New project for veteran winemaker

 

Chris Hatcher spent almost three decades as chief winemaker for the high-profile Wolf Blass wine brand, part of global giant Treasury Wine Estates.

Then, suddenly, he was gone.

Hatcher is now making wines under his own brand HATCH in the Barossa Valley, where he lives.

"HATCH Wines are coming along nicely and I will be releasing a 2023 Clare Valley Watervale Riesling and 2023 Eden Valley Flaxman’s Valley Riesling on September 1, followed by a Barossa Shiraz and a McLaren Vale Shiraz on November 1," he announced on LinkedIn.

Great news, but Hatcher's departure from Wolf Blass was handled most peculiarly.

I asked the Treasury media team for a press release on Hatcher's departure, and info on who would be replacing him.

After three days I finally got a one-line response; "Thank you for your email. We didn’t issue a media release but Wolf Blass continues to be made by our experienced team of winemakers "

Which is seriously weird given Hatcher had been the face of the brand.

Hatcher, now 71, completed a Science degree at the University of Adelaide in 1974, before studying winemaking at Charles Sturt University.

After working in Orlando and Kaiser Stuhl in the Barossa Valley and Simi Winery in California, he joined Wolf Blass in 1987. He was senior winemaker for nine years and in 1996 was promoted to chief winemaker.

He was named International Winemaker of the Year on multiple occasions.

In May, Hatcher presented the launch of the 2023 Wolf Blass luxury range.

On July 7 he retired with zero fanfare.

After almost 40 years. Odd is an undertatement.

Wolf Blass unveils new luxury releases

No matter what your price point is, there will be a Wolf Blass wine to match it.

If you are looing for a cheap tipple, then the brand created by German migrant Wolfgang Blass back in 1966 will have something to match your budget.

But Wolf Blass, now part of Treasury Wine Estates, also has several prestige wines in its new luxury collection, this week releasing five across three ranges - from $40-$200.

Chris Hatcher, the Wolf Blass chief winemaker, believes that the 2023 Luxury Collection captures the essence of the brand’s premium origins.

“Wolf forged a new path in luxury Australian wines, always setting a much higher standard amongst his peers and this philosophy remains as relevant today to the 2023 Luxury Collection as when he first began over 50 years ago,” Hatcher said.

The new collection’s wines feature three in the ‘grey’ range, and one each in the ‘black’ and ‘platinum’ ranges.

They are:

# Grey Label Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay 2022 – RRP $40

# Grey Label McLaren Vale Shiraz 2021 – RRP $45

# Grey Label Langhorne Creek Cabernet Shiraz 2021 – RRP $45

# Black Label Barossa, Langhorne Creek, McLaren Vale Cabernet Shiraz Malbec 2021 – RRP $130

# Platinum Label Medlands Vineyard, Barossa Valley Shiraz 2021 – RRP $200

“The Grey Label range - the first wines to bear the Wolf Blass name back in the day - represent the benchmark styles of their regions, showcasing varieties that carry a definite sense of place," says Hatcher.

“Black Label, the first ultra-premium wine made by Wolfgang in 1973 - and the record four-time winner of Australia’s most prestigious wine trophy, the Jimmy Watson Trophy - put the winery on the map and this embodies the history, style and quality of Wolf Blass, establishing itself as one of Australia’s greatest wines..

“To complete the collection, Platinum Label, our ultimate wine, is the manifestation of unique terroir and vineyard excellence, enhanced with our winemakers’ experience and skill.

“Individually and collectively, these wines have been consistently recognised the world over. Sophisticated and multi-layered, they are equally traditional yet contemporary, showcasing the Wolf Blass hallmarks of power and elegance.”

The outlier in the range, the Adelaide Hills chardonnay, was the nicest surprise for me; very elegant, classic Australian cooler-climate chardonnay with real personality.

The Grey Label Langhorne Creek cabernet shiraz is one for the cellar. Inky with dark berry and cassis notes, it is still tightly wound. 

For now I would go with the delightful Grey Label McLaren Vale shiraz; intense and juicy but smooth on the finish. Think black and blue fruits, power and intensity.

The Black Label cabernet shiraz malbec blend is impressively; deep and long with dark fruit notes and charry oak.

My first thought on the Platinum Label wine was that it merits another 20 years in the cellar. It is a huge wine, high in alcohol - although the label claims only 14.5%. Drink the others first. Save this one.