Paradise revisited: Castaway Island back in business

When Tropical Cyclone Evan hit the Fijian islands in December last year many of the smaller resorts were put out of business for several months as a result of the immense damaged sustained. 

After months of hard labour, Castaway Island - one of the worst-hit resorts - reopened "refreshed and enhanced". During the closure, all staff remained employed. All bures have now been re thatched and many have new ceilings and air-conditioning units. Many of the trees that were uprooted have been replaced and the tropical gardens have come back to life.

For anyone who has ever dreamt of spending time a tropical island paradise, Castaway is pretty much what you imagine. Set on 174 acres, privately-owned it is surrounded by amazingly warm and clean waters teaming with multi-coloured fish - but it is the genuinely warm welcome from the locals that makes this a very special place.

It’s one of the prettiest of the Mamanuca group of islands 30 kilometres from Nadi International airport and is reachable only by boat, seaplane or helicopter.

There are just 66 bures, built well apart from each other, made from local timbers with hand painted vaulted lined ceilings and traditional grass thatched roofs which complement the comfortable air-conditioned interiors.



There are plenty of options when it comes to activities; from lazing in a hammock or enjoying a massage to snorkeling the coral reefs, windsurfing, kayaking, para sailing, catamaran sailing, water skiing or diving. There is a kids club to keep younger visitors fully occupied. 

And - unlike on so many island resorts - the food is not a constant regurgitation of uninspired buffets.

Lance Seeto, the executive chef, is one of those lifting the standards of Fijian cuisine by using traditional local foods alongside western techniques, utilising ingredients like spiny rock lobsters that are caught in an underwater cave just off the resort. Look for dishes like wild goat curry, otta miti (local bush ferns in fresh coconut salsa), or dishes using cassava, dalo (taro stems), breadfruit, sweet potato and other root vegetables, or maybe delicious lomo lemongrass vuaka (suckling pig cooked in an oven pit with roasted kumara).

 
Castaway Island: +679 666 1233. www.castawayfiji.com

World-class food in a tiny Tasmanian village

It is rare for two five-course degustation meals to make it to the table without a single flaw, a misjudgement in timing or a dish that misses the mark.

Not so at The Stackings, the fine-dining sector of Peppermint Bay, the superbly situated eatery some 40 minutes south of Hobart on the fringes of the tiny village of Woodbridge.

Not only is the setting spot on - with spectacular views of the d'Entrecasteaux Channel and the Mirambeena ferry making its way from Kettering to Bruny Island - the kitchen brigade has been immaculately drilled by chef David Moyle and front of house, once a major weakness, has been lifted by recent newcomer Chris Chapple, whose service strikes just the right balance between knowledgeability and hospitality.

The menu, focused on local, seasonal produce and apt to change daily, offers a three-course degustation lunch for $60 or a five-course selection ($90) and each of the dishes was beautifully constructed with a deft balance of flavours and textures. 

Jerusalem artichoke in a wild mushroom broth and foraged herbs got us off to a classy start, along with some house-baked bread so good we purchased another loaf to take away. That was followed by raw wild kingfish with sour cream, pickled kohlrabi and dill, paired with a glass of zesty Laurel Bank 2012 Sauvignon Blanc from the Derwent Valley.

There is a cleverly chosen wine list here - and  a good number by the glass - with the emphasis on Tasmanian boutique producers like Kate Hill, whose 2012 riesling is quite stunning. But there are also some interesting imports like the Quinta do Ameal Loureiro, a 2009 Portuguese white and a fine partner for precisely constructed seared morwong with globe artichoke and preserved lemon salad, the fish crisp on the outside, impeccably moist on the inside (see below). 

Next,  delightfully savoury roasted veal sweetbreads with carrots, nettles and lovage (the kitchen team here forage for fresh ingredients each day). This was paired with a Stefano Lubiana 2011 Primavera Chardonnay, although my preference might have been for something just a tad meatier, maybe a pinot noir. 

