I wish I had not opened this bottle of wine

Ever opened a bottle of wine and immediately regretted it? 

That was the case at the weekend when I tasted the 2022 vintage release of Vasse Felix's benchmark Tom Cullity cabernet blend. 

It was dark and inky, complex and full, a quality statement; but also taut and very young. 

The 2022 Tom Cullity will, in my opinion, be a much better drink in five years or more. 

Unfortunately when you write about wine and are sent a sample the expectation is that you will taste and review right away - not five years down the track. 

"We recently tasted through 10 years of this wine and the Tom Cullitty remains the same in its stature, meaning and beauty from the old vines, and tells the story of only the minor nuances of 10 beautiful seasons," says winemaker Virginia Willcock. 

"The 2022 simply looks vibrant, energetic, powerful and delicious. It is our timeless tribute from the original vines that shaped Margaret River cabernet."

Made from cabernet sauvignon (87%) with a small amount of malbec (14%) this vintage, Tom Cullitty has become an icon over the past decade. 

Willcock says the Vasse Felix team has "consistently found the wine is ready to drink after two years in the bottle, or three-and-a-half years of age". 

It is a good wine now, but I suspect it will be great, so I'm taking a chance on disagreeing with a leading winemaker and show judge. 

The 2022 Vasse Felix Tom Cullitty is made from fruit grown on 55-year-old vines, honours a regional pioneer who planted the Vasse Felix vineyards and will set you back $200 a bottle. It would make a terrific Christmas present. 

See https://www.vassefelix.com.au/

Calling Australian lovers of fine Bordeaux wines

 

Calling Australian lovers of fine Bordeaux wines blessed with deep pockets. 

Wines from the 2022 vintage from the Bordeaux wine region have landed in Australia though auction house and importers Langtons, with one of the largest and most comprehensive allocations of the vintage. 

The offering showcases both regional stalwarts and up-oand-coming producers.

Available via the Langtons website, the wines on offer will include Château Lafite Rothschild; Château Figeac; Château Pontet Canet; Château Cos d’Estournel and Château Canon with pricing starting at $50 all the way to rare investment-grade wines for $2,000 a bottle. 

“Bordeaux has been an integral part of our portfolio for many years here at Langtons, and we are so thrilled to be welcoming its latest 2022 vintage into our extensive collection from the French region,” says Langtons head of Wine & Spirits Ramon Gunasekara. 

“The 2022 vintage has already been hailed as one of Bordeaux’s best in recent history, and we are proud to be Australia’s destination to get access to these very special and iconic wines.”

The benchmark 2022 vintage saw extremely hot and dry conditions throughout the region, but despite the extreme weather, many producers crafted wines possessing power, ripeness and vibrancy akin to vintages such as 1961 and 1982, the Langtons team says. 

“Irrespective of fluctuations being seen in the market, it's a wonderful time to buy Bordeaux, both new and old,” says Langtons head of auctions Michael Anderson.

“Brilliant vintages in Bordeaux like 2022 make for an excellent investment opportunity with savvy investors finding the top wines of the vintage and squirreling away their share to watch their value rise in the secondary market.

"It's a great time for those looking for both younger and older examples of Bordeaux to add to their cellars with the market very well-priced across a range of vintages, with my top picks to look out for being 2000 and 2005.

"Bordeaux remains a cornerstone of global fine wine collecting and a long-term luxury investment."

Yalumba pays tribute to three decades of loyal service

Yalumba will pay tribute to an employee who has given three decades of service when it release the 51st vintage of its icon The Signature red blend next month. 

The 2022 wine is dedicated not to a winemaker, or viticulturist, but to former executive director of sales for Australia and New Zealand, Paul Midolo.

The label of each release of the Barossa Cabernet Shiraz bears the signature and story of an individual who has made a significant contribution to the culture and traditions of Yalumba.

"This year, the decision was easy," said fifth-generation proprietor Robert Hill-Smith ."We are going to honour Paul Midolo, who started 29 years ago with us in Queensland as an area manager and within six months was invited to become a sales manager.

Midolo retired from Australia's oldest family owned winery in December.

"Paul has held a variety of key roles in Australian distribution, building a distinguished career that will be fully documented in time," Hill-Smith said.

"His impact has been immense, and his departure sees a significant amount of humour and wisdom leave our company. He will be deeply missed.

"Paul's ability to build strong relationships across the business with our sales teams, our principal partners, and customers is a testament to him as a person."

Midolo said: "It has been a great, fun journey. The biggest thing I will miss is the people, the interaction, the support. They have made my journey enjoyable."

