New wine bar option for Sydney vinophiles

Sydney wine lovers have yet another wine bar in which to taste an impressive range of local and imported vinos. 

Mister Percy, a Mediterranean-style wine bar and kitchen housed in the heritage-inspired designer boutique hotel Ovolo 1888 Darling Harbour opened this week. 

Named after Percy Ewart, a former wool classer at the original woolstore who also made his mark (literally) by etching his name in the sandstone building, Mister Percy offers both a menu and wine list inspired by the arc of countries surrounding the Mediterranean.

The former 19th-century warehouse fronting Murray Street, Pyrmont, will be open every night of the week from 6pm and will seat up to 60. 

Leading chef Justin North (hello Justin!) has collaborated with Ovolo Hotels and head chef Luca Guiotto (ex-A Tavola, Catalina) to develop a coastal European menu showcasing Mediterranean flavours and techniques. 

It includes a selection of skewered snacks or pinxtos, small and larger share-style dishes and Australian artisan cheeses, such as Holy Goat and Pyengana. 

Signature plates include citrus-cured hiramasa kingfish with horseradish yoghurt; and pinxtos such as manchego cheese, prosciutto and picholine olives. 

Ovolo Hotels' group wine curator, Shun Eto, has curated a 100-strong list mainly of Mediterranean-style wines and varietals. 

The vibe is towards smaller producers (with the winemaker highlighted), including AJ Hoadley from La Violetta, Conor van der Reest from Moorilla, Mike Aylward from Ocean Eight and Vanya Cullen from Cullen.

Many of the wines are offered by quartino (250ml pours) and there is a good selection of wines from Italy, Spain etc, although none from Portugal or Croatia. There is a de rigueur sprinkling of natural wines, including Radikon. 

A pity no-one proofread the wine list, however. I see at least nine typos or inconsistencies.  

Mister Percy is open seven days a week 5-11pm Monday-Saturday and 5-10pm on Sundays. 

Mister Percy, 139 Murray Street, Pyrmont, (02) 8586 1888. www.misterpercy.com.au. 

Brisbane undergoing a massive hotel boom

Queensland's biggest city is riding a new hotel boom with eight new properties having opened during the first seven months of 2018 and several more in the pipeline. 

From glamping to riverside wharf residences, to five-star digs and a 1920s bank-cum-220-room hotel, each new property is adding to Brisbane's vibe. 

Here's your guide to a rapidly changing landscape: 

Adina Apartment Hotel Brisbane

One of Brisbane CBD's heritage buildings, the 1922 sandstone-clad Queensland Government Savings Bank building, has been transformed into the 220-room Adina Apartment Hotel, featuring spacious apartments complete with a kitchen, laundry and living room, and studio rooms with a kitchenette. There is an indoor pool, a fitness centre and Chinese fine dining restaurant, Donna Chang is ready to open. www.tfehotels.com/adina 

The Valley Brisbane 

Ovolo hotel group is continuing its Brisbane expansion with the transformation of the former Emporium Hotel Fortitude Valley. It will be known as Ovolo The Valley by the end of 2018. New food and drink concepts and the celebrated 'freebies' (free mini bar, breakfast, wifi, happy hour and all-day snacks) will be introduced to complete the revolution. www.thevalleybrisbane.com.au

W Brisbane

W Brisbane is the first five-star hotel to open in Brisbane, and it's the only Australian city with a W Hotel. Located at 300 George Street, the W Brisbane boasts three bars and restaurants (including the renowned Three Blue Ducks from The Farm at Byron Bay) in addition to 312 guest rooms. The design of the hotel pays tribute to the local Indigenous culture and the river culture that defines Brisbane. www.starwoodhotels.com/whotels/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=4187&language=en_US

  

Novotel South Bank, Brisbane 

The Novotel South Bank is linked by a walkway with the Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre. There is an on-site restaurant, outdoor pool and gym. Think Fairtrade bathroom amenities and free barista coffee at breakfast. www.novotelbrisbanesouthbank.com.au

Sanctuary by Sirromet, Mt Cotton 

Queensland's first winery glamping experience is a 30 minute-drive south of Brisbane at Sirromet Wines Estate. Currently, 18 'Sanctuary by Sirromet,' safari-style glamping tents reside on the 20-acre property among the natural flora and wildlife . All are fully furnished with decks. www.sactuarybysirromet.com  

Ovolo Inchcolm Hotel, Spring Hill

The first Brisbane hotel for Hong Kong hospitality group Ovolo. Located in Spring Hill, the 1924-built Georgian hotel and former medical practice boasts 50 guest rooms, including a two-bedroom General Macarthur suite, named after the five-star US Army Chief of Staff who was treated there while stationed in Brisbane during World War II. www.ovolohotels.com.au/ovoloinchcolm/

The Sebel Brisbane, Margate Beach

A boutique hotel in Moreton Bay, this is the ninth property to operate under the Sebel brand in Queensland. The $15 million-dollar hotel opened in May and features 58 rooms boasting a minimalist decor, a rooftop function space, pool and conference facilities. www.thesebelbrisbanemargatebeach.com 

FV by Peppers, Fortitude Valley

Located on the edge of Brisbane Central Business District, this luxury apartment building  is the newest addition to Fortitude Valley's accommodation offering, with one and two-bedroom apartments. There are superb views and a heated u-shaped skyline pool with swim up pool bar on level six, a moonlight cinema and a yoga retreat. www.peppers.com.au/fv/

And still to open: Emporium 2, South Bank (opening August 2018), The Calile Hotel, Fortitude Valley (opening September 2018), The Westin Brisbane (opening November 2018), Howard Smith Wharves, Fortitude Valley (opening late 2018). 