Presentation and timing remained impressive, however, with the main course being an ultra-rich Robbins Island grass-fed Wagyu steaklet with turnips and horse radish; an excellent match for a Palacios Remondo 'La Montessa' 2007 tempranillo garnacha, a delectably drinkable medium-bodied Spanish red import. 

Already feeling satiated, we finished with an ultra-rich combination of Bolivian chocolate, dried olive and anise (below) and a marginally less impressive apple and miso partfait with quince and buckwheat (a not totally successful leap onto the quinoa bandwagon but still a textural step above your average restaurant dessert). 

Add The Stackings to the list of Tasmanian restaurants that really should be on your "must visit" list. Food of this freshness, quality and balance is rare enough on the mainland, let alone in the middle of nowhere. 

The Stackings is at Channel Highway, Woodbridge. (03) 6267 4088 and can be reached by road.of luxury ferry from downtown Hobart. It's open for lunch Friday to Monday but make sure to ring ahead and book as opening times can sometimes vary seasonally. www.peppermintbay.com.au.       

Terrible Name; Terrific Hotel

There can be few more appalling names for a luxury hotel than the Pullman Bangkok King Power. But while it sounds like dodgy massage parlour meets duty free emporium, it is actually one of the better situated hostelries in the Thai capital with welcoming staff and affordable rooms. Just around the corner from Victory Monument, it is big but with excellent facilities and a huge range of places to eat and drink.

Stylishly decorated and with free Tuk-Tuk transportation to the nearby Skytrain station, the Pullman is an ideal base for exploring Bangkok and its many markets and temples. 

There are 386 rooms, distinctively Asian and very stylish, and the complex is adjacent to the massive King Power duty free shopping mall (hence the absurd name). But despite its central position the hotel is something of a pleasant refuge in a frenetic city.

Of the several restaurants, my favourite is the cosy Wine Pub (below) , where the list ranges from local wines to more familiar names like Howard Park, Felton Road, Zind Humbrecht and Fairview from South Africa. All wines are sold at virtually cost price – a bonus in a country where the taxes on wine are high – and there are some enticing tapas dishes on offer.

Urban and contemporary Asian in design, the King Power has six dining venues in all. Also recommended are Chaan for authentic Thai cuisine and Deja Vu for traditional French cooking. 

The rooms are spacious and feature marbled bathrooms with separate bath and a shower room with a rain shower head. All are fully IT-equipped (with free wifi), and include a movable workstation and flat-screen TV, and room service is available 24 hours at day. There’s a swimming pool and an excellent on site spa offering a range of treatments.  

Bargains like a current offer on the hotel website with a double room for $95 per night plus taxes leave more money to spend on food – and Bangkok is one of the world’s great culinary destinations.

From street food costing a couple of dollars served from makeshift stalls on wheels to some of the most sophisticated eateries in Asia the simple rule is to eat at the places that are the busiest. No matter their budget, Thais tend to know their food.

Pullman Bangkok King Power, 8 Rangnam Road, Bangkok. +66 2680 9999. For information and bookings see www.pullmanbangkokkingpower.com/

Getting away from it all with the family: Thai style

If you are visiting Thai resort regions like Koh Samui and Phuket you have two choices. You can either base yourself in the heart of the action, surrounded by the hustle and bustle of the bars and massage shops of Chaweng and Patong, or opt for a more remote and authentic experience like the luxurious Baan Taling Ngam on the little-visited Virgin Coast of Koh Samui.

Situated on top of a cliff, surrounded by coconut plantations, the hotel has infinity and beachfront pools and just 79 guest suites featuring private balconies with sea or garden views, wooden furnishings, and traditional Thai décor. All rooms have satellite TVs along with DVD/CD players and the service is friendly, slick and unobtrusive.

There are four on-site eateries while just down the road is the Five Islands restaurant, casually chic; right on the waterfront and specialising in local seafood (think dishes like baked crab meat and herb curry served in the shell). Long-tail boats leave from here to explore the surrounding waters.

