebalilegian.com

As an exclusive offer to the first 100 Australians that book this “Mates Rate” they will get a free 20-minute Balinese massage or a foot massage in the Lavare Spa. 

Bookings can be made from now until March 31 for travel until June 2015 with some black-out dates over Christmas and New Year’s Eve.

Hobart gets a new dining hot spot with a South American accent

It has been open for less than two weeks but Hobart's latest dining sensation, Frank, is packed to the rafters and rocking the town with South American-style dishes and a stylish global wine list. 

Kif Weber, one of the brains behind Smolt, and originally Launceston's Mud, says: "If we are going to have a go at this we are going to have a proper go." And this place with its modern decor and buzzing atmosphere has taken off in a hurry.

Frank is situated on Franklin Wharf, across the road from Fish Frenzy and T42, and is open seven days a week for both lunch and dinner. The better tables have water views, but it doesn't really matter where you sit. The vibe is the thing. 

Unlike many Hobart restaurants, Frank will keep its kitchen open until 11pm most nights, offering a rare late-night dining experience, but locals are just as welcome to pop in for a pre-dinner scallop empanada and a glass of refreshing torrontes. 

Frank aims to cater for a wide range of tastes; and on the evidence of our Wednesday night visit it is likely to please most of them. 

The service is friendly and slick, the waitrons make every effort to accurately describe unfamiliar dishes and the with early Led Zep on the sound system the place is cranking. Tables range from a well-known food reviewer for the national paper, a Hobart city alderman and his group of four and a family who look like infrequent diners out but are clearly having a ball. 

On the advice of the astute duo from http://livinglovinghobart.blogspot.com.au/ we got there as soon as we could - and were told the place has been busy from day one. So make sure to book. 

The seafood ceviche is a standout

Asado - grilled meats - and Australian/South American fusion dishes are the go-to items here with their sweet, smoky flavours. 

Several of the dishes are designed to be shared, but we opted for traditional starters and mains. The prawn, scallop and white fish ceviche with "leche de tigre" - lime juice, fish juice and spices ($21) - was outstanding; a melt in the mouth experience. 

While a tad chewy, the grilled octopus with "causa, pebre salsa and coriander" ($20) was flavoursome and interesting. The Peruvian dish causa is apparently a cold mashed potato salad.

When it comes to mains, the focus is firmly on grass-fed Cape Grimm beef (and maybe soon some free-range, organically-raised Huon Valley beasts), using some of the lesser-known cuts that are much appreciated in Argentina and Uruguay. 

Rich, juicy beef cuts are a speciality

We opted for two rich cuts, a small hanger steak ($21.50) and a flat-iron steak ($27), each rich and textural and demanding some chewing action. Both were served with spicy chimichurri and salsa picante sauces. 

The crispy potatoes with salsa criolla ($8), proved a mighty accompaniment and while our charred vegetables, tomatillo and apple salsa with goat curd turned into a green salad, it didn't seem to matter that much. Frank is that sort of place - you just go with the flow. 

There is an an excellent wine, selection, too. Beers and cocktails as well; served with spiced mixed nuts that are dangerously moreish. 

There are the funky wines from producers like Jauma and Taras Ochota for those so inclined, but also an excellent selection of both Tasmanian and South American selections, along with options like Bowen Estate Cabernet Sauvignon for those looking for something more mainstream. 

Check out whites like the Don David 2013 Torrontes, or the Catena 2012 Chardonnay, both from Mendoza in Argentina, or a selection of malbecs and carmeneres from Argentina and Chile, or opt, maybe, for a Glaetzer-Dixon 2013 Mon Pere Shiraz. 

With so many great choices by the glass, we hardly bothered to look at the well-considered bottle list. 

Next time. And there definitely will be a next time. 

Frank, 1 Franklin Wharf, Hobart. (03) 6231 5005. 

 

Hotels and resorts find another way to rip off their guests

"Resort fees."

It sounds an innocuous enough phrase but it is the latest way for US hotels and resorts to rip off their guests - legally.



If you book into one of the major hotels in Las Vegas, for instance, you will be quoted a price for the room for the night. Say $250.

Except that you will also be slugged up to $28 per night, every night, for what the hotels call "resort fees".

These charges cover wi-fi access, local telephone calls, newspapers, and use of the hotels’ pools and fitness centres. The fee is non-negotiable, even if a guest does not use any of the services, the Los Angeles Times reports.

