The Australian superstar chef who remains unknown at home

Neil Perry, Shannon Bennett and Matt Moran may have higher profiles at home, but Newcastle-born and raised Brett Graham is Australia’s most successful chef on the global stage.

Graham began his cooking career at Scratchley’s, “a simple Newcastle

Brett Graham

fish restaurant”, at the age of 15, but now has two Michelin stars at The Ledbury, Notting Hill, London, which is regarded as one of the best restaurants in Europe. He also has a share in acclaimed gastro pub The Harwood Arms.

Now 34, the man known to his friends as ‘Bazza’ worked under notoriously harsh taskmaster Liam Tomlin at Banc restaurant in Sydney, winning the Josephine Pignolet Award – for which he earned a trip to Britain. Working at The Square under chef Philip Howard, he was named ‘Young Chef of the Year’ in 2002.

For eight years, The Ledbury has been at the top level (it currently ranks No. 10 in Restaurant magazine’s new 2014 world’s 50 best restaurants list) and unlike many other celebrity chefs, Graham is almost always behind the pans, although he took a few days off to cook at a $1000-a-head Starlight Foundation fundraising dinner - his first trip to Sydney for five years - and for Qantas epiQure club members at the luxurious rural getaway Emirates Wolgan Valley Resort and Spa late last year.

He also found time to host a cooking class for Hunter TAFE students as part of his Brett Graham Scholarship program, which helps young Australian chefs reach the next level.

I sat down with Brett during his busy schedule to find out about his rise through the restaurant ranks and conducted this interview that first appeared in Selector Magazine: www.selectormagazine.com.au/

What was the biggest break you have had in your career thus far?

Winning the Josephine Pignolet Award for young chefs when I was working at Banc. I won a trip to London, a city I knew nothing about at the time, and ended up working at The Square, a two-hat Michelin restaurant in Mayfair. It was a different world. I learned a lot while I was working with Liam Tomlin – he ran a tight ship, but he was an amazing guy and it was a terrific learning experience. He was a fantastic mentor, a hard worker and it was the most important part of my career. He finished off a lot of chefs and taught them what it means to run a successful restaurant.

You only come back to Australia very occasionally. Any plans to return and open a restaurant at home?

Not in the immediate future, no. I’ve got a successful restaurant and am responsible for a lot of staff. I take that very seriously. I have an English wife, Natalie, and that is where my life is right now. We bought our first house in Richmond a couple of years ago and are nicely settled.

Brett Graham and Neil Perry at Wolgan Valley

What is the key to getting access to the best produce?

You have to build long-term relationships with your suppliers; that’s a major key to sourcing the best. You want produce that is prepared to your specifications, which is why I send my suppliers Christmas presents rather than the other way around. You want consistency and quality all the time. I’m on the phone from 7.30am each morning talking to suppliers to find out what is available for that night’s service.

What is the major difference between menus in Australia and those in Britain?

There is a real appetite in Britain for wild game and fowl. I’m a very keen hunter and I see a growing interest in dishes using ingredients like venison, pheasant and partridge. Australians should certainly be eating more kangaroo. I’m not into the idea of eating wombats or possums, but kangaroos need to be controlled and they produce very good quality meat.

What is the key to your approach?

It has to be seasonal produce; produce that reflects what is happening outside at that particular time. I also want my staff to go the extra mile to ensure that everyone dining at The Ledbury has the best possible experience. Eat seasonally, eat locally.

You’re one of the hardest workers in the industry. What drives you?

I like to be in my own restaurant, and like to be at the pans. I want to be there for lunch and for dinner and we do six lunches and seven dinners each week. I do have to have a day off every now and then. I only do charity stuff away from The Ledbury. I’m not into going to different events as a celebrity chef. All that means is that the standards at your own restaurant will eventually drop. I don’t care about what restaurant critics have to say about what we do, either – the most important reviews we get are from our customers. I’m not interested in looking after celebrities. The most important people are our regulars. I might recommend a steak medium-rare, but if a customers wants a steak well done, then that’s what he is going to get.

Are you a believer in wine and food matching?

