Japanese chef offers a taste of France in Sydney

Classic French food appears to be making a comeback in Australia.

The latest French-accented opening is Charlotte Bar & Bistro in the Sydney harbourside suburb of McMahons Point.

The press release gushes enthusiastically: "Guests will be transported to a timeless space boasting European charm which embodies Azabu Group’s commitment to creating exceptional dining experiences that resonate with a legacy of excellence and innovation."

Hmm.

Charlotte Bar & Bistro is helmed by French influenced head chef Hiroshi Manaka (ex LuMi), who has worked in several top European eateries.

“Charlotte Bar & Bistro is extremely special," he says.

"We have crafted a menu that pays homage to the rich culinary traditions of French cuisine while infusing our own unique touch. 

"Each dish is a work of art, meticulously prepared to offer a truly unrivalled dining experience. We invite our guests to embark on a culinary journey with us, where every dish is a revelation of flavour and passion."

The menu offers classic French dishes including tarte provençale, paté de foie de volaille, steak frites aux champignons, ris de veau for the more adventurous, and a delicious-sounding lobster ravoli dish. 

A banquet menu for a minimum of four people for $89 per person looks a great deal. 

There is an enticing dessert list and the cheese selection includes Beaufort, Comté, Brillat Savarin, Sainte-Maure de Touraine, Époisses and Fourme d’Ambert. 

There's also a very strong wine list with some excellent selections under Coravin. A glass of 2018 Jean-Luc Jamet Côte Rôtie Terrasses anyone? 

Charlotte can seat up to 120 guests across several spaces with The Terrace described as an "outdoor space reimagined to the coastline of the French Riviera". Which sounds a little unlikely.

You can book at https://www.charlottebarbistro.com.au/

Thai capital to welcome a new signature dining experience

Bangkok is about to get a new fine dining restaurant.

Chatrium Grand Bangkok, one of the Thai capital's top hotels, is preparing to unveil Casia, a new fine-dining destination that will present “French finesse in the heart of Siam”. 

This signature French-Mediterranean restaurant will be led by chef de cuisine Jerome Bondaz, an award-winning culinary expert whose stellar career has spanned Michelin-starred venues in Europe, the Caribbean and Asia.

With a passion for using fresh ingredients and classical flavours with contemporary cooking techniques, the chef is promising a gastronomic journey to southern France and the Mediterranean coast.

He has been working with sustainable farms, organic orchards and small-scale fisheries to source the best ingredients. 

Casia’s menus will change with the seasons and feature à la carte dining, as well as a series of degustation offerings. 

Casia will also stage a host a series of culinary events. 

“My culinary influences come from many different places," the chef says.

" When I was growing up I would shuck oysters with my father. This started my love of fresh produce and especially seafood. Since then, I have been fortunate to work with some of the world’s best chefs, including the late Santi Santamaria, with whom I worked very closely during my spell as head chef at El Racó de Can Fabes, the famous Barcelona restaurant that held two Michelin stars.

“In more recent years, my cuisine has been inspired by my global travels. I have been lucky to work in Asia and South America, which introduced me to many exciting and exotic new ingredients and expanded my knowledge. 

"All of these influences, from the Michelin-starred restaurants of southern Europe to the vibrant markets of Asia, will be represented in the menus at Casia."

Casia will be open for lunch and dinner. 

For more information see www.chatrium.com/grandbangkok/dining/casia.

New Sydney eatery to have a serious French accent

Sydney's hip inner city suburb of Surry Hills is get a new French brasserie from next month.

Restaurateur Andrew Becher, the owner and operator of European-inspired restaurants Franca and Parlar, will open his third venue, Armorica Grande Brasserie, on April 20.

Armorica is being billed as a 150-seat restaurant that draws on classic Parisian brasserie culture in a contemporary way.

It will take over the site that had been occupied by Toko over the past 15 years.

Amorica is named after an ancient Celtic region that once encompassed much of modern-day Brittany and spanned into what would later become Paris.

“Armorica is a Parisian brasserie that embraces the timeless charm of classic French dining," says Becher. "We want to bring the fun, energy and excitement of dining in the city of light right here on Crown Street.”

The menu will centre around wood-fired cooking and executive chef Jose Saulog (ex Bells of Kilcare) aims to showcase the best of Australian seafood and meat.