So even if you don't want wi-fi, or don't intend to swim in the pool: tough luck. You'll be paying whether you want it or not.

Unlike US airlines, which now must include the total price, including taxes and fees upfront, hotels along the Las Vegas strip continue to display a base price that’s lower than what a guest eventually pays. The rort started in the 1990s and is now common in Florida, Hawaii and the Caribbean, as well as in Nevada.

It's all unadvertised, hidden away in the small print and totally legal. And what happens in the US eventually spreads around the world, right?

The resort fee will now be $25 per room per night at all eight properties under the Caesars Entertainment banner, and is $28 at properties such as Aria, Bellagio and Delano, the LA Times says.

Stay a week, and add in the outrageousness of being expected to tip up to 20% to every waiter or bellboy that comes within cooee and that US holiday is suddenly looking a whole lot more expensive.

The official Las Vegas website www.lasvegas.com says: "In Vegas, 15 to 20 percent of the total bill is a good rule of thumb for tipping." 

But punch the words "resort fees" into the website search box and nothing appears. Zilch.

It's a dirty little secret no one wants to talk about.


And to think the hotel industry used to be called "the hospitality industry".

A small Tasmanian family wine label is taking on the big guys - and winning

It is a little known fact that a small family-owned vineyard in the Derwent Valley, just north of Hobart, is the major provider of chardonnay for the iconic Penfolds Yattarna, which retails for around $120 a bottle. 

The Hanigan family, who have farmed their Mt Nassau property at Granton for five generations, cannot ask that kind of money for their Derwent Estate wines just yet - but they are closing in quickly with the new-release Calcaire 2011 Chardonnay retailing for $65. 

Andrew Hanigan in the new winery 

The unveiling of a new range of "reserve" wines completes a remarkable two years for Trevor and Pat Hanigan and their viticulturist son Andrew. 

The Hanigans have been working the land since 1913; farming sheep and cattle, growing vegetables, seed crops, poppies and quarrying for lime. They only planted grapes in 1993 and found the limestone-based alluvial soils and riverbank micro-climate proved ideal for producing top quality fruit. 

Planted with pinot noir, chardonnay, riesling, pinot gris and sauvignon blanc, their vineyards are treated with minimal intervention; insecticides and invasive pesticides are avoided whenever possible.

Much of the fruit from their vines was initially sold to mainland companies; including Penfolds, McWilliam’s and Accolade Wines, but they are now keeping more and more grapes for their own labels as they struggle to meet demand for their cool-climate wines. 

The Hanigans last week held an open day to mark the official opening of their new 600 square metre straw-bale winery and barrel room which was first used for the 2014 vintage after experienced winemaker John Schuts joined the team as a business partner.  

The Derwent Estate vineyards are spectacular

The family do all the vineyard work themselves; hand pruning, shoot thinning and hand picking in a bid to ensure maximum quality. The wines were initially made at Winemaking Tasmania by Schuts, but now everything is done in house. "We have total control," says Andrew Hanigan.

A cellar door tasting facility and a possible conference venue are next in the pipeline - and will offer superb views over the Derwent Valley. 

The new Calcaire range, named after the vineyard's calcareous soil, comprises a pinot noir, chardonnay and riesling from the stellar 2011 vintage. 

"We went the whole way," says Andrew Hanigan. "We took extra care at pruning, threw in extra shoot thinning passes, we cut off 30% of the fruit, we leaf plucked to allow extra sunlight penetration, we trimmed any green wings off every bunch at veraison, carefully hand harvesting, and hand sorting every bunch to remove anything that wasn't 100% perfect."

The new chardonnay has already shone on the show circuit, scoring 97 points and being named best Tasmanian Chardonnay at the 2013 James Halliday Chardonnay Challenge. 

With just 10 hectares of vines at the moment, Derwent Estate is in the fortunate position of demand outstripping supply right now. And a cider range, known as Ebenezer, has been added to the range of drinks on offer.

"It is an exciting time," says Andrew Hanigan with a degree of understatement. 

www.derwentestate.com.au 

A beginners' guide to Ljubljana: one of Europe's most fascinating capitals

I'm sitting at one of several dozen riverside cafes sipping on a large, cold glass of Human Fish, one of the very tasty local boutique beers. I'm surrounded by a young, laid back crowd, many enjoying white wine made from local pinela or zelen grapes, or taking advantage of the city-wide free wi-fi.