The obligatory spa offers a large menu of treatment options, ranging from aromatherapy and four hands massages to body masks and polishes, facials and a selection of herbal baths.

This is a perfect escape from the hurly burly; the beaches are all but empty apart from during high season and the lounge is the perfect spot to relax with a cocktail while taking in the magnificent sunsets overlooking the unspoiled and uninhabited Five Islands. 

Now part of the InterContinental chain, the resort recently launched a new Family Retreat package, designed to allow parents plenty of pampering time while at the same time keeping kids entertained. 

The package features luxurious accommodation and a range of complimentary experiences, including daily breakfast for the family, meals for children under 12 throughout the stay, return airport transfers, wifi throughout the resort, access to the signature kid's club, Planet Trekkers, and a 60-minute spa treatment for two adults at the Baan Thai Spa.

Available for minimum three-night stays, the Family Retreat package starts from around $315 per night for stays from May 1 through to December 22, 2013.

The former Baan Taling Ngam – the first luxury resort in Koh Samui, opening its doors in 1993 – has undergone major renovations. Highlights include seven swimming pools, kids cooking classes and visits to the local markets, complimentary mountain biking, snorkelling and mini beach soccer.

The InterContinental is a 45-minute drive from Koh Samui International Airport so local taxis will sometimes be needed to get around as the area is unspoilt (read quite remote). But the resort is near to the Angthong National Marine National Park and the dive sites of Koh Tao.

For more information and bookings see: www.samui.intercontinental.com.

New Zealand luxury with a capital L

Whether you are a thrill-seeker, outdoor enthusiast or a lover of fine food and wine, Queenstown, deep in the South Island of New Zealand, has plenty to keep you entertained in  style. 

Known for its Hobbits - much of the Lord of the Rings trilogy was filmed in the area – Queenstown is also renowned for some of the best ski runs in the southern hemisphere, as well as for kayaking, bungee jumping, jet boating, white-water rafting and hiking.

The less adventurous can enjoy a cruise through nearby Milford Sound, part of the Fjordland National Park World Heritage area, or maybe sample some fine Central Otago pinot noir from one of the region's 75 wineries. 

In mid winter, skiing at resorts like Cardrona, Coronet Peak, The Remarkables and Treble Cone takes centre stage, but the town is also known for its vibrant nightlife scene. There are two very different demographics here; younger wilder snow sports enthusiasts and an older, more sophisticated crowd.

Queenstown and surrounding towns Arrowtown, Wanaka, Alexandra and Cromwell attract over one million visitors a year – and this is where AJ Hackett operated the world’s first commercial bungee jumping operation.

Queenstown is also home to several impressive luxury resorts; the most spectacular, and exclusive, of which is Matakauri Lodge, a sister property to two of New Zealand’s best-known high-end lodges, Kauri Cliffs and the Lodge at Cape Kidnappers.

Matakauri Lodge, which sits perched above the waters of glacial Lake Wakatipu, is one of those places where nothing is too much trouble for the staff – as you’d expect from a member of the exclusive Relais & Chateaux group.

It offers a range of activities, from golf to a helicopter tour of some of the region’s most stunning natural attractions.

Most visitors also take a cruise across Lake Wakatipu on the historic steam ship the TSS Earnslaw, which was built in 1912 and is the only remaining passenger-carrying coal-fired steamship in the southern hemisphere.

Known as “The Lady of the Lake”, the Earnslaw makes several trips each day from Queenstown to Walter Peak High Country Farm, where visitors can enjoy dramatic scenery, farm tours, horse treks and heritage tours

Those looking for a more active afternoon can opt for a Shotover Jet ride on wild, raging Shotover River, an experience that is billed as “the world’s most exciting jet boat ride.”

One of the best times to visit Queenstown is for Winterfest from June 21-30 this year. The quintessential winter experience is a 10-day celebration of Queenstown's unique culture and community with street parties, fireworks, international and local acts, jazz, comedy, Mardi Gras, family fun and sporting events.

Fishing is also popular and you can give your catch to the lodge's chefs to create a gastronomic feast.