We have four sommeliers on our team, which shows the importance we place on wine service. We have over half a million pounds worth of wine in our cellars, so we have some lovely mature wines. We tend to drink wine older in England than people do here where a lot of people are drinking 2011s and 2012s. It’s an eclectic list with anything from Bass Phillip to Felton Road and, my favourite, Château Lynch-Bages. Australian wine sells well, but not amazingly.

What has struck you about the hospitality industry while you have been at home?

It worries me that training here seems to have been cut back. Australian chefs have always had a reputation for being the most well-organised, the best drilled, but I think England now is putting more emphasis on training and is going forward, where Australia is going backwards. What Australia has to do is stop cutting back funding for TAFE training. It is so important for young people to get the best possible training and that’s why I’m so passionate about my scholarship program. Front of house also needs more recognition. It is a real skill to get waiting a table right.

The Ledbury lusciousness

What advice would you have for aspiring young chefs?

Travel internationally. It broadens the mind and exposes you to different ideas and flavours. I’m always happy to give talented people a chance. Any Australians who want to work at The Ledbury for a week or two should be encouraged. You have to give back.

How important would it be for you to win a third Michelin star and where do you see yourself in 10 years’ time?

If it happens it could change a whole lot of things, but the game plan is not about a third star, or about better cutlery, or putting more truffles on a dish, it is about making The Ledbury a terrific place to enjoy dinner. In 10 years’ time? No idea mate. Some part of me would love to have a farm, but that’s just a dream.

Want to be right at the centre of the Margaret River action?

There is one major choice to be made for visitors to Margaret River. 

Given it is a three-hour drive from Perth you are likely to need accommodation for at least a couple of nights (and for several to explore this beautiful region properly).

So do you want to stay out in the vineyards? Or where the restaurants and bars are, in Margaret River township. 

My preference is to have a long lunch at one of the many excellent winery restaurants (Voyager Estate, Leeuwin Estate, Vasse Felix, Hay Shed Hill, Cullen, Knee Deep, Aravina Estate and Xanadu among them) and then spend my evenings in town, where there are plenty of options right on the doorstep and driving is not necessary.

A new discovery (for me, anyway) is the delightful Traill apartments, directly above The Dome eatery and across the road from the Margaret River Visitors Centre. 

Whether you want to dine at Muster or Swings Taphouse, enjoy a beer or a glass of wine at one of the two pubs, or sample a range of ethnic foods, everything is but a stroll away. 

Deco Aparttment bedroom

Known as the Deco and Marine penthouses at The Traill, the two apartments are in contrasting styles but both beautifully equipped for a short- or long-term stay, including for self-catering. 

Housed in a French provincial-style building to reflect the South West’s connection with the French explorers, the two upmarket penthouses each have two bedrooms and plenty of room in which to relax and entertain.

The Deco Penthouse has a classical Art Deco style with French doors leading out to an expansive terrace that's ideal for a late afternoon aperitif or a cocktail party, while the Marine Penthouse has blue and white decor, French shutters and a definite seaside vibe.

Marine Apartment lounge 

Both are equipped with air conditioning, TV and DVD systems, cooking facilities, wi-fi, laundry facilities, Foxtel channels, private phones and bath/shower/spa in each en suite bathroom.

This adults-only accommodation features luxurious king-size beds and is surprisingly quiet given the location - and also has its own off-street parking. 

The Traill, 99 Bussell Highway, Margaret River, 6285. (0409109241). www.thetraill.com.au. There is a two-night minimum stay requirement.

     

Queenscliff - the perfect place to do absolutely nothing

There are few places where strolling around doing nothing are as appealing as Queenscliff, once the de rigueur holiday destination for Melbourne’s rich and famous.

Many Victorian-era buildings and an old-style pier (right) remain intact in this historic old resort town, 30 kilometres from Geelong by road and a ferry ride from Sorrento on the Mornington Peninsula.

Many visitors enjoy taking a steam train ride along part of the old railway track to Melbourne, while others are content just to walk out along the pier past the stoic fishermen.

This is also a slow-paced shoppers’ heaven with a wide range of arts and crafts stores, old-fashioned sweet shops, places selling hand-made jewellery (my wife was particularly taken by the earrings at Portobello and underwent some retail therapy) and second-hand bookshops. There are half-a-dozen galleries selling the work of local artists.