Underwater artworks to become new Whitsundays tourism attraction

Langford Reef in the Whitsunday Islands will become home to new installation of underwater and inter-tidal art.

A trial installation of the artwork is being funded through the Queensland Government and Federal Government’s $7 million Tourism Recovery Fund to assist the Whitsundays tourism industry post Cyclone Debbie.

Federal Member for Dawson George Christensen welcomed the new local attraction as a way to drive tourism growth.

“It’s great to see more attractions being installed in the Whitsunday region, to help attract more domestic and international visitors here,” he said.

Tourism Industry Development Minister Kate Jones said four sculptures by local artist Adriaan Vanderlugt were unveiled to the public last weekend at the Whitsundays Reef Festival at Airlie Beach.

“We know that to lure more visitors to the Whitsundays, we need to invest in new tourism product,” she said.

“Tourism is crucial to creating new jobs in this region, that’s why we’re backing this initiative to create a unique attraction in the Whitsundays.

“This artwork will provide a new experience for people travelling to the Whitsundays and will help the marine tourism industry recover after Cyclone Debbie.

“Around the world - from the Caribbean, to the Maldives, Spain, Bali and Australia’s west coast, underwater art has been used to lure visitors." 

The artworks include fish, a nudibranch mollusc and a crab and vary in size with the nudibranch 1.8 metres long and weighing about 300 kilograms.

Reef Ecologic Director Dr Adam Smith said “The four artworks will provide a ‘proof of concept’ research opportunity to document the reactions of locals and tourists visiting the artworks in a marine setting,” he said.

“We propose to install the artworks in early August and move them from the beach to intertidal to underwater environments a month at a time and the artworks will be secured and monitored to prevent interference and damage.” 

Full Moon seafood feasts a welcome addition to the Hobart dining scene

Do you enjoy fresh seafood, cool-climate Tasmanian wines, shared tables and a view into an open kitchen?

If so, you will almost certainly enjoy the new monthly Seafood Feasts at the Old Wharf Restaurant at Macq 01 Hotel in Hobart.

The key is being willing to share and meet new people; everything else flows along quite merrily.

I attended the second Seafood Feast (they coincide with the full moon and will be held al fresco over the summer months).

Our small group shared appetisers of ceviche-style stripey trumpeter with buttermilk and pickled fennel; grilled sardines on toast, new-season scallops in their shell with nduja crumb and smoked-eel steamed buns with radish and cucumber.

The dull trumpeter was not a triumph, but the other three dishes all shone.

Next came Spanish mackerel with beetroot, pomegranate and pickled onion, beautifully cooked; moist and flavoursome.

The highlight was whole baked snapper with tarragon beurre blanc, served with saffron Huon Valley potatoes, mussels, roast cauliflower salad, local leaves, currants and almonds. This was served expertly at the table by chef Simon Pockran, who was happy to chat about the menu.

My personal view was the buerre blanc was overly flavoured with tarragon, but my dining companions disagreed, wolfing down seconds and thirds. The fish was delightfully fresh, though.

Dessert was dark chocolate with butternut pumpkin, caramelised pecans and cinnamon - a triumph.

A very knowledgeable wine waiter offered a selection of wines to accompany the dishes ($75) or by the glass. The names included local heroes Bangor, Glaetzer-Dixon, Sinapius and Mewstone, along with a Niepoort Late Bottled Vintage Port with pudding.

A very welcome addition to the Hobart dining landscape. 

The next Full Moon Seafood Feasts will be held on August 26, September 25 and October 25, starting from 7pm. The feasts cost $95 per person with the option of matched wines at an additional cost.

The Old Wharf is at Macq 01, 18 Hunter Street, Hobart. For bookings see: www.macq01.com

Serious food and a fun vibe in Sydney's hip dining precinct

It is a Monday night at Kensington Street, one of Sydney's hippest new dining precincts.

While the suburbs may be snoozing, Kensington Street's eateries, bars and cafes are doing a roaring trade.

There's a friendly vibe, too, and I'm grateful to the PR friend who asked me to go exploring. So grateful that I return the next day for some further investigation.

Award-winning Automata, where Clayton Wells is the man behind the pans, and lively Kensington Street Social, where I have dined previously, are two of the main drawcards of the precinct, but both are closed on Monday nights.

