A fusion of flavours is a Sydney feast for the senses

Nikkei cuisine is a fusion of Peruvian and Japanese flavours.

It is served in an elevated form at Callao, one of the standout restaurants in the Streets of Barangaroo gourmet precinct on the Sydney waterfront.

Opened just over a year ago, the flavours on offer at the 104-seat eatery have clearly hit the target.

There is a hip young crowd on hand: both the customers and the very efficient servers.

And the quality of the food, with the two distinctive cuisines delivering intriguing combinations, is matched by a drinks list peppered with cocktails, Japanese whiskies, and some astutely chosen wines (think names like O’Leary Walker, Bream Creek, Giant Steps and Moss Wood by the glass).

Japanese Peruvian cuisine is a global trend right now and Nikkei is the word used to describe immigrants of Japanese origin - of which there are many in Peru.

Nikkei food is characterized by its use of the wide variety of ingredients available to Peru, including aji amarillo, an emulsion of the South American chilli pepper.

The Callao menu blends traditional techniques with vibrant ingredients - every dish on the Chef's Selections tasting menu ($119 per person) offered myriad flavours, but with a real sense of cohesive style.

You are taken out of your comfort zone - but remain very comfortable.

Mainstays include fresh seafood like tiradito, marinated in zesty Peruvian sauces, and Baby octopus with tomato, green olives, saffron potatoes, chickpeas and chili oil.

 

After some warm edamame beans with smoked salt, our starters were a stunning scampi tartare with crispy rice, truffle mayo, avocado puree, pickled jalapeno and Siberian caviar - a very upmarket fish finger (above) - and a delightfully tangy salmon ceviche with aji amarllo, leche de tigre (a zesty Peruvian marinade made with lime juice, fish, and spices), toasted corn and sweet potato puree (below).

Then came Skull Island tiger prawns with aji panca (red pepper) bisque, sea urchin mayo and tabiko (flying fish roe) mayo (below); and Wagyu tri-tip with smoked date teriyaki, aji amarillo mayo and togarishi spices. Both extremely moreish. 

Main course is a chuck tail flap steak with with yuzu koshu butter, shitake jus and house mustard, served with with hasselback potato, quezo fresca, aji amarillo and dried sisho (below).

The final touch is "cheesecake" with toasted corn, finger lime, milk skin and avocado ice cream,

Tradition with a few twists and turns. Delightful flavours; great service, sensible portions. Highly recommended.  

For those wondering, Callao is a Peruvian seaside city and region on the Pacific Ocean in the Lima metropolitan area.

 

Callao is open for lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday and is at 100 Barangaroo Avenue, Barangaroo, Sydney. callao.com.au.

Images: Anna Kucera, Winsor Dobbin

# The writer was hosted by Callao

Underwater dining a true multi-cultural experience

Talk about multi-cultural.

How about a resort operated by a Thai-based hotel group in the Maldives with a restaurant showcasing Japanese-Peruvian cuisine led by a French chef?

Oh, and the Subsix restaurant at Niyama Private Islands Maldives is underwater just to give it another point of difference.

Subsix, named for its spectacular setting 500 metres out to sea and six metres below the surface, has hosted a series of novel experiences, from champagne breakfasts to midnight glow parties, since its launch over a decade ago.

Surrounded by a wall of glass, sun-dappled corals, a rainbow of anemone and butterfly fish, and with the occasional reef shark swimming by, each minute underwater is magical, a truly once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Subsix has just launched a new Nikkei fusion tasting menu that marries "Japanese tradition and precision with Peruvian boldness and artistry".

The five courses showcase local seafood with dishes that include scallop ceviche; wahoo tartare with swirls of avocado and a hint of spice; and buttery cod with crisp asparagus.

The menu has been crafted by executive chef Thierry Vergnault, who trained at the Four Seasons Hotel George V in Paris.

“With a setting as extraordinary as Subsix, nothing less than an extraordinary menu will do”, says Vergnault. “It demands one that intrigues all five senses and excites the palate with every bite. And as with all our restaurants, we take great pride in showcasing fresh, quality ingredients straight from the beautiful waters that surround us.”

One to add to the bucket list, but there are nine restaurants and bars at Niyama in total.

The resort is operated by Bangkok-based Minor Hotels. 

Visit niyama.com

Machu Picchu makes its way to Sydney

Machu Picchu is one of the most awe-inspiring sites on earth and will be showcased at the Australian Museum’s (AM) summer highlight: Machu Picchu and the Golden Empires of Peru.

The exhibition will open in Sydney on Saturday, November 23, with tickets now on sale.

The immersive museum experience which spill the secrets of five ancient Peruvian Empires, dating back more than 3000 years.

Created by Peru’s Museo Larco and Museo de Sito Manuel Chavez Ballon, in conjunction with Neon Global, the exhibition features 134 priceless artefacts including gold treasure from royal tombs, glittering jewels, intricate masks and objects of worship.

Visitors will also be able to enjoy the Virtual Reality experience Machu Picchu and the Spirit of the Condor, which includes a bird’s-eye tour of Machu Picchu while sharing the intriguing story of grand Inca emperor Pachacuti.

Australian Museum Director and CEO, Kim McKay AO, said the venue is honoured to host the collection, including the most opulent collection of Andean gold to ever travel outside of Peru.

“One of the Seven Wonders of the World, Machu Picchu is a top bucket-list destination for many Australians, and this exhibition will further inspire visitors with its state-of-the-art storytelling alongside treasures from these intriguing ancient empires,” she said.