The Vue Grand Hotel serves modern cuisine to an appreciative local audience. Casual Ginger Mai's and the Couta Boat Café are also popular.

We were also delighted to find an excellent providores store that would not be out of place in Paddington or South Yarra; Farm Foods.

There are probably a couple of dozen places to stay if sea breezes and long walks are your thing, ranging from the Athelstane House and the venerable Vue Grand to self-catering options including Banks at Queenscliffe and Ruby's bed and breakfast. 

The Vue Grand is an iconic and historic 32-room boutique hotel with a range of comfortable  accommodation, including the Turret Suite with its magical water views. 

Try the Grand Dining Room for a fine experience (sample a five-course menu for $85, or $135 matched withe Bellarine Peninsula wines), or perhaps the Vue Street Bar for a more relaxed meal and a glass or two of craft beer.

The Vue Grand Hotel, 46 Hesse Street, Queenscliff, Victoria. (03) 5258 1544. www.vuegrand.com.au. 

    

A fun and funky Bangkok hotel with gourmet options

Some hotels give off the right vibe from the moment you enter the lobby.

In the case of the Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, that vibe is ultra-cool. This after all, is a hotel that has female DJ spinning chill-out tunes right across the way from the check-in desk.

Formerly the Sofitel Silom, the refurbed and re-imagined Pullman stands out from the crowd in a city that is chock-a-block with classy and affordable hotels.

It's a big hotel, something that doesn't always sit well with me, that features 469 stylish rooms (think almost all-white decor) with floor-to-ceiling windows that overlook the impressive and constantly changing Bangkok skyline.

The hotel, unashamedly aiming for a market of hipsters, has a good selection of food and beverage outlets, 12 meeting spaces, a fitness centre, open-air pool and spa. But it is the staff, uniformly cheerful and helpful, that play just as big a role as the the hotel's urban attitude.

I liked the speedy check-in, the snack bar and bar in the lobby, the comfortable lobby chairs and the ground-floor 24-hour burger bar a lot. I liked the videos playing in the lifts, and the art installations. 

But I liked my well-equipped room even more. Spacious and bright, its features included a pillow menu, bathrooms with separated bathtub and shower, Roger & Gallet bathroom amenities, iPod and iPad docking station, free wi-fi in all areas, satellite/cable TV with a good choice of overseas channels, minibars, coffee and tea facilities and flat-screen TVs. 

For those with the cash to flash, G Suite rooms offer personalised private check in and butler service, along with large separate living areas and private bars, and there are also executive floors with access to a private lounge. 

The hotel also offers concierge and secretarial services - and there are free Mac computers in the lobby for guests to use. 

The star of the show, however, is Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant (right) with its panoramic views of the Bangkok skyline. This buzzing bar and bistro has an excellent selection of both cocktails and wine, and the city’s largest selection of cheeses, charcuterie and tapas.

The 25 Degrees restaurant serves real burgers around the clock in a milkbar-themed setting while Playground, over two levels, is a laid-back cocktail bar.

Impressive breakfasts are served in the Mistral Restaurant, which somehow lacks the energy of the rest of the hotel. 

With early bird rooms here starting from around $90 a night, it's easy to enjoy five-star luxury at three-star prices.

Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, Silom, 188 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500

T. +66 2238 1991. www.pullmanbangkokhotelG.com. 

Thai Airways International flies 40 times a week from Australia to Bangkok with connections domestic Thailand, Asia, India and Europe, South Africa and Los Angeles. For more information, quotes and bookings visit thaiairways.com.au.
  

Luxury on a pauper's budget: Hobart's latest accommodation star

Is it a hotel? Not really. Is it a guesthouse? Not exactly. Is it a hostel? Well not like any hostel you've stayed in before.

Rose Flynn and Antony Langdon, the young owners of Hobart's newest chic accommodation offering, call their new property Montacute Boutique Bunkhouse. 

Picture: Nick Osborne 

Open just a week, it has been described as being perfect for those with Champagne tastes on a beer budget.

A beautifully restored 1895 mansion in the suburb of Battery Point (with an extension built in 1910), Montacute has delightful gardens, plenty of car parking and is within walking distance of both Salamanca Place and downtown Hobart. 

From the outside it looks gracious; and inside is a revelation with recent renovations and some tasteful decorating resulting in what looks like a chic, boutique hotel with lovely lounges, verandahs and nooks and crannies. 

