Behind-the-scenes voice to grace 2023 The Signature

It takes more than a viticulturist and a winemaker to produce a flagship wine for a major wine company.

Think grape pickers, designers, marketers, cellar staff, sales people and wordsmiths among many playing a role.

May 1 will see the release of the 52nd vintage of Yalumba The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon & Shiraz, with the 2023 vintage dedicated to a man whose words have graced the wine's labels for more than three decades: Peter Sawrey.

Each year, The Signature honours an individual who has made a profound contribution to Yalumba’s culture and traditions.

The person honoured is chosen by fifth-generation proprietor Robert Hill-Smith.

Since 1994, Sawrey has written the back label story for every vintage of The Signature; interviewing each Signatory, distilling their character and contribution, and translating Yalumba’s history into the words that travel with every bottle around the world.

Jessica Hill-Smith says: "Sawrey's storytelling has become as intrinsic to The Signature as the blend itself,"

“An authentic wine must have an authentic recipient, and the 2023 wine is a ripper,” said her father, Robert Hill-Smith.

“The Signatory dedication is an important tradition for our family business. It is wonderful to see it 
grow within our company, with the wine trade, and with people drinking The Signature around the
world.”

Sawrey joined Yalumba in 1988, contributing across events and marketing, and became a custodian of the brand’s narrative. It was in 1994 that Hill-Smith first asked him to interview Peter “PJ” Wall for the back label of the 1990 vintage. What followed was more than three decades of conversations.

Even after retiring from Yalumba in 2009, Sawrey was still invited to write The Signature’s back label.

On being named the 2023 Signatory, Sawrey said: “I am moved. I have dreamt about this day. I have 
enjoyed writing the stories of Yalumba’s Signatories all these years, and now I look forward to writing
my own!”

The wine was made by another Yalumba retiree, Kevin Glastonbury, and is impressively composed, beautifully balanced and ready to enjoy. Seriously impressive. 

Pre-release purchases are available via yalumba.com. RRP $74.

Cullen releases showcase the impacts of biodynamics

Vanya Cullen and her winemaking team are constantly looking to push the boundaries and explore new iterations of their star wines, using biodynamic principles in the vineyard and the winery.

Two new releases - both made in minuscule quantities - showcase the Cullen Wines commitment to wines that make a statement.

The inaugural release of the Diana Madeline Legacy Series Full Moon MOSH - from the 2023 vintage - honours Diana Madeline Cullen AM, whose passion for Bordeaux blends led her to introduce both merlot and cabernet franc to Margaret River back in 1976.

A blend of 70% cabernet sauvignon and 30% malbec showcases the first pick for both varieties from the Cullen vineyard in 2023, occurring on a full Moon and Moon opposite Saturn harvest in early March.

The fruit was hand-harvested from 52-year-old dry grown cabernet Vines, first planted in 1971. The two grape varieties were co-fermented in stainless steel vats and then matured for 14 months in 33% new barriques.

The other premium release is the 2024 Kevin John Legacy Series Flower Day.

It is a wine deeply rooted in Cullen's passion for biodynamic principles - with the aim of producing wines that embody the influence of the biodynamic calendar.

The 2024 Kevin John Legacy Series Flower Day Chardonnay comes from the earliest vintage on record at Cullen Wines.

Grapes were picked in mid-January from old, dry-grown Gin Gin clone vines. The fruit was basket pressed to a concrete egg for wild fermentation, then matured for six months in a new oak puncheon.

There were zero additions of yeast or acidity, and the wine was bottled without fining or filtration.

Two special wines priced for aficionados. Both have serious presence, intensity and depth of flavour. They retail for $350 each.

# The Margaret River Wine Association has honoured Vanya Cullen (above) with its Lifetime Achievement Award, recognising her contribution to the Margaret River wine industry and her "leadership in sustainability, innovation, and excellence".

Cullen aims to set new international benchmarks in biodynamic viticulture, environmental responsibility, and regenerative farming.

See cullenwines.com.au/.

Gago named a Legend of the Vine

Penfolds chief winemaker Peter Gago AC was today named the 2025 South Australian 'Legend of the Vine' at the 2025 Royal Adelaide Wine & Spirits Awards lunch.

The award is presented by Wine Communicators of Australia to recognise a South Australian who is of excellent character, who is held in high regard by their peers in the world of wine, and who has made an outstanding contribution to the Australian wine industry. 

“Peter Gago is an outstanding Legend of the Vine, having carried the message on the quality of Australian wine to the world,” the WCA said. 

“For decades he has upheld and grown esteem for Penfolds Grange with critics and connoisseurs and by association provided a halo effect on Australian, and in particular, South Australian wine.

“In 2017 he became the first Australian wine figure to be appointed as a Companion of the Order of Australia (AC) for his service and contribution to the Australian wine Industry. The following year he symbolically was appointed a Doctor of the University (DUniv) of The University of South Australia.