The exhibition is exclusive to the Australian Museum and Sydney will be only the fourth city in the world to host it, following in the footsteps of Boca Raton, Florida; Paris and Milan.

The Australian consul-general of Peru, José Alberto Ortiz, said the exhibition will contribute to the cultural connection between Peru and Australia.

“I’m delighted that the Australian Museum will be hosting this exhibition highlighting the rich history and culture of ancient Peru, enabling the people of NSW and beyond to experience Machu Picchu and all our country has to offer,” he said.

“I know the public will be captivated by our unique culture dating back more than 3000 years and will be fascinated by the stories of five empires which are still present in our country today.”

The previous AM blockbuster, Ramses and the Gold of the Pharaohs, set new attendance records for the museum during its six-month run from November 2023-May 2024, attracting over half a million ticket sales.

Ticket prices start at $37.50 for adults, and $20 for children, with VR tickets from $22. Visit Australian Museum.

When Chinese flavours meet Peruvian ingredients in Melbourne

Melbourne has one of the most cosmopolitan restaurant scenes on the planet, but it is about to get its first restaurant devoted to the Peruvian-Chinese fusion food known as chifa.

La Chinesca (now closed) offered some chifa dishes a decade ago but Casa Chino, to open on Thursday in hip Brunswick, will focus on the cuisine created by Chinese migrants when they encountered unfamiliar ingredients in the South American country more than 100 years ago.

Casa Chino will be a 90-seat bar and restaurant concept showcasing dishes that marry the aromatic spices of Cantonese cooking with the vibrant ingredients of Peruvian fare.

The venue is a sibling of Brisbane's Casa Chow and part of the Talisman Group, led by industry veterans Vincent Lombino and Jared Thibault, who have devised food and beverage concepts for QT Hotels and Ovolo Group.

Peruvian-Belgian culinary expert and head chef Kevin Galdo has put together the menu.



Dim sums and Peruvian-style skewers called brochetas will star, along with wok-fried rice and noodle dishes. So dishes like crab and prawn toast with creamy rocoto, tobiko and bonito, and blistered pepper skewers with salsa blanca and furikake.

Thibault has crafted a cocktail menu that celebrates the quintessential Peruvian spirit, pisco, with a selection of pisco sours alongside a curated collection of international wines.

“Embarking on this culinary adventure, we have meticulously curated each dish to serve as a sensory gateway to the vibrant flavours of chifa in Peru," says Lombino.

"We aim to create an immersive experience, allowing guests to feel a profound sense of connection and escapism with every sip and bite.

“Casa Chino beautifully captures the essence of our concept, emphasising the heartfelt nature of our endeavour. A significant portion of our menu is a tribute to the cherished family dishes that Jared's late wife [Fiorella Aguila] grew up with in Peru, adding a deeply personal touch to our offerings.

"As chifa cuisine gains momentum, we’re thrilled to be one of the first to bring our interpretation of chifa to Australia and into the rich fabric of the Melbourne and Brunswick dining scene, sharing not just a meal, but a piece of our hearts and the rich culinary heritage that inspired us."

To celebrate its grand launch, Casa Chino will be hosting a Block Party on Friday, April 12, from 5-7pm.

For details see www.casachino.com.au

Tourists left stranded at Inca ruins

Imagine being unable to leave one of the most dramatic spots on the planet.

That is the fate of hundreds of foreign tourists who have been stranded near the Inca ruins of Machu Picchu due to violent protests raging across Peru.

The train services linking to the world-famous attraction have been suspended because of the growing civil unrest and tourists unable or unwilling to trek across the Inca trail are in limbo.

Local officials say about 800 tourists are stranded, Travel Mole reports, and food shortages are anticipated.

The tourists are currently holed up in the town, formerly known as Aguas Calientes, at the foot of the mountain, which is about 70 miles from Cusco. It is a magical spot that I visited a few years ago, although some of the local treks are not designed for unfit wine writers. 

The train is the only way to get to Cusco other than on foot, or by air - and the airport is also closed.

Peruvian protests were triggered after the arrest of ex-president Pedro Castillo.

The town’s mayor Darwin Baca Leon has called for the government to send helicopters to help evacuate the stranded tourists.

Images: Winsor Dobbin 

China meets Peru - in Brisbane

The world gets smaller every year - and our palates are increasingly exposed to different flavours and cuisines.

Casa Chow - a new bar and restaurant serving Chinese-Peruvian cuisine - is a case in point, opening its doors in Brisbane on Wednesday.

Casa Chow is the latest offering from Vincent Lombino and Jared Thibault, who operate neighbourhood Italian trattoria Sasso Italiano.

“Casa Chow brings a sense of escapism, and we can’t wait to open our doors to bring Peru’s most inspirational cuisine, chifa, to Australia," says Lombino. "We’ve poured our hearts into this place and space, to bring an energetic new dining experience to town.”

Casa Chow will bring the Chino Latino chifa dishes to Woolloongabba’s South City Square precinct.

Born from the migration of Chinese immigrants to Peru in the 19th century, chifa fuses classic Cantonese flavours with Peruvian staples.

Executive chef Gabriele Di Landri’s opening menu includes lomo saltado, a stir fry of marinated wagyu, onions, aji amarillo chilli served over fries; and anticucho-marinated skewers, alongside a mix of dim sum and ceviche.

Maybe also expect a pisco sour, or two.   

Casa Chow is set in a 100-seat, open-style bar with a DJ booth set to feature Latin rhythms. Dinner service will be available from 5-10.30pm Wednesday-Sunday.

See http://www.casachow.com.au/