The bedrooms, too, are simple but delightful. All feature beds with crisp cotton linen, duvets, woollen blankets and fluff pillows with reading lamps and power points for all and free wi-fi throughout the property. 

So how, then, can double rooms in this delightful establishment cost just $50 per person per night? And shared room with bunks (ideal for backpackers or groups of children) cost just $40 per person? 

The answer is that none of the rooms have en suite bathrooms; all washing facilities are shared. 

Which Langdon and Flynn don't see as an issue for most of their guests.

"Since we've opened we've found a lot of people would prefer to save a couple of hundred dollars a night on accommodation and spend that money enjoying Hobart's many gourmet offerings," they say. 

There is nothing wrong with the bathrooms. They are modern and impeccably clean. And unless Montacute is full to capacity there should be no issues with waiting for a shower or to brush your teeth. 

So Montacute is luxurious and welcoming - and brilliantly situated - if you are willing to compromise on having your own facilities.

Cooking facilities include a spacious kitchen with a range of appliances like microwaves and sandwich makers, crockery, cutlery, pots and pans and plenty of fridge and freezer space for those who wish to self cater, although there are also several good takeaway food outlets in the neighbourhood. 

There is a long dining table, and tables for two on the upper and lower balconies, as well as outdoor tables with umbrellas and picnic rugs for those who want to laze on the lawn with a glass of Tasmanian pinot noir (Montacute is BYO right now but plans a wine list focusing on local producers).

The bunkhouse hires out brand new bicycles for $25 a day, or $20 after 1pm and also organizes a range of excursions to the likes of the Huon and the Derwent valleys. 

I can see many people in rural Tasmania using it as an overnight accommodation option after attending the theatre or a concert in Hobart. But they might have to fight off canny interstate and overseas visitors for a room, or bunk.

Montacute Boutique Bunkhouse, 1 Stowell Avenue, Battery Point. Hobart. (03) 6212 0474. www.montacute.com.au. 

A little slice of Launceston luxury

Launceston is a delightful city - the gateway to the Tamar Valley and full of historic buildings and beautiful parks. 

Settled in 1806, Launceston is one of Australia's oldest cities and was named after Launceston in Cornwall. There are many well-preserved Victorian and Georgian homes.

It retains a very English feel and moves at the pace of country town. Locals and visitors alike enjoy a mix of top-notch eateries like Stillwater, Black Cow Bistro and Novaro's as well as many charming cafes (head to the Charles Street precinct for some of the best). 

Spectacular Cataract Gorge, with its chairlift rides, the Queen Victoria Museum and Art Gallery and City park with its Japanese macaque monkeys are all popular leisure destinations.

Tasmania's second-largest city, often overshadowed by Hobart, is at the junction of the North Esk and South Esk Rivers, where they join to become the Tamar River, as is arguably the city's best hotel.

I've stayed at Peppers Seaport (above) several times, most recently a couple of weeks ago, and always been impressed by its dramatic setting overlooking the water - but less so by the staff, some of whom have been a little, shall we say, sharp and distracted.

Not so on my most recent visit when the service could not have been better, even though I was mysteriously allocated a disabled person's suite, suitable for someone in a wheelchair.

No matter. The suite had spectacular marina views and was spacious and well equipped with iPod dock, satellite TV and wi-fi capability. Some guests get complimentary wi-fi. 

Just a short walk from Launceston town centre and 15 minutes drive from Launceston Airport the hotel is built in the shape of a ship on the site of an old dry dock. 

And the accommodation is very stylish. You can pick up a luxury marina view suite on internet booking sights for around $260 - which is great value - and other rooms and suites are even more affordable with city view rooms starting from around $169.

Mud Bar and Restaurant, now run by former Stillwater chef Don Cameron, is part of the same complex and the waterfront Seaport strip with its cafes and eateries (including a fish and chippery) is just a few paces away. 

The hotel gives guests a voucher for their car window to prevent parking issues and is 15 minutes' drive from both Launceston Airport and the start of the Tamar Valley Wine Route. 

Peppers Seaport Hotel, 28 Seaport Boulevard, Launceston. (03) 6345 3333. www.peppers.com.au/seaport