The Yalumba team is very happy with the 2022 The Signature.

"The 2022 vintage presented cool and mild conditions, allowing the grapes to achieve their full potential, producing a wine of precision and generosity," said Yalumba senior red winemaker Kevin Glastonbury.

"It is very much in keeping with The Signature style that wine connoisseurs have come to know and expect."

Yalumba The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon & Shiraz 2022 was released on May 1. 

I tasted it this week and it is an absolute ripper: beautifully composed with everything in its place. Elegant but with plenty of flavour; fruit and oak beautifully balanced. The ideal choice to take to a dinner party, or two share with fellow wine lovers. 

Glastonbury advises to decant it to enjoy now, or cellar for 15+ years. RRP $74.

See yalumba.com

Joint wine venture aiming for high marks

The d'Anna family never sits still.

The d’Annas have been selling wine and gourmet products to Melbourne residents for over 60 years at their Boccaccio Cellars store in Balwyn.

The family recently added a new wine bar/bistro, Enoteca Boccaccio, which quickly gained an Age Good Food Guide hat.

The family also owns the much-admired Hoddle Creek Estate winery in the Yarra Valley, producing superb-value wines under labels including 1er Yarra Valley, Hoddle Creek, Wickhams Road, along with several stand-alone offerings.

Hoddles Creek Estate was established in 1997 when the D'Anna family decided to establish a vineyard on the property that has been in the family since 1960.

All the wines are single vineyard, estate grown, and are made in a 300-tonne winery.

Just to make sure there are no dull moments, the d'Anna family is also involved in a small-batch DML VIN venture: D’Anna Middleton Lewis, with Sam Middleton and Jordan Lewis.

The brand focuses on single-site regional pinot noir with the first vintage being released in June 2019. The new 2022 releases are a contrasting pair from the Yarra Valley and the Mornington Peninsula, the Yarra wine is more ethereal, the Mornington offering more sturdy, and savoury.

The Mornington pinot is a blend from two vineyards on the Peninsula, one situated in Balnarring and the other in Merricks, while the Yarra wine comes from a well-regarded upper Yarra Valley vineyard. A fascinating contrast in styles.

Four-time AFL premiership player Jordan Lewis, ex Hawthorn and Melbourne, and his wife Lucy developed a love for wine when they spent time in Florence.



Upon returning to Australia, he wanted to explore the world of wine a little bit deeper. Through good fortune he met the d'Anna boys over social media and a friendship through wine was born.



Sam, meanwhile, is a third-generation winemaker from the Middleton family and has held the role of head winemaker at highly renowned Mount Mary since 2011.

His background includes stints at Coldstream Hills and Dominique Portet, as well as working in Burgundy.

Three different inputs; two stylish wines.

For more info see DML VIN

Positive signs for 2022 Tasmanian wines

The 2022 Tasmanian wine grape vintage was a decidedly mixed one with a wide range of weather conditions experienced around the island state.

Overall, the vintage delivered "excellent quality" across wine varieties and styles, with just over 900,000 dozen bottles produced (12,548 tonnes).

It also delivered another record for the value of Tasmanian wine grapes, up to a remarkable $3,237 per tonne compared with the national average of $630/tonne.

Wine Tasmania CEO Sheralee Davies said the 2022 vintage reflected the diversity of the island's microclimates, with contrasting seasonal conditions and resultant vineyard yields across various wine growing areas.

"Some wine growing areas experienced cooler than average temperatures and unseasonal rainfall, while others experienced warmer than average temperatures and limited rain," Davies said.

"We often discuss the significant variability impacting Tasmania's wine growing areas - no two seasons are the same and no two vineyards are the same - 2022 has clearly demonstrated this fact."

More low-pressure systems on the east coast resulted in cooler-than-average conditions across wine growing areas in the south east and along the east coast of Tasmania. The cooler year lengthened the growing season and delayed the start of harvest, but also produced depth of flavour and structure in wines.

During the season, the Tasmanian wine sector raised concerns about fires and smoke potentially impacting vineyards and wine grapes.

"While the Tasmanian wine sector is believed to have escaped any smoke damage in 2022, there were some fires which caused concerns, and we will be building on positive discussions during the season to request continuing improvements to fire policies and procedures in the future," Davies said.

"With strong and growing global demand for our wines, Tasmanian wine producers had hoped for both high quality and high yields in 2022, however, we'll happily accept the former if we have to choose just one."

The full 2022 Tasmanian wine grape vintage report and video interviews with wine producers can be accessed at www.winetasmania.com.au/vintage2022.