Matakauri Lodge, which was named by Tatler magazine as one of the world's 101 best hotels, also earned a spot on Conde Nast Traveller's 2011 Hot List. It has a very special charm and most guests will want to spend as much time in-house as possible.

After a sauna, jacuzzi or dip in the outdoor infinity pool, pre-dinner drinks and meals are served in the main lodge at Matakauri with dramatic views of Lake Wakatipu and the snow-capped Remarkables, Cecil and Walter Peak mountain ranges. Private dining can be arranged for couples seeking romance.

Executive chef Dale Gartland has worked at English two-hat Michelin restaurant Gidleigh Park and matches dishes like seared scallops and grilled scampi with garlic and parsley butter, crayfish thermidor or fillet of beef with roast shallots, potato puree and asparagus to a fine collection of New Zealand wines, including several choices from the owners’ own vineyards.

Matakauri Lodge has just 11 luxury suites, each with private terraces, and all tariffs include dinner, breakfasts and a complimentary mini bar. 

Valid from May 1-July 31, 2013, Australian residents reserving a deluxe suite will enjoy a complimentary third night when staying two or more consecutive nights. Deluxe suite rates over this period are NZ$890 per person per night (twin/share) or NZ$1395 single occupancy and include pre-dinner drinks, gourmet dinners, full breakfasts, complimentary non-alcoholic mini-bar and use of all lodge facilities.

Matakauri Lodge is at 569 Glenorchy Road, Queenstown. Phone: +64 3 441 1008. 

www.matakaurilodge.co.nz.

Rutherglen: An enriching experience

Visiting the sleepy north-east Victorian town of Rutherglen offers a very different wine experience.

Head into the cellar doors at Morris, Stanton and Killeen, Campbells (below) or any of the other producers of Australia’s unique fortified wines and you will be greeted by glorious rich aromas of treacle, butterscotch and oak.

Here you’ll find heady, decadent wines made in the style of port, muscat and tokay; many of which have been maturing for decades in casks or giant oak barrels. 

Evaporation takes up to five per cent of the contents each year, as witnessed by the many dark stains on the winery walls and roofs. The locals call the escaped matter “the angels’ share”.

Rutherglen, a four-hour drive from Melbourne and seven hours from Sydney, is Australia’s capital of fortified wines and a place of pilgrimage for wine aficionados.

At Morris Wines, David Morris will show you around a winery his family has guided for five generations – dating back to 1859 and the days of the Victorian gold rush. 

It’s the same story at nearby Wahgunyah, where Susie Campbell is the latest generation of her family to be involved in the making of the rich and complex Campbells wines.

Pioneering Chambers Rosewood, the oldest winery in the region, was established in 1858; Morris, the biggest producer, in 1859; All Saints in 1864, and Campbells in 1870. 

There are over 20 wineries in all, with several branching out stylistically from the traditional fortifieds and big reds. Cofield specialises in sparkling wines, and Rutherglen Estates and Valhalla in European-style table wines. 

Campbells and Morris are among the more atmospheric cellar doors, while at Pfeiffers you can enjoy a glass of wine on the Sunday Creek Bridge and gaze down at the turtles below. 

The All Saints cellar door is in a 120-year-old castle, and is also home to the Indigo Cheese Company and one of Australia’s best winery restaurants – The Terrace. 

The John Gehrig tasting facility, meanwhile, is a step back in time and tiny Scion Wines (above) has just a few tables and chairs in the garden along with a cellar door that overflows if more than a dozen visitors turn up.

Probably the best place to stay is Tuileries, which offers up-market accommodation in well-equipped suites overlooking a vineyard. Guests have access to a swimming pool and tennis court and it’s a short walk to Rutherglen’s cafes and shops. There’s also a top-notch restaurant on-site serving inventive modern Australian cuisine.

For more information:

The Rutherglen Wine Experience Visitor Information Centre at 57 Main Street (1800 622 871) is staffed by well-informed locals and open daily from 9am-5pm.