The menu will feature small plates including a coral trout crudo with finger lime; as well as Foie Gras ‘Torchon’ (top image).

Also featured will be a seafood tower featuring oysters, prawn cocktail, octopus roulade and rock lobster, as a well as a classic steak frites.

Armorica's wine list spans 400+ labels with a focus on some of the classic wine regions of the world.

Becher has collaborated with renowned American Illustrator David Plunkert on a selection of original art that will feature throughout the restaurant.

Let's hope it is good as another French eatery in Surry Hills: chef Jacob Brown's late, lamented Tabou.   
Armorica is located at 490 Crown St, Surry Hills, and will open for dinner Tuesday to Sunday and lunch Friday to Sunday. See www.armorica.com.au

Major milestone for Bistro Moncur

Sydney restaurants come and go like the seasons, but much-loved Bistro Moncur is celebrating its 30th birthday this year.

The venue has delivered sophisticated French-accented cuisine since opening in 1993 and as part of the celebrations, head chef Tom Deadman has created a series of new dishes to join the signature classics.

The restaurant is also hosting a series of events celebrating the milestone.

The line-up of events will kick off with a ‘Celebration of the Bistro Moncur Menu’ on Wednesday, April 26.

The line-up of chefs cooking as part of the event include Damien Pignolet (co-founder and original executive chef 1993-2011), Jason Roberts (head chef 1998-2002), Tom Walton (head chef 2008-2011) and current head chef Deadman.

The quartet will offer a nostalgic four-course dinner with matched wines from the restaurant’s award-winning wine list ($350pp).

On Thursday, June 22, Bistro Moncur will host a ‘French Winter Feast’ with matching wines ($350pp). In a nod to the restaurant’s intended direction for the next 30 years, Deadman will prepare a menu utilising truffle, preserved summer fruits and premium locally sourced ingredients.

The third and final event will take place in October, with further details to be announced soon.

Bistro Moncur co-owner Alister Campbell said: “We’re so grateful for our chefs and employees, past and present, who are custodians of the Bistro Moncur legacy. 

"Their service and professionalism are paramount to customers returning over the years and we look forward to welcoming them for our 30th birthday celebrations.”

See https://www.bistromoncur.com.au/

Bistro Moncur is open for lunch on Thursday to Sunday from 12pm and dinner on Tuesday to Sunday from 5:30pm. 

French culinary delights in downtown Adelaide

There is something about a beautifully cooked French meal that instantly nourishes the soul.

The arrival earlier this year in Adelaide of Garcon Bleu means the City of Churches now has its own little gourmet slice of France.

Garcon Bleu, on level nine of the Sofitel in Currie Street, is a restaurant that happens to be in a hotel, rather than a hotel restaurant - and it was buzzing on a Wednesday night.

The $150 million new-build hotel offers guests a selection of 251 rooms and suites with a choice of city and Adelaide Hills views - a full review will follow - but the quality of the restaurant makes it a stand-alone destination. 

Think a casual ambience but a serious approach to classic French dishes using local produce. 

Garçon Bleu’s has a 90-seat dining room with an open kitchen, wine wall, and an oyster and raw seafood bar.

The wine list offers an excellent selection of French (lots of serious Burgundy temptations) and Australian labels, from favourites like Cullen and Henschke to micro producers like Ministry of Clouds and Stargazer.

Wines by the glass include labels like Shaw+Smith, Yangarra and John Duval.

It is the menu, however, that captivates.

Who could resist a light-as-air cheese souffle with bechamel sauce, mushroom velouté and pickled shimeji (above). 

This dish is an instant trip back to one the bouchons in Lyon. Tempting scallops and the terrine will have to wait until next time.

For main course, what else but classic steak frites? 

A 250-gram grass-fed Scotch fillet (below), with a spot-on béarnaise sauce and deliciously crunchy pommes frites. The side salad, was, sadly, a little dull - but who cares when a meat dish is this tasty. And it comes with some sparky little vine tomatoes bursting with flavour.

Dessert choices include a tarte tatin with crème fraîche ice cream and caramel sauce, or a creme brulee, but I opted for chocolat fondant with orange segments, cocoa nibs and chocolate mousse. The right choice, I think.