 “His biography shows his deep commitment and loyalty to the Penfolds brand, a 36-year veteran and chief winemaker since 2002. While steadfast and dedicated to upholding the style of Penfold’s highly sought-after wines, he reveals flashes of an avant-garde nature with bold initiatives such as the Ampoule, g3, and most recently the Grange X La Chapelle Syrah/Shiraz blend. 

“His winemaking credentials are impeccable, and he has received recognition nationally and internationally with almost every ‘Winemaker of the Year’ award that exists on the planet.”

WCA National Chair Lynda Schenk said, “We are thrilled to acknowledge Peter Gago with the 2025 South Australian Legend of the Vine award. This is a story of a local hero who has long been recognised the world over for his incredible achievements and this occasion may well mark the first formal honour in his home city of Adelaide.

 “Over the years, Peter has received numerous awards for his winemaking expertise. With this award, WCA acknowledges his incredible skill as a wine communicator. He is a wonderful storyteller, and highly charismatic in conversation, regardless of the topic. 

"He is generous with his knowledge which he delivers with humility and warmth. His ability to engage people with compelling authenticity has undoubtedly contributed equally to Penfold’s success as his skill as a winemaker, which is also considerable.”

Gago said he was honoured.

“Wherever I travel in the world, there’s nothing better than the feeling of arriving home” he said. 

Driving up to my office at Magill Estate and greeted by a vineyard established in 1844 just feels right. I feel similarly moved about being named the 2025 South Australian Legend of the Vine and I thank Wine Communicators for considering me among the many worthy individuals that work in our industry.”   
 
Peter Gago AC is the eleventh South Australian to receive the SA Legend of the Vine Award. He joins a list that includes Prue Henschke, Jane Ferrari, Peter Hayes, Brian Croser AO, Pam Dunsford, Tony Love, Brian Walsh, d’Arry Osborne, Bill Hardy OAM, and Dr Patrick Iland OAM (with whom Peter has co-written four books on wine), all of whom are lifetime members of WCA.

Heavy metal: Calls for airport to be named after Ozzy Osbourne

 

Birmingham International Airport (BHX) in the UK could soon be known as Ozzy Osbourne Airport.

There have been calls for the airport to be re-named to honour the Birmingham-born former Black Sabbath singer, who died this week.

Osbourne never lost his Brummie accent despite spending much of his life in the US and a movement is gaining steam to honour the larger-than-life rocker with a petition launched by fan Dan Hudson after his death.

“Naming our international airport after him would be a fitting tribute to his extraordinary career and contributions to the arts,” Hudson said.

“Together, we can celebrate the legacy of Ozzy Osbourne and the incredible influence our city has had on the world stage, thanks to him.”

He cited examples of British airports named after celebrities including John Lennon Airport in Liverpool and George Best Airport in Belfast.

Wine industry veterans recognised

 

Three wine industry icons who have mad a major impact in Coonawarra and further afield have been honoured by their peers. 

The Coonawarra Vignerons this weekend named Coonawarra’s newest Patrons, at a gala dinner at Parker Coonawarra Estate. 

Sue Hodder, Ian Hollick and Allen Jenkins were formally awarded the honour, recognised their years of service and outstanding contributions, promotion and development of the Coonawarra Wine Region.

“The honour of Patron of Coonawarra is awarded to individuals who have demonstrated outstanding contribution, commitment and service to the Coonawarra wine region over many years, above and beyond the requirements of their own job or business,” said Coonawarra Vignerons president Dan Redman. 

“Their energy and enthusiasm for the region is infectious, with an open-minded attitude for the future and a willingness to see change for the betterment of the region as a whole. As leaders in their respective fields they’ve served as mentors, offering guidance throughout their careers to many of today’s wine leaders.” 

In inducting three new Patrons, the Coonawarra Vignerons also recognised their past Patrons: Eric Brand (deceased), Ken Ward (deceased), Colin Ross-Smith (deceased), Colin Kidd (deceased), and current Patrons Doug Balnaves, Doug Bowen, Wendy Hollick, Bruce Redman, Michelle Stehbens and Greg Clayfield, all of whom were in attendance on the night.

“Each recipient has demonstrated an enormous effort in elevating Coonawarra and contributing to the wine region’s success," said Redman. "They are all truly worthy of this accolade.” 

Sue Hodder has been at Wynns Coonawarra Estate for over 30 years and in 1998 she became the winery’s first female senior winemaker. She has won myriad awards. 

Hollick arrived in Coonawarra to work for Mildara Wines in 1972 and established a vineyard with his former wife Wendy two years later. Hollick Estate twice won the coveted Jimmy Watson Trophy.  

Allen Jenkins was appointed Wynns viticulturist in 2001, and for the next 20 years was a strong contributor to the Coonawarra and Limestone Coast wine regions.

Hodder, Hollick and Jenkins were each presented with a badge and framed certificate commemorating their induction.