Instead, I am visiting chic Sicilian-themed Olio (below) and the hip Eastside Kitchen and Bar for dessert.

With a post-industrial chic theme, Kensington Street comprises part of a former brewery building with a range of wharehouse-style eateries, converted heritage cottages and 11 hawker-style outlets on Spice Alley (below).

There are 12 different restaurants, four bars and a couple of cafes as well as the much-vaunted Old Clare Hotel.

Kensington Street fully launched in 2017 with the opening of Olio, Eastside Kitchen and Bar and The Private Kitchen within the Old Rum Store building.

The precinct is the creation of Dr Stanley Quek and is part of the $2 billion Central Park redevelopment - Sydney’s largest mixed-use project featuring apartments, offices, retail and eateries. 

Dr Quek had a dream to create a community and Kensington Street forms the heart of this vision with its its edgy, but completely safe, atmosphere.

First stop Olio, with some very tasty Sicilian cuisine that uses olive oil from chef-patron Lino Sauro's family farm in Sicily.

After an amuse bouche of smoked salmon; some freshly shucked oysters, natural and with a raspberry vinaigrette, and citrus-charred Freemantly River octopus on crushed lemon potato salad, mint-roasted capsicum and olive powder (above). 

Both are beautifully exucuted and served with aplomb by our charming waitress, a native of Napoli.

The mains shine even brighter, however, with my companion impressed by his Controfilleto (char-grilled Derby Wagyu sirloin with portobello mushroom and beef jus, and myself opting for a quite superb raviolo dish made with king prawns, black truffle and burrata sauce. Sensational!

There is a style about this casual place with serious food; quality ingredients are treated with respect in the kitchen, the staff are both amusing and informed, and the wine list has a distinctly Sicilian focus with a good range of wines available by the glass.

We would have happily enjoyed dessert here here, but headed instead down the stairs to Eastside Kitchen, where a spectacular "Fire and Ice" dessert platter awaited us.

The dessert selection on the $44 platter differs depending on what’s in stock and what the chef picks; but all of his electic choices were delicious.

Part meal, part performance art, this is highly recommended for for anyone on a romantic date.

The next lunchtime I check out Spice Alley, a slightly less chaotic take on a Singapore hawker bazaar with 11 outlets that dish up a diverse selection of Asian cuisine to hungry office workers. The experience is BYO and speeded up by cash-free transactions.

My choice of sambal fish (below) proves a spicy and affordable winner. 

Kensington Street is home to a large line-up of events with everything from spectacular block parties that see up to 30,000 visitors to intimate Michelin-starred chef dining series on the calendar.

It has become known for its block parties such as the Lunar New Year and FRINGE festival events, which combine street performances, themed workshops, food and music.

Kensington Street is also home to 10 unique event spaces which cater to everything from Chef’s table private dining, weddings and product launches. The precinct is open daily from 10am till 11pm (hopefully it will open later in the future).

For full details see www.kensingtonstreet.com.au 

The writer was a guest of Kensington Street but returned at his own expense  

Angry Italian winemakers up the ante

First Italian winemakers were unhappy with Australians calling sparkling wines Prosecco. Now they want to stop anyone other than Italians from using the name Nero d'Avola.

That's a little like the French demanding everyone else in the world stop using the words Pinot Noir to describe their wines, but the Italians are threatening legal action. 

The Winemakers’ Federation of Australia (WFA) has hit back at the Italian claims, 

providing the following response signed by chief executive Tony Battaglene.

Australian Nero d'Avola. Pic: VinoDiversity

"WFA fully supports the notion that Australian wine should not be marketed as “Sicilian” or from “Sicily”," the organisation said in its statement. "To draw the conclusion, however, that UK merchants should 'block the selling of Australian wines bearing the name of the variety Nero d’Avola on their wine labels' is completely ludicrous."

While the Nero d’Avola grape variety may be native to Sicily, according to the International Organisation of Vine and Wines International List Of Vine Varieties And Their Synonyms, Nero d’Avola is a recognised grape variety for use in Australia since 2011 and is also recognised in Argentina, Bulgaria, Portugal, France and Italy. 

In Australia, it is produced in South Australia, Victoria, Western Australia, Queensland and New South Wales across at least 20 Australian Geographical Indication (GI) regions.

"It is apparent that this is yet another thinly vailed (I think they mean veiled) attempt to restrict the use of grape varieties indigenous to Italy to Italian producers," the WFA said. "Whether it is Prosecco, Nero d’Avola, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, or others, the fact remains that these are all internationally recognised grape varieties, which are produced outside of Italy.

"This protectionist behaviour, which seeks to utilise GI protection to restrict trade of the varieties, is harmful to the whole wine sector and does a great disservice to our great industry. 

"Italian producers make great wine and should be proud of what they do. Rather than seeking to restrict trade, we fully support the ability to present and describe our wines with the grape variety name to fully inform consumers, within an open and free trading environment.

"Above all else, the rights of international wine producers to grow, produce and label grape varieties must be maintained in all markets and WFA will continue to fight for these rights."