They are a friendly crowd, and happy to offer some tips to a visitor. No one seems in a hurry.

It may be hard to spell and even more difficult to pronounce, but Ljubljana is one of Europe's prettiest and most accessible cities. Home to just under 300,000 people, nearly all of its major attractions are found in an easily traversed pedestrianised zone on the banks of the delightful Ljubljanica River.

Slovenia's urbane capital, which is this year celebrating its 2000^th birthday, reminds one of Prague before the crowds descended, or perhaps Vienna. That's no coincidence as all three cities bear the imprint of the Slovenian architect and urban planner Joze Plecnik.

This historic and lively city (there are more than 50,000 student residents) is dotted with cafes, riverside eateries and markets and has long been a trade crossroads of Central Europe.

Founded in Roman times as the settlement of Emona, Ljubljana is today one of the most progressive cities in the former Yugoslavia (Slovenia has been independent since 1991) and was recently named as European Green Capital for 2016 by the European Commission.

It could also be a contender for hippest capital thanks to innovations like Metelkova, a notorious former squat that is now an alternative nightlife venue in the style of Berlin, the award-winning new Vander Urbani Hotel with a rooftop plunge pool overlooking the rooftops of the old city, and Hostel Celica, budget accommodation in what was previously a military prison, bars on the doors and all.

What hits first-timers to Ljubljana is how easy it is to get to – and how relaxed the vibe is. Nearly everyone seems to speak English and have time for a coffee or a beer in this old city full of vibrant young people (the average age is just 30).

Many of those sitting at the cafes this sunny afternoon are heading off to a free open-air classical music performance (one of many held during summer). Most have arrived on foot or by bike, this being a very environmentally friendly city.

Ljubljana is easy to get around - and the old city is mercifully quiet with all motor vehicles banned; except for motorised golf carts that transport the old and infirm. It also feels very safe and that free wi-fi is invaluable for those who wish to Tweet, Facebook and Instagram their experiences.

The iconic Ljubljana Castle, with elements dating back to the 12th and 15th centuries, towers over the city and is most easily reached via a funicular railway with its base in Krek's Square. The castle offers spectacular views for those willing to climb a few stairs to the belvedere tower.

The National Museum of Slovenia was founded in 1821 and is also worth a visit, but Ljubljana, with its mix of Baroque and Art Nouveau architecture, is also a city that rewards the casual stroller or cyclists, who can get around on a bike using the Bicikelj bike-sharing system.

Walk or cycle along the banks of the Ljubljanica River and admire arts and crafts that local artists sell from makeshift stalls. I picked up some delightful pottery figures by Igor Spreizer, who describes himself as an “outsider artist”.

Visit the outdoor and indoor parts of the central market to buy some local gourmet treats, or pick up a boat at the Breg Riverbank in the city and enjoy a relaxing river cruise past many of the city’s major sites (make sure to see the historic Dragon Bridge and the Triple bridges, the centre-point of the old city).

Regular guided tours featuring all the city's highlights depart from in front of the Town Hall and are conducted in Slovenian and English. Also make time to visit Tivoli Park, which extends right into the city and is home to several museums and galleries.

One thing is certain: visitors will eat heartily in Ljubljana. The locals are fond of sausages, schnitzels and other warming Central European dishes, while breads, cakes, soups and dumplings all play major roles on local menus.

Try the historic restaurant Spajza (eat inside in one of several small rooms, or outside in a delightful garden) for dishes including an appetiser of cheek of young colt (maybe not for everyone but horse is a staple in Slovenia, along with boiled beef tongue and frog legs).

More mainstream choices are smoked trout with horseradish terrine and veal medallions with local mushrooms (another staple). Also make time for some struklji, local dumplings made in over 80 different styles, both sweet and savoury, but typically using cottage cheese or baked apples.

If time is tight, a range of Slovenian dishes and drinks can be enjoyed at the “Open Kitchen” Market (left), an al fresco market held every Friday at Pogačarjev trg next to the river.

Wine lovers will enjoy the Vinoteka Movia wine bar and the Dvorni, both ideal places to sample a range of local wines (there are three separate wine regions in Slovenia, while other good eating options include TODZ Cafe, Compa, AS Aperitivno, JB, Taverna Tatjana and the quite touristy but very welcoming Julija.

