Bali bliss; how to get away from it all in real style

"Hey hey, you can't go back" - Patti Scialfa

There are so many places that I have yet to visit that I rarely return to destinations, even top-notch ones that I have thoroughly enjoyed.

The Damai, a little sanctuary of serenity in Bali, is a firm exception to that rule. Think exclusive, remote, and stylish. And definitely return worthy.

Tucked away in the hills above Bali's northern beaches, The Damai is a privately owned bijou resort where the air is clean, the sky clear and the sounds muted, except, sometimes, for the local frogs.

The Damai sits in the lush green hills above sleepy Lovina. 

There are just 14 beautifully appointed villas in lush tropical gardens with stunning views over the North Bali coast and the distant volcanoes of Java. 

The award-winning poolside restaurant serves delicious local and international cuisine with organic ingredients from the resort's own gardens and farm. 

The Damai is a perfect spot to relax from the hectic world outside; to enjoy the private luxury of a pool villa or simply to relax in your private pool after a massage. 

With a few hours of arriving you will be zoned out, ready to start regenerating. 

There are plenty of activities on offer; a trip to one of the spectacular local waterfalls, perhaps, a boat ride out to swim with dolphins on one of the local fishing vessels, or maybe a vineyard tour, wine tasting and picnic at a local vineyard (yes, really!).

But my bet is that you will spend most of your stay in your pool, or reading a book, or having an al fresco treatment. 

 
Unlike many of Bali's top resorts, The Damai really is far away from the hustle and bustle.

You will find yourself far from the crowds, and close to the true heart of Bali, local people going about their daily lives. 

Maybe you will venture to a dance class in the village. Savour the scent of cloves in the breeze. Take a trek to a deserted temple or a secret waterfall. 

You are only a few hours from Kuta or Canggu, but in a very different world. 

After taking in the magnificent sunsets, the only sounds you are likely to hear are snatches of traditional music drifting from one of the small nearby villages, or perhaps a rooster crowing.

In addition to the marvellous pool villas, the lush greenery and superb food, the big strength of The Damai is its staff; the vast majority of them locals.

The service here is uniformly smiling and quietly efficient. Nothing is too much trouble whether you are enjoying a cocktail, taking a golf buggy trip from your villa to the main complex, or need help with a restaurant reservation at your next destination.

The Damai describes its style as "elegant simplicity". All the villas are surrounded by private gardens and you are unlikely to see any other guests unless you wish to.

The food is easy to enjoy. Simple brasserie dishes. Balinese classics. Tropical, local and good. Most evenings dinner is served by the poolside, by a roaring fire, under the stars, with view over the boats at sea, catching the fish for tomorrow's menu.

"We use organic ingredients wherever possible." staff tell me. "Many things we grow ourselves. Herbs and salads from our market garden. Honey from the Damai bees. Poultry, eggs and fresh coconut oil from our village. Fish from the local fishermen. Very few imports, and always of the best quality we can find."

In addition to the a la carte dinner menu there is always a three-course set menu of Balinese favourites.  And don't miss out on the cocktails - alcoholic or otherwise. They are splendid and potentially addictive. 

Breakfast features a choice of western or Balinese menus, but we began each day with fresh fruit platters and a shot of "jamu" - a local herbal elixir. 

You can then go traditional, or local, maybe with Mie Goreng, fried noodles with vegetables and chicken satés. 

Dinner is usually enjoyed al fresco next to the main pool. 

Think menu favourites like yellowfin tuna grilled bleu with ripe local mango, pickled raisins, sweet and sour soy vinaigrette with macadamia and oyster mushrooms, or poached village chicken with fresh zucchini, cucumber, dill oil, noodles and a touch of wasabi. 

Stay ultra regional with grilled local fish of the day, beurre blanc or spicy soy sauce, with pilaf rice and steamed local greens. 

Your villa will be just a 10-minute drive through the countryside - past local temples and farms - to the beach resort of Lovina.

The Damai Bali was recently nominated for the TOP25 Hotels Bali - World’s Best Luxury Hotels award: a pity as I would prefer it to remain undiscovered for just a little longer. 

It was praised for couples seeking a romantic honeymoon in an idyllic, private setting; travellers desiring a peaceful retreat with world-class amenities and attentive service, and for gastronomy enthusiasts eager to experience the culinary offerings. 

“We are honoured to be recognised among the world’s best luxury hotels,” said Damai GM Andres Rubio. 

“This nomination is a testament to our team's dedication to creating unforgettable experiences for every guest. We look forward to welcoming travellers from Bali, across Asia, and around the globe to discover the magic of The Damai.”

One note: Unless you are brave/foolish enough to drive yourself, you'll need to book a hotel transfer. You are a good 3-4 hours from Denpasar Airport, and it is an interesting, albeit slow, drive.

You can stop along the way at Singarajah, Git Git Falls or in Ubud to break up the journey. 

The Damai: +62 877 888 41008, resort@thedamai.com. https://thedamai.com/

The writer was hosted by The Damai

Images: Winsor Dobbin 

A breakfast for every taste

Breakfast is a thing of beauty at The Damai resort, deep in the hills of northern Bali overlooking the beaches of Lovina. 