The service here is spot on and you can enjoy a three-course dinner for around $100 per head, which is great value these days given the quality of food and service.

If I lived in Adelaide I would be eating here a couple of times a month.

Garcon Bleu is open Wednesday to Friday for lunch from noon and Wednesday to Sunday for dinner from 6pm. Reservations are recommended on (08) 8432 1999. See https://garconbleu.com.au/

# The writer was a guest of Sofitel Adelaide

A taste of France to arrive in Sydney CBD

The hospitality industry revival continues with the opening of Manon, a European brasserie from Sydney hospitality veterans Marco Ambrosino and Manny Spinola, in Sydney's Queen Victoria Building on June 10.

Occupying the former Jet Cafe site, Manon's menus will echo classic French brasseries and be overseen by French-born head chef Thomas Boisselier. 

The opening of Manon follows the team's successful launch of Lola’s in Bondi in 2021.

 

Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner daily, Manon will also offer a late-night supper service on Fridays and Saturdays, with coffee and takeaway viennoiseries (pastries) and pain baguette (paninis) available from 6am. 

The venue will accommodate 60 inside and 80 outside.

 

Co-owner Spinola said: “I have walked past the site for 24 years, dreaming of opening a grand cafe, which is why I am so thrilled to be in partnership with Marco to bring a French brasserie to the QVB.

"Manon will be a place to sit and people watch while enjoying French cuisine, giving customers a taste of the European lifestyle, whether it’s at breakfast before work, a long lunch or an ambient dinner.”

No idea what an ambient dinner is, but I'm just reporting the quote. 

 

Head chef Boisselier brings over a decade of experience, having spent the last two years working in Lyon, most recently as deputy head chef at three-Michelin starred restaurant at the Hotel & Spa du Castellet.

 

The breakfast menu includes: egg meurette; crab on toast; pain perdu; and croque madame.

Lunch and dinner choices includes raw bar with oysters shucked to order and a caviar offering, along with saucisson brioche; bone marrow tartine; and steak frites. 

The dinner menu further builds on the lunch menu with evening-only dishes such as crab bisque souffle, beef Wellington, canard a l’orange and a whole sole meunière.

The dessert menu features French classics including vanilla souffle and ile flottante.

The Manon wine list - initially crafted by now-departed sommelier Harry Hunter - spans 400 bottles, predominantly from France, with Gosset Champagne by the glass.

 

Manon Brasserie, Queen Victoria Building, 55/455 George St, Sydney CBD. 

Phone: (02) 9051 2008

https://www.manonbrasserie.com.au/

Images: Nikki To 

Meet Adelaide's newest gourmet destination

 

Discover Adelaide's new gourmet destination: Garçon Bleu, a French eatery due to open on November 4. 

With elevated city views from its location on level nine of the new Sofitel Adelaide, the 90-seat restaurant aims to serve accessible French cuisine . 

Garçon Bleu's dining room boasts an open kitchen, an extensive wine wall, and an up-lit oyster and raw seafood bar. 

Executive head chef overseeing creative direction is Justin Dingle-Garciyya, who was classically French trained under Raymond Blanc at the two Michelin starred Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons in Oxford. 

He has worked at some of the world's best five-star hotels and resorts including for Aman Resorts and Jean Georges Vongerichten. 

“While Garcon Bleu honours the techniques of French cuisine, it colours outside the lines, delivering dishes that are modern in creation," he says. "We are making French cuisine more accessible and fun, and we are excited to present our unique take on it.”

Working alongside Dingle-Garciyya is Chef de Cuisine Gianni Delogu (above), who has previously worked at Melbourne restaurants Vue de monde and Grossi Florentino. 

Menu highlights include; twice-baked cheese soufflé with mushroom velouté and pickled shimeji mushrooms; Adelaide Hills 'Buzz Honey' glazed duck breast, duck leg bon-bon with an apricot and carrot puree and sauce a l'orange and sous vide Southern Rock Lobster tail, grilled watermelon and dessert lime with a bisque emulsion.

The menu includes a vegetarian offering to cater for the growing vegetarian, vegan and flexitarian markets.

Sommelier Trevor Maskell has curated a selection of French and Australian wines with several by the glass.

They range from Domaine Jean Dauvissat Chablis and Ministry of Clouds Picpoul to labels like Henschke.