For suggestions, grab hold of a copy of the English language booklet Taste Ljubljana, which traces the history of cuisine in the city and surrounding areas, with stories behind individual dishes, and their recipes, or join a visit to several foodie spots organised by Ljubljana Food Tour (www.sloveniaguides.si) for E35.

Each year the city hosts over 10,000 cultural events and Ljubljana is home to 14 museums, 45 galleries, 10 theatres and four professional orchestras but is far from staid. There is a lively ambiance just about everywhere you go and you are just as likely to find a Deep Purple or rap concert as an opera performance. Ljubljana has been accurately described as “a small city with the facilities of a metropolis”.

Ljubljana is within a few hours drive of major cities including Venice, Munich, Vienna and Zagreb, making it a short side trip for anyone visiting neighbouring Italy, Croatia, Austria or Hungary, while the surrounding countryside ranges from snow-capped peaks to wild green-blue rivers, with a short coastline on the Adriatic sea. Something for everyone.

How to get there

Emirates flies from Australia to Dubai 84 times per week, with daily onward connections to 35 European destinations. 1300 303 777 or www.emirates.com/au

Where to stay

Probably the funkiest address is the Vander Urbani Resort in the heart of the old town (pictured below) www.vanderhotel.com. A good budget option outside the city centre is the modern Plaza Hotel www.plazahotel.si.

Essential reading

Head to www.slovenia.info or www.visitljubljana.com for up-to-date local info.

# The author was assisted by Visit Slovenia and the Plaza Hotel. This is a version of a story that originally appeared in Sunday Life magazine. 

Change in the air for the quirky Mama Shelter hotel brand

If I need somewhere to stay in Paris that doesn't break the budget, then Mama Shelter is my "go to" address. 

And a friend who stayed last month on my recommendation reported that it is as good as ever - although things may be about to change. 

Mama Shelter Paris is both stylish and affordable - but it is in the 20^th arrondissement, a district that is not even on the radar of most visitors to Paris. It’s gritty, ethnically diverse and unashamedly working class.

It’s the other side of the tracks from the chic five-star hotels of the Avenue Montaigne, Champs-Elysees and Left Bank and the only reason most tourists would have for coming to this part of town would be to explore the huge Pere Lachaise cemetery, where Jim Morrison, Edith Piaf, Oscar Wilde and composers Chopin and Bizet are among the residents.

Until Mama Shelter; a former derelict, graffiti-covered multi-storey car park that overlooks a disused railway line, opened six years ago

With Philippe Starck doing the design and the Trigano family of Club Med fame running the operation, this former eyesore has morphed into one of Paris’s hippest hotels. 

All the rooms have mini bars, iMacs with TV and wi-fi internet access, microwaves and CD/DVD players. The beds, too, are hugely comfortable with crisp cotton sheets – many guests ask for details of where to buy the mattresses.

The theme is quirky design chic – but that’s all part of the fun. The lifts are wallpapered with trivia – in English and French and the rooms are small but functional.

Best of all the prices, at the first Mama Shelter and its offshoots, are rock bottom.

There’s nothing remotely stuffy about Mama Shelter, the bar area is covered in faux graffiti, a nod to the real thing on the old rail track that runs beside the hotel.

It is a 10-15-minute walk to the nearest Metro stations (Gambetta, Alexandre Dumas and Porte de Bagnolet are equidistant). Handily, there’s a stop at the front door for a bus that meanders its way to the rue de Rivoli and The Louvre.

Now the Mama Shelter portfolio, which also includes hotels in  Marseille, Lyon, Istanbul and Bordeaux range, is about to get bigger. 

The massive multinational hotel group Accor has just acquired a 35% stake in the company - and about 20 new Mamas are due to open over the next five years.

The partnership gives Mama Shelter access to Accor's development and distribution network with Los Angeles, Lille, Zurich, Mexico City, Seoul, Amsterdam, Barcelona, New York and London in the pipeline, as well as a second Paris address.

But Mama Shelter's charm is its quirkiness. Accor is the world's leading hotel operator with more than 3,600 hotels and 470,000 rooms in 92 countries. 

Will the two combine successfully? Only time will tell. 

Mama Shelter Paris, 109 Rue de Bagnolet, 75020. +33 1 43 48 48 48. www.mamashelter.com, Rooms from €79 single and €89 double. Luxe rooms from €109.