You can choose between a traditional Balinese breakfast, a healthy “Green” breakfast, an American breakfast or a la carte choices. 

Many of the ingredients, including the breads, jams, and many of the fruits are sourced from the 14-villa boutique hotel’s nearby farm. 

Whatever your decision your meal starts with a small glass of jamu - the local health elixir. The ingredients change on a daily basis. As does the composition of the fruit plate.

The views are spectacular. The food equally so.

A full resort review will follow in a few days but here are some breakfast dish highlights to whet your appetite. 

Check out http://www.thedamai.com/ 

# Hosted

A very special getaway in the hills of Bali

Tucked away in the hills above the northern Bali coast is a superb rural getaway that allows guests to experience the authentic sights, sounds and tastes of the holiday island. 

The Damai, which reopened last year after a three-year Covid closure, offers a luxury villa experience surrounded by temples, small farms and rice paddies. 

The 15 private villas (in four configurations) all offer an essence of Balinese style (think al fresco garden showers), but each has its own swimming pool and western comforts, including fast, reliable wifi. Think simple, but elegant, in a serene garden setting. 

The Damai's slogan is: "hard to find; harder to leave" and it offers a rare sense of tranquillity just a winding 4km drive up from the black sand beaches at Lovina, where visitors can go swimming with dolphins on a local fishing boat, and sample the many local warungs to maybe try some babi guleng (suckling pig). 

It is also close to a number of spectacular waterfalls.

As the light fades, guests can sit on the terrace with spectacular views down to the water, and take in sounds wafting mellifluously across the landscape. 

The soundtrack ranges from the call to prayer at local temples, the sound of gamelans practicing their art, resident frogs and local roosters.

The word damai means "peace", which seems totally appropriate. 

Many guests choose to spend most of their time at The Damai, where local experiences are highlighted and most of the very impressive staff come from the hillside villages. 

Think herbal shots made from local plants for breakfast, a daily menu of Balinese food specialities, and cocktails made with local ingredients that the bar staff have marinated themselves. 

Meals are served either in the open-air dining room, at poolside, or in your villa's garden, should you be looking for complete privacy. 

If you are looking for a local breakfast try a colourful fresh fruit platter (above) followed by a spicy mie goreng and chicken skewers. 

At dinner there is always a Balinese three-course menu choice, perhaps featuring a half chicken from a local village, or some crabs from local mangroves (below). 

That said, the western food is also very good with the Balinese-style Angus burger for lunch a standout, and dishes like yellowfin tuna with mango, langoustine and green curry, or fish of the day with beurre blanc or a spicy soy sauce; served with pilaf rice or steamed greens.

The Damai uses organic ingredients where possible with herbs and salads from the on-site market garden, honey from the Damai bees, and poultry, eggs and fresh coconut oil from the neighbouring village. When you dine you can see the local fishermen out at sea readying for tomorrow's catch.

The hotel can arrange for you to take a trip further up in the hills to visit "Vanilla Farm" where you can see vanilla, cloves, nutmeg and other spices being farmed and dried - as well as exotic fruits like jackfruit and dragonfruit.

The ambience here is totally relaxing, but if you really want to chill, the signature The Damai Massage is an excellent excuse to nod off. For just a few minutes, of course. 

The Damai offers a slice of the real Bali. A deserted beach; a dance class in a village; a glimpse inside a temple, or a moment of contemplation at a spectacular waterfall. 

A range of packages can be tailored to your preferences - and drivers are available to take you where you want to go (at extra cost, of course). 

For more details see https://www.thedamai.com/ Villas start from well under $300 a night. Tell them I sent you.

Qantas flies Sydney-Denpasar with daily direct flights operated on an Airbus A330 aircraft, fares start from $414 one way. Melbourne-Denpasar direct flights operate five times per week using a Boeing 737 aircraft. Fares start from $415 one way. See qantas.com.

# The writer was hosted by The Damai.

Bali off the beaten track: Sights of Lovina

I am currently spending a few days in the hills above Lovina on Bali’s quiet north coast as a guest of the excellent The Damai hotel. 

A full review of The Damai will follow shortly but here are some random images that captured my interest. 

The “real” Bali a little off the beaten track. Please enjoy. 

A morning swim with the locals

One of the most popular tourism activities on the north coast of Bali is taking a local fishing boat off shore to commune with the local dolphins.

The Damai resort, where I an staying, arranged a very good boat and skipper this morning and dozens of dolphins frolicked around is, albeit some distance from where they usually hang out.

The dolphins are clearly very comfortable in the presence of the boats - having fun diving between them, disappearing under water then reappearing hundreds of metres away. 

They are an awesome sight when they spiral in the air. 

Our skipper reckoned the pod consisted of around 50 dolphins - and some tourists got right the water with their new friends. 

Here are a few images I hope you enjoy. 

# The writer is being hosted by The Damai at Lovina. https://www.thedamai.com/